![]() 09/30/2015 at 14:19 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
I’ve change my build “style” in Forza 6. I still have no idea what I’m doing. However, now that in-game cash is far easier to come by, trial and error is a lot less frustrating. $10,000 for racing slicks I might delete in a two minutes? Sure! After you win a few $1,000,000 spins, anything goes. This turbo Alpine is the most ridiculous car I’ve built so far. If you hammer on the throttle while exiting a corner, the front end lifts up and it turns into a Morgan 3-wheeler. Efficient? Of course not. Hilarious? Definitely.
My general philosophy:
1. Handling first (slicks, brakes, coils, weight reduction, tire width).
2. Any breathing room left? Bump the power up until the car is at the top of its class.
3. Test Drive.
4. Add a race (adjustable) transmission if the gear ratios no longer make sense.
5. Fine tuning - fiddle with the power and handling mods to make the vehicle as well-rounded as possible. I usually go overboard on the handling modifications and end up with a very slow car that gets eaten by the AI on the straights. Then I have to ratchet back the tire compound, weight reduction, etc. and add more POWAHHH.
Oppo, how do you build your cars? There are just so many ways to mess around in Forza 6:
Luxo-SUV drifting? Check.
Adding more turbo your Esprit Turbo? Of course.
You want a 900 horsepower TT RS5? You got it.
Rollover at 100+ on the Bathurst main straight? Carnage.
... unintentionally painting most of your cars green? Guilty as charged.
So, which iteration of Forza do you play? 4, 5, or 6? And what is your go-to strategy for car building?
![]() 09/30/2015 at 14:29 |
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4 and same as yours
![]() 09/30/2015 at 14:30 |
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4 is SO good. 5? Atrocious...
![]() 09/30/2015 at 14:31 |
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Hilarious! I love it!
My go to is to make something completely bizarre...AWD G-body Monte Carlo with a racing engine? Absolutely!!!
Then realize how crazy it was and start making something a little more controllable to recoup the funds that I blasted through so that I can have more pet projects of insanity :)
![]() 09/30/2015 at 14:34 |
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Basically the same way. For Tag Virus or Keep the It I make AWD monsters to drift at the open airfield test track. Usually with something ridiculous like my Country Squire and Datsun 510. I max the handling, brakes and tires and then get the power as high as I can get it.
![]() 09/30/2015 at 14:36 |
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I do love to have some hilarious builds for example in Fourza I had a raptor that would flip on the straights with a slight turn due to the soft suspension. was hilarious in a game of tag, not had much spare cash in 6 yet to do too many of them but will get there eventually
![]() 09/30/2015 at 14:37 |
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hahahah that sounds great, I’ve been waiting to LS swap/AWD swap something - who needs control when you have POWAHHHHH?! And I do the same thing lol.
1. Build a reasonable and inexpensive car.
2. Make money in rivals.
3. Blow all the money on something totally useless.
4. Repeat!
![]() 09/30/2015 at 14:40 |
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Back in the day before my X360 got an RROD I used to make relatively balanced car builds focusing on both straight line speed and stable handling, but without using any aero parts (only splitters on FWD cars). Quite difficult sometimes to achieve the desired stability with only suspension bits, diff and tires.
![]() 09/30/2015 at 14:41 |
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Nice!! I’ve been waiting to think of something really stupid to do with the Country Squire, and you just solved that problem for me. Its AWD drift build time.
![]() 09/30/2015 at 14:42 |
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Fourza here on an old 360.
1. Handling first (slicks, brakes, coils, weight reduction).
I don’t usually go up on tire width. I’ll also usually do the lightest flywheel I can get at this time since its cheap, adds 1xp and helps the engine rev quicker.
2. Race trans - quicker gear changes that make up for the low powahh and usually only adds 1-2 xp.
3. POWAHH - Usually start off with the muffler for sound mostly then other stuff. I also usually do a clutch at this time as well for quicker gear changes although I’ve never had a clutch slip in Fourza so I don’t know if its “necessary”.
I’ll bump everything up until I get to the top XP for the class I want to race in and adjust suspension settings.
Coils - I start by going up 100-150 pounds, slightly more in the rear normally for more rotation.
Camber - usually around 1.7 degrees negative to start
Tire psi - 32.5 psi to start
Dampers - Go about 8-9 steps stiffer on compression and about 9-10 steps stiffer on rebound
![]() 09/30/2015 at 14:42 |
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Yeahhh 6 is very hit/miss on the cash. Sometimes the prize spins are total BS. At least we can sell unwanted cars now! I find that rivals makes me more $$ than the racing does by a factor of 4 or 5
![]() 09/30/2015 at 14:45 |
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I’m finally learning to race with all the assists off and on the basis that I can’t screw up a straight line I go max power + chassis and max width for the tyres which get the power since I don’t think I can exploit the improved handling when I’m focusing on not locking the brakes up.
