"Taylor Martin" (tjmartin)
07/06/2020 at 14:53 • Filed to: None
2
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"Taylor Martin" (tjmartin)
07/06/2020 at 14:53 • Filed to: None | 2
| 52 |
I’m not a mechanic, I know very little, and the place to start has always been oil changes (at least that’s what I’m led to believe). I know the oil my car runs on, I check it and all that, I know where the knobs and screws are, I’ve just never done it because 1.) I don’t have any buddies to spot me and 2.) I haven’t had the gear.
But with all of you, I have at least one and a half of those things... maybe.
I’m not saying you’ll road trip down here and give me all your tools, I’m essentially asking for guidance, starting with actually jacking the car off the ground.
I do NOT have a garage, I have an apartment complex, and there’s one little area where nobody really parks that I’d likely use to do the change. It’s not ideal, but it’ll do. I also don’t have a garage for storage, so anything I buy will take up real estate in one small closet that I have, or will get thrown into the trunk of my car. Either way, the situation isn’t perfect.
But I have to start somewhere, and that somewhere is purchasing all the necessary things. In this post, it’s the j ack and stands .
I do all my car part searching on CarID, cause it looks nice and has lots of things (although it doesn’t have an Acura TSX SportWagon /Honda Accord Touring Trunk Cover). This is the first result to pop up, and two tons is enough for my ton and a half car. But before I buy it, I gotta clarify all the other types of j acks on the market, and try and find one that isn’t too expensive. (I know you can’t skimp on safety, but 300 seems a bit steep).
This is a poorly photoshopped bottle jack, to which I ask, wouldn’t this work? Would two of these on each side work? That cuts the price substantially, but it still has to be the right tool for the job.
And what about scissor jacks? Two of those on each side would get the car raised a bit. Or just one and then right after I’d slide a jackstand underneath... and speaking of jackstands...
Which ones do I get? There are a ton, and each of them would hold up my car just fine but I’ve read somewhere that Big Red has had some problems with their stands (an amazon review maybe?). Regardless, there are so many options and the long and short of it is I need help.
What do you suggest? What do you use? Wanna let me borrow it? (just kidding... unless... no that’d be silly... unless...)
That’s all from me, heres Yakety Yak by Chet Atkins, my favorite rendition of the song :
jminer
> Taylor Martin
07/06/2020 at 15:28 |
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For things like oil changes where you don’t need to lift the car high or long a 2 ton trolley jack is perfect.
I have a craftsman one in this style that’s a 2 1/4 ton jack I bought for $15 in a pawn shop 15 years ago that still gets regular use.
Not the best practice but I don’t use jack stands when I do oil changes, but I’m not saying you shouldn’t.
Another good option for oil changes is ramps. That way you don’t have to worry about jacks or stands or it falling.
https://www.harborfreight.com/13000-lb-portable-vehicle-ramp-set-63956.html
Hell you can even build some out of wood for not much.
If you live near St Louis I’d be happy to loan you some equipment for your first oil change. Hell I’ll even come and offer backup if needed.
I like cars: Jim Spanfeller is one ugly motherfucker
> Taylor Martin
07/06/2020 at 15:28 |
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There’s probably a jack in your trunk with the sp are tire. It’s fine. I get the $5 walmart jack stands. They’re fine. Ramps are also fine for changing oil. Just be sure to chock the rear wheels.
Any way you do it, shake the car before you go under. Like, really shake. If the stands are wobbly, don't go under.
Pickup_man
> Taylor Martin
07/06/2020 at 15:33 |
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I’ve always been of the mindset that you never regret spending money on tools, so get the good ones, within budget of course.
I’d skip right over the bottle jacks and scissor jacks, they both have their place, (small, cheap) but they’re way less stable, and therefore more dangerous, than a floor jack. An aluminum jack is probably a good idea in your case since you will need to carry it often, or store it in vehicle. They’re generally nicer to use and move around as well, however steel, non low profile ones can be found cheaper. I’d also recommend one with a quick lift, I don’t have one of those and there is So. Much. Pumping, especially when trying to lift the truck.
