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"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile) 05/09/2018 at 21:07 • Filed to: None

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edit to possibly unkinja, since it only shows !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! half the time..

Nibby > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 05/09/2018 at 21:15

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i think the galaxy might be my favorite 60s american car

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > Nibby 05/09/2018 at 21:26

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I wanted a ‘61-’64 for probably 12+ years before I got mine, but hadn’t got serious until one day when my cousin sent me a craigslist link. :D

Nibby > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 05/09/2018 at 21:28

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did you drive it

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > Nibby 05/09/2018 at 21:38

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I did test it before I bought it, but that was like “drive it 20 feet out of a car shelter and over to the side of the road”. It wasn’t an epic test drive because the brakes were dicked and it wasn’t running quite right.

But seriously, we’d been looking at old four doors for hyucks for a couple of weeks and he sent me the link and I was all

and he was all

And I was all

and he was all

and I was all

and we went.

Goggles Pizzano > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 05/09/2018 at 21:39

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#whateverthatssuperposedtomean

Nibby > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 05/09/2018 at 21:44

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you still have it? pics?

WilliamsSW > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 05/09/2018 at 21:44

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RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > Nibby 05/09/2018 at 21:50

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https://oppositelock.kinja.com/fomoco-money-fomoco-problems-1790707417

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > Goggles Pizzano 05/09/2018 at 21:53

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It was kinja’d . I take it you didn’t try re-clicking the post time link?

It’s only appearing for me half the time, but it doesn’t appear to have anything to do with edit time. It’s showing it with the embed with and without my edit note, so long story short, Kinja sucks.

RallyWrench > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 05/09/2018 at 23:25

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Oh dear yes please, give now. Every time I hate cars (several hours of every day) I end up thinking, “but I fuckin’ LOVE Galaxies...and, crap, I guess cars aren’t so bad...” Then I look at Craigslist for awhile.

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > RallyWrench 05/10/2018 at 09:07

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I think one of the things I like most is how period-correct and sane and non-cookie-cutter it is. He’s kept the R-code 15"s instead of modern buffonery, he hasn’t fucked with the rear suspension, it’s four-wheel disc *with the right parts* and a Ford non-power dual circuit master, it’s still manual steering, he hasn’t bodged in non-original A/C... It’s just *right*.

You know, it’s not another arbitrary car that’s been fucked over with a small steering wheel, RetroSound radio and new speaker locations, giant chrome wheels, an ididit steering column, and so on. (vomits)

RallyWrench > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 05/10/2018 at 14:27

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Yup, it’s perfect. Dogdish caps on steelies with some fat rear tires are my style. Like that amazing gold one at Laguna Seca last year.

I trawl for Galaxies at least 3 times a week on SearchTempest, and *if* they’re even roadworthy they all either have 1)huge wheels 2) gaudy paint 3) no/shitty interior 4)missing trim 5)fuckery.

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > RallyWrench 05/10/2018 at 14:41

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I was lucky in that mine was only a bad partial resto and neglect. Did you see my post on bench material?

https://oppositelock.kinja.com/here-s-a-possibility-for-replacing-the-fabric-on-the-ga-1825761944

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > RallyWrench 05/10/2018 at 18:39

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Another remark/Galaxie incitement: I’m making plans to tool up for a replacement for the wacky front suspension cranks. Rod stock, steel plate, studs, and a 7/16-12 die. What I’m trying to say is, if you get a 63/64, I should have nearly $300 in improvement for it basically free from doing mine.

RallyWrench > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 05/11/2018 at 00:02

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Now that’s cool, duly noted.

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > RallyWrench 05/11/2018 at 09:55

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You recall the stock wacky cranks, right? Go through the frame like so, pivot in threaded sleeve:

Stock Ford wacky crank replacement was with bronze bushings, a sleeve and a straight-through bolt like so:

Doesn’t 100% preserve the bolt angle, let alone location, and involves jamming a bushing into threads in the chassis. Not great. Also, as reproduced by Rare Parts, crazy expensive.

That setup keeps from rotating by locking against the bottom of the chassis with a tab on the near side bushing:

Here’s what I’m planning to make:

A piece of 1 1/2" steel rod stock turned down on one end so that I can thread it at 1-7/16" X 12 and put it (securely, with Lock-Tite!) in the original threads, and a bolt going through it to secure a 1" plate, which in turn will have a 3/4" stud threaded into it. So, that’s 1. rod stock, 2. die, 3. studs, and 4. plate that I need to buy.

