How do you sell a jalopy?

"DAMG0014" (DAMG0014)
02/18/2014 at 16:39 • Filed to: junk, jalopy, crack pipe

Oh, I'm sorry. You wanted to park here?

I've been looking online, and there are a handful of generic-looking websites excited to offer me cash for my car. All of them have their own "reviews", which are either phony or hand-selected. Either way, it seems like a decent way of ridding of my car. Has anyone used these? There's no info on them online.

I also looked at my local salvage yards, and they seem to score low on customer service, and I don't think they even offer to tow.

My car is currently not running; that's why I didn't offer it when I bought my new one. Also, the car is not under my name; I have the title, but it's under my mom's name, and she's in a different state. - I'm guessing the title situation may get in the way of putting this thing on Craig's? - Come spring I shouldn't have any issues getting it going, but right now, in freezing temperatures, the ol' Buick won't start. On a day when it might be 30+ degrees, I may be able to jump it and get it going. I don't know; it'd be nice to have that extra space in my driveway.

DISCUSSION (7)

Nick, Drives a Cobalt LT > DAMG0014
02/18/2014 at 16:41

Find a salvage yard, they will take anything.

They gave me 200ish for a shell....no suspension, and the car was actually totalled....they even towed it away for me.

ddavidn > DAMG0014
02/18/2014 at 16:43

Scrap yard will usually arrange towing if you ask them nicely a few times. Probably your best bet, though you'll only get value for the scrap metal. And yes, their cotomer seviss is not great.

deekster_caddy > DAMG0014
02/18/2014 at 16:53

What's "local"? Salvage yard, but if you really want to sell it I've got a bit of experience with late 80s and 90s Buicks and can probably help you get it running reliably. (if I'm somewhat 'local')

If it's somewhat sound of body and you have little choice but to fix it or get another jalopy, and want to try to fix it, let me know.

'somewhat local' to me means eastern MA/southern NH. Doesn't look like there's enough snow in your pic to be that local to me ;)

Dunnik > DAMG0014
02/18/2014 at 17:25

So that's your Century? 1988 or so, yes? My first car was an '86 Century Estate - a woody. Was the family hauler before it was handed over to me. Was a company car, dealer serviced, and served me well. Never left me stranded, except one time, it almost did...on a very, very cold night. I eventually pleaded with her enough to get her to start, but I suppose these old Buicks don't like extreme cold.

Maybe you should wait until it warms up: start it, and if it runs, get your mom to xfer the title to your name, then sell it and make a bit more over scrap value.

DAMG0014 > Dunnik
02/18/2014 at 17:42

Mine was not well serviced. I was told it needed MAF sensor about 2-3 years ago, but I was told it would cost around $800, so I passed on that. During this last fall, I found out it was only like $200. I bought the part, installed it in five minutes, but the car ran worse. I'm guessing in the absence of this part for so long, I probably did some permanent damage. If I wasn't revving that engine, the car would sputter and die. Luckily, I've always worked off of the interstate.

In the cold, the engine turns over, but the car won't start. Also, for whatever reason the car will get from point A to B, but if you decide to go to point C, you better hurry on up and just get back to point A, because it's very possible it'll just stall and die at a stop. And it won't start back up for another or so.

DAMG0014 > deekster_caddy
02/18/2014 at 18:04

I'm in Fargo, ND. I caved-in and bought a new car last month.

A month before that I decided to get things fixed because I had extra cash. I was going to install a new battery, get my tires rotated, wheels aligned... basic maintenance to keep it running through the winter. It died on idling at the battery shop, and they told me the battery wasn't an issue.

The last person that looked at it said my whole engine needed to be re-wired. Apparently, they couldn't run diagnostics, because it's so old. The car ran better with the MAF sensor unplugged; I ran it this way for at least 2 years. I was told it was an $800 to fix, but I later found out it was $200 DIY; and after I did that (twice!), it still ran better with it unplugged. I'm guessing I did some permanent damage in the time I didn't get that fixed. About a third of my electronics didn't work, no dash lights, no audio, and the heater would sometimes struggle and produce smoke (I'm a 100% that was not good, but I never got it checked out). So the re-wiring made sense to me, when a mechanic doesn't want to take your money... well, then your car will sit on your driveway.

deekster_caddy > DAMG0014
02/18/2014 at 20:25

Heck you could probably get a working used engine with all it's sensors for around $600. If you aren't doing your own work, then yeah it's probably time to send it off.

Salvage yards aren't customer friendly but what they can't sell in parts they can make up for in salvage. Just the scrap metal weight is good for two hundred or so. I completely gutted a car and brought the shell to a metal recycler and got $160 for it. (in addition to making some money selling off the majority of parts)