MOAR RUST

"K-Roll-PorscheTamer" (k-roll390) 03/12/2018 at 16:25 • Filed to: Rust, Mustang things

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Lemme tell ya, I LOVE finding cancer bubbling on newer cars. Not really, but here’s what I found when I popped open the trunk on my Mustang this weekend.

It’s located where water channels out around the trunk (look at the arrow). This is steel and not aluminum and because it’s perforating from under the paint, there’s no doubt in my mind that it’s a factory defect.

Just like my hood, I would take it to the dealer for warranty and it would be covered. But I spent five hours this past week removing swirls and scratches.... Though the body shop will produce a spotless panel as if no rust was ever there, the car would be a swirly nightmare again. So I’m just gonna DIY this because it’s small enough.

Mercedes Streeter > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/12/2018 at 16:39

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A light dusting of a cold galvanizing compound should stop it from coming back. :)

That’s sad that such a new car would be rusting so quickly. :/

Wacko > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/12/2018 at 16:45

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Ford

Quality is Job nOne

K-Roll-PorscheTamer > Mercedes Streeter 03/12/2018 at 16:48

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Cold galvanizing compound?? What is?

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > Wacko 03/12/2018 at 16:48

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Quality is job potato.

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/12/2018 at 16:51

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Fun story: a substantial number of first gen Mustangs (at least the first couple years?) do not have any paint on the bottom side/inside of the seat boxes. Like... at all. Stick seat box on floor, weld in place, trust to seat rail access plugs to keep water from entering from outside, and assume wildly that floor paint, jute, etc. will keep interior moisture from creeping in.

Ha. Aha. Hahahahahahaa

benjrblant > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/12/2018 at 16:52

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I’d be concerned about Ford claiming that your DIY repair caused or contributed to the rust, therefore voiding your warranty and future claims about it.

Swirly mess sucks, perforated body panels that won’t be warranted sucks harder. I could be overthinking this, but just a thought. Take it as you will.

K-Roll-PorscheTamer > Wacko 03/12/2018 at 16:52

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Actually it’s soon to be Job Juan.

Mercedes Streeter > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/12/2018 at 16:53

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It’s a paint that has zinc in it. Comes in both spray and bucket form. I used it as a base layer to protect Chelsea’s paint after I repaired her rust spot.

Of course, don’t do 10 layers of it like I did. lol

facw > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/12/2018 at 16:56

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I’d definitely get it done under warranty, simply on the basis that if the rust comes back after your repair, they might blame your repair and deny the claim in the future. But then, I’m an automatic car wash user who isn’t too worried about swirls, or even orange peel, so feel free to disregard my opinion.

crowmolly > Mercedes Streeter 03/12/2018 at 16:56

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Not trying to be a jerk, but cold galvanizing compound (like R-O’s) has poor adhesion and is easily damaged. Not a great base, IMO. :(

K-Roll-PorscheTamer > benjrblant 03/12/2018 at 16:57

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You’re not wrong. Your scenario only applies if I take it in after I attempt fixing it though. You’re not overthinking this. But this is a simple enough repair and the rust is minor enough that it shouldn’t come back when I’m done with it.

Takuro Spirit > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/12/2018 at 16:59

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Fix

Our

Rust

Dude

Mercedes Streeter > crowmolly 03/12/2018 at 16:59

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That would explain why mine is cracking in some places. Well, I guess it’s good that Chelsea isn’t a winter car. And I guess it can’t be any worse than the pathetic wax layer the car came from the factory with. *Laugh cries*

crowmolly > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/12/2018 at 17:06

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Depends on how you repair it, really.

K-Roll-PorscheTamer > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 03/12/2018 at 17:09

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It’s just factory patina.

K-Roll-PorscheTamer > crowmolly 03/12/2018 at 17:12

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For sure. Gonna take the spots down to clean metal and repaint.

Long-Voyager > Mercedes Streeter 03/12/2018 at 17:12

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It doesn’t surprise me much, I see a lot of newer cars rusting very quickly.

crowmolly > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/12/2018 at 17:13

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But my question is with what?

It’s a PITA to have Ford do it, but they will probably do a relatively comprehensive job with pro materials so it doesn’t come back.

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/12/2018 at 17:15

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When I got my Falcon (Ranchero), most of the floor was missing, presumed dead. This despite the fact that Falcons got a special zinc spray on the outside of the floor panels. This didn’t work, because (a): most of the moisture and rust and rot happen from the inside, and (b): a spit-coating of zinc does exactly fuck all to prevent salt from snacking on metal which isn’t much thicker than foil from the outside. Sooooo...

