Is it worth buying another car?

"dogisbadob" (dogisbadob) 04/03/2018 at 21:14 • Filed to: None

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Right now, I have a 1996 I30 (Maxima) with about 280k. It passed inspection (good until 2020), but has a lot of rust, including the radiator support, which will cost at least $600 in labor from a local body shop. It might be leaking a little bit too, as sometimes it smells inside when there is heavy rain. All the electronics work, including the cigarette lighter, windows, locks, etc, except the motorized antenna which is stuck in the up position. It has heated seats and mirrors. The interior is mostly in good shape, but with a few tears, but definitely not bad for the age and mileage. The AC is cold, and I’ve never had a problem with the AC in the three years I’ve owned the car.
 
However, besides the rust, I still can’t adjust the TPS just right. Even after I adjust it so it has the correct resistance values, sometimes it still jerks or otherwise doesn’t behave properly. Rarely, it will stall. (It used to stall constantly before I replaced it) I do find it annoying.
 
The PCV valve has some oil around it, even after replacing it. Both the old and new PCV valve were/are OEM Nissan. The EGR tube may also need to be cleaned out, but that job can be difficult as well. Gas mileage around 20 mpg combined city/hwy, which is just one less than the new 2008-adjusted EPA figure for this car.
 
I replaced one of the fuel injectors about 2 years ago. Luckily, it was in the front bank that you can actually access, but if any of the rear injectors go, taking apart half the engine again will be a huge undertaking, plus having to buy all three injectors! I already replaced the valve cover gaskets, so I know how difficult the job is to get to the back of the engine. I don’t want to do that again.
 
I am considering buying another car, a Mazda 6 hatchback, with a 4-cylinder engine and a manual transmission. It is a hatchback, which is more practical, the manual transmission, has a rear wiper, better cupholders, most likely better gas mileage and easier to work on. The clearcoat is starting to wear, but there is no rust. The biggest issue with these cars seems to be rust, but the one I found isn’t rusty.
 
The particular example I am considering is about $2000 and has a couple issues like any car in this price range. The cigarette lighters don’t work (previous owner was a smoker), could either be a fuse or the lighters need to be replaced (doesn’t seem that difficult/expensive to do). The headliner is sagging. The radio display is garbled. The AC isn’t cold (but the heat is hot). It might need tires (again, not a big deal, as tires are a wear item). It has an oil change sticker from Jiffy Lube with a due date about 1000 miles more than what is on the car now (in the high 170's). And a couple other slight cosmetic issues.
 
My biggest concern with the car is that when I scanned it with an OBD2 scanner, it shows 4 monitors not ready (cars newer than 2001 are only allowed to have one monitor not ready). However, the car did run/drive smooth. Although this may indicate either the dealer or the previous owner resetting the computer before selling the car, it is also possible that either it will be fine, or that the problem won’t be difficult or expensive even if the CEL does come on (for example, oxygen sensors are about $30 and very easy to replace)
 
So, is it worth buying the Mazda? The issues seem less serious than what I have now, but my biggest reservations are the cigarette lighters and the OBD not being ready.

hillrat > dogisbadob 04/03/2018 at 21:21

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You can’t fight rust and win in the long term, get the Mazda.

daender > dogisbadob 04/03/2018 at 21:44

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The OBD-II is a red flag to me, ask the owner why it wasn’t fully ready.

facw > dogisbadob 04/03/2018 at 21:47

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David says slap some zip-ties on it, it will be fine:

!!! UNKNOWN CONTENT TYPE !!!

dogisbadob > daender 04/03/2018 at 21:51

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It’s not a private seller, so they might not know themselves.

daender > dogisbadob 04/03/2018 at 21:57

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It’s still something you can try to leverage a lower price if they can’t figure it out.

If you can take it out for a test drive, then here’s the Mazda OBD-II drive cycle to check emissions...dunno if it applies because I’m unsure of the age of said Mazda 6. https://trackdogracing.com/OBDII.aspx You might be able to get it to pass after following these steps.

Mazda drive cycle:

Pre-requisites: MIL off and no DTCs present (this is where clearing your codes comes in); fuel level between 15 and 85%; all accessories OFF; cold start (preferred 8 hour cold soak w/ engine between 68 and 86 deg F at start-up)

1) Start vehicle and idle 5 min.

