"shop-teacher" (shop-teacher)
02/12/2020 at 09:16 • Filed to: Codelopnik
0
26|
"shop-teacher" (shop-teacher)
02/12/2020 at 09:16 • Filed to: Codelopnik | 0
| 26 |
It’s time to come to grips with the fact that my truck is old enough, that it’s time to buy a code reader. The check engine light went on this morning. It’s not flashing, and the truck is running fine, but I need to see what’s up. It was on for about a day and a half right after Christmas too, and then went away. I went to O’Rei lly’s last week and had them read the code for the airbag light. I have the sensor and am going to replace it when I do the front bumper, which is ordered.
Anyways, I want a reader that can do more than just engine codes. I’m open to bluetooth or self contained code readers, but I really know jack squat about them. What should I be looking for, or do you have any recommendations?
Nibby
> shop-teacher
02/12/2020 at 09:30 |
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0x00000F 4
Discerning
> shop-teacher
02/12/2020 at 09:35 |
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Well, anything inexpensive will only read codes. Some, like ultragauge, can also read any signals being sent from sensors. Rpm, water temp, etc.
If you want to get any deeper, you are looking at shop grade scan tools. These require an expensive device and tokens or keys to access types of vehicles.
An actual scan tool can read manufacturer codes that a normal code reader can’t see. Some of them also record events and have tips for specific models. You can also change parameters sometimes.
You could also look into hptuners. It can do many of the same things AND allow you to change fueling, spark, redline, and more. You can do just about anything. It’s a tuning tool primarily, but it works well for diagnostic from my understanding.
You can get a tool to access hptuners for 300 bucks and I think the license is only 100 or so.
A cheap professional scan tool is likely about half that total price with license.
vondon302
> shop-teacher
02/12/2020 at 09:37 |
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A wifi obd2 connector and torqe app work good for me. I had problems with the bluetooth one connecting to my phone.
There's better solutions out there tho but it's cheap and data logs.
MasterMario - Keeper of the V8s
> shop-teacher
02/12/2020 at 09:37 |
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I use the Torque app with an OBD2 bluetooth connector. The app is $5 and a bluetooth connector can be had for $10-$20. I think it works great, though I’ve never used the dedicated scanners either. You can also use the app as an additional set of gauges if you want which is cool.
HoustonRunner
> vondon302
02/12/2020 at 09:46 |
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Ditto.
someassemblyrequired
> shop-teacher
02/12/2020 at 09:50 |
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I’ve had an OBD-Link USB scanner that works great and I’ve had for close to a decade
- $35 for the corded one and a bit more for wireless. They are a lot more than the Chinesium ones, but they have a lot faster data rates
and are
more reliable:
They come with software that’s actually pretty decent, but the wireless ones will also work with Torque on mobile devices.
I’ve heard the Autel handheld
units are pretty good for the price too
.
Tekamul
> shop-teacher
02/12/2020 at 09:51 |
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The basic $15 BT scanner + the Torque app is usually enough.
Ju st a note : warmed engine, at idle, oil pressure maxed out? Do you have a bad sending unit? So look for a P0522 or P0523
notsomethingstructural
> shop-teacher
02/12/2020 at 09:54 |
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ABS and SRS code readers are CONSIDERABLY more expensive than an OBD only one. Having bought a few different readers who do a bunch of different things and then never use any of the features other than an OBD code puller, just buy a cheap OBD code puller.
Long_Voyager94
> shop-teacher
02/12/2020 at 09:59 |
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It’s a GM, just run it like that, o nce you start fixing it more things will break.......
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notsomethingstructural
> notsomethingstructural
02/12/2020 at 09:59 |
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Like, there’s no reason to spend $100+ on a universal one, because inevitably you’ll end up with a Nissan and want to program a key which will need the Nissan specific software and the software compatible cable which is different than the one you already have. Not that I have experience in this exact situation, no sir.
I have an ELM based USB cable, a non-ELM USB cable, a WiFi dongle, a decent CReader and I think I’m forgetting one. The point is any optional purchase is going to be moot when you need a specific tool for a specific function and unless you’re dropping like $2k for a device there is no way it will do everything, and it’s guaranteed you’ll want to do something weird and unsupported by a universal tool. Even something like kicking TPMS into relearn mode sometimes requires weird shit because the TPMS module isn’t on the OBD port.