I’ve also had the though that jack s
tands are kinda hard to screw up as long as it looks like it’s welded good, but then there’s that whole recent Harbor freight recall so......
. These are the tools that your life will literally depend on so don’t skimp, if there’s bad reviews look else where. Jack
stands are abundant and generally inexpensive, make sure you get one that has good reviews
. I still have the Harbor Freight
Pittsburgh
brand stands (all six were gifts), I’m clearly not dead, and mine weren’t affected by the recall, but I don’t trust them anymore so I’ll be on the lookout as well.
gmporschenut also a fan of hondas
> Taylor Martin
07/06/2020 at 15:34 |
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I would start with ramps and wheel chock. With a spotter when to stop hard to screw up.
Also in addition to your pan to collect oil, being your first time, I would also get speedy dry to soak up any spillage.
4kc
> Taylor Martin
07/06/2020 at 15:39 |
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Most of all the stands come out of the same factories with the same worn out tooling making them. The Harbo r Fr eight 6 ton stands are probably the best deal for the money. All the 2 ton stands are similarly bad. (See recent H arbo r Freight recalls) the 3 ton yellow Daytona Jack from Harbor Freight is the literal same as the $ 600 Snap-On jack.
Who is the Leader - 404 / Blog No Longer Available
> Taylor Martin
07/06/2020 at 15:41 |
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You could buy a used floor jack if you are on a tight budget and don’t plan on using it much. Jack stands are important more for quantity than quality for most lighter cars.
Make sure you have your tools and some paper towels laid out within reach before you start. That a lm ost ended poorly for me the other day. Fortunately I got some hand me down crap jack, which doesn’t fit under my car unless I drive it up on some shims. I also have an oil filter that screws on with a super weird huge 15/16 size so that was the only part that was hard. You'll do fine.
Future next gen S2000 owner
> Taylor Martin
07/06/2020 at 15:43 |
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Snag a good heavy duty set of CL. No need to buy new. I picked up my jack and stands on CL for about 50 bucks. Jack and stands are rated to 3-4 tons. They are overkill for what I do but I’ve had them for about a decade.
As others mentioned, ramps are a good place to start as well. They’ll probably be more useful for oil changes than a jack but a jack is more versatile when you expand your wrenching.
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> Pickup_man
07/06/2020 at 15:45 |
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Steel jacks that don t go down much are annoying. Mine forces me to drive my car onto some shims before I can get it under. Fine for limited use but anything more frequent it is a PITA. I think a used high end floor jack could be a good alternative to the crap cheapies.
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Who is the Leader - 404 / Blog No Longer Available
> Who is the Leader - 404 / Blog No Longer Available
07/06/2020 at 15:46 |
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Oh, and put the hand brake on.
Really, pawn shop/Craigslist/estate sale floor j ack s and stands would serve you fine. My hand me down cheapo floor jack just sucks so bad. Go high end used.
PartyPooper2012
> Taylor Martin
07/06/2020 at 15:47 |
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Kind sir, I offer the following advice
Get a very small jack of your choosing that is capable of lifting your car. How do you know if a jack is capable of lifting your car? Google car’s weight. Then divide it by 2. One jack won’t be lifting whole car. Half of it at best. Say your car weights 6 tons. 3 ton jack is on a cusp. That being said, get one that can lift a bit more- say 4 or 5... to be on a safe side.
Observe the differences between jacks-
bottle jack - heavy yet compact. Able to lift a good bit of weight. May not be as stable as say floor jack.
Scissor jack that comes with a car should suffice assuming you are working on a level surface.
Floor jack is sometimes too heavy to lift (you may need to lift to get it into your apartment closet). More stable. Can slide under the car with the wheels they have.
