What Did The Ancient Roman Condiment Known As Garum Taste Like?

"Michael Ballaban" (ballaban)
04/26/2015 at 09:23 • Filed to: Do As The Romans Do, Foodlopnik

There once was a condiment completely beloved by the Western world, but today, it has almost completely vanished. It was slathered on everything, and everyone went nuts over it. You might be thinking it’s gone, but it isn’t. You can still get garum, sort of. If you try really hard, or are willing to pay for it.

You might not’ve heard of garum before, but it was hugely important 2000 years ago. Just how important, I’ll let !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! explain, because it’s Sunday:

The manufacture and export of garum was an element of the prosperity of coastal Greek emporia from the Ligurian coast of Gaul to the coast of Hispania Baetica, and perhaps an impetus for Roman penetration of these coastal regions. !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! Amphorae recovered from shipwreck sites off Ansérune and Agde bear the traces of the garum they contained and date as early as the 5th century BC. In the ruins of Pompeii, jars were even found containg kosher garum , !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! suggesting an equal popularity among Roman Jews.

Each port had its own traditional recipe, but by the time of Augustus, Romans considered the best to be garum from Cartagena and Gades in Baetica. This product was called garum sociorum , “garum of the allies”. !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! The ruins of a garum factory remain at the Baetian site of !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! (in present-day !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! ) and !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! ( !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! ). Garum was a major export product from !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! to Rome, and gained the !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! a certain amount of prestige. The garum of !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! (in present-day Portugal) was also highly prized in Rome, and was shipped directly from the harbour of Lacobriga ( !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! ). A former Roman garum factory can be visited in the Baixa area of central !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! . !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! Fossae Marianae in !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! , located on the southern tip of present-day France, served as a distribution hub for Western Europe, including Gaul, !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! , and !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! . !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!!

So it was kind of a big deal. And remember this is a long time ago, so it’s not like there was mass globalization as you see it now, for every little thing under the sun. But everyone in the Empire wanted garum.

Garum fell by the wayside as the Roman Empire collapsed, however. And was nearly forgotten, for a few reasons as !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! explains:

So how did something so savory, and nutritious, and widespread just disappear? Archaeologist Claudio Giardino said that it comes down to two things: first off, taxes.

“In the Roman times, salt was a cheap material,” he says. “When the Roman Empire collapsed, they put taxes on the salt. And because of these taxes, it became difficult to produce garum .”

And the collapse of the Roman Empire created another problem: pirates.

“The pirates started destroying the cities and the industries nearby the coast. You could be killed any moment by the pirates, without the protection of the Romans,” Giardino says.

So sad, for garum.

But what if you want to eat like the Ancient Romans did? What if you wanted just a small taste of that old-timey flavor?

Good news! You can still buy garum. Sort of. While garum drastically declined in popularity, it hasn’t completely ceased to exist. A modern descendent of garum is still made in a little tiny corner of southern Italy, and is known as Colatura di Alici de Cetara. That’s its fancy name, mind you, but in Italian it just really means “anchovy sauce from Cetara,” Cetara being the little village on the Amalfi Coast where it’s still made.

But if you go to Cetara, as I did a few weeks ago, they actually still call it garum! Most of the restaurants there have it in some form on the menu, and there are a bunch of stores that sell it. Though, depending on where you live, it’s not exactly easy to get to Cetara. First, it tends to involve somehow getting to Naples, Italy, then a train to Sorrento, then a bus to Amalfi, then another bus to Salerno, but you’ll ask to be let off at Cetara and everyone will look at you like you have three heads because what sort of tourist wants to get off at some random little fishing village???

(Or you can rent a car and drive, but even I’ll admit that’s a little nuts.)

But if you do make it there, the garum is delicious, and it costs about $8 a bottle.

OR, you can buy it on !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! (seriously, Amazon has everything) for about $17/bottle. Small bottle though, so just be aware it is kinda pricey.

So what does it taste like? Well, don’t be put off by the fishy scent, as it doesn’t actually taste much like fish. To understand what it tastes like, just remember that Ancient Romans didn’t have a lot of spices, and most of their taste buds were destroyed by lead anyway. So it mostly tastes like a combination of salt and MSG. I know, I know, MSG doesn’t have a “flavor” on its own, but it enhances the taste of whatever it’s in. And, weirdly enough, garum is chock full of naturally occurring MSG, supposedly.

So, mostly salt, and a slight savory taste as well.

