Fix It Or Sell It: A Jalop’s Dilemma

"Peter Monshizadeh" (practicalenthusiast) 03/14/2016 at 11:05 • Filed to: Overhaul, Garage, Lexus, LS400, LS 400, Advice, sentimental

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A best friend. A trusty steed. Your favorite vehicle.

It has served you well for years and provided nearly maintenance-free service. Many memories – good and bad – have happened in and around that vehicle. It’s always been 100% ready even when you haven’t been.

It’s the human connections like these that turn a machine into something more for its owner.

We’ve all probably arrived at this crossroad at some point in our lives. That adored vehicle isn’t what it used to be. All of those worry-free years have caught up to us. In their wake are oil puddles, mysterious vibrations, wonky steering, and general disrepair. What does one do when faced with this dilemma? The options are simple yet the choices are hard:

Sell it in an attempt to reap a return. Buy a different car that you have no history with. Or…

Go out of your way to fix your long-time mechanical companion.

I recently faced this difficult decision. My trustworthy 1993 Lexus LS400 had been a stellar car since the day I bought it. I’d never driven a car that was so smooth and quiet. Oil changes were about the only thing it required. Then, after a couple of years, the defects started to pile up. Oil spots began appearing on the driveway and the aroma of burning oil lingered in the air. The steering wheel shook like mad above 60 MPH. The brakes pulsated and the power steering pump whined. The whole car had an annoying vibration when at a stop. Needless to say, the 23 years of carefree driving began to catch up to the LS400. I had a general understanding of how cars worked and I knew that these symptoms were an indication that multiple systems within the car needed attention.

And Now, Deep Thoughts

I spent a few weeks seriously considering a new car. The thought of a factory warrantied automobile that would drive like new because, well, it was new, seemed like a solid proposition. Imagine 10 years of uninterrupted reliability! Ultimately, that thought process passed. $20,000 is a lot of money no matter how you slice it, and even that doesn’t buy you a whole lot of new car. As someone of modest means, taking on the financial burden of a new car was a gulp too large to swallow.

I then considered getting another used car. Having owned a Lexus LS400, I found myself wanting the same qualities of that car in my next car. Let me tell you straight that there is no direct replacement for an LS400. Reliability, build quality, affordability, comfort, quietness, smoothness, and general presence. There simply isn’t anything with all of these qualities aside from another Lexus LS. A used car also may prove to be just as in need of repairs as my current car. Cars come up for sale for many reasons, but with older cars, it is often because the seller has identified a problem they are not willing to have fixed. As the phrase goes, “The car you know best is the car you already have.”

I then looked into fixing the trusty LS400 in my driveway. I knew that taking it to a reputable shop would be an extremely pricey proposition. Also, shops typically don’t like you to bring in a list of 30 things that need fixed. Tying up one of their services bays for long periods of time is only feasible if there is a sizeable profit waiting on the other end. They have a business to run, who can blame them?

I researched how to do some of the procedures I would need to do and determined that, with some luck, I could take them on in my garage. I then made out a spreadsheet detailing the estimated cost of all parts and materials I would need. Not cheap, but still much cheaper than a few months with a new car payment.

Finally, I came to a decision. I can’t say that my particular decision was wise. In fact many will disagree with it based mainly on their perceived value of time. I feel that I am a true Jalop, and any length of time under the hood is better spent than time vegging out to Netflix. With great hesitation, I pulled out my debit card and began buying a large number of parts. So many parts that I had a fraudulent activity hold put against my card three separate times. After convincing my bank that, Yes, I have made twenty-three separate transactions on eBay within the last hour , the parts were on their way. It took about a week and a half to get everything, which was OK, because that allowed me some time to plan.

I divided this project into two separate operations:

Peripherals: Suspension and chassis related jobs

Engine: Essentially everything under the hood

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Fixing The Peripherals

I started with the peripheral repairs because I figured these would require the most physical effort as I had to get under the car to do all of them. If I couldn’t manage to replace these particular parts then there was no point in proceeding to the complex and delicate engine repairs.

