"benjrblant" (benjblant)
08/11/2019 at 22:53 • Filed to: the spot doesn't have a tag yet, mtb, yay! bikes!
5
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"benjrblant" (benjblant)
08/11/2019 at 22:53 • Filed to: the spot doesn't have a tag yet, mtb, yay! bikes! | 5
| 17 |
Here’s the (circa?) 2012 Spot Rocker Titanium frame. It’s handmade in Golden, CO and there’s no stamp or serial number on it. If I’m not mistaken, the welder is still in the state and working for a different frame builder, but I’ll have to look into this.
This is a frame I’ve oogled since it first came out, but at $3800 for the frame only, it was always well out of my reach. Recently, this one came up on craigslist and I fortunately snagged it and a period correct Reba XX fork for what I felt was an excellent deal. I’m planning my next moves for this build, you can keep up with it in this series!
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The Plan - A Spreadsheet, Of Course.
So if you’re not familiar, I !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! like !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! . I’m (usually) a pretty organized person and I find spreadsheets are a great way to organize and visualize data that I’m considering. Yes, databases. I know. Move along now.
For this build, I’ve created yet another! So exciting. I know. Gather ‘round children:
I actually quite like this one. A checked box changes the row color to green and the total cost (F1) and total weight (E1) are summed. It’s somewhat handy for seeing how different build options can affect the total weight and cost.
You may notice the single cog and lack of a derailleur. This will be a single speed MTB build. This frame could accomodate a rear derailleur, but there are no braze-ons for cable routing and I’m not interested in adding them. Keep it simple. Keep it singlespeed!
This doesn’t mean there aren’t other factors to consider, and I’ll detail those out below. Presently the biggest consideration is how to get this frame rolling.
As designed - Period Correct
This frame came with a Reba XX fork, the same as my Niner SIR hardtail. It’s a 1 1/8" steer tube, 100mm travel, and 20x110 non-boost thru-axle fork complete with a remote lockout. It’s by no means a bad fork and at 1850g, it’s heft is quite manageable. This would, however, limit me to a 20mm axle front hub which is available, but hard to find in the used market. Likewise, the dropout inserts that came with the frame are for a 10x135mm QR rear hub, again becoming more difficult to find these days. However, if I’m investing in a wheelset- should it fit the build now, or should it be a more current standard in the event that I don’t keep this build until I die?
Estimated cost: $500-1400 for a used/new wheelset.
More Current Hub Standards
I could sell the fork and replace it with a newer fork that would accept a 15x100 thru axle, but finding said fork with a straight 1 1/8" steer tube is also not easy. Most forks and frames now have a tapered head tube taking a 1 1/2" race on the bottom and 1 1/8" on the top. While this would make sourcing wheels easier, I’d likely need to shop the used market for a long time or spring for a new fork which is not cheap.
Likewise, the sensible option here would also be to update the rear dropout inserts to 12x142mm. Fortunately this is easy as the parts are readily available from Paragon Machine Works and would only set me back $75 or so.
Estimated cost: $500-1k for a used/new fork and $500-1400 for a used/new wheelset.
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And the planning continues. I’m confident that if I’m patient with this build and plan things smartly, I could easily have this build done with all great parts and I could very realistically be looking at a sub-9kg bicycle.
1800g for the frame! It feels silly to pick it up.
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PowderHound
> benjrblant
08/11/2019 at 23:03 |
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Nice! I like this bike direction happening on Oppo. I have work to do on my two main bikes and have an old frame I’m still working on stripping down. My mountain bike decided the brake lever wanted to stick today but I got busy after and it could be a simple cleaning issue and my commuter only shifts every 2 or 3 gears . Lots of work to do this week!
Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
> benjrblant
08/11/2019 at 23:08 |
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I would definitely update the rear to 12x 142 or 12 x 148. Since you have the fork just get a wheel set that has interchangeable end caps so you can run the 110x20 through axle. The only ones that come to mind are Hope and specialized house brand roval. I would imagine I9 can do the same. I’m excited to see how this turned out, titanium frames are great, they never wear out.
