Happy July 4th

"Blue 2000" (blue-2000) 07/04/2015 at 18:14 • Filed to: SVT, Cobra, Terminator, Ford, Mustang

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thatguy1 > Blue 2000 07/04/2015 at 18:37

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I will own a terminator at some point in my lifetime.

04sneaky - Boxers. Blowers. Bikes. And bitches. > Blue 2000 07/04/2015 at 18:45

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Shameless self-promotion ahead...

Damn gurrrrllllll!

Mmmmm dat ass..

“This just in, American cars can indeed turn”

Mmmmm carbon....

Blue 2000 > 04sneaky - Boxers. Blowers. Bikes. And bitches. 07/04/2015 at 18:53

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Lucky, I hope to own one within 18 months. Any tips or advice for someone planning on getting one?

whoarder is tellurium > Blue 2000 07/04/2015 at 20:01

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When I see amazing Terminator stangs... hnnnggggg

04sneaky - Boxers. Blowers. Bikes. And bitches. > Blue 2000 07/04/2015 at 20:29

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Absolutely! Unlike with most cars, I’ll say that mods on these cars are actually recommended if not necessary in some situations. Below is a short list of things I’d definitely look for if buying another, or at least look at doing myself within the first year.

1. IRS bushings - Its a well known point that these cars have a severely underpowered chassis and suspension for they power they like to make. The worst of this is the IRS setup. Most owners end up swapping for a SRA (solid rear-axle), but to me that’s like putting an LS in a Ferrari simply because you personally don’t know how to work on it. The real solution is a set of bushings and modifications to the diff cradle that will prevent the flex and “hop” that eventually causes the result below. Maximum Motorsports and Full-Tilt Boogie Racing make full kits to replace the stock rubber with delrin or poly. You might see cars that say they have a diff brace, which is helpful but a bandaid to a much larger problem overall.

2. Cooling mods - These cars are factory supercharged of course, but with an old Eaton roots blower that was designed in the early 90s. This bad boy has earned the nickname “Heaton” because when boost goes up, the intake temps also skyrocket. The layman layout of the cooling system is a follows: intercooler reservoir (hot fluid) -> intercooler pump (hot fluid) -> heat exchanger in bottom of front bumper (now cool-ish fluid) -> blower and it’s respective intercooler in the intake manifold (now superheated fluid) -> back into the reservoir. Now, there are a few ways to tackle the cooling problems. First and foremost is a better heat exchanger, second would be a bigger reservoir, and third would be a better pump (factory is a brush motor unit that dies easily and is pretty weak IMO). Fourth is a “killer chiller” which taps into the A/C refrigerant and bypasses it next to the coolant to supercool it. My current setup is an AFCO dual-pass HE, a Nabsco bilge pump for the intercooler pump, and a big homemade reservoir to fit the factory location. This keeps my IATs pretty cool even while under 17lbs of boost (505rwhp on a ported Eaton).

3. Mostly stock in the power department - I say this for two reasons: The first is that because these cars make power so easily, a lot of owners slap a big blower on there with a poor tune and then sell it because it’s not what they imagined it to be. Secondly, because the car can be a bit to handle. In the day and age of 1000+ hp cars everywhere, everyone seems to think 500hp is slow. I’ll tell you first hand that it certainly is not. I do a bit of everything, so this car has seen the road course, the drag strip, and the street quite a bit. Other than the aforementioned issues, I’ve never had a problem with it. Meanwhile the big blower guys are breaking stuff left and right. I strongly believe in learning and growing with a car, not buying an Eleanor and trying to deal with it at full force. These aren’t easy cars to tame. The power and chassis have to be respected before you can even think about unlocking the potential they both hide.

I’m always up for questions or to give you my opinion if you see a car you like. My email is cody08mustanggt@gmail, so feel free to shoot me an email if you ever need help. I’ve owned my car since it was built in ‘03, so I know the rings quite a bit.

bryan40oop > Blue 2000 07/04/2015 at 22:47

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I wouldn’t mind owning one, but I hate the clutches these cars have. HATE. If I wanted a stair master I’d get a stair master.

pip bip - choose Corrour > 04sneaky - Boxers. Blowers. Bikes. And bitches. 07/05/2015 at 03:50

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“This just in, American cars can indeed turn”

just not very well.

8)

04sneaky - Boxers. Blowers. Bikes. And bitches. > bryan40oop 07/05/2015 at 08:18

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I think the Cobra is probably the last high-class sports car built with a manual, non-hydraulic clutch. The GM family all had hfeel to the pedal. My left calf is probably way stronger, but I’ll deal with it.

04sneaky - Boxers. Blowers. Bikes. And bitches. > pip bip - choose Corrour 07/05/2015 at 08:23

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I won’t lie when I say out of the box I was extremely disappointed with my Cobra. But, the potential was there. Just took a few thousand bucks and a lot of man-hours to install/setup.

We just like to give our car owners something to work towards. A great car out of the box is just no fun. Anyone can go buy a GTR. :P

pip bip - choose Corrour > 04sneaky - Boxers. Blowers. Bikes. And bitches. 07/05/2015 at 08:27

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yeah but when you spend all that money , i’d want it to be perfect

;)

04sneaky - Boxers. Blowers. Bikes. And bitches. > pip bip - choose Corrour 07/05/2015 at 13:20

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I spent 39k brand new for the car in 2004. A Z06 at the time cost ~65k and an M3 was ~55k. For the 16k difference to an M3, I could’ve finished my list of mods two-fold. It was, and still is, a bargain of a car.

pip bip - choose Corrour > 04sneaky - Boxers. Blowers. Bikes. And bitches. 07/06/2015 at 03:43

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fair point.

Blue 2000 > 04sneaky - Boxers. Blowers. Bikes. And bitches. 07/11/2015 at 19:11

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Sorry for the late reply but just how prevalent is the head tick issue? As in, is it justifible to wary of it or has it been blown out of proportion? Also, is long 5th and 6th gear pulls really that bad? I know the piston to wall clearence is about .1 but will cooling mods help stop expansion?

04sneaky - Boxers. Blowers. Bikes. And bitches. > Blue 2000 07/12/2015 at 23:02

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I’ve never heard anybody having actual issues from the head rock, so I don’t see it as that big of a deal. There are plenty of 9-thread heads floating around on SVTP if you ever want to replace them later on. Would recommend a small can upgrade if you go through all that work though. Four cams aren’t ever easy to replace.

As for 5th and 6th pulls, I Would say on a stock car that it can definitely be detrimental. The cooling on these cars from the factory is horrid, as mentioned before. Even just doing multiple pulls back to back can cause the same damage. It’s just the name of the game with the blower and cooling setup. If you’re looking for a solution, a rear coolant crossover kit is a must have first step. Then the cooling mods mentioned before to lower the IATs would obviously help as well. Water-meth might even be worth looking into, although spraying before the blower has some ill-effects on the rotors and their teflon coating.

I have dual workforce gauges that are always set to show boost, IAT2s (post blower intake temps), coolant temp, and AFR. Alarms are setup in the gauges to go off if coolant temp or IATs go too high, if AFR goes out of range, or if boost drops/spikes. These have been invaluable in both tuning and keeping anything from causing major damage in the car. When my intercooler pump went out I could tell as the IATs were super high, which kept me from getting on it and causing damage. Point is, I’d definitely invest in either a set of aeroforce/PLX gauges or a Livewire or something similar that can show you OBD data. Those will be your best ticket to keeping these semi-temperamental beasts alive.