![]() 03/17/2014 at 12:03 • Filed to: rust test | ![]() | ![]() |
Some of you may remember my ordeal with the floor on my !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! last summer.
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After welding the new plates in and applying seam sealer, I painted it with !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! , a rust preventative coating similar to POR-15, but better. Then I did what everybody warned me against and used a spray undercoating.
"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so."
-Douglas Adams
Now I'm pretty diligent with keeping my car clean through the winter, using a touchless car wash that also sprays the undercarriage. Well, after what was hopefully the last winter wash I decided to take a look underneath and see how my repairs were holding up.
"Lets just take a gander here.....
..."
the next few days.
Now my potential solution. I've used this !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! before when installing my wheel well liner 2 years ago, and noticed that it has not been affected in the slightest by road salt. I contacted the company and they informed me they have a brush grade version sold as a roof repair/sealant called " !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! ", though they wouldn't say if it would withstand my proposed application. So I am performing an experiment to test both Through the Roof's and Miracle Paint's resistance to rust.
As visible in the lead picture I have three test pieces.
small piece of untreated steel
small piece coated in Miracle Paint
larger piece, half of which is coated in MP, then about two thirds covered in Through the Roof, with the bottom third exposed steel
I have them in a small tub and will be applying a water and rock salt mixture every few days. I'll do updates periodically, and if anyone has suggestions of any kind please let me know.
![]() 03/17/2014 at 12:09 |
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I would have thought that Miracle Paint would've been enough all on its own.
![]() 03/17/2014 at 12:21 |
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I frequent gravel roads a bit, so I want something to prevent the MP from chipping. As long as this stuff doesn't get eaten by salt it will be a perfect barrier, and it will never come off unless you grind it off.
![]() 03/17/2014 at 12:25 |
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Interesting. I am curious how this will work out.
![]() 03/17/2014 at 12:52 |
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Make sure you take them out of the saline mix, or let it evaporate completely before refills, because you need oxygen for rust.
![]() 03/17/2014 at 12:53 |
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My bro has a 1984 Landcruiser that sees a little road salt every year... and it has NO rust. From Day 1, he has sprayed the undercarriage and inside every panel and crevice with Fluid Film every year. It totally 100% works to keep moisture and oxygen away from the metal's surface. I've done it to every car I've owned and I never get rust. It STOPS existing rust from getting worse too. Noxudol is an interesting option too... I'm thinking of switching. POR15 has to be PERFECTLY applied with all the steps or it doesn't work. Waxy/Oily stuff works.
![]() 03/17/2014 at 13:36 |
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Just did that. :)
![]() 03/17/2014 at 13:38 |
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I was looking at products like that, but I'm trying to avoid reapplying something every year. We'll see how this goes.
![]() 05/05/2014 at 19:50 |
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Good luck. I just ordered a case of Amsoil HD metal protectant and am going to give my truck a good spray now and then twice every winter. I don't really trust these spray and forget solutions.
![]() 05/07/2014 at 14:00 |
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IF anything you use gets a small pinhole in it you will get more rust.
IF you use anything that hardens too much it will get pitted and/or cracked by road debris and rock impacts, once again leading to more rust formation.
Here is what I did to one of the things most likely to get corroded and rusted, a battery tray. It is on a mower/garden tractor, but the same process should work on anything.
First I thoroughly neutralized any remaining battery acid, washed it with soap and hot water and then sanded off all of the old paint on the surface. In your case clean and remove any rust and maybe use some rust convertor where you cannot to help stop the rust.
I then used automotive quality self etching primer and then a primer/sealer over the bare metal.
I followed this up with a couple of thick coats of ZEP Rubberized Undercoating (spray can), but any good name brand should work ok as well.
After allowing the rubberized undercoating to cure for one week, I then topcoated it with machinery grade enamel paint.
So far this has held up with a battery sitting on it for the last 15+ years. The battery has no hold down and never did from when it was new, so I'm sure it bounces around a good bit when the machine is being used. Good luck to you.
![]() 05/07/2014 at 14:07 |
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Thanks. When I ultimately attempt this, I was going to do a similar process as you.