1. Replace the engine mounts

New engine mounts would potentially cure the rough vibrations I had sensed when the car was started and when it was idling at a stop.

Here’s a comparison between the old and new engine mounts. You can see how much the old ones had been compressed over time. Also, you can see how the new mount designs have evolved ever so slightly.

To replace the engine mounts, the whole front subframe must be lowered and the engine must be supported separately with a jack. It was a balancing act, but doable with only one person.

2. Replace the steering rack bushings

New bushings would hopefully cure some of the sloppy steering I was experiencing. I installed new stiffer polyurethane bushings to replace the old and deteriorated rubber mounts.

3. Replace the steering damper

The original steering damper was shot. From the outside it looked fine and it wasn’t leaking. However, when I removed it I could tell it had an inch of free play in the center of its travel. This no doubt led to harsh steering wheel vibrations at highway speeds.

I decided to fit a much more robust Bilstein damper from a Mercedes S-Class. Not only was it the same dimensions and significantly cheaper than OEM, it was also much better constructed than the original KYB unit.

Here is the new steering damper fitted.

4. Replace the strut bar mount bushings

The original strut mount bushings were dry rotted and possibly leading to brake pulsation as their primary function is to locate the front control arms. Old bushings such as these can allow the control arms to move excessively fore and aft, especially when under load during braking.

Here is a comparison between the new and old bushings. It’s hard to tell the difference when they are not under suspension load.

5. Replace the high-pressure power steering line

While I had the steering rack and subframe lowered, it was perfect time to replace the high-pressure power steering line running from the pump to the rack. I was uncertain that this line was leaking - all I knew was that it was drenched in hydraulic fluid that originated from somewhere. I figured it wasn’t worth risking an old part since I was already in there.

6. Replace the fuel filter

This is one of those easy 30 minute jobs. Just unscrew a couple of fittings, drip a little bit of fuel, and slide in the new one. Simple!

What I hadn’t envisioned was frantically squirming around on the garage floor the second I loosened one of the fuel line fittings, which resulted in an endless petroleum shower pouring from above. Gasoline to the eyeball is such a wonderful sensation. Two and a half hours later, the battle was won and the filter was in. Good times!

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Fixing the Engine

After having fixed most of my periphery issues, I had gained the confidence I needed to start tackling the jobs in the engine bay that required a bit more “precision.”

1. Replace the power steering pump

The LS400 is a well-engineered vehicle, but no vehicle is without its dumb designs. The most prominent dumb design on the big Lexus is the power steering pump mounted directly above the alternator. When the pump inevitably begins to leak, the escaped fluid travels the path of least resistance, which happens to be directly into the alternator. Needless to say, the result is a large repair bill because both items eventually need replacement.

Fortunately I was able to salvage the existing alternator. Following a thorough clean out and inspection it was good as new.

The steering pump, on the other hand, definitely needed replaced. Here’s a quick comparison of the old and new power steering pumps:

While I had the new pump on the bench, I took this time to install a new air control valve. This vacuum operated valve gives the steering that buttery-smooth and light operation that Lexus is known for. Many owners opt to remove this and plug the hole because the valve can fail over time leading to power steering fluid being sucked into the intake manifold of the engine and being burned off in large plume of white smoke. In my opinion it is definitely worth fitting a new valve to preserve the smooth and effortless steering.

New power steering pump installed:

2. Changing the valve cover gaskets

Replacing valve cover gaskets on most vehicles is typically an easy and relatively quick job. I found that the Lexus was a bit more involved than any other car I’ve worked on due to difficult to access bolts, wiring harnesses galore, and general lack of space. They are certainly doable but I would allot yourself at least a whole day to take it on.

As you can see, there was quite a lot of oil residue developing. I hoped that changing these gaskets would remedy some of the burning oil smell.

