"hillrat" (hillrat)
11/15/2019 at 13:14 • Filed to: brake job, hyundai, DIY, rotors
0
34|
"hillrat" (hillrat)
11/15/2019 at 13:14 • Filed to: brake job, hyundai, DIY, rotors | 0
| 34 |
....I’m trying to lose mine this weekend.
I watched a couple of YouTube videos and it seems dead ass simple. I’ll have to borrow a floor jack, but I have jack stands, C clamps, and everything I’ll need to get the job done.
There’s nothing that indicates the rotors are wiped out, what should I look for on the visual inspection or will it be really obvious if the rotors are cooked?
Also, is it really possible that brake pads are only $20? I saw !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! earlier this week and the value proposition seems to be the middle tier. Anyone care to make a specific recommendation for a Hyundai Sonata Hybrid?
Thanks!!!
dogisbadob
> hillrat
11/15/2019 at 13:38 |
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Yes, brake pads can be that cheap, but they’re not the greatest. Akebono makes excellent pads. Many pads come with a packet of grease, but Akebono is stingy with their grease packet; they don’t give you enough to do all 4 pads. Get a tube of Sil-Glyde if you don’t already have one.
Rotors aren’t that expensive. You might as well replace them, since they just slide off once you do the pads anyway. I recommend coated rotors since they will delay the rust. Rusted rotors are hard to get off. Powerstop Geomet coated
rotors are good. There are also some good C-
coated rotors out there such as Centric Premium and Wagner E-coated.
MasterMario - Keeper of the V8s
> hillrat
11/15/2019 at 13:40 |
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The rear brake pads probably need to pressed down and screwed in. You can borrow a tool like this one from pretty much any autoparts store.
ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability
> MasterMario - Keeper of the V8s
11/15/2019 at 13:52 |
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Not always, this is needed for cars with integrated handbrakes afaik . My C5 does not need that tool, i dont think so.
OPPOsaurus WRX
> hillrat
11/15/2019 at 13:52 |
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as MasterMario said, check on the way the caliper retracts. some screw as they go in and out and that requires special tools. soak everything in PBblaster to loosen up stuck bolts. wear gloves, it helps from turning your knuckles into hamburger.
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ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability
> dogisbadob
11/15/2019 at 13:52 |
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May need to remove the brake caliper bracket to remove the rotors.
adamftw
> hillrat
11/15/2019 at 13:53 |
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Don’t buy the cheapest pads, the 2nd one up at the parts store is usually fine. Something semi-metallic. Take your time, do one side at a time so you can reference the other side if you get stuck on the reinstall.
I would do both the pads and rotors, because if the rotors are no good you’ll wipe the pads out faster. Remember to bed the pads in either way... do a couple almost-panic stops increasing in distance but DON’T come to a full stop. 20 -5, 40-5, 60-5. The brake pedal will get all spongy but it’s ok.
Ash78, voting early and often
> hillrat
11/15/2019 at 13:54 |
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Replacing pads is simple. But all brake jobs are 3 jobs in one.
1. Replace pads (including coating of brake quiet anti-vibration grease)
2. Bleed lines. Compressing the rotors always involves either opening the bleed valve or the master cylinder. Both can introduce air into the system. Save the labor later and just change all the fluid if you can.
3. Replace or resurface rotors. Depending on the brand and the wear & tear. Most people just replace the rotors since they’re usually as cheap as paying for a resurfacing.
Some people get by without step 3, but it’s never a good idea to cut corners on brakes. Pads are rotors fit together in a specific pattern of grooves and a new pad against an old rotor can really increase stopping distance. Eventually they should match up, but then Murphy’s Law says it’ll be time to replace the rotors...
The good news is most brake systems are very similar from car to car, so generic instructions can be ok. But model-specific is ALWAYS better if you can find it.
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hillrat
> MasterMario - Keeper of the V8s
11/15/2019 at 13:55 |
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Thanks for the tip, I think I’m going to do the fronts this weekend. See how it feels and then do the rears the following weekend. I gotta plan for something to go horribly wrong.
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ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability
> hillrat
11/15/2019 at 13:55 |
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Stoptech and Powerstop also make good rotors in addiction to what dog mentioned. Also, if you have retaining bolts for the disks, they may have rusted and may shear off; in which case you can just drill the head out and leave the shank in the wheel bearing/hub.
Wacko
> hillrat
11/15/2019 at 13:56 |
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6 inch C clamp is your friend to push in the piston
use on old pads.
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MasterMario - Keeper of the V8s
> ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability
11/15/2019 at 13:56 |
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True, aren’t a majority of rears made with the integrated hand brake though?
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Wacko
> Wacko
11/15/2019 at 13:58 |
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and clean grease the slider pins
gmporschenut also a fan of hondas
> hillrat
11/15/2019 at 13:58 |
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One thing to check is if the kit includes the hardware, stamped steel guides.
