"jminer" (jminer)
10/20/2020 at 15:55 • Filed to: None
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"jminer" (jminer)
10/20/2020 at 15:55 • Filed to: None | 1
| 10 |
Akio !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! today about changing the color of some metal rivets. I suggested a bluing pen designed for guns. A couple of folks commented about it and Just Jeepin requested pics and more info on the process so here ya go!
Also yes even though it’s called bluing, the color generated is very much black.
I’m packing my house now so you don’t get an in depth analysis of bluing tools and techniques but here’s a quick and dirty introduction complete with shitty pics.
I mentioned a Presto Gun Blue pen that I use for small areas and touch ups
It works well for small areas like nicks and scratches. It’s also pretty odorless even though it kicks off a chemical reaction in the metal.
Out target piece of metal:
It’s a cheap razor scraper, the first piece of untreated metal I found that I don’t care about. It feels like a mild steel that’s uncoated but has a slightly reflective finish. There was zero prep done to it, didn’t even wash it (you should definitely do that).
I rubbed the marker on it for probably 30 seconds then after that color set another 30 seconds over it again to get it evenish.
Definitely an uneven finish, but that’s to be expected after zero prep and a pen designed for tiny areas. If you’re more careful than me though you could turn that into a decent finish.
If you’re looking to do a larger area I’d recommend !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! - it’s awesome.
Most gun shops carry these things, and if yours doesn’t (or you don’t want to go into a gun shop now) Amazon does too.
Thanks for coming along with me on this brief tour of cold bluing of metal.
Just Jeepin'
> jminer
10/20/2020 at 15:58 |
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Thanks!
For Sweden
> jminer
10/20/2020 at 15:59 |
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Bluing pens? What is this? Amateur hour?
Use the real thing!
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jminer
> Just Jeepin'
10/20/2020 at 15:59 |
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Happy to oblige! I love sharing all my random bits of knowledge and without coworkers to ramble at in person my wife is quite tired of me going on like a professor about this and that. So onto Oppo with it!
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jminer
> For Sweden
10/20/2020 at 16:01 |
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There is definitely a crazy level or variety and options you can get into here. Also you’ve got the old fashioned ‘get it hot and coat it in oil’ method too.
So from me you get a super-simple introduction to the most basic bluing you can do.
Snuze: Needs another Swede
> jminer
10/20/2020 at 16:06 |
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I’ve blued a number of things before, including refinishing an entire antique CZ pistol. The bluing pens are good for touch up, but if you really want a nice blued finish, you should just get the actual solution. I use the Birchwood Casey Super Blue. And here’s what I’ve found works best:
Remove any rust and then s and, polish, etc. or whatever else you need to do to achieve the desired surface finish on the part .
Have a beer
Clean part with denatured alcohol and allow to dry. From this point on wear rubber gloves so you don’t get skin oil on the part, and don’t get bluing on your hands
Submerge part in bluing solution or b rush it on the part. Wait a few minutes for the chemical reaction to occur and then wipe the part down. Re-apply a few coats to get a nice, deep black finish.
Oil the part - I like CLP (Cleaner-Lubricant-Protector) gun oil, and another popular one is Kroil. I recall that there are certain oils to avoid because they contain certain things that don’t play well with the bluing, but I don’t have a list handy, so I’ll recommend CLP and Kroil because I know they work.
Have a beer
Leave the part in an oil bath overnight. Alternatively, slather oil on and wrap it up in syran wrap or something and let it sit overnight .
Unwrap/unsubmerge part and remove excess oil.
Have a beer.
The oiling part helps do something or other with the finish to make it stronger and stay longer. I don’t remember all the chemistry behind it, but I’ve blued a few things and this method has always worked for me. The beer part is particularly important.
Jb boin
> For Sweden
10/20/2020 at 16:08 |
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Now i get where Bradley B. get hi s salty comments from !
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jminer
> Snuze: Needs another Swede
10/20/2020 at 16:19 |
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Excellent addition. I’ve never done the oiling after or the oil bath but I imagine it would help.
The prep is the most important part without a doubt, just like with painting.
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Snuze: Needs another Swede
> jminer
10/20/2020 at 16:27 |
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Prep is key, definitely. In particular getting all the “regular” (red) rust off is very important since bluing is basically rusting the part anyways, just trying to form a different kind (Fe3O4 instead of Fe2O3).
As I said, I’m not sure exactly what the oiling does, but I’ve done it and everything I’ve blued has lasted a long time. The biggest things I’ve done are a “ barrel in white” and the aforementioned CZ and both have held up beautifully after a lot of shooting. I’ve got a slightly newer CZ I’m thinking about selling, but if I don’t I may blue it for fun. CZ makes absolutely fantastic guns, mechanically speaking, but on their older guns the surface finishing leaves something to be desired.
One other thing, I seem to remember there are some different bluing formulas out there. In particular, “regular” blue only works on “regular” steel (i.e. carbon steel, mild steel, etc.). There’s a different formulation for stainless steel. I think the Super Blue I mentioned will blue both regular and stainless steel.
CompactLuxuryFan
> jminer
10/20/2020 at 16:36 |
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jminer
> CompactLuxuryFan
10/20/2020 at 16:40 |
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HA!