Not Car Related

"Tripper" (tripe46) 08/14/2018 at 15:32 • Filed to: None

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I’m a big fan of big wave surfing even though I personally only ride little waves. It’s one of those things that has memorized me since the first time I saw someone ride a wave that was twice as tall as he. I don’t think there is anything more rad that a human being can do on this earth than riding  down a gigantic water mountain on a tiny surfboard. A few days ago Rodrigo Koxa and his gigantic nutsack did the following.

thejustache > Tripper 08/14/2018 at 15:54

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Every time I see video of someone riding big swell at Nazare my brain doesn’t really compute it. It’s the closest approximation to what I thought a tsunami looked like as a kid (even though a real tsunami of course looks nothing like that)

His Stigness > Tripper 08/14/2018 at 15:55

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acarr260 > Tripper 08/14/2018 at 15:56

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Have you watched Thicker than Water? It’s a great movie discussing a lot of aspects of surfing.

Tripper > acarr260 08/14/2018 at 15:58

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No, I’ll have to check it out.

PartyPooper2012 > Tripper 08/14/2018 at 15:58

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what really grinds my gears is the zoom on cameras that shoot these things. I cannot tell how big the wave is. I also cannot tell who is on the board. Either zoom in or zoom out. 

Ash78, voting early and often > Tripper 08/14/2018 at 15:59

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Basically how I feel about watching a Warren Miller extreme snowskiing vid, or seeing the Huber Brothers climb in Yosemite (or anywhere for that matter).

I like that I can relate, but I’m like HELL NO.

The thing about surfing, skiing, climbing, etc among sports is that, in traditional sports you have to spend years or decades to achieve the CHANCE to play in the top ranks. With these sports, you can go out there and attempt the same thing Rodrigo did, even if you’re a noob. I mean, yeah, you’ll end up dead, but at least you have the chance.

Tripper > thejustache 08/14/2018 at 16:00

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Yea! Every time I watch one in my brain I just repeat things like “that is so big, like so fucking big, huge, just gigantic”

Tripper > Ash78, voting early and often 08/14/2018 at 16:03

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That is what I love most about alternative sports. Anyone with the ability and the guts can go out and do it at least at some level.

Tripper > PartyPooper2012 08/14/2018 at 16:07

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I’m sure there are better shots, but maybe not. I’d guess that i t’s not often that once in a lifetime waves show up at the same time a heli is in the air with a real camera, and a surfer in the water that catches and makes the wave.

For me, I don’t care who it is or how big the wave is. I’m just excited to see someone make it. The scale of the person compared to the wave is all I need.

thejustache > Tripper 08/14/2018 at 16:08

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I still think Teahupoo is my favorite spot when it gets heavy because it looks like the sea is folding in on itself. And by that I mean favorite spot I mean to watch on youtube, because big for me on the east coast is shoulder high hahaha

Chuckles > Tripper 08/14/2018 at 16:12

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Big wave surfing is incredible, but it's definitely the most terrifying activity that I can imagine. I've willingly jumped out of an airplane twice in my life, but you couldn't pay me enough money to ever go big wave surfing.

Tripper > thejustache 08/14/2018 at 16:13

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Also on the east coast, and Yeap Teahupoo is my fav too. Amazingly thick, ferocious, glassy smooth waves. They pop up soooo quick watching the water move underneath the board is just unreal. They capture it perfectly in “Riding Giants”.

The biggest surf I have ever been in is the NJ shore during a hurricane swell maybe 6ft... I was only up on my feet a few times and was so tired on the drive home that I was nearly falling asleep at the wheel. I cannot imagine even being in a boat near big surf let alone in the water.

Tripper > Chuckles 08/14/2018 at 16:16

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Totally agree. I don’t think I could even handle riding shotgun on one of the wave runners out there, even with the most experienced rider.

thejustache > Tripper 08/14/2018 at 16:30

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Where in NJ do you surf? I’m landlocked in upstate NY but when I go it’s usually down there. That said I’m a mediocre surfer at best, and in the last couple years since getting married I haven’t been able to get down there as much as I’d like.

I haven’t surfed hurricane swell, but I did surf a 5ft day once and can totally identify with spending more time paddling than standing and nearly falling asleep on the ride home

AestheticsInMotion > Tripper 08/14/2018 at 17:07

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Did not realize this was a thing. When someone says “surfing” I think 12ish foot waves.

That video above is absolutely jaw dropping 

Tripper > thejustache 08/14/2018 at 17:48

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My “season” starts soon. While the water is warm and the lifeguards are gone. I usually go to Ocean City (I’m in Southeastern PA). I’ve got an 8 week old baby, but my wife loves the beach so I’m sure we’ll get down for the day a few times.

That’s the trouble with a lot of the east coast, you spend so much energy paddling out that by the time your wave comes you might  have enough juice to catch it. A good friend lives near Wrightsville beach in NC. I’ve been spoiled by a few perfect days there.

