![]() 07/28/2015 at 09:56 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
I’m almost finished with this thing, but I screwed up. The last mechanic working on my car knocked a stud loose and didn't tell me. I tried to pull it back up and put a bit around it just to have it fall back into the rear wheel and brake area. How hard is it to get in there... I've gotten to the pint where I'm running out of time and even considered other means of !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!!
![]() 07/28/2015 at 10:07 |
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If I get what you’re saying right, your wheel stud is now in the parking brake. Looks like you gotta have the wheel off, then take the caliper off (two bolts), then the disc, and then hope you can get the shoes for the parking brake out of the way without pulling the axle shaft. That part may be a pain in the ass. Hopefully you can reach the springs with a needle-nose from the top and bottom. Once you’ve got the stud out and access to the back of the hub, and if the splines on it are okay, line it up in the hole, get loctite sleeve retainer or similar on it, and draw it into the hole with one of your lugnuts and some washers or similar. Be sure to put anti-seize on the threads when you do that so it doesn’t just turn.
![]() 07/28/2015 at 10:11 |
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Oy vey, I'll try to get on that this week.
![]() 07/28/2015 at 10:15 |
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“Your lug’s off!” “No it isn’t.” “What’s that, then?” “I’ve ‘ad worse.”
![]() 07/28/2015 at 10:26 |
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If the brake disc/drum combination has formed an edge removing it will be annoying. If it doesn’t any edge then it can be really easy to remove. I cannot give any mileage estimate what is enough to form one.
First remove the caliper (two bolts) and leave it hanging with zip ties or rope. Then try to remove the disc/drum. It might have some locking washers to keep in place. If you don’t have any edge the part should be easy to remove.
In case the edge has formed there is a tightening device that has to be rotated back to make room for the possible edge to go over brake shoes. Maybe in some cases there is also a mechanism in the emergency brake that could be released.
In the picture below (from ‘92-’97 models) the tightening part is J2046 and it can be accessed through a hole covered by J2092 rubber thing. I’m not sure if the picture is totally identical to yours but the basic construction is nearly same for all cars with a driving live axle. The opening is quite small and the rotating the thing will be a bit hard. Especially if it is badly rusted.
The spring J2049 is the part that is trying the keep the mechanism tightened. With two flat screwdrivers you should be able to rotate the piece that has gear like teeth. One side usually has left side threads and the other has right side threads. If you guessed the opening direction wrongly the brake starts to block the disc from turning. Then just rotate to the other direction.
![]() 07/28/2015 at 18:35 |
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The rear brake assemblies on the later panthers is super easy to work on, so you should be okay getting it out. In terms of the stud, though, there’s a chance you may not be able to get the new one in without pulling the axle shaft - fortunately, that too is pretty easy.
![]() 07/29/2015 at 01:36 |
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if it comes to that I’m just going to try my luck and get it through safety.