How would oppo approach this? (edit: going with the cold chisel suggestion). Thanks everyone!

"Noah - Now with more boost." (antriebverliebt)
04/12/2018 at 10:57 • Filed to: None

Its the very last bit of disassembly before I can slap the big brake kit on and hit the road after 2 months of this BS. The puller I bought didn’t work and I don’t want to destroy this with a pickle fork. My current thought is that I should hammer a sacrificial flatblade (or 2) in there and continue the regimen of torching and smashing the damn thing with a mallet.

edit:

Here’s the answer! (I hope) Shoutout to Urambo for being the first to suggest picking up a chisel for this purpose. This isn’t exactly rocket science but the moral support and detailed suggestions were much appreciated. As always Oppo, you da fuckin’ best.

DISCUSSION (23)

Urambo Tauro > Noah - Now with more boost.
04/12/2018 at 11:10

Use a chisel or wedge of some sort to spread those ears apart.

Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo > Noah - Now with more boost.
04/12/2018 at 11:11

Disclaimer: I have very little idea of what I am looking at here and even less experience with ball joints and tie rods (that is next weekend’s project!). I’ve seen Edd China use two hammers to “clap” the stuck portion to good effect. Based on the picture, I’d be worried the join is under load and look into a way to (safely) relieve that load via ratchet strap or jack. Disclaimer repeat: I have very little idea of what I am looking at here and even less experience with ball joints and tie rods

Noah - Now with more boost. > Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo
04/12/2018 at 11:13

Nope! Obvs the picture is terrible but that big wood block is supporting the A arm like a big wedge so it doesn’t move :)

Noah - Now with more boost. > Urambo Tauro
04/12/2018 at 11:14

Roger that. I’m gonna hit up the hardware store for inspiration.

deekster_caddy > Noah - Now with more boost.
04/12/2018 at 11:25

Heat always helps but will likely destroy the boot. I also find that tapping on the side of the seat helps. And by “tapping” I mean smashing it pretty hard with a small sledge. Is that a slot opening to the seat area? Can you just hammer a wedge into the slot?

Echo51 > Urambo Tauro
04/12/2018 at 11:27

Can confirm this, defo helps to not have both corrosion+rust AND the clamp holding against your attempts.

E92M3 > Noah - Now with more boost.
04/12/2018 at 11:28

What model car? There is no castle nut looks like? Can you share a pic of the top of the arm?

nerd_racing > Noah - Now with more boost.
04/12/2018 at 11:40

Get a soft hammer (bronze works well) and strike the knuckle quite hard to shock the taper lock loose. If his does not work, consider an air hammer with soft anvil for higher frequency vibration.

nerd_racing > Urambo Tauro
04/12/2018 at 11:41

Just be careful not to kick burrs into the pinch bolt area or snap off an ear on the knuckle.

Twingo Tamer - About to descend into project car hell. > Noah - Now with more boost.
04/12/2018 at 11:57

Bigass chisel into the split then fork to push them apart is my method. Fork can be used a bit more lightly to prevent damage once the join is opened up.

e36Jeff now drives a ZHP > Noah - Now with more boost.
04/12/2018 at 12:08

Is that a bushing attached to the knuckle via a pinch bolt? If so, that seems like a bad design. But I’d try to spread the pinch, copious amounts of heat then try to spray freeze-off in the pinch to hit the stud. might also be worth seeing if you can get the boot separately, if so, just whack it with the pickle fork.

Noah - Now with more boost. > e36Jeff now drives a ZHP
04/12/2018 at 12:16

Yep. There are a bunch of really stupid designs on this car. Chiefly, the throttle body to intercooler hose that makes bull frog and/or tea kettle noises at the slightest provocation.

Noah - Now with more boost. > nerd_racing
04/12/2018 at 12:17

I’ll give the surrounding area a few taps. The smashing has been on the wheel bearing assembly, which is toast and needs to come out. Not exactly the best way to transfer force.

Noah - Now with more boost. > E92M3
04/12/2018 at 12:19

2009 WRX, full of really stupid designs like this. No castle nut. Its just pressed in there. I’ll get you your pic if I’m still stumped by this afternoon!

PartyPooper2012 > Noah - Now with more boost.
04/12/2018 at 12:43

fork it...

Kinja'd!!!

Noah - Now with more boost. > PartyPooper2012
04/12/2018 at 12:55

I have one! But don’t want to destroy the boot. Also a puller didn’t help so I don’t know that this would?

PartyPooper2012 > Noah - Now with more boost.
04/12/2018 at 12:58

When in doubt, BFH?

Noah - Now with more boost. > PartyPooper2012
04/12/2018 at 13:00

hahah for sure, last resort before getting so impatient that I hack it off and buy new parts is a trip to the store for a sledgehammer. I have the A arm wedged in place by a big wood block, so the force doesn’t leave the knuckle, but that ball joint is loose enough to displace some of that energy by just wobbling around. I’ve been whaling on the bearing assembly with a mallet to no avail.

nerd_racing > Noah - Now with more boost.
04/12/2018 at 13:45

You might want to make them thumps and directly on the knuckle flat that is as forged opposite the pinch bolt.

WhiskyTangoFoxtrot > Noah - Now with more boost.
04/12/2018 at 14:15

Spread the pinch joint a bit with a pry bar, and wail away on the flat to the right of the pinch joint with a ball-peen hammer (had to do something similar on my Ranger, though I had to pound out a bolt).

E92M3 > Noah - Now with more boost.
04/12/2018 at 14:16

Ok, make sure there’s no circular retaining clip on top holding it in place.

Noah - Now with more boost. > WhiskyTangoFoxtrot
04/12/2018 at 14:24

I got it off!!!

Noah - Now with more boost. > E92M3
04/12/2018 at 14:24

I got the fucking thing off!!!!