Miata teardown has begun!

"Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)" (rduncan5678) 04/03/2019 at 15:58 • Filed to: None

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Yesterday I finally began the process of taking apart the Miata in order to prep it for an engine rebuild. It has only taken me like 4 months from when I stopped driving the car due to an obvious rod knock until I have turned the first wrench on the repair process. Now, I am still not entirely sure that the rebuilt engine will ever go back in this shell, but that is later’s problem since no matter what, taking it apart comes first. It took me so long because my apartment does not allow me to so much as check my oil level so any sort of work done there is a no-go. This past Saturday, I finally had some help in getting my car relocated from home to work where I have access to a shop that I can do most of the work on the car. Unfortunately, I found out that some sort of stupid safety regulation bans any engine cranes from being used at this shop. Somehow in the infinite wisdom of these regulations, actually removing an engine is not expressly banned so “more creative” measures of removal are fine, even if its actually more dangerous. But my general plan right now is to detach all of the stuff in the way, remove accessories and fluids, and then move the car someplace else for a quick engine removal. I can just call up AAA for a free tow and hopefully they dont ask too many questions about why it doesnt run.

Anyways, so far I have been documenting everything I removed and labeled and bagged all of the bolts that came out. Hopefully this will make any attempt at reassembly a little more streamlined. In the two hours that I spent working on the car I accomplished the following:

Shock Tower Brace removed

Intake removed

Radiator drained and removed

Spark plugs and coils removed

Valve Cover removed (I put it back on without bolts for storage just to keep dirt out)

Wiring harness completely disconnected

Miscellaneous bolts loosened for the throttle body and accesories

I also made a to-do list of everything else that I would like to get done next time I get over to the shop:

Remove belts

Remove alternator

Remove throttle body

Remove hoses

Remove exhaust manifold

Remove bracing from bottom of car

Remove exhaust

Drain motor oil

Drain trans gear oil

Drain diff gear oil

Remove the wiring harness from engine bay to get it out of the way (needs replacing anyways)

Other things that I know have to get done but will take longer and require me to research how to do it:

Drain and possibly remove the AC stuff

Drain and possible remove the PS

Remove transmission

This is mostly stuff I should be able to finish with a couple of long days this month at some point. And then spend a day to tow it to the other shop, pluck the engine out, toss the car in a corner, and then start the rebuilding process. I may have purchased another Miata by that point if I find the right one, so it will determine how large of a priority the rebuild is. Either way, I want to accomplish it but it will be mainly as a backup engine if I buy another car. Unless I somehow find a clean car with a crap engine but most cars I have looked at have BOTH crap engine and crap body. But the only other combo I seem to find are decent engines with terrible everything else. Or the price is just too much for how shitty it really is, regardless of what the seller thinks they have...

Looking at a couple of promising leads in the near future but I won’t be holding my breathe too much, communication with these sellers has been questionable and I havent seen the cars in person yet .

‘99 10th anniversary edition that is well maintained and looks great. Was supposed to look at it Monday but the seller stopped responding day of. Also listed for $5500 and mileage in the 115k range and same maintenance done. If the seller ever responds again and it hasn’t sold, im still highly interested in this one.

TorqueToYield > Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) 04/03/2019 at 16:11

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Really disappointed that your lead image isn’t a 10 mm wrench.

sony1492 > Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) 04/03/2019 at 16:13

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I never realized how overpriced Miatas are

AestheticsInMotion > sony1492 04/03/2019 at 16:18

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They've been climbing steadily. Those NBs aren't bad, it's the NAs that will really get you nowadays. Still hard to beat in terms of smiles per dollar, assuming you have twisty roads! 

AestheticsInMotion > Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) 04/03/2019 at 16:18

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Did I miss the part with an LS swap

lone_liberal > TorqueToYield 04/03/2019 at 16:18

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They were going to photograph one, but they couldn’t find it.

ITA97, now with more Jag @ opposite-lock.com > Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) 04/03/2019 at 16:21

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There’s a bunch of fluids on that list that there is no reason to drain for an engine swap. For example, unbolt the power steering pump (with the hoses still attached) from the bracket and secure it out of the way to the side.

If you can’t use a hoist, there’s other options. Got access to a forklift? If so, it’s a superior option to a hoist anyway. If you’ve got a lift, you can lift the car off the engine instead of the other way around. Disconnect your hoses and wiring, unbolt the upper and strut mounts and front and rear subframes from the body (leaving the PPF in place) and then lift the chassis leaving the roller skate of the suspension and drivetrain.

Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) > ITA97, now with more Jag @ opposite-lock.com 04/03/2019 at 16:47

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The reason for fluid drain is that everything really is in need of replacement anyways. Gear oil for trans and diff have like 50k on them and PS has 210k on it. But more importantly, I want the option to be able to dispose of the thing and de-fluid-ing the car at that shop is allowed all I want. California has annoying rules about fluid disposal otherwise.

I definitely could do one of the “other methods” but it seemed easiest to do it elsewhere. The front subframe rust is not really ignorable which has been the dilemma from the start. The driver’s side is completely cracked in half and the passenger side is well on it’s way there as well. Its common on NB’s from salt-using areas.

I like the body disconnect from PPF, that seems interesting! 

Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) > sony1492 04/03/2019 at 16:52

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Yeah, its annoying to find one below $5k that isnt otherwise destroyed in some way. I had looked at a ‘99 listed for $3100 but it had a salvage title due to side impact (quarter panel looked repainted and probably just filled with bondo) , worn paint on bumpers, raceland coilovers, headlights held in only by wires, 160k miles, and an obnoxious noise purported to be “just the tires”. While that was a good price for a Miata, the issues were enough to scare me away.

Ive seen some in the mid-upper $4k range that were good but usually sell quick and/or have issues that I dont want to deal with. Right around $5k is usually where it becomes good but I expect near zero issues or red flags if I am going to pay close to that. And usually the sellers dont seem to be aware of why I am concerned about very concerning things. Wish I could buy from someone knowledgable about miatas rather than random boomers who KNOW WHAT THEY HAVE.

Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) > lone_liberal 04/03/2019 at 16:53

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this

Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) > TorqueToYield 04/03/2019 at 16:55

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Oh it was a random google search. I would highly doubt I have many if any at all, 24mm or 27mm fasteners in this car haha. 10mm and 12mm would surely be the most popular although there are plenty of 14mm and 17mm for other larger stuff. Also the random SAE bolts that are holding some things together because I lost the actual bolt and SAE is usually easier to find at Home Depot... 

Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) > AestheticsInMotion 04/03/2019 at 16:57

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If my frame wasnt rusted to all hell, that would have been the direction I went it. Either that or an LFX V6 swap of some sort if I could choose. But spending any money on this car is a bad idea generally lol. 

ITA97, now with more Jag @ opposite-lock.com > Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) 04/03/2019 at 17:02

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If you’re potentially scrapping much of the car, the body disconnect is probably the easiest/quickest way of getting the car apart, as the roller skate will roll around nicely on its own as long as it is bolted together. You can then lower the body onto a trailer (when you can get one in the shop), or bolt a set of cheap casters from Harbor Freight to the floor and roll the body onto a trailer or wrecker that way.

The other easy way to scrap a miata (if you’ve got a trailer available) is to scrap the car on the trailer. Put the car up on a tall set of jackstands on the trailer (with some wood or plastic blocks between the jack stands and the body) and pull everything off the car on the trailer. Once you’re done you strap down whatever is left of the body and go to metal recycler of your choice. There they’ll use the big magnet to lift the body off the trailer (which is why the wood blocks are important) and pay you your couple of cents per pound for scrap steel.

Cash Rewards > AestheticsInMotion 04/03/2019 at 17:13

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Blah. Rotary.  Keep it in the family. It’s not like you wanted torque, and reliability is overrated

AestheticsInMotion > Cash Rewards 04/03/2019 at 17:20

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Let's meet in the middle with turbo rotary. Because I do want torque, but agree that reliability is unimportant 

Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) > ITA97, now with more Jag @ opposite-lock.com 04/03/2019 at 17:24

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I mean I certainly want to fix this miata and resurrect it from the grave. But its generally more cost effective to start with a cleaner car, even if it costs me $6k or $7k to get one if I found one with perfect paint. Keeping the motor and fixing it is more cost effective but everything else pretty much isnt. I can take my roll bar, seat, harness, wheels, diff, brakes, and exhaust and put it in any Miata. And then still make some money selling the 6spd and other odds/ends.

I will look and see if I can find any detailed guides on disconnecting the body from the PPF. That would be easiest way to go about fixing the thing if I really wanted to anyways. The body itself had the rust repaired when I was more ambitious about this. So its really just the front frame fork things that are bad. And there are guides to replace them but its generally just considered an effort in futility. 

