"gmctavish needs more space" (gmctavish)
09/29/2018 at 22:40 • Filed to: Raider
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"gmctavish needs more space" (gmctavish)
09/29/2018 at 22:40 • Filed to: Raider | 14
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The Raider went on it’s maiden voyage today with the Weber. I think it’s still too rich, or maybe the fuel pressure needs backed off a little, but all things considered it’s running pretty damn well.
Noticeably more power and torque, no trouble getting up hills at speed, and only has to turn over once to start from cold. Hot, it has to crank a bit, and is dieseling when shut off.
I also have a bit of slack in my throttle cable to allow for WOT, but it’s making small changes at the beginning of the throttle travel difficult. Hopefully a stronger throttle return spring will remedy some of that...
It’s pretty surreal to for this thing to have so much power. As long as I’ve known it, it’s been anemic and rough, but now it has plenty of power to keep up with traffic, and actually feels fast once you really dig into it. It’s cool, I’m tentatively very happy.
Have some more photos.
Now it’s time to put the cover on for winter.
HammerheadFistpunch
> gmctavish needs more space
09/29/2018 at 22:57 |
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reminds me, I found this the other day, thought you would like it but forgot I took it.
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gmctavish needs more space
> HammerheadFistpunch
09/29/2018 at 23:07 |
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Nice, looks like it’s being used as it should. I need bigger tires on mine.
Future Heap Owner
> gmctavish needs more space
09/29/2018 at 23:22 |
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Man I love looking at this little thing. Great work with the carb; gotta feel good to have it running strong now.
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gmctavish needs more space
> Future Heap Owner
09/29/2018 at 23:33 |
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It’s very satisfying. I’ve had so many issues getting things buttoned up that I’m not letting myself feel totally satisfied, but being able to drive it finally after pulling the old carb off is definitely a relief.
Spamfeller Loves Nazi Clicks
> gmctavish needs more space
09/30/2018 at 11:06 |
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This one has the Astron engine. Those tend to prefer the rich side. Also note that you almost definitely fed it the wrong gas.
Astrons require 91 RON, but US/CDN pumps are AKI (R+M)/2 rated. So you want to feed it mid-grade 89 AKI - not 87, but also not 91+. Most of the Astron equipped cars didn’t really mention this, likely for fear that it would negatively impact sales.
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gmctavish needs more space
> Spamfeller Loves Nazi Clicks
09/30/2018 at 12:45 |
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Wow really, 89? Bizarre, especially for how low the compression is.
I could’ve sworn I found something that made me sure I was fine with 87, but maybe it’s just how low the compression is that made me think 87 was good.
Once I’ve burned through this gas I’ll have to fill it with 89 and see how much of a difference I notice
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Spamfeller Loves Nazi Clicks
> gmctavish needs more space
09/30/2018 at 14:37 |
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CR alone is misleading. The Astron’s a true hemispherical chamber, coupled to an 8.8:1 base CR. But it’s an extremely low CFM Mikuni. So you get bad fueling leading to running rich, and because of a lack of adequa te knock control on the later Astrons , you need a larger buffer. Hence, 89 octane over 87 octane. (Which because of the hemispherical, will actually produce slightly more power due to good in-engine combustion.)
My recommendation in honesty though, would be to dump the Mikuni for something better (forums seem to like the Carter or Weber.) That is presuming you don’t want to do a full factory MPFI conversion. (Your source for those parts would be the 4G54 or 4G55 with injector swap.) Or say “fuck this shit” and fit it with the double carb setup off the Galant GTO GSR or Galant GS-II.
Or, you know, go for broke with a Starion driveline. You know you want to.
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gmctavish needs more space
> Spamfeller Loves Nazi Clicks
09/30/2018 at 14:53 |
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Oh, I have gone with a Weber, a 38. Yesterday was my first time driving it since I did the swap. Do you think I should still be running 89, or does the Weber make that unnecessary ?
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Spamfeller Loves Nazi Clicks
> gmctavish needs more space
09/30/2018 at 16:10 |
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I’d still probably recommend 89 AKI . As I said; the true hemispherical setup on these allows them to burn very well, and the engine was designed for 91 RON regardless of carburetor setup . So you should slightly better fuel economy and a tiny bump in power on 89 AKI. These tend to not pass smog on 87 as well.
The ‘89 also has a VERY BASIC computer in it. How basic? It has 13 + 9 pins total , and that covers the power AND DLC hookup. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO RESET IT. This is a 7598 unit and it is absolutely critical that you do not EVER try to put it into relearn mode without a DRB-II or DRB-III on hand. And it does NOT work with the CH8361 or wiTech. You specifically need the OTC CH8000 and Mitsubishi adapter cable for the DRB3 or a DRB2 with the MMC translator (NOT the DSM cable) and the 1989-90 MMC/DSM “Red Label” combo card or V7.0+ SuperCart.
If you can get your hands on these tools (seriously, NOTHING modern will work here, no matter how ‘professional grade’ it is) then you can do the relearn procedure. The ground cheater method is ONLY for the 3.0 . There’s a whole fucking thing about doing the relearn on the 2.6 and the Chrysler FSM is actually WRONG (I suspect mistranslation.)
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gmctavish needs more space
> Spamfeller Loves Nazi Clicks
09/30/2018 at 18:08 |
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Sweet, I shall still try 89 and see how I like it.
I don’t know what any of those things are, but I won’t be using it’s computer ever again so that’s okay. I unplugged anything to do with the old Mikuni, including the computer
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Spamfeller Loves Nazi Clicks
> gmctavish needs more space
09/30/2018 at 20:20 |
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Um, I don’t recommend that either . Seriously. The computer is very very basic but it is pretty necessary.
Yes, it only has 22 pins. But the electric auto-choke should be retained while deleting the throttle opener solenoid. The PCM in these is connected to the vacuum sensor, O2 sensor, throttle position sensor, engine speed sensor (tach supply,) transmission temperature sensor, oil temperature sensor, and coolant temperature sensor among others.
What you need to kill off is the feedback solenoid and slow-cut solenoid, but NOT the secondary air control or throttle opener solenoid. Both the FBSV and SCSV can be faked out. Top left on this diagram describes the inputs and outputs.
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gmctavish needs more space
> Spamfeller Loves Nazi Clicks
09/30/2018 at 20:28 |
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The Weber has an electric choke, and there’s nothing for the computer to do anymore with the Mikuni gone. All my vacuum lines are capped off or removed except for the brake booster, PCV, and distributor advance. There’s nothing it can do anymore with whatever information can still get to it
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Spamfeller Loves Nazi Clicks
> gmctavish needs more space
09/30/2018 at 22:10 |
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Look.
I wrenched on these engines. With the right tools. I researched them in depth because I will, at some point, build up a Starion. I can put the PCM into relearn from memory. I knew how to get them to pass smog legally.
Try this same technique when the doctor tells you your appendix needs to come out or your broken bone needs set.
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gmctavish needs more space
> Spamfeller Loves Nazi Clicks
09/30/2018 at 23:53 |
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Okay I want to make sure I’m getting this straight.
I have a Weber on it, which only has fuel in, vacuum to the distributor, and a single wire to power the electric choke. Everything is working fine, my gauges on the dash read fine. But you’re saving despite having a Weber, I need the computer hooked up. A re we talking about different computers? Because the one I disconnected is the one right above the passenger footwell, for controlling the Mikuni carb, which my truck no longer has.