"marshknute" (marshknute)
06/14/2018 at 13:10 • Filed to: None | 2 | 37 |
I want to get into motorcycles, but fear it’ll be absurdly expensive, especially for the first year. So I’m trying to estimate a ballpark figure for one year of ownership.
But first, some quick Info on my hypothetical first bike:
Budget : $4K
Bike Experience : Literally none. I sat on a Ducati once.
Daily Driver : No, I walk to work. Weekend rides only.
Location : Live in NYC, but will probably get a storage locker in CT so it’s cheaper and closer to fun backroads.
Want : Something reliable, and cheap to run
Don’t Want : Something too slow for highway cruising (Grom)
So now the price of admission. Keep in mind, I’m starting with nothing, so the price of entry will also need to include the cost of training, registration and gear. As far as I can tell, I’d have to buy all of the following:
Bike : $4000
MSF Course : $250
DMV Registration Fees
: $30
Insurance : $250/yr
Parking : $150/mo
Riding Gear : $1000 for a helmet, gloves, jacket, pants, boots, etc
Maintenance : $500/yr???
TOTAL: $7830+
Let’s call it $8000, and an additional $3000 for every subsequent year assuming I keep the same bike, but buy more gear/accessories
Does that seem like a reasonable ballpark figure?
My deal-breaker is reliability. I won’t enjoy biking if I have to spend all my time doing maintenance. I completely realize that I don’t know what I’m talking about, but I’m always hearing about how bikes require weekly/monthly maintenance. For that reason, I’m afraid to get a used bike. But the factory warranty on a brand new bike only lasts 12 months, even from legendarily reliable brands like Honda. How can I trust a cheap used bike if Honda doesn’t even have faith in their own product after the first year? I’m used to cars that require zero maintenance (just gas n’ go).
Do me an educate, Oppo.
KingT- 60% of the time, it works every time
> marshknute
06/14/2018 at 13:18 | 1 |
Sounds reasonable and it’s better to overestimate IMO, I cannot speak to insurance and parking especially in NY. Good gear is on discount most of the time online. But remember you would need some seasonal gear of some sort. I had summer and winter sets.
Want : Something reliable, and cheap to run
Don’t Want : Something too slow for highway cruising (Grom)
If you don’t go for the Ninja 250 and it’s equivalents <400CC, Get a used Honda standard like a Hornet, Yamaha Fz series or the “you can never go wrong with this”-Suzuki SV650. Get a fuel injected one if you don’t want to tune and maintain carburetors. Most maintenance can be done easily yourself .Parts are cheaper than European alternatives.
themanwithsauce - has as many vehicles as job titles
> marshknute
06/14/2018 at 13:18 | 0 |
Your year over year costs are actually low. I only buy ~100-200$ in gear since starting to ride. I am on my second helmet and pair of pants and I’m getting new riding boots this weekend but I’m on my original jacket. My gloves tend to be lighter duty ones so they wear out after just a season or so but they’re cheap.
Oil changes are dirt cheap too, especially if you buy oil in bulk. I would only budget ~100-150$ for maintenance. But put aside some cash for tires and chain every few years. Or more if you ride a LOT. Like 10k miles a year or more. Tires last between 5 and 10k depending on bike and whatnot. Chains last for a while so long as you adjust them. Accessories can get expensive, depending on your bike.
As for the bike itself, your starter bike can be a 10 year old rebel 250/ninja 250 or 300/CBR 250 or 300/or something like a 250cc dirt bike and those will keep everything cheap. I bought my KLR used and I got a 2 year warranty from them.....and I didn’t need it. Dual sports are the most rough and tumble bikes out there and require (usually) the least amount of maintenance and the fewest repairs if you have a slide or take a spill off road.
So overall I’d say cut your budget in half and you’ll be fine.
Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
> marshknute
06/14/2018 at 13:23 | 3 |
“ Bike : $4000"
“Maintenence: $500"
hahaha what? Buy an early 2000s Kawasaki Ninja 250 for $800-$1500, throw $500 at new tires, a valve adjustment, and having the carbs gone through professionally to ensure you don’t have any future issues with them. Continue to ride it for five years without any issues and enjoy having the bike equivalent of a Miata. 15 second quarter mile is respectable and they’re tossable as hell weighing in at 340-ish pounds wet. Get yourself a modular jacket that is summer/winter, some good gloves and pants, and buy a SNELL rated helmet (not just DOT) for about $200. $1000 for gear is about right, but if you play your cards right that’s a one-time purchase.
