"LeadfootYT" (leadfootyt)
05/30/2015 at 13:07 • Filed to: None
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"LeadfootYT" (leadfootyt)
05/30/2015 at 13:07 • Filed to: None | 0
| 16 |
So I might be checking this out at some point as a possible trade for my automatic E39 (142k, just dumped a ton of money into it, but it’s been keyed while the PO had it, has some cosmetic issues, needs brakes, and has an alarming drumming noise from the front wheels that I’m not particularly interested in diagnosing). Obviously this Z is not in excellent shape, but the owner was driving it daily for a year (the South is a strange, strange place...) and claims it runs strong, and has another engine for it with “after market carbs” (skeptical, but whatever) as well as miscellaneous parts.
!!! UNKNOWN CONTENT TYPE !!!
My main concern, however, is the possibility of rocker panel rust, and how to best examine that. Without kicking the rockers in, what’s the best way to examine that—and, I guess, what exactly am I looking for?
I’ve bought cars under the “How bad could it be?” principle before, and have no problem walking away from this. But if it’s in decent shape, doing the lower-it-add-wide-wheels-and-flares thing and then flipping it on eBay wouldn’t be too bad, and I could satisfy my want for a Z.
Needmoargarage
> LeadfootYT
05/30/2015 at 13:16 |
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From the pictures, it’s clear the dog leg panels are rotted and will need to be replaced. As far as the actual rocker panel, any bubbling is a sure indication that there will probably be holes in the metal if an abrasive is used. On cars of that particular era, check the doors for any sag as that can be an indication of rotted sills/rockers/structural components. Things will almost certainly be worse underneath the paint.
Additionally, you can check for past repairs using a magnet. Weak magnetic pull = body filler over the metal which could be hiding rust.
crowmolly
> LeadfootYT
05/30/2015 at 13:16 |
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A simple magnet is better than nothing. Less pull from the magnet = less metal.
Body filler detectors are out there but have gotten a bit expensive. The spot-rot one is no longer made.
If you don’t think you’d be able to handle a possible repair you can hunt down one of these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-inspec…
and return it when you are done. Poke around and have a look.
In my opinion (and I’ve worked on some real shit) you are looking for holes, big flakes, and thinned metal. Inner rockers will be a much bigger issue than outer rocker damage.
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crowmolly
> Needmoargarage
05/30/2015 at 13:18 |
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Checking the doors is a great idea! I forgot to mention that.
bhardoin
> LeadfootYT
05/30/2015 at 13:20 |
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It’s hard to tell in this picture, but those look to be the “round top” carbs that are famously “better” than the flat topped carbs that would probably have come on a ‘73. I’ve never worked with flat tops, but those round tops are from earlier cars and probably have less smog restriction devices.
As for rust, maybe bring a small magnet to check for shit body work hiding rust under the rockers? In all honesty, the fact that the floor pans are even there is a pretty good sign, and the “frame” rails look pretty alright. Make sure you check around the spare tire well also.
Also, I’d inquire/google about that AC.
Straightsix9904
> LeadfootYT
05/30/2015 at 13:22 |
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You should be able to see paint bubbling if there is a ton of rust in the quarters, you can check for a ton of bondo by getting an extending magnet from the auto parts store. You can stick it to metal and pull straight out, if it barely sticks, TON of bondo, if it pulls out the extension you know you have a descent amount of metal there.
GhostZ
> LeadfootYT
05/30/2015 at 13:25 |
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This Z is almost beyond saving. There’s a good chance there is underlying frame rust, meaning it is a ticking time bomb. The dash has a shitty plastic cover over it, so that thing (the most valuable part in the car) is probably shot also.
When it comes to the S30, if you have visible body rust it’s a good sign of the beginnings of frame rust too. Check the battery tray, the rear hatch, and under the bumpers, as those are also indicator spots for rust.
For a parts car, it would be great if you had a non-running, but clean body.
I wouldn’t spend more than $1000 on it, even if it was otherwise mechanically perfect. Yes, you could drive it, but you can’t restore it (unless you are a wizard at frame repair and welding on a unibody) and it will eventually become too unsafe to drive no matter how much money you dump into it.
A running engine doesn’t mean much with these cars, a solid, straight, rust free body means a lot more.
RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> LeadfootYT
05/30/2015 at 13:29 |
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Things survive pretty well in Greenville, I should remark. A little drier and warmer than where I am (about an hour and a half from there), and not as prone to road-salting in winter. I drive through Greenville all the time and am amazed at some of the survivors I see - last time (yesterday, actually) I saw a ‘59 Dodge.
scoob
> LeadfootYT
05/30/2015 at 13:34 |
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Hey, good to see you’re still on here. What happened to the 6 Series?
Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
> LeadfootYT
05/30/2015 at 13:35 |
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Also check under the front fenders for accident damage, ie look up above the front wheel where the frame should hit the fender, the front locating arm (the one connected to the frame rail with a rubber bushing, this is a good place for rust. If the floor pans are clean, and they look it, and the front uni-body rails are good their is enough to save.
This is probably more a race/track car condition than a restore to original. The other place for rust is under the rear deck lid. Motorsport Auto sells all these body panels and they can be replaced. This one looks about the same as my dads race car and it’s still going strong. I would be at <$2000 cash with the rocker panel rust. The 73’s have the lower compression cylinder head, E88 I think.
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LeadfootYT
> scoob
05/30/2015 at 13:51 |
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Hey!
Yeah, I lurk more now with all the work I’ve been doing. I still have the 6, with no plans for that to change! I also have an E39 530i (pictured) and the aforementioned automatic 530i.
The Sixer hasn’t changed much, except for the wheels (16x8 RS reps):
You still in the NYC area?
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LeadfootYT
> GhostZ
05/30/2015 at 13:53 |
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That’s the feeling I was getting, especially with the lower quarter panel rust. Thanks a ton!
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LeadfootYT
> RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
05/30/2015 at 13:55 |
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Yeah, that was the first thing I noticed when I moved down here. I’m from Vermont originally, so pulling out of the driveway in February and seeing a ‘68 Corvette drive past (plus a couple great patina’d, driver 2002s now and again) was a shock.
Where are you located?
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scoob
> LeadfootYT
05/30/2015 at 13:59 |
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Very nice cars! They’re beautiful. Yeah, I’m still in NYC. Just finished my first year of college too hehe.
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RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> LeadfootYT
05/30/2015 at 14:00 |
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I’m in western NC. Soggy enough that a lot of things that should survive don’t, unless I get down the mountain along I40 into the NC Piedmont. Still loads better than the rust belt for old car sightings, but not as good as SC or (to some extent) north GA.
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LeadfootYT
> scoob
06/01/2015 at 17:26 |
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Thanks! Where you going to school? I should’ve just been finishing that (had a deposit on Champlain College in Burlington, VT), but starting last summer, I found a lot of success in automotive videography, and so I’ve been sticking with that. Living down in South Carolina right now, but I’ll be back up north (VT) in the fall.
Are you in that OppositeTalk Facebook group?
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scoob
> LeadfootYT
06/01/2015 at 23:02 |
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I’m still figuring out what I want to do to (hopefully) live my car dreams so I’m not set on my major/school choices, although I will be staying with the CUNY system (it’s cheap :P) Glad to hear you’re doing well!
And no, I deactivated my Facebook a while ago. Oppo is kind of the only way to talk to me lol.