When the valve covers are removed you are able to see the camshafts in all of their glory. Someone with a great deal of time on their hands would also take this opportunity to check the valve clearances and adjust them as needed. That is a job in itself and I hadn’t been experiencing symptoms of this needing done, so I left everything as it was.

It became apparent that oil leakage was coming from not just the valve cover gasket, but also the camshaft bearing end caps. It would be silly to not reseal these while I was in here. This is one of the reasons this job can take so much time.

Everything cleaned up, resealed and torqued down:

Here you can see the valve covers refitted with new gaskets, spark plug tube seals, and sealing washers on all bolts.

3. Replace water pump, timing belt, tensioner, pulleys, seals…

The next phase required complete strip down of the front of the engine and would necessitate the most concentration. I knew that at least one of the camshaft seals was leaking and it was the major contributor to the oil spots on the driveway. Of course, to get to this seal means you must remove everything in front of it. This was a great opportunity to do a complete 100k mile service that included a new water pump and timing belt.

A long road lies ahead:

Just when you think you’re almost there, you realize how far away you really are… here you can already see the oil residue originating from the old camshaft seals. It looks like both were actually leaking.

Here are the individual seals on the front side of the engine. I don’t think they had ever been replaced in the car’s 163,000 miles.

It’s a good idea to clean up all oil residue you find as you go. You don’t want to get any of that junk inside of the engine when you begin to remove the seals and water pump. Pictured below is the final tear down stage. Everything has been removed that needs to be removed, including the water pump. From this point on it is just reassembly.

New OEM Lexus parts ready to go in! The price difference between OEM and aftermarket is so small so it was a no-brainer going with the OEM option.

The new seals are in, the new water pump is installed and new tensioner and pulleys are fitted.

The new timing belt is now in and all timing marks are properly aligned.

Now is a good time to install new ignition rotors, caps, and spark plugs.

4. Replace the main components of the cooling system.

The original radiator and hoses were still nestled securely in the car. While there was no sign of leakage, it would be foolish to assume they would last another 10 years or 100k miles. Plastic and rubber does have a lifespan even if it is a Toyota. So, with having a new water pump installed, it made sense to put in a new radiator and hoses.

As I began removing the old radiator it became very clear its expiration date was soon approaching.

Here is the new radiator and hoses installed.

Everything buttoned up, timing belt sticker applied and all fluid systems bled. The overhaul is complete!

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So, was it worth it?

Turning on the ignition after just having had everything completely apart is a nerve wracking experience. You fully anticipate something to go horribly wrong. Not because you know you screwed something up along the way, but instead because you have seen how many individual parts must work together to produce a functioning vehicle. How could such complex machinery work like clockwork every time?

Luckily, the engine started right up and I let out a huge sigh of relief. It was once again the car it should have been all along. Smooth doesn’t even begin to describe the engine. The steering was light and tight and there were no vibrations to be felt anywhere. It’s been three weeks and 600 miles and there is not a hint of a leak or anything else amiss.

I invested a total of 10 days and spent $1622.64 in parts and supplies. Many hours were put into researching how to do certain procedures. I combed over the service manual for detailed specifications and I scoured the interwebs to find the best deal on quality parts and special tools. Prep work is required to take on a job like this and minimize down time. If anything, that was hardest part of the whole operation. If you can do all of the planning upfront it will pay dividends in the end.

I feel I made the right choice reviving my current vehicle only after I was finished. Looking back, I see that the process was stressful and full of uncertainty. At the time of ordering the parts, I felt that I had made the WRONG decision. It is one thing to have purchased all the parts you need, it is a completely different animal actually installing them successfully. The aftermath of old parts, pictured above, made me all the more thankful to have gone through with the overhaul as many of those parts were on their last legs.