Reasons I suggest an older Ninja:
Parts are literally everywhere.
Comfortable as hell. Looks like a sportbike but is really more of a “standard” riding position with far more padding in the seat than the modern equivalents.
reliable reliable reliable reliable
Barely slower than a modern Ninja 300 but WAY cheaper
Super easy to ride, easily cruises on the highway
Loads of fun on twisties
Disc brakes front and rear
Buddy has happily owned one he bought for $600 that is in flawless condition for two years now and while he does want to buy a Vmax he has absolutely no desire to ever let go of his Ninja. Out of his 8-car-and-bike fleet it has been the single most reliable vehicle he’s ever owned other than a 1997 Honda Accord 5sp coupe which was equally reliable but more practical.
EDIT: inb4 Peter and his hatred of carbs comes in to tell me how horribly wrong I am.
Carbs aren’t bad. I’ve had two carb bikes now, one which required absolutely no coddling and would happily start up in 20 degree Fahrenheit weather, and another one that required a TON of cleaning due to the previous owner clogging it up with RTV silicone (BAD news, took an eternity to get out) but once I finally got it clean it’s been trouble-free. Previous ownership is a big deal. The first bike was a 1980 Honda CX500 bought from a well-to-do family that just didn’t want it anymore. The second was a 1996 Kawasaki Vulcan 500 that was drug covered in dust and dents out of a barn in trade for a non-running car. So, y’know, I kind of expected it to be a basketcase.
Gerry197
> marshknute
06/14/2018 at 13:24 | 1 |
Depends on how much you ride. Most people don’t ride a bike like they drive a car. If so, then you need to add deprecation based on mileage, which is a lot higher on motorcycles then a car. 30,000 miles on a car is practically new in most people’s minds, but 30,000 miles on a bike is huge and hurts the value.
Highest costs (besides depreciation on new bikes) is tires, especially for standard/sporty or sport bikes. Say $400 for tires + labor every 3,000 to 6,000 miles. Chain and sprockets on 120 sized sets could last you maybe 12,000 miles, about $300 a set plus labor. Insurance is cheap for older riders, super costly on young riders with sport bikes.
I’m 43 years old, have 3 motorcycles currently, a SV650, Buell 1125R and Harley 1200 Iron. Insurance full coverage with $250 deduct on each, I pay $75 a month for all 3 bikes combined. However, my overall running costs are even cheaper since I don’t have time to ride a lot, maybe 2,000 miles a year on all 3 bikes combined.
My first 5 years of riding, I bought a SV650S for $3000. I bought a set of times, sprockets, and did a major service and gear. I sold that SV650 for $3000 5 years later, zero deprecation in 5 years of ownership!
5 Years of Ownership Costs:
2003 Suzuki SV650S $0 ($3000 purchase, $3,000 sold)
Tires $800 (2 sets at $400)
Sprockets/Chain $300
15K service $400 (valve check and adjustment, other tune items)
Oil Changes $125 ($25 for oil & filter, X5)
Insurance $1,500 ($300 year full coverage)
Registration $375 ($75 a year)
Helmet $50
Jacket $45
Gloves $40
Boots $30
Exhaust Pipe $300 (not needed, but sounded good)
Frame Sliders $65
Tinted Windscreen $65 (not needed, but looked good)
Rear Stand $70 (Used Pitbull stand off Craigslist)
Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
> Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
06/14/2018 at 13:27 | 0 |
EDIT: inb4 Peter and his hatred of carbs comes in to tell me how horribly wrong I am.
Carbs aren’t bad. I’ve had two carb bikes now, one which required absolutely no coddling and would happily start up in 20 degree Fahrenheit weather, and another one that required a TON of cleaning due to the previous owner clogging it up with RTV silicone (BAD news, took an eternity to get out) but once I finally got it clean it’s been trouble-free. Previous ownership is a big deal. The first bike was a 1980 Honda CX500 bought from a well-to-do family that just didn’t want it anymore. The second was a 1996 Kawasaki Vulcan 500 that was drug covered in dust and dents out of a barn in trade for a non-running car. So, y’know, I kind of expected it to be a basketcase.
Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
> KingT- 60% of the time, it works every time
06/14/2018 at 13:28 | 1 |
SV650 is excellent. Hornet is also excellent. +1 to these suggestions.
