"Sovande" (sovande)
03/15/2020 at 14:49 • Filed to: None
3
13|
"Sovande" (sovande)
03/15/2020 at 14:49 • Filed to: None | 3
| 13 |
Last weekend I began the install of the Holley Sniper EFI in my 1987 El Camino. I started the day dropping the fuel tank to install a new sender/fuel pump which doesn’t require a return line and then I mounted the throttle body. I got as far the coolant temp sensor before I realized that I didn’t have a place to install it so I had to order a water neck spacer with a 3/8 npt port. Sure wish this was mentioned in the manual or the 20 writeups I perused, but I digress.
Fast forward to yesterday when I was able to spend about 6 hours wiring everything, running fuel hoses, installing the water neck spacer, welding an O2 sensor bung, and generally getting everything ready to go. Once everything was buttoned up, I turned the key to allow the fuel pump to prime the system and then hit the key. It fired right up and settled into a nice smooth idle that was way too high. Once the car reached temp I turned down the idle, let it sort itself out for a few minutes and then dropped it in gear and headed out for a test drive.
The character of the car has completely changed and it feels like it has a bunch more power. The throttle response is instant and I have to pull away from any stop carefully or the wheels spin. A lot. Today is chilly and damp out and stomping on the gas at 25 will also get the wheels spinning. It’s a riot.
Overall, the Sniper system install is easy. I would say the hardest part is dropping the tank for the sender. The rest is simply running wires and fuel hoses. I connected to the car’s hard lines, but were I to do it again I might simply run a fuel line straight from the tank to the throttle body as it would be fewer connections to fail.
The ECU is currently in learning mode which apparently takes a bit of time to get through. After that is completed you can start modifying the base tune if you want. I will also be installing a Holley Hyperspark distributor and CD box so the computer can control the timing. That should be a nice improvement. It currently just uses the HEI distributor which I curved a while ago. It seems to work fine, but more control will be nice.
I have run into one problem which is that my brakes aren’t working. The brake pedal will push all the way to the floor. It will pump back up, but then slowly falls again. Which I think sounds like a leak in the master cylinder? Though there is no apparent visible leak. Or perhaps the check valve on the brake booster has gone bad? I plan on replacing the check valve and then moving on from there. It’s odd that it would coincide with the efi work, but I can’t see how the two are related? The booster has a hose that runs to the throttle body - same as it would with a carb. I am at a loss.
Luckily, I’m “working from home” for the “foreseeable future” so I should have time to tinker.
gettingoldercarguy
> Sovande
03/15/2020 at 15:51 |
|
That is awesome! Thanks for sharing.
|
Sovande
> gettingoldercarguy
03/15/2020 at 16:06 |
|
No problem! I am amazed by the ease with which this whole thing went together. Hopefully I can figure out the brakes... It's not the check valve, I just replaced that. Leads me to believe it's the master cylinder. May be time to drive it over to a real mechanic to get those fixed. I don't know much about brake systems and that's plenty for me.
Full of the sound of the Gran Fury, signifying nothing.
> Sovande
03/15/2020 at 16:07 |
|
Based on previous experience with a Ford Windstar it sounds like you have an internal leak in the master cylinder. Replacing that part fixed that problem. I would think that if it was a brake booster issue you would have a hard pedal since you wouldn’t have the assist.
However...
Years ago I had a brake issue with the 320i. I can’t remember what the problem was (I think it was a soft pedal), and I replaced the master cylinder. That didn’t fix the problem. Whilst waiting for my friend to come out of the house so that we could do a test drive I was repeatedly slamming on the brake whilst listening to some intense music, treating it like it was a bass drum pedal. I must have loosened something in the booster that had atrophied because the brakes worked perfectly from that day on. Turn on some good music and give it a try - it can’t hurt, right?
|
Sovande
> Full of the sound of the Gran Fury, signifying nothing.
03/15/2020 at 16:11 |
|
Man, that’s the best fix ever.
If I push on the reservoir cap (one of the large flat caps in American cars) I can hear air leak past something. If I hold the reservoir firmly against the master cylinder and press on the cap I don't get any air leaking. Seems to be at the main junction between the reservoir and the metal master cylinder piece. Like maybe a bad or dried up seal.