If you manage to get your hands on some modern garum, do as the locals do today and mix it with some spaghetti, chili oil, fresh garlic, and a dash of parsley. Add in a little of the pasta water so all the flavor a bind together.

The taste is simply divine, and quite unlike anything else in the world when it all comes together.

Photo credit: Me!

DISCUSSION (100)

$kaycog > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 09:35

Garum is a fermented fish sauce. It sounds nasty. I’ll stick to ketchup.

Justin Hughes > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 09:39

I’ll bet, with a bit of work, I could track down some folks in the SCA who hand make the stuff themselves. A sort of a niche interest within a niche interest, but not impossible.

505Turbeaux > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 09:44

so just an old timey take on Fish Sauce? I am into that. BRB cutting some frites right now...

LongbowMkII > $kaycog
04/26/2015 at 09:44

Fermentation is the best!

*opens beer*

$kaycog > LongbowMkII
04/26/2015 at 09:48

Beer..........yes. Fish..........no.

Flat Six > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 09:55

Kinja'd!!!

Does it taste similar to Vietnamese fish sauce? Once you get to used to the smell it makes things taste really savory.

Jason Torchinsky > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 10:42

I’ve always wondered about this. Save me some dregs when I come to NYC, Mike!

TailLightDetective > $kaycog
04/26/2015 at 10:53

Fermented fish...god no!

Ltd783 > $kaycog
04/26/2015 at 10:59

Worcestershire sauce is also basically a fermented fish sauce, and soy sauce is a fermented bean sauce. A lot of things are better before you know exactly what they are; we’ll call it the Hot Dog Effect.

Dubblewhopper > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 10:59

I have to order some. Sounds delicious to me.

$kaycog > Ltd783
04/26/2015 at 11:02

HDE..........Hot Dog Effect. That has a ring to it.

shitheelandtoe > $kaycog
04/26/2015 at 11:03

I’ll try some Garum-in my GPS unit.

$kaycog > shitheelandtoe
04/26/2015 at 11:04

Let us know how that works out.

shitheelandtoe > $kaycog
04/26/2015 at 11:06

If possible, make a legal U turn.

SetteOtto > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 11:17

There's also a food purveyor in The Bronx called Gustiamo, I believe they sell Colatura. I get their emails and have seen it mentioned.

kvetcha > $kaycog
04/26/2015 at 11:18

I’ve got some bad news about Thai and Vietnamese food...

Union of Smog Techs of CA > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 11:18

Arch Duke Maxyenko, Shit Talk Extraordinaire > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 11:19

Ah takes me back to freshman year Latin....

Daniel > Ltd783
04/26/2015 at 11:26

Pasteurized, curdled cow lactation, then left for bacteria to eat for varying time.

More commonly known as cheese.

Dream Theater of the Absurd > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 11:28

A modern descendent of garum is still made in a little tiny corner of southern Italy, and is known as Colatura di Alici de Cetara. That’s its fancy name, mind you, but in Italian it just really means “fish sauce from Cetara,” Cetara being the little village on the Amalfi Coast where it’s still made.

Interesting. So is it anything like Asian fish sauce? Just curious...

Dream Theater of the Absurd > $kaycog
04/26/2015 at 11:29

Since you obviously don’t like fermented stuff, can we assume you’ll also turn up your nose at things like beer and wine?

Taybrego31 > $kaycog
04/26/2015 at 11:39

Ketchup was derived from a Chinese fermented fish sauce. So give credit where credit is due. Fish sauce makes pretty much everything better!

$kaycog > Dream Theater of the Absurd
04/26/2015 at 11:43

I don’t turn my nose up at fermented “stuff”................just fish. I don’t even really like fish unfermented.

herdgunner > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 11:46

I had that in Vietnam forty-five years ago. Those dead taste buds and destroyed olfactory nerves are still with me after all these years

Cé hé sin > $kaycog
04/26/2015 at 11:51

Ah, but try it first! You might like it.

Cé hé sin > TailLightDetective
04/26/2015 at 11:53

Surströmming? I’ve tried that. Indescribable.

feather-throttle-not-hair > $kaycog
04/26/2015 at 11:59

I’m not a big fish person either, but Thai and Vietnamese food can be really tasty, and pretty much all of it contains fermented fish sauce.

mk1gti > $kaycog
04/26/2015 at 12:04

I’ll stick to Vietnamese fish sauce, now there’s some fish sauce!

mk1gti > Flat Six
04/26/2015 at 12:06

Three crabs is the best of these. Yumyum!