Decay buys too many beaters
> marshknute
06/14/2018 at 13:30 | 0 |
That’s the extreme high end.
You could do a decent SV650 for half that and half the recurring costs.
KingT- 60% of the time, it works every time
> Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
06/14/2018 at 13:32 | 1 |
I wouldn’t recommend them as the very very first bike if you’ve never even driven mopeds/scooters/dirtbikes. Ninja 250 for at least first 1 year but some people can handle the Sv650s right off the bat. Absolutely no Supersports though. CBRs/R6s/Zx-6Rs are out.
Future next gen S2000 owner
> marshknute
06/14/2018 at 13:36 | 1 |
If you are spending 4K on a bike you shouldn’t have 500 in maintenance. Oil changes should be the limit.
Future next gen S2000 owner
> Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
06/14/2018 at 13:37 | 1 |
Carbs suck.
Future next gen S2000 owner
> Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
06/14/2018 at 13:39 | 0 |
I don’t know any shop that is going through the carbs and adjusting the valves for less than 1000.
I’m not disagreeing with your bike recommendation just that you can’t do that work for that price, especially in NYC.
marshknute
> Future next gen S2000 owner
06/14/2018 at 13:43 | 0 |
Hmm. That’s actually really good to know. I’d rather spend more upfront to mitigate/eliminate maintenance down the line.
KingT- 60% of the time, it works every time
> Gerry197
06/14/2018 at 13:44 | 1 |
2003 Suzuki SV650S $0 ($3000 purchase, $3,000 sold)
It really is the do-it-all WRX of motorcycles.
Decay buys too many beaters
> Future next gen S2000 owner
06/14/2018 at 13:46 | 1 |
A carb is great...
Multi carbs can fuck right off.
Future next gen S2000 owner
> marshknute
06/14/2018 at 13:47 | 2 |
Get the bike you want but bikes are pretty cheap relatively speaking. Just be a responsible adult and don’t do dumb shit on them. Always and I mean fucking always have two or three outs at all times. People will cut you off, a lot, and you will use them. Stay on top of your situation at all times. It is much more mentally intense riding vs driving.
That said. It’s awesome.
bob and john
> marshknute
06/14/2018 at 13:48 | 1 |
your gear cost is pretty on par.
bike: not sure what an R3 is worth, but thats usually a pretty solid option.
as far as warrenty is concerned: its more to sell you extra warrenty. I put 260K km on an sv650. do your maintence and you will be fine. dont freak out about that.
now, MSF, parking, insurance...thats all on you. the insurance cost here in toronto is more like 250 a MONTH, not year, so heads up.
maintenance...stand, chain lube, a brush, some cleaner that adds up to 200? and just consumables after that.
3K a year after that? jesus dude thats WAY high. tires, oil, anc chain/brake pads if needed.
as far as gear: even the nicest jacket is like 800...and they last you a while.
that is on the high-ish end of things, but not totally out of the ball park for buying all new stuff and not going through it redneck billy bob cheap like Jake does.
450X_FTW
> marshknute
06/14/2018 at 13:48 | 0 |
Get a 10+ year old 500cc street bike and you’ll only spend $2k. Maybe tires, brakes, fresh fluids, couple hundred tops. Riding gear - helmet, gloves, leather jacket, shoes, you can get for around $500, even cheaper if you buy used. If you want something bit newer, CBR500 is quick but won’t kill you like a full on crotch rocket will. Probably $3500-$4k for a 2013 model (when they first came out).
Gerry197
> KingT- 60% of the time, it works every time
06/14/2018 at 13:48 | 1 |
It is, I loved it so much I bought another one years later. A 2006 with a Salvage title for $1,200.
Just some damaged plastics I replaced with used take-off parts from Ebay for $150, torn seat for $55.
I have it fully insured with a $250 deduct, the replacement value is only $2,500 because it has a Salvage Title, but it’s actually worth almost double what I paid for it should it get stolen or totaled.
Just a great bike, I don’t think I’ll ever part with it.
thejustache
> marshknute
06/14/2018 at 13:55 | 1 |
I’m probably not the best source to go off because despite riding bikes since I was 16 (almost 14 years) and owning 4 different bikes, none of them have been newer than 1982. I also enjoy working on things, and although I’d much rather be riding then wrenching I don’t usually look at it as a chore.
