Mini Update: Dead

"sony1492" (sony1492) 03/23/2020 at 13:00 • Filed to: Mini JCW

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So after rebuilding the head, turbo, etc, what’s wrong? No rail pressure above 90psi on startup then after a few starts it rises up to 1k and will cut back to 90psi on hard acceleration, Now with heavy misfires.

After replacing the hpfp and in tank pump to no avail, I was driving it to work trying to better understand the problem and its conditions. Under acceleration from a turn it started cutting fuel then stuttered heavily and began misfiring. Kept misfiring with codes for all cylinders, barely got it home.

Tried a new coil because it seemed to level out onto 1 cylinder to no avail, tried a used fuel rail with injectors and sensor to cross those off the list, Nope. It seems be okay around 2-3k with no load but at idle it can barely keep itself alive(other times it idles fine). When under load misfires occur, even with proper fuel pressure. The plugs are new, coils all working.

Did a compression test, my ebay gauge always seems to read very low so I got 100psi across all cylinders which would indicate none of them are particularly down (on a different engine it wouldnt go above about 100psi, but the down cylinders still showed 70 or whatever amount less).

Whats left is potentially the internal relay within the fuse panel that controls fuel systems, perhaps it is not allowing enough amps? Not sure how it would maintain fuel pressure while missing so heavily though.

At this point I’ve given up, the car is going to get parked. The last bit of money it will see is perhaps a car cover to hold it over until the payments are done.

TL/DR: I don’t have the skill or knowledge to diagnose the problem, it is either internal engine damages or electrical. Either way I’m over it for now.

Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 13:02

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Worst Oppo vehicle ever.

CompactLuxuryFan > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 13:02

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Hmm maybe a rat got into some harness? Very sad after all you’ve put into the car!

Who is the Leader - 404 / Blog No Longer Available > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 13:06

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That really sucks. Such an awesome car but you seem to have had every possible problem with it. So maybe there is a problem with the wiring harness that comes and goes based on how it is shaken about?

ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 13:06

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Have you tried to use a scanner or INPA to check for codes? It may have some stores, only thing I can think of....

themanwithsauce - has as many vehicles as job titles > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 13:07

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Does the mini have throttle by wire or old school cable? Sounds like TPS issues could be afoot?

Jim Spanfeller > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 13:09

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LS swap it. If there’s not enough room under the hood, tear out the rear seats and make it mid-engined.

ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability > themanwithsauce - has as many vehicles as job titles 03/23/2020 at 13:09

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By wire

Thisismydisplayname > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 13:16

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Need to check the low pressure fuel pump and make sure you’re getting the proper pressure/volume up to the HPFP, or else it’s starving that pump of fuel to pressurize. I just re-read to see you replaced it, so maybe a blockage in the line, in line fuel filter clogged?

Are you getting any codes with the low pressures? It should tell you if the high pressure is the only low spot. I feel your frustration.

Similar symptoms on my S8 before I learned the rocker arm decided to leave its post and pop out a cam plug that caused a vacuum leak and had random misfires. Everything pointed to a fuel lean issue, but I neglected to look for a vacuum leak, so hopefully not your case, but might be something somewhat unrelated causing the issue. Leaking injectors? Maybe that second cylinder that looks more carboned up than the others?

I can relate to your frustration. 

AlfaCorse > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 13:16

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By putting the Quadrifoglio badges on your Mini, I think you are actually managing to further drag down the reliability reputation of the Alfa Romeo brand, as if that were somehow possible haha

sony1492 > ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability 03/23/2020 at 13:16

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I have a little scan tool

None of it has been too useful, there are o2 codes from the downpipe, hpfp solenoid circuit malfunction, multiple   misfires, fuel pressure low, and a few odds and ends.

Ive seen the live  data and all the sensors are responding properly

Thisismydisplayname > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 13:18

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Oh, also could be the follower on the cam?  Is the cam itself okay?  VWs like to chew up the follower and if left too long, the cam lobe as well.  Could be that that doesn’t let the HPFP stroke properly.

sony1492 > themanwithsauce - has as many vehicles as job titles 03/23/2020 at 13:18

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Th rottle by wire but live data looks normal for the tps, it’s a possibility but that’s a sensor that is closely looked over by the ecu and would throw a code.

The misfires happening after a likely very lean condition unde r acceleration has me leaning heavily towards internal engine damage.