You will need jack stands - once the car is finally closer to God, you want to support under the car. Should the car shift, roll, jerk, etc... jack stand will provide insurance - The center column lifts up to reach as high as possible and as high as you might need - make sure it is flat on all the legs - not tilted and the center column goes into something solid - frame of the car for instance.
I am skipping a few bits here and there. only because its monday and ive been up since 2am so youtube some info on how to lift a car with your choice of a jack and how to use jack stands.
Now that your car is up, close all doors. block up the wheels - blocks around wheels that are still on the ground to prevent car from rolling away in case brakes fail or some other failure. 4x4 bit of wood about width of the tire should work. Do both sides.
Car is up. wheels are blocked. Jack stands are under.
Locate the oil pan drain and find what works for you - wrench, socket. Make sure it fits the bolt/nut without slipping. You don’t want to strip that bolt/nut.
Place a drain pan under the car. Good old car parts store will have a drain pan. Normal cars have about 4-8 quarts of oil.
Now give it a good ol lefty loosy with the wrench/socket and take it out completely. Let the oil drain into the pan. Being a noob, you will probably spill a bunch. Best place cardboard on the ground so any spill can go on it.
Once all the oil drains out, place the bolt/nut back in and tighten it.
Get an oil wrench, or a socket, or whatever is recommended for your car and crack the oil filter. Once you pull it off, it will be full of oil. That too will probably be spilled, but if lucky, it will go in the drain pan.
Install new filter - for your car. Don’t over-tighten it. Usually I give it a good tight enough with a hand.
Without starting the vehicle, remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle back on the ground so it is leveled. Add oil to the appropriate level.
Start the car and check under it to make sure nothing is leaking. Drain bolt/nut might drip if you didnt tighten it. Oil filter might leak if the rubber gasket fell out. If it’s leaking, quickly stick the drain pan under it, shut the car off. Fix what’s wrong. refill oil and check again.
You’re almost there.
Bring used oil and filter to autoparts place where they usually take used oil (autozone does) or some other place who takes used oil for recycling. Don’t pour it down a storm drain or sink. Absolutely do not do that.
Reset your oil change reminder on the car (they are all different.) and you’re done.
Now for the pain in the ass part - you have to store all your tools - jack, jack stand, oil drain pan, sockets/wrenches, oil wrenches, blocks of wood in your little closet.
More than likely, they will be oil soaked. Oil is a bit on a carcinogenic side. For this reason I suggest keeping these things outside (garage / shed/ buddy’s shed or garage). If not possible, give them the best cleaning you can.
Now, depending on a car, some cars come with oil filter that is the whole thing - metal casing with filter already built in. On other cars, you have to keep the metal “can” and replace just the filter thing.
vs
top one is just filter. Bottom is the whole filter with metal casing.
You’ll know when you buy new filter and oil which applies to your car.
Don’t forget to wipe down any oil spilled onto the car’s frame or other bits. (if you develop an oil leak on your car, it will be very hard to find the source if your car is covered in oil you spilled on it during oil changes)
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> jminer
07/06/2020 at 15:48 |
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I think a used but formerly higher end floor jack is better than a new cheapo one. Ramps don't work on many modern cars because of the low front lip.
MKULTRA1982(ConCrustyBrick)
> 4kc
07/06/2020 at 15:51 |
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came here to second this. If I didn’t have to pay the exchange or shipping I would have bought a HF Daytona jack YEARS ago. a little pricey but the best bang for your buck imo. Jack stands wise I would get ones with the little slit for the pinch weld.
MasterMario - Keeper of the V8s
> gmporschenut also a fan of hondas
07/06/2020 at 15:52 |
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being your first time, I would also get speedy dry to soak up any spillage.
I feel attacked lol. I still manage to spill oil every now and then. For whatever reason I seem to miscalculated how far the oil will shoot out of the hole and don’t have the pan in quite the right spot.