2) Rev engine in neutral or park to 2300-2700 rpm for 15 seconds

3)Rev engine in neutral or park to 3800-4200 rpm for 15 seconds

4)Idle engine for 20 seconds with cooling fan stopped.

5)Accelerate to 52-55 mph, maintain speed (in high gear) for 1 1/2 minutes

6) Decelerate to 15 mph, and then drive for 13 minutes at speeds ranging from 15 to 35 mph

7) maintain steady 25 mph for 50 seconds.

Each step of the drive cycle indicates a test for a different monitor on the vehicle (catalyst, o2 sensor, evap, etc) so each step is important. Some vehicles are a pain and may require a few drive cycles.

Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo > dogisbadob 04/03/2018 at 22:01

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The devil you know...

Save up for a larger budget, if possible. $2,000 price range is a dangerous place. Trust me, I know.

Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) > dogisbadob 04/03/2018 at 22:37

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Shiiit 20mpg in a Maxima? My STi can achieve 20 without too much trouble. I would have thought you’d get around 25ish

shop-teacher > dogisbadob 04/03/2018 at 22:50

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It does sound like getting rid of the i30 soon is a good idea. I dunno about that Mazda though. I’d keep looking.

Maxima Speed > dogisbadob 04/03/2018 at 23:57

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I owned a 1997 Maxima (my brother still drives it. The car is bullet proof. It’s up to 330,000 + miles on it. It leaks oil when running, struts are shot, every bolt on the car is rusted, the whole engine bay stays coated in oil from the main engine seals and it randomly over heats, that along with the rust on the body makes it a lost cause, but it will not die. The car will literally fall apart before it stops running. That car has never left me stranded there have been times I left it and realized that I didn’t have to. One time of the wires to the starter broke in half and I stripped the wires twisted it back together in the work parking lot and it’s still driving 2 years later. Those cars will always get you there, just maybe not on time. If I were in your place (which I was about 2 years ago), I would hmG on to it for a little longer save up around $3000 to $4000 that gives you enough to buy a really decent, reliable, car, which will last you a while.

Long-Voyager > Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) 04/04/2018 at 07:35

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You’re bragging about getting the same mileage from a smaller car, with a smaller engine, and 2 extra gears?

I would have thought you’d get around 25ish.

Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) > Long-Voyager 04/04/2018 at 09:42

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Bragging? No way, it is more of gallows humor. I was just confused since a 96 Maxima isnt really a big car. The STi does weigh ~250 pounds more and makes 100 extra HP, so I just would expect the Maxima to outperform in mileage. I am not a Subaru fan-boi by any stretch of the imagination nor could I ever pull of the “dude-bro” thing. I also thought this car could achieve 25mpg on the highway but that seems damn near impossible.

Long-Voyager > Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) 04/04/2018 at 10:14

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Wasn’t trying to rip on you by any means.

I just find it funny that 20 ish years of tech and a smaller car with a smaller engine and 1-2 extra gears only achieves the same mileage. Your car should easily break 30mpg hwy, IMO.

Performance-wise, the Maxima was quite impressive for it’s day. 190hp/205ft-lbs pulling the quarter in 15.5 secs. The 2013 could achieve the quarter in 14.3 secs with a CVT.

Personally a family sedan from the 90s only being 2 secs slower in the quarter than a modern performance car while getting the same mileage is quite impressive. 

Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) > Long-Voyager 04/04/2018 at 10:20

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30 would be a bit crazy. I mean my Miata with half the horsepower and none of that AWD and turbo nonsense getting in the way barely breaks 30 unless I hypermile it. But yeah achieving mid 20s doesn’t sound too wild. I think the silly part was I once drove 100% highway for an entire tank, didnt really accelerate much, just had cruise control set to about 80-85 for 2.5 hours and still just barely achieved like 21.something. I guess if I went slower I could do a little better but damn would that be boring in the middle of the night through the high desert.

Long-Voyager > Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) 04/04/2018 at 10:24

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I don’t find it crazy at all.

GMs with the 3800 had no issue pulling 30mpg, in cars like the Lesabre, Impala, etc. They did that with an old outdated motor and a 4-speed trans.

Hell my built 1995 3.0 5-speed could average 32mpg in mixed driving.