$kaycog > Cé hé sin
04/26/2015 at 12:06

Given the chance, I will.

TailLightDetective > Cé hé sin
04/26/2015 at 12:08

I definitely need to give it a shot.

Chamois Davis JR. > $kaycog
04/26/2015 at 12:18

The origins of ketchup are the fish sauces of Southeast Asia! A common name for many of them is “Kecap”. The ketchup we all know is what happened when the English tried to make their own version of these sauces using vegetables instead of fish. Bless their hearts.

c21222324 > Flat Six
04/26/2015 at 12:32

it smells like dry dog food

or is it just my opinion?

Chasaboo > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 12:41

Is there a vegan version?

For Sweden > $kaycog
04/26/2015 at 12:43

Boooooooooooooo

For Sweden > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 12:46

Should this have a Kosherlopnik or a Jewlopnik tag?

Kaufmania: Mark Webber's Stunt Double > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 12:48

Kinja'd!!!

So this is garum?

fifthtimeisthecharm > $kaycog
04/26/2015 at 12:48

Thai food is crazy with the fish sauce. Seriously, it’s in everything.

Kaufmania: Mark Webber's Stunt Double > $kaycog
04/26/2015 at 12:49

Kethup is fucking gross. I’ll stick to duke’s mayo.

Kaufmania: Mark Webber's Stunt Double > Flat Six
04/26/2015 at 12:49

SQUID BRAND FTW!!!

$kaycog > For Sweden
04/26/2015 at 12:51

Kinja'd!!!

Flat Six > c21222324
04/26/2015 at 12:52

Yes, I agree, some dog food smells like that - dogs need tasty food too!

Flat Six > Kaufmania: Mark Webber's Stunt Double
04/26/2015 at 12:53

I use squid brand too :)

Flat Six > mk1gti
04/26/2015 at 12:54

Have you tried all of them? I’ll try three crabs next time!

Kaufmania: Mark Webber's Stunt Double > mk1gti
04/26/2015 at 12:56

Squid brand

Kaufmania: Mark Webber's Stunt Double > c21222324
04/26/2015 at 12:56

That’s just like your opinion man.

Kaufmania: Mark Webber's Stunt Double > For Sweden
04/26/2015 at 12:58

Anything from the Torch vault.

fifthtimeisthecharm > TailLightDetective
04/26/2015 at 12:59

I almost sympathy-puked.

ToastedTires > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 12:59

The chick Fil a sauce of the ancient world!

Michael Ballaban > Jason Torchinsky
04/26/2015 at 13:00

Consider dregs SAVED. Jalopasta night!

Michael Ballaban > For Sweden
04/26/2015 at 13:01

No.

For Sweden > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 13:07

Cé hé sin > TailLightDetective
04/26/2015 at 13:12

You’ll only do it once. Trust me.

Gavin S. > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 13:16

Isn’t that a cuss word on Firefly?

Xenti > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 13:22

So.....it’s basically the stuff that’s a staple of every Asian person’s kitchen and widly available at any grocer we go to.

alan666 > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 13:24

What is it like on chips?

LoremIpsum010101 > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 13:26

Does it taste anything like SE Asian fish sauce? That is on every table in Saigon, and goes great on rice noodles with a bit of chili and cilantro/mint as well!

Groagun > $kaycog
04/26/2015 at 13:42

I have been disappointed by the serious lack of good and creative GIFS lately around these parts. This, for whatever reason just struck me as funny.

SP-202LOFI > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 13:45

I bet it tastes like this...

Kinja'd!!!

$kaycog > Groagun
04/26/2015 at 13:49

Me too. I use it a lot.

Michael Ballaban > For Sweden
04/26/2015 at 13:57

To further clarify, as I was on my phone at the time, if anything it should have the Italopnik tag!

gearboxtrouble > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 13:59

You lost me at fish sauce. I will continue to preach that there is no better condiment to anything than mayo with a little hot sauce.

Frank Grimes > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 14:11

so its fish sauce. already have this stuff it works great in asian dishes. smells like death by drowning in rotten fish heads but tastes great when used. you only need a little bit.

Kinja'd!!!

mk1gti > Flat Six
04/26/2015 at 14:14

Yeah, tried all three, look up reviews on 3 crabs, that’s why I use that. There are others but 3 crabs is easiest to find.

SchwarzeEwigkt > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 14:41

“First, it tends to involve somehow getting to Naples, Italy, then a train to Sorrento, then a bus to Amalfi, then another bus to Salerno...”