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Pickup_man
> Who is the Leader - 404 / Blog No Longer Available
07/06/2020 at 15:53 |
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Up until recently I’ve only ever needed to work on pickups so a standard steel jack was good enough, and fit my broke recently graduated college kid budget. That and most low profile quick jacks, especially the aluminum ones, usually aren’t rated heavy enough for full size truck lifting, or at least what I’m comfortable with.
For anyone not working on full sized trucks, a low profile quick jack is %100 the way to go.
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MKULTRA1982(ConCrustyBrick)
> Taylor Martin
07/06/2020 at 15:53 |
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I would recommend the HF daytona jack and a set of 4 jackstands with the cut outs for the pinch welds. Also grab 4 1$ hockey pucks as they work great for a nice buffer between the stands and the bottom of the car. Its just bro-science but I think the puck deforming around the car and the top of the jackstand makes it more stable. I hate marring the bottom of my cars with the jack/stands too.
Don’t screw around with scissor jacks unless you have to. I had one fold and almost punch a hole in the oil pan with the jack stand that was also under the car but not extended. Would have probably broken my ribs if I was under there at the time. Scissor jacks belong with a spare tire and nowhere else imo
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Who is the Leader - 404 / Blog No Longer Available
> Pickup_man
07/06/2020 at 15:58 |
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My Cruze has a shockingly terrible approach angle. I can’t get down my driveway without scraping and that’s with cutting across the sidewalk at an angle. Ramps are basically a no go. The front is low enough that I have to drive up on wooden blocks just to get my janky jack under it. Quick Jack s would be nice but also worth a considerable portion of the value of my car and I don’t work on it often. Janky free floor jack it is then.
Most pickups I don't even need a jack for fluid changes. Ground clearance, yo.
ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability
> Taylor Martin
07/06/2020 at 15:59 |
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I’ve been using a harbor freight low level jack for the past 2 years, $120 with 2 year warranty iirc. Its been working fine.
Another way to do oil changes is to suck out all the oil from the oil dipstick hole. Thats what I did for around a year when I didn’t have a garage. I used this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JFJM14/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_erSjsJzhIZZWR
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Pickup_man
> Who is the Leader - 404 / Blog No Longer Available
07/06/2020 at 16:01 |
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My standard jack just fits under the Cobalt, but even if it didn’t it’s a Cobalt, so ram it in until it fits lol.
Yeah, a jack is unnecessary for fluid changes on the truck, necessary though for tire rotations , suspension work etc.
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Who is the Leader - 404 / Blog No Longer Available
> Pickup_man
07/06/2020 at 16:08 |
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Hey, now that I have a jack and some stands I can finally not have to pay some buffoon with an impact gun se t at max torque to do it! Realizations!
lone_liberal
> Taylor Martin
07/06/2020 at 16:13 |
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Get a Harbor Freight Daytona low profile floor jack, and then get a good set of jack stands from U.S. Jack or other high quality stands. The Daytona jacks are solid and widely used. Don’t try to save money on the safety stuff.
TheRealBicycleBuck
> Taylor Martin
07/06/2020 at 16:20 |
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Your TSX should have an emergency jack. You can use that to lift the car. Be sure to read about the correct way in the user’s manual. There are specific jacking points on the body. Do it wrong and you can really screw things up. I had a transmission shop use a jack in the wrong spot. They ended up paying for body work.
Once it’s lifted, s upport the weight with a set of jack stands placed under the suspension. Don’t try to support the weight on the floor pan somewhere. That’ll put a couple tons of pressure into a spot not meant to support the weight. The best situation is some bent metal. The worst would be a hole in the floor.
Skip the ramps. I have a set which were fine for my truck and our Explorer. My WRX sits too low for ramps to work. The front lip hits the ramp before the tire. I suspect the same would happen with your TSX.
As for the oil change itself, there are plenty of good suggestions in other posts.
ShrimpHappens, née WJalopy
> Taylor Martin
07/06/2020 at 16:25 |
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First, do you really even need a jack just to change the oil?
Consider that you really might not. I used to change the oil in my ‘01 Corolla without one.