PartyPooper2012 > Tripper 08/15/2018 at 06:18

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I suppose... but usually the wave doesn’t look like a wave. It looks like a damn wall of water and there is something falling off it diagonally.

Ever see Blue Crush movie? All about those shots where you cannot tell what you are looking at. Thankfully pretty girls in the movie :)

functionoverfashion > Tripper 08/21/2018 at 10:46

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I lived on Maui for a brief time (it seemed long at the time, but was only 4 months, in hindsight) and we’d go down to see Peahi / Jaws when it was breaking. The thing there was, we’d watch some dudes tow-in surf it, then we’d see them at the bar later.

Our first day there we actually watched a windsurfer get thrased by a 10-15' set, and as we were telling our landlord later, “Hey we already saw someone getting wrecked,” etc he was like, “oh that was me. I’m ok but my gear is toast. It’s OK I’ve got like 20 more.”

I could watch big wave surfing all day. I’ve never surfed something bigger than my head height, and that was probably the most exciting thing I’ve ever done - like the sensation of jumping a 20' cliff on skis (which I’ve done) but continuous, for as long as you can stay on the wave.

Tripper > functionoverfashion 08/21/2018 at 11:05

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How’d you like the island life? We’ve been considering it since visiting Kauai.

It’s definitely on the bucket list to see some big wave riding in person. Honestly, even just some big waves in person.

I’m a novice surfer and also have only stood up on a wave about head height for maybe 10 seconds but I’ll never forget it and am always looking forward to the next one. I’ve been snowboarding since I was 13 or 14. I like big cliffs, but I like big jumps more. Still, I get more out of a few seconds on a small wave than I do on the biggest snow jump. Surfing brings out that little kid feeling of “look what I can do!!!”.

Snowboarding is nearly as fun and maybe it’s because I’ve been doing it for so long but there are more nerves for me. Like “Ok, Tripper you’ve done this 1000 times...no speed checks, and no thinking after you start down, do not fall because it will hurt” after a smooth landing it’s all worth it. Feeling proud, getting/giving the high fives from/to each of my buddies as each one of us sails over and does a neat trick or at the very least doesn’t fall.

With surfing it’s all fun, and even when I’m out with friends it’s really just me going after a wave and if I make it’s the best and if I don’t I just wait for another. The only time I’ve been nervous surfing is being held under for longer than I’m comfortable. Which in all reality is probably 15-20 seconds but just feels like an eternity.

functionoverfashion > Tripper 08/21/2018 at 13:37

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Maui was amazing, we lived in Paia which is a small town not far from the main town of Kahului, but without any chain stores or anything. Lots of pro surfers and windsurfers hung out there. Walkable to Ho’okipa which is probably Maui’s closest thing to Oahu’s North Shore (it’s on Maui’s North Shore). A short drive to Kanaha where the windsurfers and kiteboarders go. Paia Bay was an amazing beach with smaller but very challenging waves.

Food there was amazing. Everything was expensive. People were transient (us included) so you would make a friend, they he or she would leave. There was also a lot of anti-tourist / anti-white sentiment from the locals. Many of them were cool, very nice, and we made friends. But there were times when I truly felt what it’s like to be a hated minority. Friends of ours were attacked one night in a random act of violence. I didn’t see it, but I had to believe it wasn’t that simple. I kept to myself and was very kind and respectful; never had a problem.

(quick side story - one night two of us went to a bar we frequented, in a small town called Haiku. We sat at the bar and ordered drinks, then started looking around - it turns out it was a Locals Night and we were probably not welcome - not a single non-Hawaiian face in the place. I’m a damn ginger . We finished our drinks and left, but happened to have parked directly outside the door. I had a beat-up cherokee that fit in nicely, and some very large local dudes were leaning on it, smoking cigarettes, just hanging out. I had to ask very, very nicely, ‘excuse me, can I get into my jeep right there please?’ It was all good, but made me nervous all the same)

It’s absolutely paradise, though. I could spend years exploring just Maui. The towns up the hill (“mauka”) a bit were such a perfect cool climate and quieter than any place I’ve ever been; so peaceful and spectacular at the same time. Incredibly varied terrain and climate. Beaches (obviously) and great waves, great winds. Calm on the lee side of the island. No heat or A/C needed. Just paradise.

Tripper > functionoverfashion 08/23/2018 at 09:24

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Yea we got a little of the anti-white/american sentiment after dark in Hanapepe on Kauai. We were warned about it by some people that we met. Nothing serious, just some kids cursing/throwing stuff at us.

We’re going back next year and hopefully doing a little island hopping.

I’m really looking for an opportunity to live there for a few months/years.

functionoverfashion > Tripper 08/23/2018 at 11:33

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Cool. I f you go to Maui I’d have a few recommendations, beyond the obvious ones. I’m sure some things have changed, but I’m also sure that much is the same. I’d go back in a second, but it’s not a destination we’re looking at with kids @ 4 and 6; maybe when they’re old enough to surf!