Frozen Brakes Help Oppo!!!!

"JR1" (type35bugatti) 03/26/2014 at 12:14 • Filed to: Lincoln Capri, Help, Oppositelock

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For those who do not know I decided to endeavor upon the most basic of restorations on this 1959 Lincoln Capri. The car weighs well over 5,000 pounds and has been sitting in the mud for over 20 years now. During that time inevitably the drum brakes located up on the car. Now I have changed brakes before, a lot of times actually, however I have never messed with drum brakes. I know the basics of how they work but that is about all I know. With some help I am planning to put the car up on some jacks and hopefully unlock the drum brakes. I am not sure how to do this though and would love some help. If anyone knows how to unfreeze the brakes or can direct me to a good video on how to do it that would be greatly appreciated. And for the record we already tried pulling it out with a 2000 F150. Could not move the car one inch.

TLDR: I need help, if you could tell me how to unlock frozen drum brakes that have been sitting for 20 years that would be fantastic.

Thanks guys here are a few more pictures for your time!

Disclaimer: These are older pictures taken before I chopped down all the bushes!

If you stayed this far you much really want to help me so here is Porsche emblem for your time!

505Turbeaux > JR1 03/26/2014 at 12:17

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pull the wheels off and smack them with a big fuggin hammer all around and see if that loosens em up first.

JR1 > 505Turbeaux 03/26/2014 at 12:18

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Excellent advise! I love hitting things with a hammer!

puddler > JR1 03/26/2014 at 12:19

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pull the shoes out & put it back together until you get it to where you can work on it. gonna need a hammer. maybe a heat-wrench.

Laird Andrew Neby Bradleigh > 505Turbeaux 03/26/2014 at 12:19

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Hehe, I was just about to say "hit them with hammer, if that don't work get a bigger hammer and some WD-40" :)

JR1 > puddler 03/26/2014 at 12:20

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Ok thanks I will try that.

puddler > JR1 03/26/2014 at 12:22

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I assumed you know not to press the pedal without shoes in, I doubt there's any fluid or room for the wheel cylinders to actuate, but popping the pistons out of the wheel cylinders is never a good idea.

crowmolly > JR1 03/26/2014 at 12:23

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Before I begin:

You won't know the age of the brake shoes and chances are they are old. So there is a good chance that asbestos will be present. Wear a proper mask when servicing it.

This will be a real bitch as it's down in the weeds. If you are very careful and can get the car in the air to the point where it is safe you can spray some penetrating oil into the brake system to start loosening things up. Then maybe a breaker bar on a lugnut or make a plate that mounts on a few lugnuts that you can pry against. If you can get the wheel off you can haul off on the drums with a hammer but don't do it while you are under the car.

But to be completely honest this thing should be dragged out of the weeds by a tow truck and then put somewhere on stable ground. Jacking it in the air off of a mud surface and whacking it with a hammer is very sketchy IMO.

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > JR1 03/26/2014 at 12:23

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505Turbeaux is correct. A lot of the time, drums don't have any further retaining other than the lugs, so you can even knock them off at that time. If they use screws, then PB Blaster and a hand impact driver are your best bets - though you might not have the latter.

One thing not addressed is how to lift the car out of the soft earth to remove the wheels - that's where you use a piece of 1/2-3/4" plywood you don't care about anymore and put it under a floor jack. Usually, the plywood can't take the weight of the wheels, but will only collapse far enough for the frame of the jack to sit down, then it's fine - perfectly stable.

You don't want a bottle jack, standard car jack, or high-lift, because they won't get low enough.

Nibbles > JR1 03/26/2014 at 12:24

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As someone with a lot of experience manhandling drum brakes, I'll second pretty much everyone here with tons of PB blaster (WD-40 works if you're in a pinch) and a hammer. I tend to use a deadblow or rubber mallet as to not damage the iron.

Arch Duke Maxyenko, Shit Talk Extraordinaire > JR1 03/26/2014 at 12:25

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You're going to want to find the adjuster on the back of the drums and turn them to loosen them.

Then bust out your torch and large hammer to remove the drums themselves. After a few hours of yelling and cursing drum brakes they will come off.

Your next step is to remove the springs, DON'T loose them as they fly off, use your eyes to stop their mid-flight progress. After sufficient and profuse bleeding, use some pillars to turn the holders that hold the springs that hold the shoes in place. There will be more blood.