Lay down in front of the vehicle, and you may find that the drain plug and the filter are within reach, even if *just* so. Then, odds are you can find a drain pan that’ll fit.
Even with jack stands and such, if you don’t have to be under the car, you don’t want to be, right?
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gmporschenut also a fan of hondas
> MasterMario - Keeper of the V8s
07/06/2020 at 16:28 |
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The Honda isn’t bad, but the 914 gets a cup of speedy dry before I start.
OPPOsaurus WRX
> Taylor Martin
07/06/2020 at 16:32 |
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The most important part is making sure the car is stable. Stick a brick or something front and back of the wheel so it doesn't roll off. Stuff like that as it is tough to replace your skull if it gets crushed. Make sure the old gaskets and stuff come off with the old filter too. I made quite a mess that way
Kiltedpadre
> Taylor Martin
07/06/2020 at 16:33 |
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Skip the scissor jack. They can be dangerously unstable in any circumstance where the area you’re working isn’t perfectly level. I consider them good enough for a roadside tire change, but I wouldn’t use them on a regular basis.
Bottle jacks are nice for their size, but they have stability issues too. If you consider one make sure to get one that has a based designed so you can attach it to a board of some sort to help it with stability. Another potential issue is retracted they can be considerably taller than a trolley style jack. Make sure it’ll actually fit under your car before buying.
A floor jack would be my first choice. Grab one either second hand or from Harbor Freight. I’ve been using a Harbor Freight jack for several years working on my truck and cars without any problem.
No matter what you use don’t forget to chock the wheels as well. You don’t need an actual chock. I have a cut-off chunk of 4X4 lumber that I use. Heck a big rock will do the job if handy.
Don’t hesitate to buy tools used. If you do check the jack for evidence of leaking hydraulic fluid, broken or cracke welds, or any damage to the lifting arm. Same thing with jack stands; check for damage such as bent material or broken welds.
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gmporschenut also a fan of hondas
> Taylor Martin
07/06/2020 at 16:38 |
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What vehicle is this for?
Bylan - Hoarder of LS400's
> Taylor Martin
07/06/2020 at 19:39 |
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I survived for a good solid year with only 2 basic jack stands from Farm & fleet (on sale $20) and using the sketchy scissor jack that my lexus came with. DONT DO THAT
Since then ive upgraded to one of these:
Yes its a cheapy harbor freight jack, I am not a nascar crew chief. I ALWAYS have 3 points of safety under my car (2 jack stands and a spare wheel under a frame rail) and I never get under a car while lifting it with the jack.
The way I see it, spending $500 on fancy jacks and stands doesnt guarantee my safety. Taking my time, being careful, and USING the equipment properly is what guarantees safety.
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Taylor Martin
> jminer
07/06/2020 at 23:59 |
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A legendary offer, but I’m way down in the sunshine state so that’d be a hell of a drive haha. Regardless, the links really help. I looked at ramps but the only ones I could find were Rhino Ramps and apparently those are bad news bears. I’ll do some digging into these but I agree, ramps are absolutely easier to use.
How would you suggest holding a ramp into place, as well as the rear tires. I know you can just put the parking brake on but I’ve also read that you should find a stopper to put behind it.
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Taylor Martin
> Pickup_man
07/07/2020 at 00:02 |
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Alrighty, bottle and scissor jacks are out, and aluminium is in. Quicklift sounds like it’s super useful too, and I’ll take your word that the harbor freight brand jack stands keep you alive. A lot of Harbor Freight stuff has been recommended , and I hadn’t heard of that brand until now, but it’s good to know that’s a trusted one.
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Taylor Martin
> Who is the Leader - 404 / Blog No Longer Available
07/07/2020 at 00:04 |
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Yeah, I don’t have a huge amount of ride height, so the jack would have to have a lower minimum height (I haven’t measured, but when I eyeball it it’s around 3-5 inches). Would like something that could be used often, though I wouldn’t really use it much at all, just for routine stuff like oil and maybe transmission if I feel frisky one day.