MM54
> Sovande
03/15/2020 at 16:17 |
|
Glad it’s running, now it needs to work on the stopping.
Typically when the booster is bad you will have a very hard pedal (since no vacuum assist) not to-the-floor. The way it needs pumped up sounds like a bad internal seal in the master (bypassing itself) or
maybe
a leaky/stuck caliper or wheel cylinder. If you can’t find any leaks at the wheels, the fluid isn’t going anywhere externally, and you’re sure it’s bled properly, the master cylinder is the likely culprit. Make sure to bench bleed the new one to save some major later-on headache.
|
Sovande
> MM54
03/15/2020 at 16:25 |
|
The brakes were fantastic before the efi was added. They were better than the brakes in my Volvo. Makes me think that maybe something got disconnected, but I can't seem to see anything.
Since I’m not even sure what “bench bleed” means or entails, maybe this is a job for an actual mechanic. Though finding one of those is no picnic either.
|
gettingoldercarguy
> Sovande
03/15/2020 at 16:38 |
|
Are you losing fluid?
|
Sovande
> gettingoldercarguy
03/15/2020 at 16:41 |
|
It looks a little low, but its at the MIN mark. Truthfully, I don't know how full it was, I haven't checked it in two years I'd bet.
|
MM54
> Sovande
03/15/2020 at 16:43 |
|
Bench bleeding is when you take the new MC, fill it with fluid, put it in a vise or similar, and route the outlets right back into the reservoir. You then pump the piston until it stops blowing bubbles, indicating the whole system is full of fluid. This can be nearly impossible to do in-car since the air tends to move back and forth a bit in the line, and get sucked back into the MC with the extra length of line it can occupy (vs a couple inches in this case before coming up as bubbled).
In any case, brakes are one of those things that while simple can be a pain in the ass, and
since they’re probably the most safety-critical part of any car if you’re not comfortable working on them, don’t.
|
Full of the sound of the Gran Fury, signifying nothing.
> Sovande
03/15/2020 at 16:46 |
|
It sounds like you’ve narrowed down the location of the problem. Here’s a possible cheap fix that I use on computers, particularly printer rollers. There’s a nasty, noxious chemical that I use called Rubber Renue ( https://www.mgchemicals.com/products/cleaning-products-for-electronics/cleaners/specialty-cleaners/rubber-renue-408a-408b ) that softens hard rubber items and makes them sticky again. Perhaps you could pull out that seal and give some of this stuff a try. I’ve never tried it on a car, but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work given what it’s designed to do.
MoCamino
> Sovande
03/15/2020 at 17:24 |
|
That is very cool. My EC has a (slightly tired) 305 with the original Quadrajet carb. Those carbs run great when they are set up correctly. They will run “good enough” for a really long time when set up poorly. Guess which state mine is in?
I would love to drop an EFI setup in mine, but the price is a bit of a hurdle for me right now. Nonetheless, eventually I’ll have to. I’ve also considered a junkyard TBI swap. Not as good a EFI, but better than where I am now.
I do have some experience with the brakes suddenly degrading. Turns out one of my rear brake cylinders sprung a leak. When I went to replace it, the old line broke. Running the new line was a pain. The “made to fit” lines were really pricey so I found a generic one that was pretty close and bent it (with the right tool!) to fit. What was worse was getting the cylinder retaining clips out. Worse than that was getting the new ones back in. Finally gave up and replaced the clips with a bolt in clamp that was used later on S-10s. (They used the same size cylinders.)
|
Sovande
> MoCamino
03/15/2020 at 17:37 |
|
The efi definitely wasn’t cheap and neither were the upgraded ignition parts. Right about $2000 all in for everything. Not the cheapest solution, but I am really impressed after just a few short drives. I haven't even really opened it up yet because I'd need a long way to slow down.
I am going to use the HEI distributor and carb from the El Camino to replace the computer controlled quadrajet on the 305 in my Caprice wagon. That thing will barely run at this point. Long term goal is an LS or 350 swap - whichever is cheaper.
shop-teacher
> Sovande
03/16/2020 at 00:24 |
|
That's awesome when a product lives up to its promise :)