![]() 09/30/2015 at 14:45 |
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LSD, flywheel and brakes first. Then suspension and weight reduction. Then MOAR POWAAAA.
![]() 09/30/2015 at 14:47 |
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Awesome! I’m a tuning noob so I will probably experiment with all of these suggestions. Especially the flywheel & camber
![]() 09/30/2015 at 14:54 |
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Oh MS... I never had a RROD but I did go through 3-4 360s. My last one had this crazy disc drive issue. It opened and closed every time... as long as there was a disc in the tray. If I forgot and closed it with no disc? I was FUCKED. Time to spam the “open” button for ten minutes until magic occurs
![]() 09/30/2015 at 14:55 |
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Aaaah that’s interesting, I need to experiment with LSDs more often. I guess I should just assume that anything older than 2010 might not have one, and throw one in?
![]() 09/30/2015 at 15:10 |
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I played way too much of Horizon 1. For tooling around I just got RWD cars and gave them more power than their tires could handle and drifted up and down red rock canyon and I’d try to get from the outpost at the top to the outpost at the bottom in one continuous skill chain as fast as possible.
![]() 09/30/2015 at 15:10 |
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Question: does Forza 6 still have the affinity thing that Forza 4 had where if you race a car a few times you can upgrade parts for free? I loved that system, personally.
![]() 09/30/2015 at 15:14 |
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5 didn’t count.
![]() 09/30/2015 at 15:15 |
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Horizon is such a great concept, I had a lot of fun in FH2. It would be extremely cool to see a small open map included in Forza 6, though I bet they never would! Gotta keep those Horizon sales up.
![]() 09/30/2015 at 15:23 |
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First mod: rear tire width. It's a small bump on PI, but it took my otherwise stock 2017 Ford GT from nearly impossible to drive without drifting every turn to one of the best cars I've got.
![]() 09/30/2015 at 15:27 |
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I wrote a tuning guide you might find useful.
http://oppositelock.kinja.com/how-to-tune-a-…
![]() 09/30/2015 at 15:43 |
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FiveZah was extremely frustrating for tuning. It all felt random compared to 4. Same car, same addjustments, same setting was un-drivable in 5. The ForzaCalc spreadsheet I used to great success in four was useless in five.
I had to leave 4 behind when I went to a XB1, but I am really liking F6. I stay away from slicks (since they seem to be a higher boost to the rankings than they are to drivability) but generally follow the “improve handling and add lightness” before doing anything major to the engine.
I like to start down a full class and grade up. So pick a balanced b-class Cayman and ramp it up to a top-of-the-top A class car. I suffer on the straights, but there’s something so awesome about a late-braking-dive-bomber pass that makes me so happy
![]() 09/30/2015 at 16:00 |
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When I did seasonal events and quick play races on GT6 I err’d on the side of lightweight and plus handling over having a ton of heavy power. I haven’t really dug into tuning in Forza 6 yet. That will change if I ever get into the online.
![]() 09/30/2015 at 16:06 |
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Late braking dive bomber pass?! That’s great. I’m going to steal that expression. And yeah I do the exact same thing regarding the bumping a vehicle up one entire class. Good tip re: the slicks adding too much to the performance index, I wondered if they were really worth the $$ and index points.
![]() 09/30/2015 at 16:10 |
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Damn ok! Thanks for the link
![]() 09/30/2015 at 16:12 |
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Yeah most cars don’t need more power, especially the modern stuff.
![]() 09/30/2015 at 16:23 |
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First, start with the lowest PI car you can find.
The very first thing I do is brakes, suspension, and differential so that I can adjust alignment, final drive ratio, have LSD, and (in AWD vehicles) adjust front/rear bias. These upgrades add very little to your PI, make the car drive much better and give more tuning options for you to tweak.
Then I’ll add the Forza front bumper and rear wing because: 1. they DECREASE your PI, and 2. they give you more/adjustable downforce.
Any room left will be tire compound and lighter wheels.
If by some miracle there is some room left after that, then weight reduction and power, because both of those bump up your PI like CRAZY.
Cliffsnotes: handling/adjustability first, power dead last.
Notes-notes: I play on “unbeatable” with all assists off other than braking line and have great results with the above formula on any track that’s not an oval or Nurburgring/LeMans.
![]() 09/30/2015 at 17:03 |
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My tuning is less specific. I upgrade the handling all the way, then bump the power until its at the top of a certain class. Next, do a slight understeer/oversteer tune (depends on drivetrain) and if the gearing is off, fix it. That’s about it.
![]() 10/01/2015 at 03:24 |
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Interesting style there. I like going for lap times but not enough to throw the downforce on everything.
![]() 10/03/2015 at 13:35 |
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Hey sorry to be off topic, but I just found out about this kinja page from Oppo, how do I get in on this
![]() 10/13/2015 at 12:22 |
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Hp increases first, then brakes and tires. You can always punt them by “late” braking into a corner!