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Taylor Martin
> gmporschenut also a fan of hondas
07/07/2020 at 00:05 |
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I’m with you, ramps are easier, and I can have my roommate tell me when to stop. A lot simpler than a jack.
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jminer
> Taylor Martin
07/07/2020 at 00:07 |
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The ramps don’t usually move much as the wheel will put weight on the ramps before they push them.
For the rear wheels pick up a rubber chock when you get the ramps, that plus the parking brake should hold you well.
https://www.harborfreight.com/solid-rubber-wheel-chock-96479.html
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Taylor Martin
> Who is the Leader - 404 / Blog No Longer Available
07/07/2020 at 00:07 |
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My lower front lip isn’t terribly low, it’s just long, though I’ve been able to get up some steep speed bumps without cause for alarm, they’re all over my apartment complex.
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Taylor Martin
> Who is the Leader - 404 / Blog No Longer Available
07/07/2020 at 00:08 |
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What brands do you consider to be “high end” or high quality? Harbor Freight has been thrown around a bit in here, I’d like to hear your thoughts.
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Taylor Martin
> PartyPooper2012
07/07/2020 at 00:13 |
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Kind sir, that was a super detailed reply and I’m eternally grateful for it. I know that the oil filters that go on my car have a metal casing and can be bought as such, so that’s just a screw on sort of situation. As for cleaning the tools, which I’ll have to do simply because I can’t keep them outside, what would you recommend using to do so. I’ve heard about quick dry or speedy dry solutions for when I (inevitably) spill oil on the ground, but what about the actual tools themselves.
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Taylor Martin
> I like cars: Jim Spanfeller is one ugly motherfucker
07/07/2020 at 00:14 |
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That’s the kicker, I don’t get a jack with my car. It comes with a temporary tire re inflator inator, but no spare. It’s a neat system, saves lots of space in my trunk, but doesn’t come with a j ack.
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Who is the Leader - 404 / Blog No Longer Available
> Taylor Martin
07/07/2020 at 00:15 |
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Same here. I’ve never scraped on speed bumps but the length makes the approach angle awful for street to driveway transitions. Mostly it is the rubber air dam but the lower lip has deep gouges in it mostly from my driveway. It's the air dam that hangs up the jack jac it isn't easily removable.
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Who is the Leader - 404 / Blog No Longer Available
> Taylor Martin
07/07/2020 at 00:18 |
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Less "brand" but more in the price level. Most tool companies manufacture Jack's and they aren't too different. I haven't used many but you can tell the difference between an entry level one ton and a nicer 2 ton. I really don't know much at all about specs. Whichever one seems most substantial on Craigslist or the pawn shop that isn't super expensive.
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Taylor Martin
> TheRealBicycleBuck
07/07/2020 at 00:18 |
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My TSX does not come with a jack stand or a spare tire, it has a temporary tire inflator that saves space in the trunk. So I have to buy a jack, and while ramps seem good you’re right, they may not fit under my semi low lip. The only issue is finding out where exactly the strong points for jacking up my car are, but that’s a simple YouTube search away. Thanks a million.
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Taylor Martin
> MKULTRA1982(ConCrustyBrick)
07/07/2020 at 00:20 |
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That is some serious bro science, but there is some merit to it. Scissor jacks are out of the question, and I appreciate you steering me towards a specific brand. I’ve never heard about pinch welds, so I’ll certainly look into those.
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Taylor Martin
> ShrimpHappens, née WJalopy
07/07/2020 at 00:22 |
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They aren’t all that accessible . I have to take off a cover and then I’ll find the drain plug smack in the middle, underneath my car. There’s not a real way to get leverage.
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Taylor Martin
> ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability
07/07/2020 at 00:24 |
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A fluid evacuator seems like an offbeat and undertested method. It makes sense to me, but it certainly isn’t traditional and that’s a bit unnerving you know? Besides, this doesn’t solve the problem of the oil filter, which is located under the car. Obnoxious, but that’s just the way it is.