Also when swapping out the guides plates, you’ll want to clean off the rust/brake dust/grim that collects behind. If too much builds up, your brake pads won’t slide as freely and may wear out quicker.
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hillrat
> gmporschenut also a fan of hondas
11/15/2019 at 13:59 |
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All the pad kits I looked at came with the hardware. Thanks for the tip!!
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Ash78, voting early and often
> ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability
11/15/2019 at 14:01 |
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Yup. I always do that because it’s normally just 2 bolts and it makes the rest of the work easier to have the caliper out of the way. Just don’t let it dangle by the brake line if you can avoid it.
Thisismydisplayname
> hillrat
11/15/2019 at 14:22 |
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Get yourself a small triangular file to clean out the slide slots in the pad holders. You want to get those channels clean clean clean. If you install the new hardware and the pads don’t move in the channels, they aren’t clean enough. But if they are a bit stiff to move, that’s okay. Use a little bit of grease on the parts that contact the slides.
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gmporschenut also a fan of hondas
> hillrat
11/15/2019 at 14:22 |
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Anyway to get a photo of the rotors?
facw
> hillrat
11/15/2019 at 14:32 |
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Yep, find out what you need before you do the rears. Don’t want to c-clamp something that needs to be turned back in.
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hillrat
> Wacko
11/15/2019 at 14:38 |
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I’ve got that tool!!!
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hillrat
> gmporschenut also a fan of hondas
11/15/2019 at 14:40 |
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I’m sitting at my desk now, but I’ll definitely take a picture when I pull the wheel off. Based on what other commenters are saying and the relative ease of changing them, I think I’m going to do the rotors too.
The Ghost of Oppo
> hillrat
11/15/2019 at 14:55 |
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Make sure you remove the cap to the reservoir before you press in the piston.
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ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability
> MasterMario - Keeper of the V8s
11/15/2019 at 15:24 |
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I think some of the older cars so have separate pads housed in the wheel hub.
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ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability
> Ash78, voting early and often
11/15/2019 at 15:25 |
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Interesting, I never remove em unless I have to. Don’t like torquing then to unholy specs everytime
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MasterMario - Keeper of the V8s
> ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability
11/15/2019 at 15:35 |
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Yea, he said Sonata Hybrid though and those have only been around since 2011 so I assume it’s probably integrated.
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ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability
> MasterMario - Keeper of the V8s
11/15/2019 at 15:39 |
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Did not know that they were around since only 2011
Captain of the Enterprise
> hillrat
11/15/2019 at 16:10 |
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I usually go with centric pads and rotors that I get off rock auto. I’d use the type that came stock. For example if it came with ceramic pads I put ceramic ones on, if it came with semi metallic I put semi metallic ones on.
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Ash78, voting early and often
> ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability
11/15/2019 at 16:16 |
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I just put the torque wrench down and consider it my workout for the day :)
But yeah, there aren't many bolts on the car you need to be SURE are tight.
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ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability
> Ash78, voting early and often
11/15/2019 at 16:31 |
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Uum I never have had to do step 2. I just open up the fluid reservoir cap and push thr piston in
nermal
> hillrat
11/15/2019 at 16:41 |
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I had to do calipers & pads recently for my truck. Got ‘em from RockAuto, much cheaper than buying locally.
You’ll want an impact wrench for removing lug nuts, and a torque wrench for putting them back on. Harbor Freight is your friend here, they have cheap ones of both that work great.
Your rotors are probably fine, although they are relatively cheap & easy to do while you’re in there. If you’ve got rear discs, make sure the parking brake is off if you remove the rotor.
RacinBob
> hillrat
11/15/2019 at 19:48 |
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1 Some calipers will pivot up to change the pads.
2. A big screwdriver
through the window in the caliper
can push the pad back.. Once you have some space to work, it’s pretty
easy to push the piston back.
3. You can check out the rear tool and probably front too
from autozone
4. before you get too deep, make sure you can get all the bolts off.
5. An impact makes things easier.
6. If you are changing the rotors, if the phillips head screw holding the rotor won’t
budge, drill it out. This is for assembly, not functioning for actual breaking.
Urambo Tauro
> The Ghost of Oppo
11/15/2019 at 20:31 |
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Or open the bleeders to let the fluid out . It’s probably due for a brake fluid change anyway.
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Urambo Tauro
> ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability
11/15/2019 at 20:39 |
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Ch anging the brake fluid is an excellent idea. It’s one of the most neglected fluids on a car, and doing it during a regular brake job p rovides a great excuse to crack open the bleeder screw s every few years. Sure beats snapping off bleeders that are seized from 20+ years of rust, and having to replace an entire caliper...
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ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability
> Urambo Tauro
11/15/2019 at 20:41 |
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That’s true. I don’t do it all the time coz I know when its been changed...
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gmporschenut also a fan of hondas
> hillrat
11/15/2019 at 20:44 |
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The most telltale sign that a rotor needs to be replaced is if a lip is formed on the edge of the rotor. In the past it was common to lathe down the surface, but that is rare now a days.