Then remove the wheel cylinder.

The rebuilding is the reverse of this process.

Oh, BTW those brakes are filled with Asbestoses, so have fun with the mesothelioma!

jariten1781 > JR1 03/26/2014 at 12:26

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Flush it with water for a long while, attempt to pry. Bang around with a hammer, attempt to pry. Heat it then hammer, attempt to pry. Cut them up and get new brakes once you get frustrated.

crowmolly > Nibbles 03/26/2014 at 12:33

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I can tell that you have experience working on rusty shit because of your preference in penetrating oil. WD40 works on mild stuff but it's the .22 caliber among its peers.

OtherBarry > JR1 03/26/2014 at 12:36

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Get it in the air and put some boards under the tires. Even that underpowered ford would be able to pull if it wasn't in the ruts. Personally I would take the wheels off and cut the drums off via torch or grinder.

quarterlifecrisis > puddler 03/26/2014 at 12:37

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I'm gonna go out on a limb and say this thing is probably going to need new wheel cylinders....still good advice, but I would wager that after 20 sedentary years, exposed to the elements, those are on the list of replacement parts.

Nibbles > crowmolly 03/26/2014 at 12:40

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Lol. I miss my AeroKroil actually, but it's ever so expensive these days. That shit would loosen everything.

crowmolly > Nibbles 03/26/2014 at 12:43

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I did not mention Kroil because I just HAD to see if you'd throw it out there! LOL.

That stuff is easily the best; I bought some special spray and squirt bottles just to be able to use it anywhere. Used to get the gallon cans from Eastwood.

KurtAKX > JR1 03/26/2014 at 12:46

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The fronts will be easier for you. you can pull off the dust cap for the wheel bearings in the center, and remove the cotter pin and castellated nut.

Then you can pull the whole drum straight off the front spindle. I suspect you'll still have to hammer it off, but you can get things back to rolling condition much quicker if you pull the drums off.

These are in your future.

Nibbles > crowmolly 03/26/2014 at 12:47

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Yeah I need to find somewhere that sells it for less than $20 per can. I'm starting to get into the parts on my 900 that haven't been touched since it was assembled, and I needs that shit, man. I needs it

STREPITUS > JR1 03/26/2014 at 12:48

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How did you find that thing? Looks like its a random car sitting in the middle of the woods!

Also, please keep us updated on the resto! I'd love to follow this project. I love those slant headlight Lincolns.

offroadkarter > JR1 03/26/2014 at 13:17

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Okay, the way I see it you have 3 options.

1. Heat + Hammer: It might release itself

2. Heat + Hammer + remove the brakes all together

3. Get something bigger and just pull it out as is

JR1 > Nibbles 03/26/2014 at 13:25

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So what exactly do I hit with the hammer? Do I simply hit the drum itself? And if I use PB blaster do I have to disassemble the drum to get to the interior pads?

The WB > JR1 03/26/2014 at 13:27

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I'd bet money your wheel cylinders are locked up totally, and your brake fluid is mostly water. I wouldn't worry about saving them.

There is an adjuster on most brake drums in the bottom you should be able to back off the shoe pressure with. You just put the drum brake spoon in and rotate it inside. I don't know if they'll actually let go, though, when I restored my Mustang I had to destroy the drums with a grinder and hammer to get them off.

JR1 > quarterlifecrisis 03/26/2014 at 13:28

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Right now I just want the car to move in neutral I will worry about repairing the brakes later. So will I need a new cylinder if I just want to get the car moving in neutral?

JR1 > STREPITUS 03/26/2014 at 13:32

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Here is the original article I wrote about it and then one about the cars interior, go ahead and take a look! It explains everything.

http://oppositelock.jalopnik.com/lincoln-in-the…

http://oppositelock.jalopnik.com/interior-of-th…

JR1 > Arch Duke Maxyenko, Shit Talk Extraordinaire 03/26/2014 at 13:33

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So the hammer idea won't work if I simply want to free the brakes and get the car into neutral so it rolls freely?

JR1 > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 03/26/2014 at 13:35

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Thanks for the advice I will look into it!

Arch Duke Maxyenko, Shit Talk Extraordinaire > JR1 03/26/2014 at 13:37

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Nope, just find the adjuster and free them up that way.