I think owning a motorcycle can be as cheap as you want it to be, honestly. My first bike was a Honda cb360t I got for $400 and I had it for 2 years before it needed some repairs I didn’t know how to do at the time and I sold it. Obviously you want something newer and more reliable than that, and that’s fine. I’m just saying if you really really want a motorcycle you can EASILY make it happen with your $4k budget. Technically if you only ride in CT you don’t even need a helmet, although I’d HIGHLY recommend you have one (and a better than DOT one at that). I’m onto my second helmet, the $150 snell rated Scorpion exo r420 and I’m pretty happy with it. Beyond that I have a mesh jacket with armor I got for $1oo on discount and some gloves. I probably should get riding pants, but so far I haven’t - then again I commute on 55mph roads and wouldn’t take my bike on a track.
While again my bikes have been older and somewhat more prone to breaking than newer bikes might be, the most expensive maintenance item for me is tires by far. I seem to go through a $350 set of tires about ever 2 years, but that also depends on use. After that it’s oil changes and filters and $12 brake pads, but again that’s all standard stuff. I DD a 1978 kz750 twin and beyond that it needs occasional valve adjustments and has eaten a few electrical components. Everything I’ve ever needed ebay, amazon, and online parts stores have had for usually $10-40.
Your insurance estimates might be right for a newer bike, but for an older bike in NY I pay literally $12 a month. I’d say start with the MSF course, get a good decent helmet and jacket, and then see how much money you have left. If I was to do everything over I’d probably look for something like an sv650, or a dual sport. If you find one with close to new tires and brake pads, you can probably change the oil and ride for a season with little to no maintenance costs the first year. Good luck and happy riding!
So Shiney. So Chrome! So Frunky
> marshknute
06/14/2018 at 13:57 | 0 |
I see a few people recommending Ninja 250 and that is the de-facto beginner sport bike. Also consider the Ninja 500. It’s basically a sized up 250. There was one my friends passed around in college. Three friends learned on it. Each one laid it down and we just patched it up each time for less than $50. Really most Japanese bike are impossible to kill if you keep oil and coolant in them.
I bought an older Ninja 600 off craigslist as my second bike and it was a lemon because it had been crashed so many times and repaired by so many hacks. (Don’t worry about this, it is always visible I’m just cheap and stupid). Still after a rebuild of the carbs(all 4 of them), a brake job, and some tires and fluids I road-tripped that thing from Daytona Beach to Key West and back with no issues and road it all over commuting to class and wherever I wanted to go. Took it camping and rode a half mile down a sand trail once. Not ideal but the machine gave no shits. Miss that thing...
thejustache
> Decay buys too many beaters
06/14/2018 at 14:01 | 1 |
*1 carb is great... 2 carbs can be ok... 3+ carbs NOPE NOPE NOPE
There is a reason 3 out of the 4 bikes I’ve had have been twins... but also a reason why I’d like the next bike I get to have EFI
CaptDale - is secretly British
> marshknute
06/14/2018 at 14:02 | 0 |
Well I have had my bike 3 months now and spent about $3k. Though I did buy a basket case to start with
atfsgeoff
> marshknute
06/14/2018 at 14:04 | 0 |
Get something with FUEL INJECTION!
If you’re going for a brand new bike, I’d go for a Honda CB500x if you like standard upright positioning, or a Honda Rebel 500 if you like the cruiser style. Both of these are going to run about $6k for just the bike, which leaves you with $2k for the ancillaries.
Frankly, neither of those bikes should require anything besides chain lubrication and an oil change during the first year of riding, unless you’re gonna ride over 8,000 miles in your first year. If you do, you may need to replace your tires (motorcycle tires wear down a lot faster than car tires, usually lasting between 5,000 and 10,000 miles).
Decay buys too many beaters
> thejustache
06/14/2018 at 14:08 | 1 |
I guess my old carby twin wasn’t too bad, but my singles are so “set and forget” that I don’t even realize they are not FI. Hell 2/3 will start in the dead of winter with no choke needed!
Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
> Future next gen S2000 owner
06/14/2018 at 14:10 | 0 |
Price obviously varies due to location. Local shop here went through all four carbs on a Magna V42 for $500.
Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
> Future next gen S2000 owner
06/14/2018 at 14:10 | 0 |
K.
Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
> KingT- 60% of the time, it works every time
06/14/2018 at 14:11 | 1 |
R1 as first bike. Need something you can grow into. Or something.
nermal
> marshknute
06/14/2018 at 14:12 | 0 |
$4k will get you a used SV or Ninja 650 in decent shape.
