Fourza tuning tips???

"Connqr" (connqr)
07/17/2015 at 16:12 • Filed to: Fourza, forza 4

I am not really a fourza noob, (I’m level 44 or something) but I never really was good at tuning cars, except for ruining them for fun (aka big truck with max lift +max soft suspension). Could some of you Tuning-whiz opponauts give me some tips?

DISCUSSION (29)

Tareim - V8 powered > Connqr
07/17/2015 at 16:18

stiffer front springs = understeer / stiffer rear springs = oversteer is what I have found

Twingo Tamer - About to descend into project car hell. > Connqr
07/17/2015 at 16:19

I like to add a touch of camber for twistier tracks. Usually around -1.5 front -0.5 rear. Some have this already anyway. Other than that I only did detailed tunes on drift cars.

Connqr > Tareim - V8 powered
07/17/2015 at 16:20

OK, so max stiff on rear and max soft on front? Gotcha!

MR2_FTW - Group J's resident Stig > Connqr
07/17/2015 at 16:20

Use the “test drive” in the tuning screen to quickly see how changes effect the car. I use the telemetry with the tire temperatures to adjust camber so the whole tire is seeing even wear. As for spring rates, use the telemetry screen that shows suspension travel. If you’re easily bottoming out, up the rates a bit.

Connqr > Twingo Tamer - About to descend into project car hell.
07/17/2015 at 16:21

Ok... I will try that.

Connqr > MR2_FTW - Group J's resident Stig
07/17/2015 at 16:25

Ok. Thanks. I will try the first thing, the other two seem to be a bit above my patience level. :)

ADabOfOppo; Gone Plaid (Instructables Can Be Confusable) > Connqr
07/17/2015 at 16:26

No time to respond right now, but I would be willing to help. I need to dig around a bit to find it, but I have a rather comprehensive guide someone has compiled I can get you.

Don’t max anything though. Finite adjustment is what yields results. Change only one thing and test. Change again. Test. Repeat until you find what works.

Chuck 2(O=[][]=O)2 > Connqr
07/17/2015 at 16:26

Find a track that you’ll test all your cars on. Mine was Road Atlanta (full). I tested everything there and could actually predict my times within 1 sec just by the car’s ranks. 600 was a 1:34-1:36. 700s was a 1:29-1:31. From there you play with our suspension and gear ratios. Each car is different, but if you want a fast muscle car, go for 300-400lb spring rates, and play with the sway bars to make it understeer just a tad. Makes for a very stable ride. If the rear won’t stay planted, reduce the rear sway bar and/or take the rear tires down 2-3 psi. Camber, should be below -1 in the rear and somewhere between -1 and -2.5 in the front.

Also, just my opinion, but the first thing I do is get rid of the weight and put on the best tires. From there, improve your suspension, then go for power.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

(I tested the 300-400 spring rates because I read about the 1969 Penske-Sunoco Z28 and that’s what they run along with slight understeer)

Connqr > ADabOfOppo; Gone Plaid (Instructables Can Be Confusable)
07/17/2015 at 16:28

K thanks. It can wait a bit, I’m on vacation right now anyway, so I can’t try it out until I get back!

Connqr > Chuck 2(O=[][]=O)2
07/17/2015 at 16:30

K, thanks. I will probably go with Laguna Seca then. I like teh korkskrew!!

iSureWilll > Connqr
07/17/2015 at 16:31

Tire psi - I start around 32lbs

Stiffer springs by about 100-150 lbs.

95% front brake bias with 95% pwr to the front brakes. Keeps the car stable on the brakes.

Change the final drive in the test drive section in tuning so you’re not shifting all the time. Will only need minor adjustments on different tracks usually.

Camber - 1.7 fr and 0.5 in rear. Both negative of course.

If rwd, diff lock up around 60%

Tareim - V8 powered > Connqr
07/17/2015 at 16:33

not quite that extreme haha, I normally go 100kg (whatever the measurement is) stiffer on the rear

Connqr > iSureWilll
07/17/2015 at 16:35

Thx4 teh halpfal cuhments!!!