And yeah, the Mustangs were a c&p of all that, only built in more of a hurry, even. Funny happenstance: if you’re a glutton for punishment, Mustang floorboards can be made to fit a Falcon, and are <1/3 the cost. Would have been much easier if I hadn’t been making my own subframe connectors that interfered, but anyway.

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > crowmolly 03/12/2018 at 17:20

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ZRC’s seems to stick a lot better, but I haven’t had any around in ages. Requires intensive prep to use as a base, though. Used it to “fix” some damage on galvanized Landy trim, and it did okay.

R-O’s version as a primer, as soft as it is - hell no. Only useful for outdoor steel and weld touch-up, IMHO.

Stapleface > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 03/12/2018 at 17:26

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Interesting Ford anecdote. In the early 80's, my uncle bought an f150. He lives in the middle of the rust belt. They offered lifetime rust protection. You can guess how that went. He kept that truck for close to 20 years. Ford probably replaced every single body panel at least twice.

Highlander-Datsuns are Forever > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/12/2018 at 17:28

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I drive a Mazda 3, it could be worse!

K-Roll-PorscheTamer > crowmolly 03/12/2018 at 17:30

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sandpaper, steel brush, dremel, zinc primer, and touchup paint. But as with any repair, especially metal, preparation is the most important or it’s all for nothing.

K-Roll-PorscheTamer > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 03/12/2018 at 17:39

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The spit-coating was for weight savings, and the rot was to escalate the weight savings over time. If you want serious undercoating, whatever factory concoction Porsche/VW used on the bottom of 911s and the lot is nigh impregnable.

It is not of this natural world and the only way to effectively remove it is with sandblasting. If you’re a super masochist then have fun with dry ice, and a hammer and chisel.

crowmolly > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/12/2018 at 17:55

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Sure. Bare steel begins to flash rust in 30 minutes at 50% humidity.

Is it BC/CC touch up? Not just the duplicolor stuff?

Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/12/2018 at 18:00

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That seems totally unacceptable.

K-Roll-PorscheTamer > crowmolly 03/12/2018 at 18:00

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Given that it’s still below 40F, I don’t have to worry about 50% humidity. And of course I’ll be doing a P/BC/CC. I never take any chances when rust is involved. I’ve got an OEM touch up pen that’s filled with the base and clear in a liquid form.

benjrblant > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/12/2018 at 18:17

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This is false. Humidity is measured as a %RH, RH meaning relative humidity. Air can be 100% saturated with the maximum amount of moisture it can suspend at any temperature. 100% RH can occur at 100f, 50f, and 0f. Condensation is possible at any temperature. The total mass of moisture the air can suspend is what varies with temperature but relative humidity is just as its name suggests- relative.

ranwhenparked > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/12/2018 at 18:35

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Looks like typical Mustang stuff. Is your mileage low enough to be within the comprehensive warranty? If so, might be worth having the dealer check it out, since I’d worry about a DIY repair maybe voiding the warranty.

If its out of bumper-to-bumper, have at it - no perforation (yet) = not covered under the corrosion warranty.

K-Roll-PorscheTamer > Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo 03/12/2018 at 18:35

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It’s not even been two full years yet! But that’s life haha.

K-Roll-PorscheTamer > ranwhenparked 03/12/2018 at 18:46

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24,200 Miles. I’m well within the 3yr/36k warranty still. I’ll probably take it tomorrow and see if they can do it without swirling it up. I don’t even think they’d need a full day to fix it.

ranwhenparked > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/12/2018 at 18:50

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Fortunately, its hidden when the trunk lid is closed, and the paint finish in those areas seems to usually be flatter anyway, so it might not be that problematic to repair. Though it seems like Ford dealers tend to be apathetic about this sort of work.

crowmolly > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/12/2018 at 19:00

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Not sure why I didn’t get a notification for this!

Looks good then... but next question:

If you are doing it @ 40F, that’s well below proper cure temp. I’ve used paints that stop curing at all when they are that cold. Just an FYI, might want to have an alternate warming method.

Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/12/2018 at 19:26

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You’re taking this better than I would. I’ve got a 16 year old Japanese car with less rust.

K-Roll-PorscheTamer > crowmolly 03/12/2018 at 20:05

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Heat gun.