With ambition, a few tools, and moderate mechanical aptitude, any Jalop could undertake such an operation. If you have a special attachment to your vehicle, it may very well be worth holding on to it and giving it the love it deserves. In the end you’ll be happy you did.

thebigbossyboss > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 11:20

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Excellent read. I just replace my old dead alternator myself in a parking lot (long story) and even turning the car on then was nerve wracking due to having to remove the serpentine belt. Once I get a new car I may do something like this to my old 2003 Cavalier. It still runs pretty well, but a lot of things could due to be replacing. I have an oil leak that only leaks when it’s running. It doesn’t drip but the engine bay is covered and typically have to pour in a quart every 1500 miles. Yikes. 231,000 kms on it.

What I have learned through painting, replacing the suspension and fixing the alternator is preparation is key. Especially with painting. Lots of research before hand, and on the car itself...5 hours of prep...5 minutes of painting lol. "Gasoline in the eye is a great experience" ..kind of remind me of the time I accidentally got a mouthful of 3 years old power steering fluid...that was pretty gross too.

Steve in Manhattan > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 11:20

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It’s clear you made the right decision.

Guy called in to Car Talk once - he owned an early LS400 with about 300K on it - all he’d ever done was brakes, tires, and bulbs. The car had the original plugs and wires. I forget the question, but I think it had something to do with ‘ how much longer should I keep this thing.’ It’s pretty clear these cars are what W123 diesels were in their day - bulletproof.

adamftw > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 11:21

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That thing is mint. You made the right call.

Peter Monshizadeh > thebigbossyboss 03/14/2016 at 11:32

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Mmm power steering fluid. You are now immune!

Peter Monshizadeh > Steve in Manhattan 03/14/2016 at 11:33

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Thanks Steve. I bought the LS because I always liked the looks of them but I’ve been happy with the reliability that came with it!

Peter Monshizadeh > adamftw 03/14/2016 at 11:34

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Thank you sir! It’s been a good car, it seemed a shame to throw it out.

shop-teacher > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 11:35

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Excellent work! You definitely made the right call. I can’t tell you how jealous I am that it’s so rust free under there.

Needmoargarage > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 11:39

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This is how I feel about most cars when I decide to follow the ‘keep’ route, however, it always seems worth it in the end. Great write-up and good work!

Peter Monshizadeh > Needmoargarage 03/14/2016 at 11:43

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Thank you! This is the first time I’ve fixed a car with the intention to keep it for a while. Usually the temptation to get into a different car wins out.

Peter Monshizadeh > shop-teacher 03/14/2016 at 11:48

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Thank you! It’s been a Midwest car since new as far as I know. Toyota did a great job sealing up these cars. I’m beginning to see a hint rust starting at the inside bottom of the doors. Hopefully I can stop it before it turns into a fully blown problem.

Turbineguy: Nom de Zoom > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 11:54

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You sir have earned not just the Jalop merit badge, but the cape to go with. Did you have a guru for backup in case something went sideways? My dad had 3 LSs, leased new. (90/93/96) Very nice cars and their design has held up well.

Steve in Manhattan > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 11:55

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Should have said: I drove one of these back in ‘91 (?) - had an ‘87 300D at the time. I remember thinking that while some of the switchgear looked like stuff on my ‘88 Camry 5M wagon, the car was every bit of what the Mercedes was, better priced, and rode better. For me, what came after the W124 was the beginning of the decline for Mercedes.

Peter Monshizadeh > Turbineguy: Nom de Zoom 03/14/2016 at 11:58

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Thanks Turbine. Honestly, my backup was the full Lexus service manual in paperback. We’re talking 3 different manuals, each like 3 inches thick. They have everything you need to know. If the stuff really hit the fan, well, I still had a motorcycle!

David Tracy > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 12:30

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Good job!

Peter Monshizadeh > David Tracy 03/14/2016 at 12:31

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Thanks David!

graham > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 12:38

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With respect to your statement of “23 years of carefree driving began to catch up to the LS400", I would disagree. Several years of neglected maintenance and a total lack of responsibility is what caught up with you. Fixing those issues either as preventive maintenance items, or addressing them soon after the symptoms began to appear would have resulted in lower overall costs, very little “downtime” and the satisfaction of operating a car that’s not a danger to other motorists.

