![]() 05/27/2020 at 15:32 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
We’ve been having issues with a bit of a sulfur smell from our hot water. I thought I’d try replacing the anode in the water heater with one that includes zinc.
That plan was thwarted when the dab blasted thing won’t budge!
I started with a breaker bar, added my jack handle, and after some creative use of language I disconnected the flue and grabbed my cordless impact. Nothing!
Sadly the utility room is too small and poorly configured to get a second person in there to help.
Any suggestions on next steps? Is there anything I can use to try to loosen/dissolve the old thread seal, pipe dope, or whatever in the hell they installed it with that won’t contaminate the softener?
I could probably get some hydrofluorosilic acid to drip on the threads from work to try to dissolve it. I’d just need to flush the living crap out of the softener afterwards. I’m hoping someone has a trick that doesn’t involve fun chemicals though.
![]() 05/27/2020 at 15:51 |
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Heat?
![]() 05/27/2020 at 15:54 |
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It’s buried deeply enough in insulation that I’m leery of breaking out the torch. I’m considering heating the socket itself while it’s on the nut as an option though.
![]() 05/27/2020 at 15:57 |
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Tankless water heater. Add room to your utility room. Don’t heat XXty gallons of water for eternity and no anodes and cathodes ... what is this? Car battery after all?
![]() 05/27/2020 at 15:58 |
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If you already have hard water sulfate is not an unusual chemical as well. The only way to deal with that is yet another treatment process. Sulfate is usually iron sulfate and even a small amount really affects taste and odor. I highly doubt a magnesium anode is changing the taste of the water.
![]() 05/27/2020 at 16:07 |
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Borrow/buy an induction heater.
![]() 05/27/2020 at 16:10 |
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If you’re buying I’m down!
Changing to a tankless water heater is part of our long term plans. Replacing siding is going to use up our non-diy upgrade budget for this year though. A tankless unit is probably 3-4 years away.
![]() 05/27/2020 at 16:19 |
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I bought one for my old house. It cost me little under 3K with professional installation and purchase of unit. Removal of old and piping in the new.
I don’t think it was super expensive compared to a tanked unit which by the way - if left without water and elements heated up and then water added - becomes Space X rocket and goes through the roof. But I am more than certain you are aware of it.
![]() 05/27/2020 at 16:19 |
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I’ve had extremely good luck freezing things. If you don’t have freeze spray handy (who does?) then an upside-down can of air duster works fine except the bittering agent will get in your mouth and it is horrible. Works the same way as heating it with a torch, but in reverse and is generally less harmful to the surrounding area. I’d spray it until it it COOOOOOOOOOLD and hope for the best.
![]() 05/27/2020 at 16:25 |
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Consequently this reminded me I needed to buy more freeze spray and hooboy that was one weird trip to Amazon. Apparently a whole bunch of things are called that. (Mostly pain relief, wart removal, hair product, penetrating fluid, and actual freeze spray) Going to hit my local electronics supplier instead....
![]() 05/27/2020 at 16:26 |
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Interesting, I actually have access to a CO2 fueled freeze tool through work. I’ll have to look into whether they’ll let me borrow it.
![]() 05/27/2020 at 16:35 |
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Don’t the elements just blow the circuit when not in contact with water?
![]() 05/27/2020 at 18:43 |
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try an impact wrench,that did the trick for me
![]() 05/27/2020 at 18:45 |
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My cordless impact did nothing
![]() 05/27/2020 at 18:48 |
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They work well? i
.e. You don’t have to wait a few minutes for hot water?
![]() 05/27/2020 at 21:18 |
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https://www.amazon.com/CRC-General-Purpose-Penetrating-Aerosol/dp/B007I9XSYQ
or food grade mineral oil soaked on a papertowel ?
![]() 05/27/2020 at 22:38 |
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There is a tool used in industrial settings and I think by plumbers called a torque multiplier. Very nifty tool but expensive. Some places r ent them out though.
![]() 05/28/2020 at 07:02 |
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Maybe newer ones. I’ve heard from plumbers how older ones have gone through roofs.
![]() 05/28/2020 at 07:03 |
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There is cold water in pipe between the unit (tank or tankless) and faucet. Once that water runs through, you get hot water. It’s just about that much time. in a tankless unit, you may have to wait extra second or two but that’s all. Not few minutes
![]() 05/28/2020 at 10:55 |
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So we do this set up at work...
And all the assholes who plug in the water heater before filling it up make the element go bad and anytime it’s plugged in it’ll trip breakers.
I didn’t know older ones were so dangerous. We have to change the elements frequently on these small ones.
![]() 05/28/2020 at 11:18 |
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Most new ones have a pressure relief valve. If elements are hot and water gets to them, it creates pressure and relief valve should release pressure so it doesnt blow up, but if the relief valve malfunctions.... SpaceX
![]() 05/28/2020 at 11:23 |
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I don’t think I’ve ever seen one with out a relief valve. Boiling water and steam used to power locomotives, so it would defiantly be a ticking time bomb.
![]() 05/28/2020 at 17:54 |
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Sorry to hear that. My experience is that if it is stuck, an impact is your only solution. I guess penetration oil or freezing or a better impact are your options. Good luck