![]() 07/26/2018 at 17:12 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
On W123, W116, and W126 Mercedes.
Here’s what I know:
1.) The climate control on later W116s and some W123s is a weak spot.
2.) Vacuum leaks are something to watch for.
3.) The timing chains need to be watched on the W126s.
4.) All can be prone to rust.
Here are my main questions:
1.) What other major weak points do these have?
2.) How do these stack up to a W124 or W201?
3.) What routine maintenance (outside of the obvious stuff) should be performed for each model?
4.) Between a W123 or Volvo 240, which would be a preferable DD?
![]() 07/26/2018 at 17:24 |
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1. the sheet metal on these has been shown to deform under pressure as small as, say, a 40 mph collision.
2. about the same, I bet you could easily stack as many W123 as W124 or W201. I would guess 3 would be the limit.
3. with any model I suggest you routinely compliment and shower it with lavish gifts.
4. I don’t know if any of these would be a candidate for Dungeons and Dragons.
Hope I was helpful!
![]() 07/26/2018 at 17:26 |
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In regards to two, I would have thought the W123's boxy design would have allowed for a slight advantage over the other models.
![]() 07/26/2018 at 17:27 |
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its possible, but I think after 3 you’re just asking to get Jenga’d with any of them.
![]() 07/26/2018 at 17:40 |
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the 240d w123 is vastly simpler than the 300td everytime I have to look something up. TLDR: glad I got a 240 over the 300 from the little bit of work I have done on mine
![]() 07/26/2018 at 18:07 |
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A s these have numerous engine variants, are you thinking diesel for each?
![]() 07/26/2018 at 18:09 |
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these cars are stronger than you and your whole family combined
![]() 07/26/2018 at 18:17 |
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Well I’ve had a 1983 300D sedan for many years, you can ask me anything you want. I totally refurbished my AC and it is great. I do have a slow vacuum leak and if I leave the car alone for a week only the driver door unlocks with one key twist, it’s usually a Y connector somewhere that is cracked. I have a CA car and it’s got a rust coating all over the bottom and in the trun k that the previous owner did, I think the only rust on my car is a small spot in the battery tray. I think the 1983 is the best year, or 82. It doesn’t have a computer, it has a turbo and alloy wheels. the 84 and 85 have a computer. I deleted my EGR. It’s a diesel so there are some differences in maintenance . I would say if the tranny has never been changed they are coming up on needing it, I have a bit of a slip in mine and at some point I will have to get a new one. The diesel gets good MPGs, diesel is not cheap right now unfortunately . I’m not sure you can compare driving a Volvo to the Merc, but they are similar in that they never seem to die. I have an inline 5 turbo and it’s well tuned, it is ok in modern traffic, a 240D is a bit slower, but they don’t drive like a petrol car, they are for cruising and do well on the highway, they love to get going and stay cruising . I have my Merc so it can be what it is, I don’t drive it to work, I cruise on the coast highway to the beach etc... I have the original sheepskin seat covers, it’s not an experience you get with newer cars. I used to ride to school in a Volvo 240, they are more bare bones, the Merc just feels good, you have well built parts and zebrano wood. All I can say is drive one, they don’t make them like this anymore. I love it, it’s basically a 1976 car that was updated a bit.
![]() 07/26/2018 at 18:40 |
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With the W123, it would almost certainly be diesel; I’d prefer the five cylinder, but I’d consider a four-cylinder. I was thinking diesel or six for the W116, as the V8s are out of my price range. Pretty much every option was on the table for the W126; I was looking at a 300SEL, 560SEL, and 300SD.
![]() 07/26/2018 at 18:49 |
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Good choices on all of those - for 123 I’d choose a 5cyl, W116 a 300SD, W126 a diesel or I6 (same engine as W124 300E). NA only got the 123 in gasoline form as a 280E - I would rather have a 300D, especially turbo. 240D is quite slow, not sure if that matters. 240D manuals are not too rare, but a manual 300D is rare. You won’t find a manual here in the other cars unless a grey market import.
I’ve experienced all of these, and had a 300SE for a few years. The big difference is the age of the cars. A 126 will feel a lot more modern than a 116, and as age suggests, a 123 is in the middle. 126s are a lot more complex, with more to go wrong, but they drive really nice when sorted. I think the V8 cars have more maintenance needs, but you get a V8 in exchange for that. 124s and 201s will feel that much more modern again - all US spec 124s have a driver’s airbag.
One funny quirk in MBs of the 70s and early 80s is the door panel plastic, and seat stuffing. The seat stuffing flattens out, which makes the seats look deflated. This isn’t hard to fix, but is work. If exposed to temperature extremes, the door skin material can wrinkle and look odd, no cure but to replace. Not seen much on 126s, but a bit on 123s/116s. Blue colored plastic seems more prone to cracking, too. For technical issues, I’d be most concerned with transmission maintenance, and front suspensions.
![]() 07/26/2018 at 18:50 |
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Gorgeous.
![]() 07/26/2018 at 19:04 |
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My power steering belt went all wonky today and a metal strand came loose. I had to cut it off, not hard to fix though.
![]() 07/27/2018 at 01:25 |
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Approximately h ow reliable are the W124 and W201 in comparison to the earlier models?
![]() 07/27/2018 at 01:28 |
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Wow, that thing is pretty. That’s almost exactly how I would buy mine if I were at a dealership in the ‘80s.
Have you had to invest in any major repairs in the time you’ve owned it?
![]() 07/27/2018 at 01:45 |
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I like a dark blue Mercedes, it’s palomino inside with original sheepskin seat covers. I have done general maintenance, engine mounts, brakes, wheel bearings, shocks, tune ups/glow plugs, like to get soft on the shaking diesel. It’s good to do diesel purges to clean the junk out. I know I spent $1200 or so on the AC , all new parts , I have a bulldog so he needs it! The US version has the air cleaner mounted off the side of the engine and it has three mounts you have to change every year or two from the shake breaking them , there are updated ones, I recommend Mercedessource.com for tips and stuff you do yourself. I will have to do the transmission at some point but she keeps going, slips a bit but keeps going. My mechanic at the Swiss Garage says just wait til it gets worse, so far it’s fine. A new rebuilt tranny is $2200, but it will probably last another 30 plus years. My interior is all original and nice so I tinted a bit to save it and the AC works well with that helping. Warm summer nights are nice with the sunroof on these. The paint isn’t perfect anymore, I try to get it detailed once a year and have a pro wax it properly, I got a cover so I keep it covered now when I’m not using it. When I’m done with my other car projects I will eventually come back to this one and fix up what she needs.
![]() 07/27/2018 at 10:28 |
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Most of those will be gasoline models, so they might not be as generally robust. Head gaskets seem to be a potential issue on many cars of the era, that and transmissions would concern me most. Reliability at this stage really depends on care and maintenance. If paying real money for a car, I’d want documentation and probably get a PPI.