Boredgod > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 12:38

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In true Jalop fashion, you could just add it to the collection. Don’t worry about fixing or selling. Nice article in any case.

GrannyShifter (don't judge my Hofmeister kink) > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 12:40

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Put another check in the ‘right call’ column! You saved a good car, and should easily be able to handle almost anything else that comes up in the future.

This is a very good example of what old car ownership is like. If you are going to own a 20+ year old car, you better learn how to fix it yourself, or be ready to pay someone to do it. If neither is an option, than you should sell it or keep a bicycle in the trunk for the day it dies on you.

alan > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 12:40

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never saw a steering damper on a rack and pinion steering system. guess you learn something new every day!

nice work on the car! always tough to decide what to do with a car at a point.

StolenIdentity(TrueMopar4Life) > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 12:40

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I always look at it from the standpoint of, if I can fix it every year for less than a car payment, I’m keeping it.

My current build/rebuild can be seen here: http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f11/f69… Basically, popped a HG, will end with motor completely redone, lowered, fresh paint, and more customizing.

darthshiznit > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 12:41

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Best car I ever had and so sad I totalled it.

Had the exact power steering pump leaking on the alternator issue at the worst possible time while I was in Myrtle Beach with my final High School girlfriend 2 weeks before we went to different colleges.

Guy at the shop said get back to Raleigh and don’t turn the car off.

Fortunately I had paid for an aftermarket warranty and the Lexus dealer gave me a car to drive and I only paid $150 for the $1200 dollar repair.

Awesome job man.

John Static > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 12:43

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My hat is off to you, sir. Job well done and well documented.

David Ruddock > shop-teacher 03/14/2016 at 12:45

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Right? This car is SHOCKINGLY clean. Clearly absolutely worthy of the attention it received. I’m not big on the LS myself, but I’d drive this one. Sweet ride.

hednik4am > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 12:46

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Wow ! Only $1622 !!! thats chump change compared to buying a new car, or even a beater. Thats 3-4 months of a car payment or only two Lexus car payments. When it came down to diagnosing all the issues how many different sources did you use and how long did that part take ? How confident were you in your diagnosing ALL the issues ?

RSA > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 12:47

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Inspiring. Nicely done.

Manwich - now Keto-Friendly > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 12:49

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Only $1600... and that included a new radiator. That’s very reasonable given all the other stuff you did.

And it’s definitely worth it if you love the car.

Pending Approval > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 12:49

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as i’m sure most of us do, just drive it till it the cost of repairing it becomes more than a down payment.

I miss my old car, comfortable and smooth, but I don’t miss spending my sunday nights working on it and praying it will last me through the work week so I can fix whatever breaks on it that next weekend.

ratonbox > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 12:50

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If there ever was a better car to bring back to life is a Lexus. The quality and comfort can’t be matched by a comparable new car (for the same kind of money).

bbutle01 > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 12:51

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Ok guys, this makes me think about my problem...

I have a 2007 Armada that’s running great but at about 60 MPH I start to get quite a shimmy in the steering wheel. It has done this since the last alignment. I just got new front tires and it’s doing it there too. I just did brakes and rotors myself about 5k miles ago so that’s not it.

Any ideas? I didn’t realize how bad it had gotten until I spent a week driving my wife’s car that has 117k miles but the steering is perfect.

DerW220 > Steve in Manhattan 03/14/2016 at 12:54

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I highly disagree with that last part.

DieselNoise > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 12:56

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I sincerely wish I could star this article more than once! Absolutely awesome writeup!

Peter Monshizadeh > ratonbox 03/14/2016 at 12:56

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I couldn’t agree more.

Peter Monshizadeh > DieselNoise 03/14/2016 at 12:56

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Thank you!