Cash Rewards > Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) 04/03/2019 at 18:43

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That 03 could be like mine. LS, torsen, sport package (big brakes and bracing) , 5 speed, no ABS. Jackpot

Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) > Cash Rewards 04/03/2019 at 19:02

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It’s strange because I had thought LS package automatically indicated 6spd transmission, but its confusing to me. Have you noticed any downsides to the non-torsen LSD? That is one of the reasons I was trying primarily to find an ‘01-’02 to avoid the other diff. But if I really didnt like it, I have a perfectly functional torsen unit in the current car that can be swapped in. I also would need more time to really learn if I like the 5 speed. The one I test drove felt nice but the car feels much more lively with the way the 6spd is geared generally. Otherwise its the exact same car as mine then, which would probably be ideal. 

sony1492 > AestheticsInMotion 04/03/2019 at 20:26

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I think a f unner drift car can be built for less.

Cash Rewards > Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) 04/03/2019 at 20:46

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Ah, my mistake. Money is an 01 and has the torsen. I forgot the later nb2 do not. I’ve heard mixed things about that. I’ve also heard the 5 speed is more robust, for what that’s worth.

I chatted with Mazda online and gave them the VIN, and they were able to confirm specs and packages. Helps to make sure it actually does have a lsd (if you don't have a spare lying around!) But yeah, ls and sport package, but 5 speed and no abs. Gotta be a rare config, but I love it.

Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) > Cash Rewards 04/03/2019 at 20:52

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The robust factor is definitely the 6spd being stronger than the 5spd. That’s why people doing turbo builds seek out the 6spd and why its generally valuable to try and sell. And yeah running the VIN is definitely the best way to confirm its not some custom hodgepodge going on. Seeing the “HARD-S” written in the door jamb is generally the best way to confirm since that means sport brakes, suspension, and LSD. But there are other ways to see specifically for the diff.

Agreed that no abs and the other stuff is solid to have. I wouldn’t be picky about the transmission since im sure in the end it cant matter a whole lot. 

Cash Rewards > Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) 04/03/2019 at 20:54

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https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/d/warrenton-2002-miata-ls-green-tan/6851931015.html

Over priced, but depressingly not by as  much as I want it to be. Clean, well maintained, and nicely upgraded (though I would have up the shocks more). With hard top. But damn, $9500?

Cash Rewards > Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) 04/03/2019 at 21:00

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I really wanted a hard -s, but at this point in their life are the Bilstein shocks even worth anything? You get the brakes and chasis bracing with the sport-s anyway, and better off replacing the shocks on a near 20 year old car anyway. That’s next year’s project for me, unless it's budget  gets spent on a roll bar and race seat so I can run with NASA for track cross.

ateamfan42 > Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) 04/04/2019 at 08:32

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It’s strange because I had thought LS package automatically indicated 6spd transmission, but its confusing to me.

The 6 speed was an option on the LS model, standard on the SE, and not available on t he Shinsen or the Base.

Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) > Cash Rewards 04/04/2019 at 13:27

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Well yeah I suppose it doesnt matter, but the only reason to check for hard-s is that it guarantees that it came with an LSD. The actual shocks are irellevant since I’m going to install coilovers anyways. I can’t stand the body roll stock. Sway bar helps for sure and makes a good 75% of the difference, but its really nice having a proper suspension in a miata.

And I like having the roll bar, that was a good purchase for me. Even outside of track days, I think it makes the car look really good. Plus if padded properly and sized correctly, it can be used on the street without feeling like I am in danger without a helmet. I would still probably end up with a head injury but the dual padding should keep me alive in a bad wreck. Although the rest of the car is likely to injure me in something like that, sooo I try not to worry about that too much. Its while I like dailying the Subaru, I feel like I would fare much better in any altercation. But anyways, yeah I love my seat and roll bar for drives in the canyons. I’ve thought about having two miatas, one for the track and one for street. But honestly, I would set both up the same so it would unecessary. 

Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) > Cash Rewards 04/04/2019 at 13:30

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Absolute crack pipe! That is MSM money at that point. And while I also think the MSM pricing is crack pipe because they really arent that special, at least those have a collector vibe to them. Anything above $6k is crack pipe no matter how low the mileage or how good the condition. These are just old cars and there are so many of them that it’s silly. 

Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) > ateamfan42 04/04/2019 at 13:31

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That makes sense, I had confused it I guess. That makes sense the difference between LS and SE other than the aesthetic junk. 

Cash Rewards > AestheticsInMotion 04/14/2019 at 22:55

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Ask and you shall receive

https://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/d/linthicum-heights-turbo-rotary-miata/6866039824.html