It would seem my truck has hit its "expensive maintenance" stage of life

"WiscoProud" (wiscoproud) 02/13/2019 at 12:30 • Filed to: None

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So i had to take my 2004 Land Cruiser into the shop today for a grinding caliper. It starting following an ice storm last week, which i initially assumed was caused by ice build up, but apparently the caliper was frozen. Considering it had been a few years and 80-90k since i’ve done the brakes, i was guessing that they would be needed as well. I was correct.

Total for all this, even with the shop waiving the labor for the calipers? $1,400+

This is largely due to Mr. Toyota deciding that you should need to rebuild the hubs in order to change the rotors on a 100 series. So the shop gets to charge roughly 4-5 00 for front and rear.

This is the big debate now. Do i keep it or move on?

Pros:

- Its incredible reliable

- Its big enough for my family, yet small enough to fit in my garage

- It laughs at snow storms and the forest trails i take it on

- Its paid off

Cons:

- Its 14 years old and has the tech to prove it.

- I’m presently getting about 13mpg, although summer is higher at maybe 18 highway

- At 201k i’ll likely need to replace bushings, ball joints, and other fun stuff soon

- I live in the land of salt and snow, and despite my best efforts, I will lose this battle. The body looks great, but the undercarriage all has a coating of rust, and i’ve had to drill out numerous bolts as a result.

One option is to trade it in and get something more modern. The other option is to keep it, but get something to take over commuting duties.

What do you guys think? Anyone interested in a Midwest 100 series?

BrianGriffin thinks “reliable” is just a state of mind > WiscoProud 02/13/2019 at 13:02

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If you were closer to me I’d be all over it.

It sounds like you’re no longer in love with the car. That means it’s time to move on, regardless of what work it may or may not need. Your heart will never trust it. 

WiscoProud > BrianGriffin thinks “reliable” is just a state of mind 02/13/2019 at 13:08

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I am though, that’s the problem. Aside from wishing it had slightly more rear leg room, its perfect for me. The logical step would be to buy a 200 series, but they’re going for such stupid prices still.

I went through this same experience with my LR3. I had it for roughly the same amount of time, loved it to death, but after several four figure repair bills, including the final one of $1,700, I parted ways. I still miss that truck. 

Arrivederci > WiscoProud 02/13/2019 at 13:14

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What modern amenities are you really missing? You called out bushings, ball joints and other potential repairs upcoming, but after the brakes, what’s to say it’s not going to be trouble free for another year?  $1400 investment for a year really isn’t bad.

sperglord1 > WiscoProud 02/13/2019 at 13:34

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Buy a socket set, jack stands, and a jack and start learning

WiscoProud > sperglord1 02/13/2019 at 13:47

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I have all the tool and space, time is the constraint. Not to mention i need my truck for work and can’t take a day off to work on it. I also can’t drive it as is, and its freezing out in Wisconsin. 

atfsgeoff > WiscoProud 02/13/2019 at 13:51

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Don’t give up a stellar truck just because it needed rotors and a caliper.

Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo > WiscoProud 02/13/2019 at 13:56

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I’d keep it, but I’m only me, myself, as opposed to you, who is not me.

Consider the following tired platitudes, which I think apply:

- devil you know > devil you don’t

- poor fuel economy on a paid-for vehicle > better fuel economy on a more expensive vehicle. I mean, what if the replacement costs $5-10k more than you can get for the LC? It would take a long time to break even on fuel savings.

- ball joints? pushings? Kick in the pants but it’s the last time you’ll even do them.

But now for some reasons to replace it:

- 200k miles, you’d have to keep it for another 50-100k to justify paying for these upcoming wear items

- new toys are fun

WiscoProud > atfsgeoff 02/13/2019 at 13:56

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I’m not giving it up because it needs a brake job, I’m debating giving it up because this is likely the tip of the iceberg.

For example, I’ll need a water pump and timing belt soon ($7-900), tires in the next 20k ($800), the suspension bushings and ball joints are all original ($1,000), etc.

At the moment, I’m leaning towards keeping it and getting a car for commuting/fun

atfsgeoff > WiscoProud 02/13/2019 at 14:02

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I’d be more than happy to buy it and keep it on the roads (I do the wrenching myself) , but even at 15 years old and 200k, it’s worth more than I can afford :(

Snowrydr01 > WiscoProud 02/13/2019 at 14:07

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its counter intuative but for front brakes id bring it to toyota (a current 100 series owner) since the hub bearing procedure is VERY specific to set the preload. I wouldn’t trust a non Toyota shop to take the time to do it right unless they have an old vet on staff use to them instead of disposable sealed bearings. Even bringing to toyota doesn guerentee that. When i bought mine used it was the first thing i did and wouldnt you know by hub nuts had chisel marks all over them because whoever did the brakes last didnt even have the correct socket, im pretty sure they didnt bust out a fish scale to measure the rotational drag.

WiscoProud > Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo 02/13/2019 at 14:16

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Historically, I start looking at new vehicles about 18 months after buying something, but don’t actually switch until the 4 year mark or so. I’m at 4.5 years with this truck.

I’m mainly looking at the repairs in terms of payments. Assuming a $500 payment, my current brake job was three months for example. Given the list of other things i can likely expect in the next 50k, it could get as high as a year’s worth of payments.

The other option is to get something to commute in, which would allow me to greatly reduce the mileage on my truck (20k/year), which should hold much of this off. But that’s still an extra payment. 

WiscoProud > atfsgeoff 02/13/2019 at 14:17

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Figuring out a price to ask is tricky. Looking at 2003-2005 online with similar miles, i’ve seen as low as $7,500 and as high as $17k. I think i would probably ask $10-12k for it. 

WiscoProud > Snowrydr01 02/13/2019 at 14:19

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This shop did my brakes 4 years ago and I haven’t had any issues. I didn’t micromanage their technique, but the results speak for themselves. 

MUSASHI66 > WiscoProud 02/13/2019 at 14:20

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That’s like $2700 in maintenance to keep the LC going. Can you buy a reliable car for $2700, and come on top with the gas savings but an extra car to insure?

LC should do 250k with maintenance, easy . Do the bushings and belts. Get an angle grinder, attack the rust and spray the frame and anything rusty with Fluid Film or similar.

WiscoProud > MUSASHI66 02/13/2019 at 14:37

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For $2,700, no. But for a $10-12k sale price, plus $2,700, I can get something reliable with better mileage. Its not like I’m going to junk it. I’ll sell it to another buyer and use those funds for a something newer. 

MUSASHI66 > WiscoProud 02/13/2019 at 14:44

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“ The other option is to keep it, but get something to take over commuting duties.”

Sure sounded like keeping it and buying a new car. But, option A of selling and buying another might not be bad for you. 

Dru > WiscoProud 02/13/2019 at 14:57

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I would keep it an put the money into it. I say this as I kind of wish I had found a way to keep my lowly WJ Grand Cherokee after I bought my ZHP. It was also paid for but needed the AC system rebuilt, cooling system overhaul, and probably a few other things. Easily 2 grand worth of work if a local shop did it. But it was perfect for our annual mountain trip, Lowes runs, hauling trash, and really anything. It was abysmal on fuel mileage but the V8 burble was pretty much worth it.  It was also relatively quick for an SUV.

WiscoProud > Dru 02/13/2019 at 16:55

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Its the perfect blizzard and hunting truck. I don’t really care if it get scratched either, so that helps too.