Dangerous > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 12:57

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I have this dilemma right now and I could use some guidance. I recently bought a 1996 Chevy Express 5.7 which I planned on using as a family van since I have a 2nd child due in late July. The van had been sitting for 10 years and only has 70k miles on it. I put new gas in it, new cap and rotor, plugs, oil, filters, etc and started it up and it sounded like it had an exhaust leak. Anyways, I started the DMV paperwork to get the title and of course it requires a smog (i’m in California). I figured I could smog it pretty easily, but soon discovered the water pump was leaking really bad. I replaced the water pump and on my first real test drive the engine starting ticking really loud on the passenger side and then coolant temps starting soaring. I pulled off the freeway before the temps got into the red, but as soon as I pulled off the radiator sprung a leak. Once the steam settled I could see the source of the crack. I also discovered lots of oil in my coolant (no coolant in the oil however). I paid $1,850 for the van and bought new tires for it and a water pump so I’ve got $2500 into it at this point. It also needs a lot of interior work.

I need to make a decision right now. Assuming the worst (cracked head) I’ve got probably another $2,500 to invest in this van to make it a reliable family hauler. Or, I register it non-op just to get the title and try selling it. Now I know I’ve already lost money on this one, but how much? If I could get my $2500 back I’d be happy, but I doubt I could. Should I just try to re-coupe as much as possible...which is likely $1500 and just eat $1k? Or should I take my time and repair this van so it’s ready for late July?

Peter Monshizadeh > StolenIdentity(TrueMopar4Life) 03/14/2016 at 12:58

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That’s a great rule to live by. And best of luck in your build!

Peter Monshizadeh > John Static 03/14/2016 at 12:58

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Thank you!

99GTS > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 12:59

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Ugh, I need to do this as well. I have a 5 speed SC300 that needs some work but since I bought my Viper 2 years ago it gets very little attention.

OpposResidentLexusGuy - USE20, XF20, XU30 and Press Cars > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 13:01

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You made the right choice. I’ve already decided I’m never getting rid of this car. Going to put around $1200 into it before the week is out.

SgtFancypants > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 13:01

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Even at twice the price for the work you did you got a great deal. $1600 comes in far, far short of the money it would take to even approach a replacement for this car. Good on you.

Peter Monshizadeh > hednik4am 03/14/2016 at 13:02

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Before I bought all the parts, I felt confident I had diagnosed everything properly. I checked all of the forums and reviewed the factory service manual multiple times. Only after buying the parts that the gloom of possibly missing something occurred. I was OK in the end. There were still lots of trips to the local auto parts store to get shop supply things, but all major parts I had. I guess that’s what happens when you replace nearly everything!

RedWhine > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 13:03

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Very nicely done. Love these old LS’. I always tell myself if my Rolla dies, an LS will replace it. That said, I know damn well the Rolla will probably outlive me. But good to know there are still clean, unmolested ones rolling around out there. Keep up the good work.

jim > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 13:04

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I had a similar dilemma late last year. Unfortunately for myself, I don’t have the tools, knowledge or area to do most of the fixes. Over the summer my buddy replaced the timing and various other belts, did a tune up and recharged my AC. Luckily parts were cheap and he did it for a few hundred bucks. But in a “real” shop that would have been a few thousand in labor. The ultimate factor that made me say bye to my 02 Mazda Protege5 was good old car cancer. My car had plenty of frame rust. At that point it’s not worth it to fix.

Steve in Manhattan > DerW220 03/14/2016 at 13:05

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So when did the decline begin, for you? The next S Class was a bloated monstrosity, the C Class wasn’t particularly good ... there were lots of quality issues in the 90s and early 2000s. But my ‘87 300D had that vaultlike quality that I knew from the original 300SD and the W123.

Peter Monshizadeh > Dangerous 03/14/2016 at 13:06

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That’s a difficult situation, I’m sorry. In your situation, due to a growing family that needs a larger and reliable vehicle, I believe you would better off attempting to recoup as much money as possible by selling it. There are many other options out on the used market for not too much more money that would get you by with far less headaches.

Chan - Mid-engine with cabin fever > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 13:07

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That, sir, is top work. Congratulations and enjoy your refreshed machine!

