oppinion

"OPPOsaurus WRX" (opposaurus) 03/16/2016 at 09:05 • Filed to: None

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I have a leak. I’m 90% sure its coming from the cam shaft seal which requires me to take everything apart. This would include timing belt, removing cams, resetting timing and tools I dont have. I’d like to take care of a few other things first like a CV axle and secondary air pump. Could this stop the leak temporarily? maybe for the summer or something? are their negative side effect?

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EL_ULY > OPPOsaurus WRX 03/16/2016 at 09:21

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There are some dudes I’ve known that have used those things with zero results.

As far as the leak, I just drove mine with the a/c on recirculate so the smoke won’t come inside the cabin. T’was a smoke show in traffic though, especially at red lights

CalzoneGolem > OPPOsaurus WRX 03/16/2016 at 09:21

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I’m certain everyone will tell you to not use stop leak, but I’m certain people also told you not to buy an All Road.

nerd_racing > OPPOsaurus WRX 03/16/2016 at 09:22

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I would be leery, think of all the other things this will stick to inside your engine.

OPPOsaurus WRX > nerd_racing 03/16/2016 at 09:28

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thats what I was thinking

That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms > OPPOsaurus WRX 03/16/2016 at 09:31

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You sure it's not a cam cover gasket? They're known for those.

E92M3 > OPPOsaurus WRX 03/16/2016 at 09:38

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I wouldn’t (as the owner of a car where a previous owner used radiator stop leak). Guess what? The radiator still leaks, but now the heater core is plugged up. That $10 bottle of magic has doubled the original cost of repair, as it now needs a radiator AND a heater core. These products should only be used by people with worthless cars, where it’s not worth the investment to repair it correctly, and if they get another 3-4 months out the car before scrapping it then hooray. And if not, well then they’re only out $10. They be better off buying scratchoffs with that $10 in most cases.

OPPOsaurus WRX > That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms 03/16/2016 at 09:40

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it could be that, i may have messed up the name, I just remeber it requiring me to remove the cams to replace the seal

Party-vi > OPPOsaurus WRX 03/16/2016 at 09:48

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Do not use stop leak products on that engine. Bad juju

That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms > OPPOsaurus WRX 03/16/2016 at 09:54

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You don't have to remove the cams to do the cam cover gaskets or the front cam seals. I did my front cam seals when I did the timing belt on my allroad, cams stayed in the car.

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > OPPOsaurus WRX 03/16/2016 at 10:05

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Stop Leak is the devil.

Ash78, voting early and often > That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms 03/16/2016 at 10:17

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I think he’s referring to the half-moon cam chain tensioner gasket that sits under the cam. You do have to compress the cam chain tensioner and lift the cam slightly to do it. The chances of rotating the cam while it’s still attached to the timing belt are very slim, but the job is still a PITA. I put the job off for years, it's really just a convenience thing (until you start leaking 1/2 qt with every trip and smoking at every stoplight, which is when I decided to go ahead and do it..)

Ash78, voting early and often > OPPOsaurus WRX 03/16/2016 at 10:18

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According to most Audi people, using any sort of oil or coolant additive will cause 20 other things to break in the car (most of which have nothing to do with oil or coolant).

nerd_racing > nerd_racing 03/16/2016 at 10:18

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I did a little digging. @ 100C Lucas treatment has a viscosity of 38 cSt. My co worker has a B5 S4 that takes 5w30. @ 100C that’s 5 cSt. Basically it will be increasing your oil viscosity. I’m sure there are other additives in it too, but the main action is increasing viscosity. I wouldn’t take that gamble on such a complex engine.