Oh darn. You mean I’d have to go to those places?

zipfuel > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 14:51

As a childhood Asterix fan I think I have to go spend $17 on fermented fish sauce from Amazon BRB

FN-2187 > SchwarzeEwigkt
04/26/2015 at 15:01

I nearly spat out my drink, really wasn’t expecting the bit about it being on amazon

JACKSONSPEED > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 15:10

Why is this on Jalopnik?

madmolf > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 15:24

your description makes it very similar to Nuoc Mam , the Vietnamese sauce. I’d be interested by a follow up with some comparisons between Garum and other salty, MSG filled sauces from around the world. I’d be surprised if Japan hasn’t some sort of salted/umami Dashi sauce as well.

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Charles Engasser > Ltd783
04/26/2015 at 16:06

A lot of Soy sauce isn’t fermented anything, particularly anything in those little packets. Fake Soy Sauces take about 3 days to make (vs months) and involve (amongst other things) boiling grains and/or soybeans in hydrocloric acid, and then adding a fuck load of artificial colors and flavors (including caramel color and corn syrup). Basic Soy Sauce ingredients should be just Water, wheat, soybeans, and salt. Not this:

Kinja'd!!!

Charles Engasser > $kaycog
04/26/2015 at 16:09

If you eat anything Asian, you’ve been eating fish sauce and/or oyster sauce whether you know it or not. They are ubiquitous ingredients in almost all Asian food. And Ketchup used to also include fermented anchovies.

HG_Pennypacker > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 16:14

Wait, I thought more taxes solved everything?

HG_Pennypacker > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 16:17

So it’s basically like Vietnamese fish sauce?

945T > Ltd783
04/26/2015 at 16:25

Two things:

1) I am stealing the term “Hotdog effect”

2) Who the hell found a 7 year old drum of fish and decided that hey, let’s taste this and see if we get sick, decided it was tasty and began selling it.

toecutter (so grey, I gotta wear shades) > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 16:27

Nam pla or Nuoc Nam are alternative choices.

stre > SchwarzeEwigkt
04/26/2015 at 16:45

Right? Seems like an excuse to return to the Amalfi Coast to me.

LongbowMkII > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 16:58

Clearly, this falls under the Jelopnic sub-blog. Picnic supplies tag.

TeamProBono > Jason Torchinsky
04/26/2015 at 17:35

I’m older than most of you. I’ve traveled in Greece and Italy (even Israel). I’ve never had garum. Your description sounds like instant high blood pressure. I’ve had spectacularly great food many times that would have been spoiled by the addition of anything. I’ll pass. (BTW: learn to cook. It’s actually not very difficult and the food you make will often surpass the same food in a restaurant.)

TeamProBono > Flat Six
04/26/2015 at 17:40

I’ve never liked the smell of dog food, no matter how many years I had my dog. I should have trained him to scoop out his own meals. Although, giving a dog access to an entire bag of kibble might not be the best idea.

Justin Hughes > Justin Hughes
04/26/2015 at 18:14

I was mistaken. I just got home from a SCAdian friend’s house. She has some, made by another fellow SCAdian. It wasn’t nearly as hard to track down as I thought.

Prettyboy Superdumb > $kaycog
04/26/2015 at 18:26

Wait till you hear that fermented fish sauce is an ingredient in most of the thai food you’ve eaten in your life.

Unless you don’t like thai food, then you’re just a monster.

TwoScoopsOfPig > $kaycog
04/26/2015 at 18:27

You may not realize what you're saying...

J R in WV > Michael Ballaban
04/26/2015 at 18:37

I’m a big history buff, and a big cooking buff, so I have some opinions here.

My first opinion is that this is almost exactly like the salty anchovy sauce made all over SE Asia, Thailand, Vietnam, etc. They call it fish sauce, and it is made of water, anchovies, and salt. I’ve seen a film about divers searching for Roman artifacts, who made garum in a bucket on the forecastle of their boat.

Now, if you hate fish, it may not be for you. But I cook in every ethnicity of cooking I can, and I use Thai fish sauce in all kinds of dishes, from chicken and dumplings to pasta with sauce. It makes any dinner taste richer, it’s pretty much all natural, and it works with everything but dessert.

There is nothing nasty about it, unless you hate all kinds of fish, from trout or salmon to crab or lobster. Obviously if you’re allergic to many kinds of seafood, give it a pass. Else, try it out. A quart costs three bucks at any Asian mart.