JR1 > The WB 03/26/2014 at 13:39

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I am not so worried about saving the brakes right now I just want to get the rolling in neutral. So in theory if the adjuster releases the pressure on the brakes will that be all I have to do for now to get the car rolling in neutral?

MontegoMan562 is a Capri RS Owner > Nibbles 03/26/2014 at 13:49

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What is this AeroKroil and how do i get it.

I'm sure there are some moments I will need it on the Montego!

Nibbles > JR1 03/26/2014 at 13:53

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For health's sake use a respirator, or at least a mask. Safety goggles and gloves are also a must have. Do not do this unless the car is solidly and safely in the air. Do not put yourself in danger by attempting to hammer the drum outward from underneath the car or inside the wheel well. Once you get the lugs and wheel off (the blaster and mallet can help with this as well), spray blaster on the lugs into the drum. If you can, reach behind the drum and spray the front and rear quarters (where the pads reside) on the interior edge of the drum. Let it penetrate for a few minutes. Start hammering near the drum edges at the pad locations to assist the blaster in penetration. If you can get some horizontal movement, even if it's 1/4 inch, then you can start wiggling the drum off. Use a back-and-forth method. Start by pulling the front part of the drum whilst simultaneously pushing the rear part inward, then reverse the process. Eventually the drum will wiggle itself free from the pads, then the studs. If these don't work, you'll want to heat it and/or purchase/rent/fabricate a drum extractor.

Do not hammer near the studs. You do not want to risk whacking a stud and causing more damage. EDIT: Yes, you'll still need to remove the drum to access/replace the shoes and their components.

Nibbles > MontegoMan562 is a Capri RS Owner 03/26/2014 at 14:03

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AeroKroil is arguably the best penetrating lubricant ever created, ever. Amazon sells it for about $20 per can. It's pricey but worth its weight in gold. If you find a reliable place that sells it cheaper (I used to get it for about 12 bucks ea) please let me know plzkthx

crowmolly > MontegoMan562 is a Capri RS Owner 03/26/2014 at 14:11

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It's on Amazon and at other places, but like Nibbles said, it's around $20+ per can. When you are looking at a stuck fastener and think "Wow, if I strip or break those threads I'm going to be fucked on a galactic scale" then accept no substitute.

JR1 > Nibbles 03/26/2014 at 14:15

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Thanks for the advice hopefully I will be able to get these damn things free this weekend, sounds like a hell of a pain in the ass but it should be worth it once they free up!

Nibbles > JR1 03/26/2014 at 14:18

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Seized drums are, by and large, the biggest pain in the ass jobs I ever do. Once the drums are off, familiarize yourself with the locations of all the interior components - shoes, retainers, springs, cylinders, etc etc etc. Take pictures before, during and after disassembly to assist with the reassembly process because they can be confusing summbitches. Thank me later.

JR1 > Nibbles 03/26/2014 at 14:19

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I am sure I will be thanking you again and again as I do it think weekend!

quarterlifecrisis > JR1 03/26/2014 at 14:47

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Nope, beat the hell out of it. just get the shoes off of the drum. My point was merely that they'll need replaced regardless, so I wouldn't worry about popping the pistons out of the cylinders.

MontegoMan562 is a Capri RS Owner > Nibbles 03/26/2014 at 15:09

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hahaha will let u kno if i find it!

The WB > JR1 03/26/2014 at 15:55

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I don't make any guarantees, since it could be siezed wheel bearings (unlikely) but it's possible they are only stuck becacuse of the brake shoes being stuck to the drum. At any rate, just rolling the adjusters back won't hurt anything. If you can jack each wheel up individually you ought to be able to try and spin the wheel by hand to see if it does anything while you play with the adjuster.

Destructive Tester > JR1 03/26/2014 at 23:09

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WWJD?

What Would Jezza Do?

JoelA237 > JR1 03/27/2014 at 04:56

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It didn't move because you didn't use enough skinny pedal!! Get a real snatch strap, dont use a chain.. YANK that big old girl out of there, drag it up to dry ground.. Dont be all ginger with it, just find a nice solid place to mount the strap (that bumper looks like a good idea but no.. it will bend to shit if you yank on it.. FRAME yank.. HARD