FrederickLawOlmsteez > John Static 03/14/2016 at 13:07

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Yeah, nicely done. You had me going there for the first couple of paragraphs. The idea that you were “living” with so many issues didn’t inspire confidence in your wrenching skills!

John Burnside > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 13:07

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Thanks for some very timely information; I'm pondering what to do with my now-ailing 1998 Lexus LS400 with 276,000 miles on it. My love for the car, and your very well-written essay, have helped me decide; she's a keeper!

PS9 > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 13:08

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$1600 for another 23 years of flawless operation seems like a good deal to me. That’s less than $6/month if you want to think of it in car payment terms.

MrMcQueen21v2 > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 13:10

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Awesome write up! Money aside, isn’t it just the best feeling to drive something you’ve repaired extensively yourself? I’m getting ready to tear into my 04 Mustang. The intake manifold has been cracked and leaking for years, but stop leak has mostly taken care of it. Now I’m to the point where I can better afford to do something about it. So it’ll get the manifold and seals, a new thermostat while I’m at it, new radiator hoses, a radiator inspection, spark plugs, a thorough engine bay cleaning, and I think I’ll add a water temp gauge to replace the glorified idiot light of a “gauge” on the cluster.

MrMcQueen21v2 > Steve in Manhattan 03/14/2016 at 13:11

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That reminds me a bit of my dad. His Mountaineer is showing some rough spots on the exterior because of the lovely crap Ford called paint back in the mid 00's, but at 185k, it’s still on the original brakes, 2nd set of tires, original plugs/wires, etc. Some people just get stupid great wear on cars.

petroloony > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 13:15

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Bravo!! excellent choice in my opinion and an excellent article describing said excellent choice. I nurse my Chevy Tahoe tow vehicle and it’s 300K+ miles and my 22 year old Volvo 850 turbo wagon along. $1622 would’ve evaporated in a hurry with sales tax and more costly ins. premiums on a new car. Repairs are generally cheaper than depreciation.

DavidHH > ratonbox 03/14/2016 at 13:16

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Nah, there are a number of models from a variety of manufacturers worth fixing. Each have their own special issues, ranging from parts supply to ease of service & rust.

Travis M. Cotton > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 13:17

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One of the best articles Ive read here. Saying this was a great job would be a severe understatement. Please enjoy a virtual drink of your choice on me!

MFEJAL grey because who knows... > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 13:18

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I want to do the same to my 2004 Crown Vic, but I have ZERO mech skills. I can change a tire, but can’t change a rotor without collapsing after 19 hours of pain.

Ad_absurdum_per_aspera > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 13:19

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1622.64

That could easily be one trip to a garage for a medium-sized bit of maintenance... or just one of any number of known unknowns and unknown unknowns that might have come up had you traded for some other used car instead of sticking with this known quantity.

And of course it’s probably the depreciation that a comparable new car would suffer during the time that it took for your butt to warm up the driver’s seat on the way home from the dealership.

I think you made a good call. Reminds me of a recent decision to put a rebuilt engine in my Forester when it blew a head gasket after 15 years and 200-something-thousand miles. The cost was large enough compared to the car’s value to make me go through similar thought processes...

...which led to a similar decision. Other major systems had already been gone through or were still in good shape, and the car served my needs, so I figured I’d invest enough to be reasonably assured of another 5/50 and see how things look in 2020 vision.

Edsel > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 13:19

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Did you have alternate transportation while repairing your car?

Luc - The Acadian Oppo > shop-teacher 03/14/2016 at 13:20

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I was thinking the very same thing. It’s most likely the reason such repairs were possible. For me I would of broke like 15 bolts, some important part would of seized completely where no amount of whacking it with a hammer would set it free.

When I see a 20+ year old car that is rust free my amount of jealousy goes true the roof. I shitty car that is rust free is way cooler than a cool car that is a rusty.

DavidHH > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 13:21

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A thorough steam cleaning of the body will help remove corrosives.