TheRealBicycleBuck
> benjrblant
08/11/2019 at 23:28 |
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I enjoy both bikes and spreadsheets, so content that covers both is especially satisfying!
facw
> benjrblant
08/11/2019 at 23:45 |
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I’ve been disappointed by bikes on CL. There was so much decent stuff available in June, but it felt like everything dried up in July, leaving only really expensive bikes (like $2500+, I’m hoping to spend < $1500, and <$1000 if I’m buying on CL) or bikes with either small or large frames. Seems like I missed my window...
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benjrblant
> facw
08/11/2019 at 23:46 |
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Want my hardtail? https://denver.craigslist.org/bik/6954370873.html
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benjrblant
> Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
08/11/2019 at 23:50 |
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12x142 would be a matter of changing the sliders, but I don’t think boost spacing is possible as the seatstays and chainstays are too narrow.
I think getting new wheels to fit the 20mm front and 12mm rear would be the way to go. I’ve been very happy with my i9 305/hydra wheelset that’s on the full suspension and that hub would be amazing on the singlespeed too. I believe they make endcaps to adapt their hubs to 15x100/20x110 and 12x142/10x135.
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facw
> benjrblant
08/11/2019 at 23:52 |
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Sorry, looking for a road bike. I’ve never actually done real mountain biking, but I have enough accidents on pavement to suggest that mountain biking trails would be a bad idea...
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benjrblant
> facw
08/11/2019 at 23:54 |
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Naw, MTB is great because it’s never your fault! see:
-Where’d that root come from?
-That rock was really slick
-it’s too dry
-it’s too wet
-that corner was tighter than i remembered it
-the sun was in my eyes
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facw
> benjrblant
08/12/2019 at 00:01 |
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That’s nice, but I’m less worried about embarrassment and more worried about injury. My physical therapy schedule is already a bit full these days.
Grindintosecond
> benjrblant
08/12/2019 at 00:16 |
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I found a Craigslist Paketa Magnesium alloy near my size. Grabbed it and after 300mi just couldn’t overcome the custom seat tube geometry....slack for someone with stupid long hamstrings, but in a compact frame. I just couldn’t get the saddle far enough forward. Sold it. Made $50. It’s hard to tell what you got but I hope it was a standard company geometry, not some weird custom that looked right at first. But it did build up light.
SilentButNotReallyDeadly...killed by G/O Media
> benjrblant
08/12/2019 at 02:37 |
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You need to check how parallel those rear stays are before going to 142. If they have moved (almost certainly) then the through axle won’t line up properly...ask me how I know.
What I would do though is change the brake side dropout to a post mount style.
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benjrblant
> SilentButNotReallyDeadly...killed by G/O Media
08/12/2019 at 08:49 |
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Are you referring to this measurement?
If so, I’m getting 142mm at the back of the slider and 142.2 mm at the front.
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SilentButNotReallyDeadly...killed by G/O Media
> benjrblant
08/12/2019 at 09:12 |
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Nope. Though that is a good result!
The measure I’m referring to is how vertically true the two slides (the welded ends of the stays) are to each other with respect to the BB shell.
I f you look along the chainstays from the back of the frame...it’s a question of whether the ends are in the same horizontal plane. Mine are about 2-4 mm out. That was enough for the axle to not be able to pick up the thread...
Try measuring the distance from the centre of the seat tube between the seat stay junction to the end of each welded in slide. Or set the seat tube perfectly plumb then see if the two stay ends are plumb with each other....and the ground. That’s all the measur ing ideas I have...
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benjrblant
> SilentButNotReallyDeadly...killed by G/O Media
08/12/2019 at 10:37 |
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Ah, yes. I'll inspect this in the evening and report back.
Itsmemupos
> benjrblant
08/12/2019 at 19:52 |
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I’d definitely recommend a Hunt Wheelset. Great spec and quality for the price. No dedicated SS hub option though.
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benjrblant
> Itsmemupos
08/12/2019 at 20:04 |
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Hm, I’m not familiar with them.
I’m probably going with a shimano drive body, a single cog, and a spacer kit. this would allow me to fine tune chainline and reuse the wheelset for anothernon-ss bike in the future if needed.
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benjrblant
> SilentButNotReallyDeadly...killed by G/O Media
09/10/2019 at 19:12 |
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Now I’m questioning this build:
https://oppositelock.kinja.com/pt2-the-questioning-1838016675
Curious to hear your opinon!