JawzX2, Boost Addict. 1.6t, 2.7tt, 4.2t > OPPOsaurus WRX 03/16/2016 at 10:20

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appropriate vehicle on which to use Lucas engine oil stop leak:

results of using Lucas engine oil stop leak on modern high-performance engine:

(ok, not really, but you get the idea)

d15b > nerd_racing 03/16/2016 at 10:21

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Exactly. Go ahead and do it on a D-Series 93 Honda Civic engine, but not on an older Audi.

nerd_racing > d15b 03/16/2016 at 10:25

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I wouldn’t use it on anything with hydraulic lash adjusters or lifters. Maybe if it ran solid lifters or manually adjusted ones. Even then... If you still want to try it, why not go all out, I work with stuff that’s 600,000 cSt at 25C

OPPOsaurus WRX > Ash78, voting early and often 03/16/2016 at 10:27

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or it could fix something. when I fixed my door latch, the buzzer to tell me i have low fuel started working again

d15b > nerd_racing 03/16/2016 at 10:28

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Okay, I get the point of running a higher viscosity oil if you’re slightly burning it, but you blew my mind with the “600,000 cSt at 25C”, haha.

OPPOsaurus WRX > Ash78, voting early and often 03/16/2016 at 10:28

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i think you have it but the youtube I watched was pretty thorough and said the timing belt had to be removed

OPPOsaurus WRX > That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms 03/16/2016 at 10:28

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its more to the rear of the engine, somewhat lower. I think Ash78 has it right

OPPOsaurus WRX > JawzX2, Boost Addict. 1.6t, 2.7tt, 4.2t 03/16/2016 at 10:30

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damn......

Ash78, voting early and often > OPPOsaurus WRX 03/16/2016 at 10:31

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It’s possible the youtube video (which, frankly, I absolutely hate compared to using the Bentley manual, Haynes, or online DIY write-ups) was already doing a TB job, so removing the TB first would make the job easier if you're already doing it all at once...

TFSIVTEC drivesavolvo > OPPOsaurus WRX 03/16/2016 at 10:35

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If you want to try a quick fix that won’t sludge up the oil I’d try swelling up the cam seal with brake clean, might maybe work but at least it’s worth a try, just try not to soak the timing belt with Brake Klean, it will cause premature failure

OPPOsaurus WRX > Ash78, voting early and often 03/16/2016 at 10:38

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i also have no knowledge of the timing belts age so it wouldn;t be the worst thing to do

Ash78, voting early and often > OPPOsaurus WRX 03/16/2016 at 10:43

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That’s a job I would leave to the pros. I won’t even touch it. Expect about $1,200 on the low end, $1,800 on the high end for the 2.7tt (including water pump, rollers, etc). Add another $500 if you want them to do the cam/gasket stuff, too, since a lot of the labor overlaps. But once that’s done, you know the most important parts of the engine will be good to go for a long time. Then you can save up for turbo problems :D

nerd_racing > d15b 03/16/2016 at 10:57

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Viscous torsional damper fluid is thick stuff, but it works really well. It’s a shame most vehicles are so tight on costs, otherwise they would all use it. The LFA, the Audi V10, Mclaren, Bugatti, and many others use them factory.

OPPOsaurus WRX > Ash78, voting early and often 03/16/2016 at 11:17

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I found a guy that said it would be $300 if it were just the valve cover gaskets and $1000 for cam seal and timing belt

Ash78, voting early and often > OPPOsaurus WRX 03/16/2016 at 11:22

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$300 is reasonable for part 1, $1,000 is a downright steal for part 2.

That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms > OPPOsaurus WRX 03/16/2016 at 11:22

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Ah, I gotcha. Yeah I think he has it right.

d15b > nerd_racing 03/16/2016 at 11:23

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Can we please stick with “because racecar” as our be it all reasoning for all things Jalop?

nerd_racing > d15b 03/16/2016 at 11:33

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Having owned an MX-3, I endorse this decision.

ESSSIX GmbH - Accountant/Wagon Thumper > OPPOsaurus WRX 03/16/2016 at 20:01

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Your car is a 2.7 isnt it?

OPPOsaurus WRX > ESSSIX GmbH - Accountant/Wagon Thumper 03/16/2016 at 20:45

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Yes. The manuals only came with the tt6. The auto had that or the 4.2 v8

ESSSIX GmbH - Accountant/Wagon Thumper > OPPOsaurus WRX 03/16/2016 at 23:01

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Nice, I forgot yours was 6mt, as im sure others have told you, its a bad idea. Also think of the turbos.