Also you should find out if the car has blocks of sacrificial metal bonded to the body. These give their life, reacting before the sheet metal does, to protect the body, but when they are gone, the whole car breaks out into rust. And since Japanese Cold Rolled Steel is recycled, but not re-smelted, the metal had rust in it before the car was made.

Steve in Manhattan > MrMcQueen21v2 03/14/2016 at 13:21

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If you drive it carefully, if you don’t push it, if you don’t jam on the brakes and stomp on the gas, it is amazing what a modern car can deliver. Some people get 150K on a clutch. If I needed a car, I’d like to get a big Lexus and see what I could squeeze out of it. Or a Boxster, and drive like an idiot ....

primalzer > hednik4am 03/14/2016 at 13:21

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But remember, a new car has a warranty, he’s still on the hook for any repairs that crop up. Of all the items that he did, it still won’t prevent a rod bearing from letting go, the trans from giving up the ghost, the rear end from grenading, the computer from taking a dump. He’s future proofed those parts that he replaced, but the car is far from future proof.

Ad_absurdum_per_aspera > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 13:23

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So has Matt Farah made it to his hoped-for million miles with one of these yet?

mtdrift > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 13:24

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Great stuff - I’ve been contemplating the same set of issues with my Jeep lately. The siren song of a new ride (even if it’s only new to you) is always hard to ignore, but I also get a lot of satisfaction from keeping the old heap purring along.

DavidHH > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 13:25

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It’s called buying your car back, and I’ve done it a number of times. The key is knowing everything that needs service, avoiding rust buckets, cars you can’t get parts for, and Automatic Transmissions if possible. The seals, internal and external on automatics fail, requiring a minor rebuild.

Ford Aerostar > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 13:25

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I went through this dilemma in 2011. I’d bought my 1992 NX 2000 new and it saw me through 260,000kms. The engine bottom end went.

So I put in a new JDM engine (with 88,000kms on it), had the suspension done much as you described...then the next year a rebuilt transmission. the fuel pump went, and a couple of batteries later a year ago I found that another fuel pump went AND the ECU computer.

This would have been $2000+ because I was told the parts were virtually unobtainable new (thanks to the Tsunami wiping out an old Nissan parts warehouse) and no guarantee on the used parts. So, I had to let it go, factoring in that I now had 360,000 kms out of it. I got $500 for the scrap value.

I hope her good parts went to some enthusiast. My wife actually cried seeing it hauled away on the flatbed...it saw me through my mid 20s all the way to my almost 50's.

Sentient Portrait of Leonid Brezhnev > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 13:26

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Very nice article on the repairs. It’s good to see people make the best choice and keep their old vehicles, even though that kind of repair can be intimidating. I think it seems more intimidating than it is when you have to to a bunch of stuff at once, rather than the same stuff over a length of time. But in the end, it all adds up the same. It would have been worth it even if you went to a mechanic to do it, since the price of even a cheapish new car is far greater. I’m sure that Lexus gives you more satisfaction than a new Honda Fit would, and the older it gets, the cooler it looks.

LHturbo > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 13:26

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SO thats where the Supra gets the stupid fucking steering air control valve from. That thing breaks on every supra ive ever seen. I plugged mine because they wanted way too much OEM for it. Maybe the lexus part will fit right in...Cause last i checked it was 1/3rd your entire budget.

Anthony Miller > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 13:27

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So was this ten days over the course of a month? Ten days in a row? How did you decide to prioritize the work?

MrRubberGaskets > Peter Monshizadeh 03/14/2016 at 13:28

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Nice Job :D

dannyzabolotny > primalzer 03/14/2016 at 13:30

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True, any of those could go bad. But there’s a good chance that they won’t (see Matt Farah’s million mile Lexus). And even if they do, a replacement engine and/or replacement transmission wouldn’t cost much in a car of this age. That’s the good thing about having an old RWD car, the transmissions are super easy to swap out, and there are plenty of decent transmissions out there that have been pulled from scrapped cars.