MasterMario - Keeper of the V8s > Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo 03/23/2020 at 13:19

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Yet one of the best in theory

sony1492 > Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo 03/23/2020 at 13:21

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At least the lexus was paid off  and when it broke I knew why/how to fix it. RIP

JawzX2, Boost Addict. 1.6t, 2.7tt, 4.2t > AlfaCorse 03/23/2020 at 13:23

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My ‘92 164-s was actually quite reliable. I put over 400k miles on it, and it never left me stranded. I did have a rough go of it in traffic when the fuel pressure regulator blew, but that was a cheap(ish) and easy fix and only effected one commute. Hell, even when it blew a headgasket it managed not to bork itself. 

themanwithsauce - has as many vehicles as job titles > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 13:27

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Hmmmm....But what internal damage could cause such inconsistencies? Maybe the timing belt jumped a tooth for one of your camshafts? CPS reading normal when it shouldn’t? Not trying to repeat what you already checked, I just used to have an old Audi and it did......Audi things.... So I’ve been there. This sounds like one of the weird electrical gremlins that would just randomly decide when it would appear. 

sony1492 > Thisismydisplayname 03/23/2020 at 13:30

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R eplaced so far: hpfp, lpfp and sender/filter, injectors, rail, fuel pressure sensor, head is new rebuilt, new chain, new chain guides and associated tensioner.

Oil isnt flaky with metal but ill pull the valve cover off for the hell of it. Only fuel codes are for hpfp due to the low rail pressure. With the hpfp solenoid unplugged, no pressure change(under the not working conditions on first start ) with fuel pressure at 90psi(which to me indicates a working in tank pump able to maintain 90psi.

D efinately will take your experiences into consideration next time I'm fiddling with it.

sony1492 > Who is the Leader - 404 / Blog No Longer Available 03/23/2020 at 13:33

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The sudden misfires occuring only after an acceration is what has me worried since that could be melted things.  I could try tracing the wires but I dont know where to start since nothing is obviously not working

AlfaCorse > JawzX2, Boost Addict. 1.6t, 2.7tt, 4.2t 03/23/2020 at 13:34

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I am mostly kidding since the brand has a reputation that seems to be far worse that the reality, I have had an 86 Spider for 5 years and it has been pretty reliable.  Most of the work I have put into was refreshing the suspension and tune up stuff

sony1492 > themanwithsauce - has as many vehicles as job titles 03/23/2020 at 13:36

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I do appreciate the input, i should start back at the basics and run through the ground connections before deciding its internal damage beyond my comprehension.

sony1492 > Jim Spanfeller 03/23/2020 at 13:38

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A 2000's Taurus SHO v8 would be the  dream

themanwithsauce - has as many vehicles as job titles > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 13:55

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Come to think of it.... My Audi had a real bad misfire/stalling situation that ended up being a multifunction temperature sensor that just absolutely went nuts and basically sent a million signals that all disagreed with one another and the fueling would act up as it would suddenly richen and lean out. This temp sensor was not for the radiator or coolant system, that had a traditional thermostat. But yeah, I had quite a few days I limped it home and it was bucking and kicking and spitting fireballs the whole way.

HFV has no HFV. But somehow has 2 motorcycles > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 13:59

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Have you looked at the throttle position sensor?

I had a similar no fuel under load situation on my Galant and that’s what it ended up being.

Totally different system, especially being drive by wire,  but it’s worth looking into.

sony1492 > themanwithsauce - has as many vehicles as job titles 03/23/2020 at 14:01

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It does have a new china thermostat housing (which contains ect). Gonna go check the values on that later today

Yosefpoysun > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 14:09

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Sounds simple yes but did you try fuel filter? I was in an exact same situation and replaced everything, was a nasty fuel filter the entire time giving me the exact same symptoms.

RallyWrench > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 14:11

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Is the HPFP drive ok? 90psi is feed pressure from the in-tank pump , and rail pressure after the HPFP should be well over 1000. Most DI systems run over 3,000psi at the rail. Mini doesn’t publish a spec, because Mini is BMW and BMW sucks, but 1,000 is still too low for the rail. We do have one Mini client whose car randomly sets misfire codes with no apparent cause, we can never duplicate the symptoms when it’s here but it’ll just randomly run poorly, she’ll cycle the key, and it’s fine. Every time we rescan it, there’s misfires recorded in all cylinders but we’ve never been able to catch it in the act .

sony1492 > RallyWrench 03/23/2020 at 14:21

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It will intermittently work after a few start ups with idle around 1000, and up to 2500 when driving.  The fuel pressures and intermittent nature didnt change with a new hpfp and everything else I've replaced

sony1492 > Yosefpoysun 03/23/2020 at 14:22

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Yes, sadly the filter was replaced with no effect

avalonian > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 14:25

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Boss, with these low interest rates that are approaching go get you something nice and reliable. Toyota, hyundai, or even an SI civic. I feel bad seeing this happen to you.