Regular upkeep will include mostly oil changes, which should run $75 max. Tires should be ~$300 if needed, and brakes ~$100 for street pads.
$1k for gear is more than enough. The helmet is the most important part, don’t skimp there, and make sure you buy the first one in-store so you know it fits properly.
Once you get up to speed you’ll probably want to do a track day. Factor in ~$500 for fees for a weekend, plus another $1k for the extra gear you’ll need. Either use a pickup or rent a cheap Uhaul trailer to transport your bike. After the first weekend you’ll be hooked, at which point you’ll want to start saving up for the $75k - $125k needed for a nice diesel truck & toy hauler combo. If you go easy on the specs of the truck & trailer, you can free up ~$25k in the budget to buy a new R1 / ZX10 / GSXR / RSV4 and prep it to your taste.
TL;DR, sell kidneys, children, etc. Totally worth it.
Censored
> marshknute
06/14/2018 at 14:13 | 0 |
1k for gear might be light if you plan on following the ATGATT rule. A good helmet can easily tip 6-700.
500 in maintenance could also be light depending on the type of riding you intend on doing. If you are only going to do spirited riding, good soft tires will be a must and they don’t last long. You could easily have 500 in tires along per year.
SmugAardvark
> marshknute
06/14/2018 at 14:17 | 0 |
How big are you? If you’re under 6' and 200#, a Ninja 250 would make a fine first bike. You’ll get an amazingly nimble sport bike, but it won’t have the kind of power delivery to leave you sliding across the asphalt.
If you’re a larger person, you might look into something like a Suzuki SV650. That’s how I got my start (for the record, I’m about 6'3" and around 210 pounds), and it was a much better fit for me. Yes, they have more power than a 250, but the riding position was infinitely more comfortable.
And if everything was cared for by a responsible owner, your annual maintenance should come in well under $500 per year. Unless things start to break (which they shouldn’t on either of the two mentioned bikes if they were responsibly owned previously), you’re looking at just oil changes ($20-ish), and tires every once in awhile ($150-$250 for a decent pair). Most bike tires will last anywhere from 5,000 to 15,000 miles depending on what you buy and how aggressively you ride. Since it sounds like this is going to be a weekend toy, I don’t imagine you’ll be putting huge mileage on them. So they probably will last for more than one year.
Your estimate for riding gear seems pretty accurate. Just make sure you try it on and move about before you purchase it. Don’t buy blindly online unless you absolutely know it is going to fit correctly and be comfortable. And when trying stuff on, consider how it will feel in a range of conditions (sunny, cloudy, rainy, hot, cold, etc).
themanwithsauce - has as many vehicles as job titles
> Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
06/14/2018 at 14:34 | 0 |
Hornet has almost 100hp in north america (assuming you mean the CB599 or whatever we designated it) so NO that is NOT a good suggestion!
KingT- 60% of the time, it works every time
> Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
06/14/2018 at 14:40 | 0 |
Hayabusa or GTFO
Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
> themanwithsauce - has as many vehicles as job titles
06/14/2018 at 15:24 | 0 |
But they are excellent bikes.
Maybe not in this situation. I want an old one with the round headlight.
mmmmmmmm.
themanwithsauce - has as many vehicles as job titles
> Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
06/14/2018 at 17:57 | 1 |
Oh indeed, I for sure want a CB919 which was basiclaly that bike, but with a detuned CBR900RR motor.
MeatSaber
> marshknute
06/15/2018 at 08:15 | 1 |
It definitely varies by region, here in rural Pennsylvania insurance is dirt cheap, used bikes are dirt cheap, and there is even used gear you can pick up from riders that are getting out of the sport, or newer riders that didn’t like it as much as they thought they would.
Really it depends on how much you want to spend, if your okay starting on a clunker that might need a carb cleaning or a few mainentaince bits you can get an older used bike for 1000 bucks, even less sometimes.
Keep your eyes on the local postings and get feel for how your area operates. MSF courses are a great idea but keep in mind you may not even need a lisence to start riding, at least here in most of the states that is the case.
asenna
> marshknute
06/26/2018 at 13:53 | 1 |
Bikes particularly newer ones are really easy and cheap you can do an oil change yourself really easy. Your estimate is high you will easily be below that. excepting cost of storage.
Snowflake
> marshknute
02/24/2019 at 00:05 | 0 |
You’re far too much a pussy bitch to ride