![]() 08/02/2016 at 08:55 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
I’ve been trying to get the Miata done in time to drive three states away to my girlfriend’s Miata-obsessed grandpa’s estate but this latest setback pretty much shoots that down. Here’s a list of what I have to do:
Drill oil pan for drain line
Actually manufacture drain line
ATF flush the engine
Buy intercoolers/piping
Figure out intercooler mounting
Buy missing couplers to complete intercooler
Buy blow off valve
Buy 7psi wastegate actuator
Replace all hydraulic lifters
The lifters is what just happened. Nasty noise coming from my engine, turns out some of my lifters have collapsed completely.
![]() 08/02/2016 at 09:08 |
|
I feel your pain. My NBs rad started leaking the day before I was to drive it on a 4000km road trip.
At least the 3 could hold more stuff. I’m on my 3rd day in :)
![]() 08/02/2016 at 09:09 |
|
Got any fun suspension plans?
![]() 08/02/2016 at 09:09 |
|
Yeah... I’m not looking forward to sitting in some shitty rental van with my girlfriend’s annoying family for 12 or however many hours when I could be sitting in the luxurious custom interior of my Japanese sports car. Fuck.
![]() 08/02/2016 at 09:11 |
|
Currently running 440# springs in front and 400# springs in back. They lowered the car an inch in the rear and a half inch in front. Disconnected the rear sway bar to remove the excessive lift-off oversteer it had with that spring setup and now it’s incredibly neutral. Will be looking into upgraded front sway bars with poly bushings and grease fittings, and then hook the rear back up once I get the front upgraded in order to maintain balance and deal with weight transfer through slaloms.
![]() 08/02/2016 at 09:13 |
|
Ugh. If you cut it down to ‘things I need to get it driving’ and ‘things I’d like to do’ does that make it doable?
![]() 08/02/2016 at 09:15 |
|
Well, without the lifters the car doesn’t really run that well, without the intercooler it pings above 4000 rpm, without the oil drain line it burns shittons of oil. I could do without the blowoff valve and wastegate actuator for the time being as long as I don’t approach 10psi, but that’s about it.
![]() 08/02/2016 at 09:26 |
|
Hmmm, anything you could do to pull timing so it won’t knock? It wouldn’t be a permanent solution but might be a faster way to get it going.
![]() 08/02/2016 at 09:30 |
|
I could, but the reason it’s knocking is a combination of the shitty oil drain making the turbo spew a tiny bit of oil into the intake, and the lack of an intercooler resulting in super hot intake air charges. Once I do the oil drain line I’ll seafoam and ATF flush and do an oil change and if my lifters go back to sort of working I’ll see where I’m at.
![]() 08/02/2016 at 09:33 |
|
Gotcha. Good luck!
![]() 08/02/2016 at 09:51 |
|
Oh yeah, front sway bar is so great to have! Ive got the Flyin Miata one on mine and it balanced the oversteer so much better than the stock one. Now my car actually will understeer a tiny bit at the limit if the conditions are right. But just in general I don’t get any of that tail swinging around every time I turn unless I give it a little too much throttle (thanks torsen). I am glad I didn’t go with the bigger racing beat one because I think that would have been too much front bar. I do kinda wish I got some stiffer springs though, since it was only like $200 for the better vmaxx track pack. Very happy with the regular vmaxx coils though, much better than 150k mile stock shit!
![]() 08/02/2016 at 11:48 |
|
Yeah I’m wanting to get the racing beat front since I’ll definitely want an understeer bias with turbo power going to the rear wheels. I think.
![]() 08/02/2016 at 11:52 |
|
First time I’ve read that Miata isn’t the answer.
![]() 08/02/2016 at 14:15 |
|
Racing beat is supposed to be very good too but it does recommend some sort of chassis reinforcement block or something. And you could certainly do a rear sway if it is too much front. But either bar is awesome for sure.