2006 Mini > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 14:27

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Harmonic Balance is it OK Since you have changed all the wires and the  plugs?

Jim Spanfeller > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 14:29

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That would also be epic. Fun fact: There was once a Mini Cooper race car powered by a rear-mounted Buick 225 v8. The best part? It was still front wheel drive, making it possibly the only rear-engine FWD race car ever. It still exists, though it’s a bit worn out.

ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 14:38

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Thats not enough detail. My Mini throws a P0171 from time to time but this is what INPA tells me:

The second error tells me a lot more as to whats happening (long term fuel correction and short circuit). This is what I meant, INPA is a lot more powerful than the generic scan tool.

Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 14:49

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Ok when you say it like that my armchair/shade-tree mechanic side wonders about the O2 sensors. My familiarity is mostly with CIS Lambda, but I think modern vehicles adjust the mixture/fueling based on what an O2 sensor is seeing. It almost sounds like after the high-throttle run the system is incorrectly fueling/ too slow to react to changes? If it were an easy thing to do I would disconnect the O2 sensors and see what happens. Should hurt anything short term. Wouldn’t explain your low fuel pressure, but it sounds like that has mostly gone away?

Also yeah, always check your grounds, especially on vehicles that are known to have electrical issues. (Can confirm, I own an Alfa and a Saab, both famous for grounding issues.)

Source: I know nothing about Minis.  Please disregard.

Thegert87 > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 15:09

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Just curious, how is the exhaust? Catalytic converter clogged?

sony1492 > Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo 03/23/2020 at 15:09

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Just tried disconnecting o2's, no change. Interestingly I can disconnect any one coilpack while the cars running with no distinguished change

ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 15:10

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Could it be a map sensor perhaps giving off bad readings?

Snuze: Needs another Swede > Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo 03/23/2020 at 15:14

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That’s actually a really good idea. For what it’s worth, on modern DI engines the ECU commands not only duty cycle of the injectors but also the fuel pressure itself.  So it’s possible a bad signal somewhere could cause the ECU to request a sub-optimal fuel pressure or something. 

FCT > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 15:14

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Are you sure your new hpfp is functioning correctly? I’ve never seen a Mini with this many problems , the problems they have are well documented and relatively easy to fix at this point.

Snuze: Needs another Swede > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 15:17

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Any way you could swap ECUs?  Maybe there’s something internal that’s screwed up?

Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 15:39

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I think your car might be haunted.  I would expect some change with the sensors disconnected.  Did it at least throw a new code for it?

sony1492 > Thegert87 03/23/2020 at 17:12

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Non existent, it’s done 15,000 miles with a catless downpipe up to this point.

sony1492 > ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability 03/23/2020 at 17:21

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F iddled around and briefly got the misfire,”fixed” by replacing the plugs which appeared fouled and isolating a coilpack that was intermittent . Ended up getting the misfire back by accelerating and having the engine cut fo r too long(almost sounds like an ignition retard). I believe this is re- fouling the plugs

I’ve noticed the MAF shows 0 grams at idle and a max of 70 before the car cuts out under acceleration (where the grams cut to 0 again aswell). If the MAF is unplugged I get its base map 330 grams and can accelerate with less abrupt hiccups.(still misses here and there)

F uel pressure variance appears to maybe possibly hopefully have been a problem of the cam sensor not being bolted down all the way.(wont know for sure until the car cools down)

sony1492 > Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo 03/23/2020 at 17:23

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It did throw a code.

Ive done some fiddling and It appears my misfires were a symptom of the original fuel pressure issue. See my reply to Italian Job

Spamfeller Loves Nazi Clicks > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 18:16

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You have a faulty sensor read at the rail most likely . The pressure read is incorrect and the logic is falling into a failed state due to impossible input. (A/F high, FP low.)

The plug confirms this; your misfire plug is getting flooded. Carbon fouled and wet . This is a result of protection logic going full open on the injector because it believes pressure is low, which is preferable to dry-firing the cylinder.

Perform continuity and resistance test from HPFP 2-pin to the HPFP solenoid driver pins , perform continuity and resistance test from the fuel rail sensor to the power train control pins. It must be pin to pin. 

