![]() 04/20/2018 at 20:48 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
I got out of work a little early today and decided to take a stroll through the Copart yard across the street. This Magnum immediately snagged my attention and brought back fond memories of the black ‘05 RT I used to own. So, I walked over, even though I didn’t see a Hemi badge on the fender... I peeked in the window- clean leather interior? VIS? NAG1 trans? Lemme look at the back... R/T badge?! Corsa exhaust?! YIIISSSS!!!
Copart only lists “mechanical damage”. A quick VIN search shows it was recently sold at auction in Cali, and the auction also lists mechanical damage, but says it starts. The only major mechanical issue these early Hemi LX cars are known for is the occasional tendency for the engine to drop a valve seat around 75,000-125,000 miles. This one’s right at 88,000. Obviously that would not be a desirable outcome, but these things aren’t terribly difficult to work on or find a replacement engine for.
I’m thinking of throwing down a $1200-ish bid. Are there lots of hidden fees? Do things tend to go for more than expected? Should I run away?
https://www.copart.com/lot/31592108/
![]() 04/20/2018 at 20:58 |
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Depending on your state, you might need to have a dealer’s license or have a broker to bid on vehicles.
![]() 04/20/2018 at 21:00 |
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Oregon... Does that mean anything to you?
![]() 04/20/2018 at 21:01 |
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Link to the listing:
https://www.copart.com/lot/31592108/
![]() 04/20/2018 at 21:06 |
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Here you go!
https://www.copart.com/Content/US/EN/Licensing/United-States/oregon?intcmp=index_map_oregon
![]() 04/20/2018 at 21:08 |
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Itd be nice if Dodge would do a refresh. Even if just a Hellcat Magnum it would sell like hot cakes. While I love everything the Magnum is about, they just haven’t aged well.
![]() 04/20/2018 at 21:36 |
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The Magnum would look awesome if they were to steal the design cues from the Charger.
![]() 04/20/2018 at 22:08 |
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![]() 04/20/2018 at 22:42 |
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Look up their fee structure. I bought a hail damaged 04 Volvo XC90 sight unseen with a winning bid of $600 without a dealer’s licence. Ended up paying around $930 out the door. It was a solid experience and the car successfully made the 150 mile drive back to my apartment, and ended up netting me a pretty solid profit.
![]() 04/20/2018 at 22:56 |
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Sweet! Thanks!
![]() 04/20/2018 at 23:12 |
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If this was the fall, you could’ve been a hero and resurrected my friend’s old Endeavor.
![]() 04/20/2018 at 23:13 |
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Literally just make the Charger a wagon and drop the biggest V8 FCA has on hand.
![]() 04/20/2018 at 23:24 |
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Not really my cup of tea, but I’m starting to think I should be taking advantage of the Copart yard and its proximity to my place of work to get back into car flipping. Post-college-graduation, of course.
![]() 04/21/2018 at 00:43 |
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If you want to drive it, and have 2-3 grand to dump into it, why not?
![]() 04/21/2018 at 05:05 |
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The worst thing about Copart is that most auctions are “on approval.” That means that the end of the auction is just the beginning of negotiations, and every seller wants a few thousand dollars more than the auction price, because he knows you’re set on his car and don’t want to go through the hassle of another auction.
If an auction is not “on approval,” Copart is pretty good. Oh yeah there’s some kind of “buyer’s premium” to pay, maybe 10% or something?
I’ve bought a few fixer-uppers from Copart with good results, as long as you are aware of the risk of sometimes having to walk away from a trash heap. Don’t spend your last thousand dollars on a Copart car. Be aware that there’s a bit of a gamble.
(Yeah, just clicked your link and saw the auction is “on approval” — I guarantee the seller will ask for at least double of where the auction ended. Also, I don’t know whether Oregon Copart allows people without dealer licenses to bid? Check that out. You may need someone to buy it for you. When I did my Copart buys, the mechanic I used to do the fixing-upping had a dealer license, so he also did the buys for me.)
![]() 04/21/2018 at 05:08 |
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You and a ton of other people. Lots of competition.
![]() 04/21/2018 at 06:42 |
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do it!
![]() 04/22/2018 at 08:22 |
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Their website says to not try to start a vehicle without a Copart employee, which I would infer to mean that you can try to start it if there is one there. If its dropped a valve seat, its probably already damaged enough that trying to start it won’t be the difference between having to swap the engine or not.
My dad had an ‘05 300C that dropped a valve seat at 193k miles. It would still start, though it sounded like death, and when we opened it up (just for shits and giggled, we knew what the problem was) there was a hole in the piston and the cylinder wall was all messed up. Still ran until we took it apart though.