J ust cut your losses and get something for like $20-25 now and save the rest for specific situations later.
adamftw
> Tekamul
02/12/2020 at 10:14 |
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My oil pressure sender has been bad for weeks and it never threw a code. It’s a GMT800, so my bet is an EVAP code.
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adamftw
> shop-teacher
02/12/2020 at 10:15 |
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Either buy a cheap one, or spend a few hundred and buy a real one that will do all the cool stuff including two-way communication. My $.02.
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shop-teacher
> Tekamul
02/12/2020 at 10:32 |
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I’m sure the sending unit is bad. The oil pressure has been reading max since November. I’m just waiting for spring to deal with that.
GoodIdeaAtTheTime
> shop-teacher
02/12/2020 at 10:44 |
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Look for a GM tech 2 with CANdi module. They can be had for cheap now. I think I paid $175 for mine. Not bad for the GM factory tool.
Wacko
> shop-teacher
02/12/2020 at 10:48 |
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I have a wired ultra gauge
http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/
Standalone unit that has 60+ gauges and can read and reset codes too. Also can tell you mpgs temp.
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Tekamul
> adamftw
02/12/2020 at 11:04 |
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The codes are tied to the voltage and if it exceeds expected range. It's not just about failing, but about how it's failing. The code will answer that quickly.
Mercedes Streeter
> Long_Voyager94
02/12/2020 at 11:07 |
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Can’t. A c heck e ngine l ight automatically fails your emissions test and thus you can’t renew your registration sticker. Illinois’ northern counties are mean like that.
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Mercedes Streeter
> shop-teacher
02/12/2020 at 11:09 |
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So long as you aren’t looking for hardcore diagnostics (like airbag faults or codes hidden from generic scanners), I’d recommend a cheap universal generic scanner like an UltraGauge. You can use it in almost any car, reset check engine lights, and get direct readings from reporting sensors.
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Long_Voyager94
> Mercedes Streeter
02/12/2020 at 12:00 |
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Clearly this is why you register somewhere without emissions testing.....
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shop-teacher
> Long_Voyager94
02/12/2020 at 12:58 |
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I tried that with the RallyMetro. You have to prove that you live in those areas. Luckily I got my emissions tested like three days before the first check engine light came on, so I have a bit over two years before I run into that problem.
I want to keep this truck for a long time. I’m going to have the rocker panels redone this summer, so I want to know what’s going on with it.
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Mercedes Streeter
> Long_Voyager94
02/12/2020 at 13:28 |
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I thought about doing that, but have found out that I’d basically either have to change my address on my ID or transfer the titles of my vehicles.
Or...just buy diesels! lol
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Discerning
> shop-teacher
02/12/2020 at 13:30 |
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I still think you should get a performance tuner like hptuners.
You can read all the codes and change plenty of fields.
You could probably also find some basic tunes for fuel economy or performance. Small changes, realistically, but fun.
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Discerning
> GoodIdeaAtTheTime
02/12/2020 at 13:34 |
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Te ch 2 is where it’s at if you want to be able to read everything, communicate with the truck, and have it run tests and cycles.
Can’ t be beat - especially if you are chasing down airbags, abs, bcm , etc.
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Long_Voyager94
> shop-teacher
02/12/2020 at 15:59 |
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I was mostly joking anyway.
But I will say my uncle did for for years while he lived in Milwaukee County. He registered and titled the vehicles under my Grandparents name/address, then he’d just switch vehicles every month or so.
I would bet it’s something stupid like a failing MAF or O2 sensor.
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Long_Voyager94
> Mercedes Streeter
02/12/2020 at 15:59 |
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M y uncle did it for for years while he lived in Milwaukee County. He registered and titled the vehicles under my Grandparents name/address, then he’d just switch vehicles every month or so.
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shop-teacher
> Long_Voyager94
02/12/2020 at 16:36 |
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I don’t have a family member who lives out of the emissions testing area.
It probably is something stupid. There is no performance change. I just want to know what it is.