Do NOT attempt to take a direct mechanical pressure reading at the DI rail using the sensor tap under ANY circumstances EVER. This is unsafe and will result in injury, fire, death, or worse.

sony1492 > Snuze: Needs another Swede 03/23/2020 at 18:22

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Not really, I'd have to buy one and it's a jcw so the more common S model ecu has a different tune

sony1492 > Spamfeller Loves Nazi Clicks 03/23/2020 at 18:25

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Are you taking, backprobe the line while its attached? Or do you think just checking the wire alone would be enough?

Spamfeller Loves Nazi Clicks > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 18:36

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No, I mean you need to pull the connectors off at both ends and test pin to pin for both continuity and resistance. Not just the wire but the wire through  the connector. With an actual DMM, not a light probe. You need to do this with the car as close to ‘fully assembled’ as possible as well.

Hope that both pass and then replace the fuel rail pressure sensor. Because if either one fails either test, you’re talking about fully disassembling both sides of the firewall.

sony1492 > Spamfeller Loves Nazi Clicks 03/23/2020 at 18:40

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Id be happier if either fail because the hpfp and rail/sensor have been replaced. If the wires pass then I’m left back where I was knowing nothing

Markko1 > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 18:52

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I had the same problem. 3 different mechanic shops couldn’t figure it out. Turns out when the head was rebuilt a tiny bit of sandblast media clogged the Vanos Solenoid. Just cleaned it out and all fixed.

diplodicus forgot his password > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 21:33

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Des anyone have a pinout for the ECU connector? Maybe try a new ecu? 

Mr Mudd > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 23:02

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Maybe fuel filter housing seals?

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/MINI/17-FUEL-Fuel_Pump_and_Filter_Replacement/17-FUEL-Fuel_Pump_and_Filter_Replacement.htm

My Niece loved her s pecial ”mini” door.

CompactLuxuryFan > sony1492 03/23/2020 at 23:52

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Omg you’re the same guy as that SC? Damn that’s rough  You have a lot of stories, though! Means you’re doing something right.

sony1492 > diplodicus forgot his password 03/24/2020 at 05:11

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Ive got engine wiring diagrams from that a shop printed o ut for me

RacinBob > sony1492 03/24/2020 at 08:39

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RootWyrm seems more knowledgeable than me on this so I defer to him. I will for what it is worth offer that when an engine starts and runs but stumbles across all cyl under load, the problem is usually either pre-ignition or lack of spark .. As a result I look at

1. load pre- ignition because way to lean. (How about plugged filter?)

2. Load pre-ignition because too much timing advance or boost (failed waste gate or regulator)

3. Low voltage to ignition resulting in weak spark at load.

If the engine runs and idles, it says to me that it is basically right but there is a common cause preventing running at load. I think you are starving it of fuel, especially based on the plugs. One thing is do not keep running it into stumble as if it is knocking, it will wreck the pistons. I know because I have done it..

One last possibility. Bad Fuel? I haven’t experienced that but one wonders if you have a slug of bad fuel.

Another one is have you changed the plugs recently. If you have and they are wrong (too long) they will cause bad knock at load because the tips are not cooled and will glow red. I ask as the last threads look a bi t different.

Snuze: Needs another Swede > sony1492 03/24/2020 at 09:08

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I kind of figured, wasn’t sure if maybe you knew anyone with an JCW. But in reading some of the other replies it sounds like you got some other really good advice. Good luck and I hope you get it sorted!

Mr Mudd > sony1492 03/24/2020 at 10:09

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M aybe fuel filter housing seals?

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/MINI/17-FUEL-Fuel_Pump_and_Filter_Replacement/17-FUEL-Fuel_Pump_and_Filter_Replacement.htm

My Niece loved her special mini door. 

ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability > sony1492 03/24/2020 at 10:13

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Was it the cam pos sensor fucking up??

I like cars: Jim Spanfeller is one ugly motherfucker > sony1492 03/24/2020 at 12:08

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Kudos to you for not jumping platforms again. If I were in your shoes, I would have switched to something else about a thousand dollars of parts ago. Your mini has been a source of fascination for me for a while.

If you want an obscenely reliable (though not very fast, read that as “don’t go on a highway”) and fuel efficient daily, 1.6 NA diesel VWs are pretty cheap and plentiful out by you (assuming you’re still in California). 

sony1492 > ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability 03/24/2020 at 12:33

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No, it's looking like no change from the original problem now that the misfires figured out

ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability > sony1492 03/24/2020 at 12:37

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Hmm, can you look at what afr the car is reporting (assuming its a wideband) ? Maybe thats where its messed up....