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Taylor Martin
> OPPOsaurus WRX
07/07/2020 at 00:25 |
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I’m worried I’ll lose a gasket or something like that, and I’ll also have to look up what new ones I need to get. I remember seeing everything I needed for my car at one point, but I’m blanking now. Maybe cause it s midnight... who knows...
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Taylor Martin
> Future next gen S2000 owner
07/07/2020 at 00:27 |
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Yeah, I’d like to get more and more experience with this sort of stuff. Oil changes is the start. Then it’s all downhill from there...
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Taylor Martin
> Bylan - Hoarder of LS400's
07/07/2020 at 00:29 |
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I’m not going cheap on this, I’m just not looking to go super expensive either. 100-200 is the price range for all the safety stuff, which seems reasonable with what people are suggestion (lots of Harbor Freight). On the point of 3 point safety, if I don’t have a spare tire for the frame rail would you suggest another stand instead or something else?
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Bylan - Hoarder of LS400's
> Taylor Martin
07/07/2020 at 01:15 |
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After a while, you start to get a feel for what is safe and decent at harbor freight and what is a no-no.
For the 3rd point of safety, I recommend something that cannon possibly allow the car to crush you. So not a jackstand, because that can collapse . A hefty cinder block or some bricks might do in a pinch, adding bulky things to your arsenal is counterintuitive.
Also if you find yourself removing wheels with any frequency, get an impact gun. I will never dick around with a breaker bar and 5 lugnuts per wheel again.
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PartyPooper2012
> Taylor Martin
07/07/2020 at 05:13 |
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It all depends on what we’re cleaning. Metal does not absorb as much oil as say - wood or cardboard. Metal tools - wrenches and oil filter wrenches can be cleaned with a good rag.
Oil pan can be cleaned with a clean rag and then add some brake or carb cleaner. Both dissolve greasy residue. Wipe it up with a clean rag and it should be ok.
Wood blocks shouldn’t have much oil on them. They are around the tire. If you mange to get some oil on them... can’t really clean em. Stick em in a plastic bag - like a ziploc bag or some thing so you don’t have to smell em.
Jacks.. same as wrenches, but they will have spots where you cannot reach. Such is life.
As some suggested, if you are just doing oil changes, you might be better off with a pair of ramps. You need to be very slow and careful as you are driving up on them. My sister wasn’t sure what she was doing and she drove up, and over them. Ramps were then stuck under a car... but we got them out fairly easily. Still a nice jolt.
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I like cars: Jim Spanfeller is one ugly motherfucker
> Taylor Martin
07/07/2020 at 07:27 |
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Huh.
If you’re concerned for size and cost, get a scissor jack. It’s more likely to tip and drop the car, but that’s what jack stands are for. Dropping a car about a foot is fine.
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ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability
> Taylor Martin
07/07/2020 at 07:29 |
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Aah having the filter on the bottom kills the idea of a fluid extractor...
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OPPOsaurus WRX
> Taylor Martin
07/07/2020 at 07:53 |
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you have to dip your finger in the oil and wet the filter gasket and threads. The gasket really shouldn’ t fall off the new one, I’ve never seen that. The oops i made is when i pulled off the old one the gasket had stuck to the car and i didn’ t notice. When I started up the car it made a huge mess. The drain plug has a special type of washer on it. Some people replace it each time, some dont.
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MKULTRA1982(ConCrustyBrick)
> Taylor Martin
07/07/2020 at 08:36 |
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Happy to help! Pinch welds are easy to spot on most cars, just that little seam of metal that is below the rockers. If you haven’t read about the Harbour freight/snap-on lawsuits regarding the Daytona jack you should: it’s interesting!
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Future next gen S2000 owner
> Taylor Martin
07/07/2020 at 10:21 |
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Exactly! You can join the wonderful ranks of shadetree driveway mechanics and our motto of “ How hard can it be? There’s a video on Youtube. I got this”!