Educate me on rust repairs

"Ram_Riot_6" (tony-ram-riot) 07/03/2019 at 14:20 • Filed to: None

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I sent out for a few estimates or general ideas of what some rust repair may cost on my truck. I wanted to have it repaired without bondo which may be the wrong way to go about it.

Only one place has responded so far but estimated 30k for sheet metal work. That’s a bit rich for me so I’m wondering what my other options are other than let if rust away and replace the cab/bed down the line with a part truck with less rust. See the pics for reference.

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I eventually plan for a full restoration new but the majority of that work is still about two years and just dont want it to completely rot away in that time.

Anyone have experience with rust repairs like this and is using bondo that bad or can it be done? Is it worth repairing or just sourcing parts in better condition?

And a pic of it from a better angle for your time.

CarsofFortLangley - Oppo Forever > Ram_Riot_6 07/03/2019 at 14:29

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As a fellow rusty ram owner, I too am interested.

RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars > Ram_Riot_6 07/03/2019 at 14:30

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Stupid question, but would it be easier to try and find a bed and cab with less rust, swap them over and then get it repainted, etc?

2Fast2Furious: Rotary Powered > Ram_Riot_6 07/03/2019 at 14:33

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I have a feeling new aftermarket parts may be available, like that roof skin, based on if that body style is popular (I don't know) but I'd check that first since those are usually just weld on new metal type jobs, which is the best way to eradicate that rust too my knowledge

Ram_Riot_6 > RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars 07/03/2019 at 14:36

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I have been looking for a while and it would be easier. I’m not too concerned with the finish inside the bed as I’m going to use it for a truck so itll get abused over time anyways. Most of the cabs I’ve looked at are in a similar state as mine with rust in the same places. If it were a Chevy or a Ford it would be significantly easier in sourcing parts due to the number sold vs the Dodge. I'm thinking as more shops get back to me I'll continue the hunt for a decent parts truck to save time/money in the long run.

Ram_Riot_6 > 2Fast2Furious: Rotary Powered 07/03/2019 at 14:37

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If it were a Ford or a Chevy itd be pretty easy to find parts. Dodge didnt sell in great numbers until the 1994 model came out. I've looked a few times but not all sheet metal is available new.

2Fast2Furious: Rotary Powered > Ram_Riot_6 07/03/2019 at 14:40

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Ahh I see, that is a shame, although I guess it does make your build more unique considering that less people build them

functionoverfashion > Ram_Riot_6 07/03/2019 at 14:40

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My ‘72 was similar in terms of overall condition - looked pretty good from 20 feet, but up close there was lots of stuff like that. Multiple shops basically told me it would be easier to find new cab, bed, doors. I didn’t want to do that, so I did nothing. The current owner has done a lot to it, but still nothing to the body. It’s kind of all-or-nothing once it’s the way it is, based on the pics. It’s in perfectly serviceable condition, and yet, prohibitively expensive to repair unless you’re doing it yourself. Sad, but true. 

I like cars: Jim Spanfeller is one ugly motherfucker > Ram_Riot_6 07/03/2019 at 15:00

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...30k? Shit, it’s BOF, just wire wheel the rust away and bondo the shit out of it IMO.

Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) > Ram_Riot_6 07/03/2019 at 15:01

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If that is how the top of it looks, how bad is the bottom? Like the frame and anything else on the bottom of the car. If you are already planning full restoration , might as well make this part of that project. Don’t half ass something with bondo, that would be a waste of time/money/effort. 

Ram_Riot_6 > functionoverfashion 07/03/2019 at 15:02

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Yeah, I’m leaning towards the do nothing to the body. I love the way it looks right now and would like to preserve it but I can source a new cab and bed  down the line when the time comes as repairs seem to not be a reasonable option. Love the truck but I'm not going to go broke over it.

Mercedes Streeter > Ram_Riot_6 07/03/2019 at 15:22

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Surface rust is easy. Wire wheel it away, apply some rust protectant (POR-15?) then repaint.

As for rust holes, I plan to fix my Ranger by grinding all the rust away, sealing with protectant, then making a patch out of something like JB Weld Steelstik or a having a friend weld a metal patch.