Future next gen S2000 owner > Spamfeller Loves Nazi Clicks 03/24/2020 at 16:33

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Fiery death?

Spamfeller Loves Nazi Clicks > sony1492 03/24/2020 at 17:20

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Nope. Then you go a step back up the flowchart, bench test sensors and solenoids . If that passes, step back up the chart - low pressure fuel pump, sensors, and supply . If that passes, now it’s time to move onto the timing and spark flow chart.

You’re fucking yourself up the same way so many so-called professionals do. You’re blindly throwing parts at it and ignoring the problem to chase a code based on a symptom.

A car is made up of component functions, not just component parts. Computers are not infallible - hell, they’re wrong more than they’re right. That’s why there’s a flowchart. That’s why the best wrenches stick with the flowchart. Symptoms tell you where to start on the flow chart, not what the problem is. You’ve stuck your head in this ‘fuel pressure ’ bag and failed to take it out when it absolutely is not the problem.

The PROBLEM is that the A/F mix or timing is incorrect - or both . The code is just a symptom . Hell, the behavior of the problem is telling me that in fact, the computer has completely lost it’s shit . (Yes that’s the technical term for it.) Which means: the computer is not a valid source of information for anything other than what the computer says it is seeing .

sony1492 > Spamfeller Loves Nazi Clicks 03/24/2020 at 17:34

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I understand this is shit diagnostics and I wouldn’t be throwing parts at it if I had ProD emand in the first place.

The most I can be doing for diagnostics is verifying wiring integrity, without detailed specs on all my components I cant test functionality.

LeeNC > sony1492 03/24/2020 at 17:59

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This isn’t directly related to your problem, but I just wanted to comment that there is no need to put anti- sei ze on your plugs - modern plugs come with a coating that provides that benefit already, and adding anti-seize adds risk of over- tor quing. I contacted Bosch about this directly after seeing an article on Driven2Automotive (won’t post the link in case it’s not allowed here, but happy to if that’s allowed ) that mentions NGK’s warning bulletin about not using anti-seize. Back when I did use it, I also used far less - I feel like what I’m seeing in the photo is way too much and too close to the tip of the plug. Anyway, my $0.02.

Spamfeller Loves Nazi Clicks > sony1492 03/24/2020 at 18:34

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Yeah, I hear you on that one, but at the same time step it back and set aside all of that. So let me sit down and think here.

The plugs show a rich condition, the computer says fuel pressure too low, the O2 says A/F just right. Codes say multiple transmission faults and multiple pending with a single cylinder misfire; it’s just a shitshow there which tells us nothing actually useful .

We have too many pending and we’re missing codes that must be present. Specifically, you don’t have any hard set O2 faults. Again, go back to basics of mechanical operation . If the engine is misfiring and the plugs read rich, this means that one of two things must be true: spark is not firing correctly or the fuel mixture is wrong.

If the fuel mixture is wrong, the O2 sensor must report a fault. Therefore, it must be spark fault. HOWEVER, this spark fault is not following plugs or coils. DFI engines are very twitchy about timing as well. IF the misfire is due to early/late mixture ignition relative to TDC, a misfire will be set but the stochiometric values will be correct . You’re still getting combustion.

And if we had MULTIPLE cylinders misfiring rich or lean - which we do - then we MUST have a stochiometric fault. We cannot have a 4 cylinder misfire condition AND maintain a 14.7 unless combustion is still occurring.

And we cannot reach a 14.7 if we are not supplying adequate fuel to the DI system; if the rail is commanding 1100 psi and only getting 125psi, then we must be lean. Remember, DI cannot batch-fire to make up! Fuel only goes into one cylinder. And you can’t make up a 10x difference with a wider pulse.

Thus, we know two facts of physics invalidate the computer’s reported numbers:
- If we are not supplying adequate fuel, the A/F mix must read lean
- If we are failing to sufficiently combust fuel , the A/F mix must read rich

THEREFORE, either the components (HPFP, sensors) are reporting bad data to the ECU, the ECU is receiving bad data due to a physical issue (i.e. broken wire or loose pin ,) or we have a timing fault which is NOT reflected in the sensor data and reported fault code s.

A nyone who goes to ‘ECU is bad’ as the third item is wrong. We do not have ANY indicators of an internal ECU fault whatsoever! We have a lot of codes but these codes are consistent with the symptom . There are no spurious codes, no wildly bogus codes, no obvious garbage data, and no other electrical symptoms. These are required before jumping to ECU fault.