3/4 bolt and 2" washer I can get almost anywhere.

To keep from rotating, I’d be doing this:

Of course, what I’d really like to do is preserve a tiny element of wacky crank function without impairing driveability. I’d like to make a threaded-around-the-edge plate to which I could weld square tubing and make what amounted to a tiny Torflex stub axle.

Would this not be the ideal solution? *Limited* yield on demand, extra shock damping, no oscillation, self-centering with spring action, and completely maintenance-free. The only thing against it would be turning the bushing loose in the frame, and that’s solvable with a tab like either of the things above. Also a problem with the stock cranks, I might add.

Only trouble is, knowing the correct amount of preload and thereby o-ring stock to buy, and knowing the best way to press it all together. Since nobody makes an ATV-trailer Torflex with a 3" action arm that I’m aware of.

RallyWrench > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 05/11/2018 at 15:07

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Yeah, I’m not even going to pretend to be that smart. Remind me again, it’s the bronze bushings that go on the original wacky cranks, or the crank pin itself that wears? Looks much simpler/stronger/durable to run a fat (replaceable) stud out of the well secured plate. Would the trailer-style setup deflect too much? Methinks you’d need some pretty serious rubber stock to bear the kind of load this setup seems to have... I’m imagining the funky angle of the crank putting weird side loads on it, no? I have no experience with those, and cannot brain.

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > RallyWrench 05/11/2018 at 15:31

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The wacky crank has a square thrust thread into the chassis bushing (like a Ford upper A-arm) so that as it swings back and forth, it moves slightly forward and back. Slightly. It has an o-ring as a grease seal and has a shoulder that rides on a bronze bushing inside the threaded chassis tube.

This means that the actual wear surface is on the opposite end of the tube from the grease fitting, because of course it is. You can replace the bushing, but it’s not a standard size so much, and will go right back to being sloppy and hard to install and having no buffering to keep it from left/right sway. Or, if the nut is loose or the bushing fails, turning the crank in one full revolution, jamming it into the sleeve, and then turning the sleeve loose in the chassis. No, really.

The replacement with bronze bushings I talked about for the second pic was that the Ford “taxi” round, shouldered plates were bronze, and the Rare Parts ones are steel. The whole kit looks like this:

$300 for what you see there. Cornered market. In fairness, it’s all harderned and the arm-side bushings have a shoulder, notch, hole... like five machining steps, but still.

Here’s my sleeve and plate idea overlaid on the original sleeve and crank:

As to the trailer style deflecting, it can’t deflect over 45 degrees by design (or there’s not enough rubber), and it’s as you said a question of getting some hard enough. But, I think O-ring stock matches up. It’s constrained on all sides and has to be literally crushed, so it’d be stiffer than you’d think. Loads, no question. There’s no direct chassis load, and the lever is short, and axles in a 1 1/2" tube or so can support a thousand pounds on a 7" lever arm.. The tube twisting loose from torque is the only item of concern.

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > RallyWrench 05/11/2018 at 16:20

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#FlagrantMisuseOfAutoCADAtWork

Looks like we’re looking at 1 1/2" DOM tubing with .156 wall, square tubing @7/8" X .063 wall and relieved corners, and 1/2" square stock or better, with .236" or .250 Buna-N 70 stock - might need .250" for enough preload (on left).

That’s about $20 worth of steel and a couple of bucks worth of O-ring. *If* the 1/2" stock will resist enough torque. Might need to go to .120 wall tube, broach for 1" square, and upgrade to 5/8" square axle.

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > RallyWrench 05/11/2018 at 17:31

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Did some back of the envelope style checking, and though I think the orthogonal force at times on the crank up/down (in shear) may be as much as 700lb, the torque transmitted through the crank (if seized) would most likely never exceed 30 ft-lb. There’s just no mechanical advantage. 4ksi between shear and torque, out of a minimum of 36ksi available. Now, that’s not counting beam stresses, but it looks like ordinary 1/2" square steel would be fine.

Shit, I wasn’t actually trying to talk myself into making the Improved WackyCrank, but I’m nearly there.