99% sure its my radiator

"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch) 06/07/2018 at 19:12 • Filed to: None

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( !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! ’s FZJ105 for your time)

Stopped by the Land Cruiser museum today because I was having lunch nearby and because I had 30 minutes to kill. In addition to seeing the new arrivals (105 series...drool) I got to talk to the museums curator who happens to be the planet’s authority on 80 series and pretty much all Land Cruisers. Dude can spout of part numbers for just about any part on any cruiser off memory. Anyway, I mention I haven’t been out touring because of my cooling problem, we talk through it and he’s convinced its a flow problem.

I am too. I’ve done every conceivable test I can think and replaced any ancillary parts to the cooling system to have it NOT be the radiator. When I told him that it wasn’t overheating at all before I changed to a different brand that sealed the deal.

My temps on a short drive up the canyon the other day, for reference.

Backstory - My Toyota OE radiator tank started leaking like mad one day so I bought a koyorad...it didn’t fit, so I returned that and replaced it with another brand...it was the same radiator exactly in a different box so...it didn’t fit. So I bought the bullet and ordered an all metal CSF, it was supposed to have a good reputation and I thought the all metal unit would be better. It has not worked out well as you can see (FYI, though 221 may seem “cool” for some cars, the 1FZ-FE is supposed to sit between 186 and 217 max, 221 the gauge moves to red and anything above 226 is bad news.)

sigh. Im trying to get CSF on the phone to do an RMA but they wont answer. So its probably $300+ down the tube, plus another however much I want to spend.

$150 on the NAPA end to $350 for OE.

This guy bought the cheapie for his wife’s 80 (6 inch lifted battle wagon 80 that she fixes and wheels...badass) and its worked great.

What would you do? OE (mixed bag for durability but pretty sure it will cool properly) or cheapo (mix bag on reliability but seems to work and half the price)?

His Stigness > HammerheadFistpunch 06/07/2018 at 19:23

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If you bought the CSF with a credit card or through PayPal file a claim and that will get them on the phone pretty damn quick.

If the OE isn’t very durable I’d go aftermarket and then add water wetter to combat higher temps.

HammerheadFistpunch > His Stigness 06/07/2018 at 19:27

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Its been since January, but only now seeing temps that are unmanageable.

As for Water wetter. its effects are GREATLY exaggerated. i.e. its just a mild surfactant with some rust inhibitors. Basically the stuff thats already in coolant.

His Stigness > HammerheadFistpunch 06/07/2018 at 19:29

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I put Redline in my Mercedes (‘00 C230 Kompress0r) and I dropped well over 10 degrees C. But I also dropped the amount of actually coolant. I did 25% concentrate to distilled water.

LongbowMkII > HammerheadFistpunch 06/07/2018 at 19:31

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Looks like your thermostat opens at 175* so that’s neat

HammerheadFistpunch > His Stigness 06/07/2018 at 19:31

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After talking to so smart people on the subject the conclusion that I got is that water wetter is basically adding the minimal coolant properties for low water mixes like yours. It doesn’t offer freeze protection but it offers most of everything else coolant offers, only allowing for mostly water concentrations.

HammerheadFistpunch > LongbowMkII 06/07/2018 at 19:32

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173 is when it starts, 186 is fully open.

His Stigness > HammerheadFistpunch 06/07/2018 at 19:35

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That sounds about right. But I thought I read from Redline that you shouldn’t run just water and water wetter in modern cars. Or did I read you can’t just run water, you have to at least use water wetter?

HammerheadFistpunch > His Stigness 06/07/2018 at 19:40

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You shouldn’t run just water because the properties of anti-freeze are an important part of a cooling system’s ability to resist boiling. Glycol increase the boiling point and in concert with the pressure of the system allows you to run temps above 212 safely. There is a lot to it, my dad was an engineer that dealt with coolant a lot, I’ve seen his notes and his specs for our own hydronic system and there is a lot of math in there.

unclevanos (Ovaltine Jenkins) > HammerheadFistpunch 06/07/2018 at 19:41

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I would go el cheapo. Haven’t used OE or dealer parts since using the bmw. The only options for radiators for the e38 were behr which was oem and $$$. The oe radiator cooling isnt that great. Glad to have a parts car radiator for that scenario.

His Stigness > HammerheadFistpunch 06/07/2018 at 19:41

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Oh okay.

I’m guessing since you see actual weather up in Utah that you can’t run with just 25% concentrate in the Land Cruiser?

HammerheadFistpunch > His Stigness 06/07/2018 at 19:42

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yup.

DC3 LS, Fuck Hyundai, now and forever > HammerheadFistpunch 06/07/2018 at 22:58

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Unrelated, could I have authorship again plz?

Land Cruiser for your troubles.

adamftw > HammerheadFistpunch 06/08/2018 at 06:50

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If it’s REALLY OE and not “OE-spec” I’d go that route. Sucks about the CSF, they usually are pretty great. I assume an all-aluminum one like Griffin is way out of the question? What do guys use when they swap LSX motors in these things? Probably the same rad, its a shorter motor that doesn’t mind the heat.

pip bip - choose Corrour > HammerheadFistpunch 06/08/2018 at 07:03

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go genuine.

benjrblant > HammerheadFistpunch 06/08/2018 at 11:23

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At this point, I’d lean towards an OEM part just because that’s known to work. Anecdotal evidence of other brand working seems to be what contributed to this situation.

deekster_caddy > His Stigness 06/13/2018 at 13:45

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in addition to HF’s comment there are lubricants in antifreeze your water pump won’t be happy about missing out on. There are lubricant additives if you want, but even still if you just run 25% antifreeze you are way better off than pure water for lubrication and boil-over protection. Add water wetter if you are still having issues but it’s a band-aid/last resort kind of thing.

His Stigness > deekster_caddy 06/13/2018 at 14:29

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I run 25% and the water wetter and saw a nice drop in temps while keeping that factory lubrication and additive package. I also flush the coolant on a regular basis as I don’t want to do another head gasket.

deekster_caddy > His Stigness 06/13/2018 at 14:40

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If you are in hot weather climates this is probably your best arrangement. If in cold weather climates go to 50% for your optimal freeze protection too. Assuming your cooling system is working right, and you have heat problems at 50%, your 25% solution is spot on. (assuming you have made other engine modifications of some kind, otherwise 50% should be just fine)

His Stigness > deekster_caddy 06/13/2018 at 15:57

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I didn’t have cooling issues, I actually corrected one that I didn’t know I had. Before I replaced the head gasket my Mercedes ran at about 80 C. I changed the gasket and replaced all normal parts, including the thermostat. So after I was done I was at 90c and I thought I had a problem. It was then I found out my car was supposed to be at 90, and the whole time I had the car up to that point the thermostat was always partially open. But I didn’t like my car being that hot, so I changed the mixture down to 25% and added water wetter. Not I’m at 75-80 C all the time.