So, let’s do something I generally would NOT do. But since you don’t have the wiring diagram, it makes the most sense. We’re just going to assume that the wiring harness is intact and fault-free (for these 5 pins) and proceed directly to timing system.

And hey wouldn’t you know it, you mentioned messing with the cam position sensor not being adequately tightened down. Well, based on my personal experience, that right there tells me we already have one problem. Loose cam position sensors are always bad. Either they got knocked loose by impact or the repeated impacts while loose knocked the internals loose - I have NEVER observed this to not be true on ANY engine regardless of make.

But again: we’re getting away from blind part swapping here. This is not productive at this point. Thankfully, it’s a cam position sensor - which is a hall effect sensor. Here’s a quick guide on how to test it. Gotta repeat for each cam position sensor.

If those both pass, you’re going to have to pull timing chain access and check the MECHANICAL timing (not the computer timing) particularly the cam to HPFP interface timing. Unfortunately it’s entirely necessary because the step after that is the crank position sensor.

sony1492 > Spamfeller Loves Nazi Clicks 03/24/2020 at 19:10

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Thank you for putting some thought into this problem, your line of reasoning makes sense here.

Before doing much else I should pull the valve cover and check for proper timing, after all the timing chain sprockets are held solely by torque with no locking lug. Aswell as checking wiring integrity to the ecu from the hpfp solenoid. Probably starting with checking the cam sensor though.

As far as o2: It does reads lean under low pressure conditions and will set a code, but I’ve been ignoring o2 codes since the cat is gone and it will be throwing them regardless. (but I should pay closer attention since it is likely throwing lean codes) Further I’ve yet to really look at it under normal pressure conditions.

A ssuming the computer has no idea what’s happening is a good way of going about this for now, as you said everything its given up to this point has been useless. 

Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) > sony1492 03/25/2020 at 00:16

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You could never convince me to go to a shop but I will say “do as I say, not as I do”. And suggest that maybe have a shop take a look. Just tell them upfront that you dont plan on having them fix it and will gladly pay for any and all diagnosis time. I know that I am at my wits end for my Miata and am pretty sure I need to pull the engine and rebuild to fix a misfire issue. It is probably a good idea to take it to a shop to get another opinion before going and doing that. While my misfire in cylinder 2 and the tested out wet compression poor results on that cylinder are a pretty clear diagnosis to me, its still a mystery the amount of things that can be a coincidence and cause serious issues. 

Ar mini > sony1492 03/25/2020 at 13:25

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I had the same problem with my mini clubman, turns out that the stock coil packs were firing inside the cover. Replaced with rubber booted Bosch coil packs and I’ve been driving it for years now. Hopefully you’ll use my information.

sony1492 > I like cars: Jim Spanfeller is one ugly motherfucker 03/25/2020 at 13:56

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A turbo diesel rabbit would be the dream if I was going that route but true reliability is why I own a civic.

For this specific problem I've spent less the $300 trying to solve it

sony1492 > Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) 03/25/2020 at 14:00

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I dont trust any shops to properly diagnose it, last time I spent the money on diagnostics they found nothing to the tune of $300. Their recommendation was a list of parts I could try throwing at it (that weren’t broken but could cause the given issue). Ended up finding it myself.

I dont knock shops for being this way since diagnostics of this nature are not cost effective. Nobody want to spend $800 for them to still not figure the problem out

sony1492 > LeeNC 03/25/2020 at 14:02

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Didnt know that anti sieze is no longer necessary, I've since replaced those plugs with the old pair to mild success.  Thanks for the tip

I like cars: Jim Spanfeller is one ugly motherfucker > sony1492 03/25/2020 at 18:36

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Oh, $300 isn’t too bad actually.

I just recently picked up a 91 Jetta turbodiesel. It’s fast enough to get out of the way and rolls coal. It’s coooool.

sony1492 > I like cars: Jim Spanfeller is one ugly motherfucker 03/25/2020 at 18:38

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T urbo diesel is the way. M y old w126 was great, you just floor it everywhere making knocking noises and smoke

Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) > sony1492 03/25/2020 at 21:32

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Yeah I suppose. Perhaps trying a more mini specific shop if those were independents or BMW shops. Maybe there is a racing specific shop, I tend to like those shops for my Miata. Sure they cost a little bit more per hour usually and can be slower but they have the specialized knowledge to get things done right at least. Either way, dont give up hope! If the car isnt showing compression issues and based on your descriptions, its some funky fuel/electrical issue instead, then it should be solveable after enough hair pulling.