Connqr > Tareim - V8 powered
07/17/2015 at 16:36

Oh yeah, I forgot RWD swap, no TCS and max power!!! (Jk thanks for the help)

Chuck 2(O=[][]=O)2 > Tareim - V8 powered
07/17/2015 at 16:38

Engine placement, the driven wheels, and weight distribution also play a part in spring rates.

iSureWilll > Connqr
07/17/2015 at 16:41

Those are usually my initial adjustments. Obviously you’ll need to play around with them and see what works for you. Generally a stiffer rear end = oversteer and stiffer front = understeer.

If you want to rotate the car on the brakes, send some bias to the rear.

RoboRed "The road to hell is paved with overturned Vanduras" > Connqr
07/17/2015 at 16:41

A rule I was told for adjusting camber is that you want to adjust it to the tire temp is as evenly-distributed as possible.

DasWauto > MR2_FTW - Group J's resident Stig
07/17/2015 at 16:43

This is what I do as well. I usually stiffen the swaybars a bit and make sure the roll stiffness and spring/shock stiffness front-rear is proportional to the weight distribution.

Chuck 2(O=[][]=O)2 > Connqr
07/17/2015 at 16:43

Learn the corkscrew well. There’s a lot of fast sweepers, so max downforce. Also, placement on that track is very important, so you’ll need a sharp racing line. It’s my second favorite track and is great for beating the hell out of a car and testing your skill.

Tareim - V8 powered > Chuck 2(O=[][]=O)2
07/17/2015 at 16:48

yeah true, though I tend to go for rwd and try and get close to 50% as possible

Camshaft Chris: Skyline/McLaren/Porsche Fanboy > Connqr
07/17/2015 at 16:53

Thanks for asking this. I’ve been meaning to ask this same thing and kept forgetting, lol.

Connqr > Camshaft Chris: Skyline/McLaren/Porsche Fanboy
07/17/2015 at 17:15

Lol, you’re welcome. We should make an Oppo Tuning noon car club

Scorpio GTX1 > Connqr
07/17/2015 at 18:02

I’ve written a tutorial on this before, but I’ve never posted it here. Keep an eye out on Oppo, I’ll share it with everyone.

Corey CC97, MAZDA DPI IS STILL BAE JOESTACTIV JOESTACTIV JOESTACTIV JOESTACTIV VISIT FLORIDA RACING LIVES FOREVER IN OUR HEARTS > Connqr
07/17/2015 at 18:14

I’ve seen a lot of advice on suspension, so I’ll tell you how I do aero. If the car is understeering, I increase the downforce in the front and decrease it in the rear until the handling is neutral, and vice versa. Try to avoid extremes, because if you do max front and min rear the car will be twitchy and loose. What I’m trying to say is avoid going to min settings to fix handling problems, it will just cause more problems than it will solve. Get it as neutral as you can without doing this and if you still have problems, go to suspension. In some cases, you might end up with a higher top speed if you lose enough aero.

MR2_FTW - Group J's resident Stig > DasWauto
07/17/2015 at 18:16

Gotta be careful with sway bars though. You need to have the spring rates dialed in, and shock tuning set to fit that, then make very small changes to the bars to adjust to your personal driving style.

MR2_FTW - Group J's resident Stig > Connqr
07/17/2015 at 18:17

It takes maybe 10-15 minutes to set a car up to be significantly faster/more stable than it was. Definitely give it a try.

Connqr > Connqr
07/17/2015 at 18:52

*noob sorry, using my phone autocorrect

Camshaft Chris: Skyline/McLaren/Porsche Fanboy > Connqr
07/17/2015 at 22:18

I like that idea, lol. I think I'm gonna experiment with some of this stuff tonight. Now that I've beaten the main part of Horizon 2, I need to fire up the old 360 again and get back to some Fourza online, lol. I'll keep you posted on what I find out with my experiments!

Connqr > Camshaft Chris: Skyline/McLaren/Porsche Fanboy
07/17/2015 at 23:08

Cool, sounds good. I can invite you to my club if you like. Club tag is “pg97” I think, I will need to check after.