Long_Voyager, Now With More Caravanny Goodness > Ram_Riot_6 07/03/2019 at 16:17

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Cut out rust, patch in with new metal, grind tacks smooth, use light glaze of bondo to get it straight.

RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars > Ram_Riot_6 07/03/2019 at 16:57

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Good luck!

Ram_Riot_6 > Long_Voyager, Now With More Caravanny Goodness 07/03/2019 at 17:16

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That’s what I was expecting to be done but 30k seemed way too much. I’d give it a go myself but dont have the tools or space to do it

Sovande > Ram_Riot_6 07/03/2019 at 18:01

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It would be cheaper to find a better example o f the same truck. Metal work won’t be cheap. And you will end up with a $30,000 truck that's worth half that. 

Ram_Riot_6 > Sovande 07/03/2019 at 19:13

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I’m already aware I’ll likely be putting 20-30k into a 15k truck by the end of it. It’s a family truck so it’s a money pit but I want to keep it but not be ridiculous. Being unfamiliar with metal work I was unsure the cost or even a general idea but was already thinking it would be cheaper/easier to find a replacement cab and bed.

Dash-doorhandle-6 cyl none the richer > Ram_Riot_6 07/03/2019 at 19:22

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30k is the “go away kid” price. Rust repair just isn’t done in production body shops,  it takes up space that could be making money for old men.  I’ve seen that dodge roof rust before,  anything is repairable but that is fixed with a bunch of fibreglass or a better cab. not all Dodge cabs do that, but the ones that do are worse than they look.    I’d fibreglass the roof or just leave it. if you take your truck apart, then you can’t go pick up a half ton of stuff.   

Ram_Riot_6 > Dash-doorhandle-6 cyl none the richer 07/03/2019 at 19:49

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Yeah, that was my thought as well and the quote was from a restoration shop as typical repair shops dont have the experience working with  repairs like this to make me feel comfortable in getting any work done.

Sovande > Ram_Riot_6 07/03/2019 at 19:53

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Gotcha. Good luck! 

Old-Busted-Hotness > Ram_Riot_6 07/04/2019 at 07:11

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You’ve got two kinds of rust there:

Texas Rust, where the paint’s burned off and only the surface has oxidized. Easy peasy, hit it with a wire wheel and primer and it’ll be good for another 30 years.

Real Rust, at the leading edge of the roof. This is the kind that you always find more of once you start in on it. There’s at least 3 pieces of metal there: roof skin, inner and outer windshield frame. Maybe an inner reinforcement. You think only the skin is rusted, but you’ll find the others have rust to varying degrees, too. Only way to find out how far it goes is to take it apart, and then you’re committed.

If you can’t find a better cab in Texas, you’re not gonna find one anywhere.

It wouldn’t be too hard to fabricate patch panels, but it’s a hell of a lot of work. Not 30K worth, though. The thing is, you have to be able to get to the repair area. Easiest way is to take the cab off and drop it on the ground. Then the repair area is down at working level. You could do it with the windshield out (and it has to come out anyway) , sitting on the dash and/or hood.

What I’d do: pull the windshield and drip rail trim, media blast the repair area, hit the inside of the cavity with a rust encapsulator, and fill the rust with a metal-infused filler. It’d be a “good enough” repair that won’t put the truck down for a month. You could do it in a weekend. And since you don’t have to worry about salt, it’ll last 10 years or more.

Ram_Riot_6 > Old-Busted-Hotness 07/04/2019 at 20:58

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Thanks for the info and advice. I unfortunately wont have to space to do any significant work for at least two years but would have no issue tearing into it myself if I did. Ill likely just continue to keep an eye out for a new cab/bed with little to no rust and make the swap once I  source one and have the time/space to deal with it. It’s no where near rusted through the cab now so I should still have another few years before it reaches a critical usability state.

Long_Voyager, Now With More Caravanny Goodness > Ram_Riot_6 07/08/2019 at 07:18

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$30k does seem high, but doing body work requires a LOT of labor to get it right, and prices on stuff have been on the rise, so it may be about right.