"Darkbrador" (darkbrador)
02/25/2019 at 15:53 • Filed to: None
0
11|
"Darkbrador" (darkbrador)
02/25/2019 at 15:53 • Filed to: None | 0
| 11 |
I got my project car back to bare metal. Coughing some paint dust and pulling wire wheel bristles from my skin now. The question is : Filler (bondo) before epoxy primer or epoxy primer before filler ?
I asked the interweb, but as usual there is as many replies as there are people out there.
Two racing beetles for your time.
promoted by the color red
> Darkbrador
02/25/2019 at 16:13 |
|
Related: What grit wire wheel did you use?
|
Darkbrador
> promoted by the color red
02/25/2019 at 16:16 |
|
I’m actually not using the wire wheels anymore. I got a piece of it stuck in my eye (yes I was wearing safety glasses) but transitioned to roloc-type discs and pads, that are much more efficient job to remove the layers of paint. Grit from 60 to 130.
Spamfeller Loves Nazi Clicks
> Darkbrador
02/25/2019 at 16:24 |
|
Answer: ASK YOUR PAINT MAN.
I’m 100% serious. That is the only correct answer. It entirely depends on the preference, technique, and paint being used. Neither way is incorrect; neither way is correct.
|
Darkbrador
> Spamfeller Loves Nazi Clicks
02/25/2019 at 16:25 |
|
What if I told you I’m the paint man ?
davesaddiction @ opposite-lock.com
> Darkbrador
02/25/2019 at 16:27 |
|
Don’t beat a dead gift horse in the mouth.
|
Spamfeller Loves Nazi Clicks
> Darkbrador
02/25/2019 at 16:31 |
|
Okay. ASK YOUR PAINT MAN.
Which is to say: ask the guy selling you the paint to give you the long-winded spiel on the manufacturer’s recommended techniques and processes. Because it does vary. Some may adhere poorly to filler, while others may adhere better. Some may recommend filler over primer for rust prevention, others may recommend the opposite for the same reason.
That was unquestionably the most important lesson I learned from a 40+ year bodyman who tried to teach me how to not fuck up. (I can never be trusted to do more than chemical strip or sandblast. Do not give me a sanding block.) Don’t go by your gut or what feels good or what the Internet says. Sit down and read what the manufacturer says to do. If you aren’t sure? Call them and ask. They make the materials, so they know better than anyone else what the Right Way(TM) is.
|
Darkbrador
> Spamfeller Loves Nazi Clicks
02/25/2019 at 16:32 |
|
Drop this sanding block now !
|
Spamfeller Loves Nazi Clicks
> Darkbrador
02/25/2019 at 16:34 |
|
... I mean I know how to use the sanding block correctly.
I’m still gonna burn through the paint. And the primer. And the filler.
But I know the theory!
66P1800inpieces
> Darkbrador
02/25/2019 at 16:36 |
|
Super interested. Do you have a large compressor for paint or are you thinking of a 5 stage turbine. Samrac on Youtube seems to get okay results paining a Porsche with a middle level turbine sprayer from Eastwood, made by AccuSpray, that AccuSpray said is not good enough for full pain jobs. I have been looking at the Fuji models because the light commercial ones are only about $1400 including gun (special type for this type of method).
https://www.amazon.com/Fuji- 3005-T70-Platinum-Spray-System/dp/B00XQPN6CU
Edit - I just saw your earlier post, any update on the spray method?
|
Darkbrador
> 66P1800inpieces
02/25/2019 at 16:44 |
|
HVLP, still investigating and researching the best equipment, and the best bang for the buck too. Eastwood seem to have some decent equipment.
I’m planning on doing the e poxy primer, filler, high build primer myself and sanding myself. That is if Root drops the block and gives it back to me. I’ll leave the color/final coat(s) to a professional nearby.
I thought to be done with the welding and surgery, but of course removing the paint exposed other issues to take care of. Also a bit of lead work, but filler is coming soon.
|
66P1800inpieces
> Darkbrador
02/25/2019 at 21:14 |
|
Nice approach. Can’t wait to see your progress posts and tips on block sanding for future reference.