![]() 03/14/2019 at 20:39 • Filed to: emma | ![]() | ![]() |
Bought the entire 4-speed setup from this car and I’m going to install it in my car. Got the trans, all the linkages, brackets, drive shaft, cross member, pedals, all nuts/bolts/springs, clutch, flywheel, the works. Now I just need to find somewhere to install it since I don’t have a garage here in Detroit.
If anyone has ever worked on these old T-10s or has any suggestions of preventative maintenance I should do while the trans is out of the car, let me know! Also if you have any swap tips I could use those too.
![]() 03/14/2019 at 20:55 |
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No tips, but awesome!
![]() 03/14/2019 at 20:56 |
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Cool!
I swapped a muncie into my ‘71 chevelle (removed the original powerglide) so I’m fairly familiar with the high-level - not sure of the details on these later cars. I may have answers if you have questions!
![]() 03/14/2019 at 21:06 |
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You could do it in David Tracy’s driveway, but he’s a bit busy with the mail Jeep project.
![]() 03/14/2019 at 21:18 |
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I have nothing to offer, except for a hell yeah!!
![]() 03/14/2019 at 21:19 |
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T10, do a complete teardown before putting it in. Don’t chance it. Tear it down, figure out exactly what internals and alloys (the case is always the same,) and replace all the wear parts (bearings, bushings, synchros, forks .) If you’ve got junk alloys, it’s cheaper to replace up front than to wait till they break. It’s a pretty simple transmission.
Forks are especially important, as are the gaskets and bushing seals. Complete overhaul kit will run you about $100 with everything but the forks. Also take the opportunity to replace the plastic speedo gear and make sure you have the correct one. The plastic can get brittle over time.
![]() 03/14/2019 at 21:19 |
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I kinda like the patina on that, although I’m sure it looks terrible underneath. For whatever reason I really like 70s muscle cars with faded rusty white paint.
![]() 03/14/2019 at 21:20 |
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Michigan car, didnt have any floors left in it at all. There was no way to save it sadly
![]() 03/14/2019 at 21:21 |
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Great tips, I’ll look into it. Any suggestions on clutches?
![]() 03/14/2019 at 21:28 |
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He’s about a mile from me, so if only!
![]() 03/14/2019 at 21:29 |
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Clutch, honestly, it’s a non-hydraulic so go with whatever works for you. You’ve got options all over the place. Drop flywheel weight first if you can. However, i f you do NOT have experience driving a FULLY NON-HYDRAULIC clutch which does NOT tolerate slip but will allow it , I STRONGLY recommend a Centerforce Dual Friction.
The T10 does NOT tolerate slipping the clutch graciously. It will chew up and spit out synchros goddamn fast . That’s why any used unit, rebuild and new synchros first.
![]() 03/14/2019 at 21:30 |
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I have experience with second gen F- bodies, at least early ones, but not doing this so all I can offer is to be sure the driveline has the right yoke and is the right length but I’m sure you’ve thought of that.
![]() 03/14/2019 at 22:09 |
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Yoke should be fine, with any luck the drive shaft that came with the trans should fit well since it’s coming out of a car with the same frame, motor, and rear end as mine. Want to avoid having to cut something down again.
![]() 03/14/2019 at 22:17 |
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I know nothing about these cars but why the 4 speed? Based on TARW’s suggestion to tear it down and rebuild, if you are not staying original wouldnt it be more fun to throw in a used but more robust 5 speed from the 80s?
![]() 03/14/2019 at 22:22 |
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Ease of the s wap and cost. Everything should be bolt in for the 4-speed since it’s factory equipment. Additionally the typical T5 can’t handle the torque of a Pontiac 400. I was looking at a T56, but can’t swing the price.
![]() 03/15/2019 at 00:26 |
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Was the car you pulled the parts from a factory 4 speed? I didn’t think they used T-10s in the late 2nd gens. Your going to have to be do some measuring to make sure the shifter “brain” ( what the handle bolts to and what the arms connect to
) and your handle come up through the center of the floor. I know on first gen F-bodys Hurst shifters are unique for the Muncie to create the off set, same with 68-72 Chevelle.
If you have a console that will no longer work, they are different between a auto and a manual. The 4 speed console’s hole is farther forward than the cutout for the auto.
My experience with T-10s is mixed. We have one in out 55 Chevy using factory 58-62 Chevy Impala “spaghetti” linkage. The trans works really good but that shifter is super sloppy, you are not powershifting the thing and the gates are really close to gether, very easy to slip into 3rd at a light, but the handle sure does look good in the car, lol
![]() 03/15/2019 at 07:47 |
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You’re right! I t’s a factory 4-speed but a S uper T-10 not just a T-10, I was just being lazy when typing. Thankfully I’ve got the metal center console hump out of the donor car that I can weld into my floor to allow clearance for the shifter . T he H urst shifter in the car was actually OEM, it was an option you could pick when you bought it. It probably needs taken apart and cleaned as it’s pretty stiff right now. I also have a full center console setup, trim and all, for this swap that I was gifted several years ago because somebody didn’t want it in their garage anymore.
I’m sure I’ll be asking you some questions moving forward sin ce these mechanical shift and clutch transmissions are all new to me.
![]() 03/15/2019 at 08:50 |
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Yes, I see that T56 looks very robust but the price jumps quite a bit. I have thought by now all this stuff would be much cheaper. It just kind of hit a wall a couple of years ago and stays the same.
![]() 03/15/2019 at 12:16 |
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Break for that Bandit one! Break for that Bandit one!
Username checks out.
![]() 03/17/2019 at 10:47 |
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The super T-10 is a much better trans over the T-10, they do have the larger output shaft like a th400 and much better innards. Sounds like you got everything you need then to properly do the swap. The clutch stuff is pretty straightforward. It usually always the shifter stuff that can cause problems. If you clean up the shifter and its still stiff shifting then you will probably have to send it out to be rebuilt, you cant get rebuild kits, I have tried a few times on different hurst shifters.
![]() 03/17/2019 at 11:15 |
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I tried my hand at tearing the shifter down, degreasing everything, and building it back up fresh yesterday and it seems to have helped. Will see how it works once the trans gets back from the rebuild shop.
It’s the OEM H urst shifter and there’s like a $15 0 up- charge for a rebuild compared to a standard aftermarket one. May just buy a n ew one if my quick refurb doesn’ t work out.