"Agrajag" (Agrajag)
02/22/2018 at 23:04 • Filed to: dems da brakes, w123, 240d
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"Agrajag" (Agrajag)
02/22/2018 at 23:04 • Filed to: dems da brakes, w123, 240d | 1
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Fitting is seized to the line so it will not swivel. What should have been a simple rotor and pad swap has turned into a multi-day headache.
Noticed a tear in piston seal thing when taking out the old pads. Ordered new calipers. Went to remove the brake hose from the first caliper and realized the hose had a hole in it. Ordered those. While putting on the second side I realized the caliper was missing the pad retaining hardware. Ordered that.(at no charge but still added one more day)
Got the line and hose fitting to break free from eachother, but had to cut the old hose so it could rotate since we had no swivel action at our disposal. After a liberal application of pb blaster and a short passage of time, I gave another go at freeing the fitting. Nothing doing. And at this point I don’t trust that my attempts haven’t further ruined the line so it will get replaced.
It’s a short section and not a complicated shape but it is still a damn annoying situation.
LOREM IPSUM
> Agrajag
02/22/2018 at 23:53 |
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Murphy’s law, I know ye well.
Doctor of internal combustion
> Agrajag
02/23/2018 at 08:13 |
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I’ve been a mechanic in upstate New York (i.e. the RUST belt) for 20+ years. I wish our brake lines looked that good. Here’s a tip on how to deal with seized fittings:
Heat the fitting with a torch until it’s red. be careful to only heat the fitting, not the line. put a deep socket over the line from the bottom and with a ratchet, impact, drill, cordless screwdriver or whatever you have, spin the crap out of the fitting. this will free it up and it should spin easily once it cools. FYI, if there is still brake fluid in the line you will get a little flame out of the line. Depress your brake pedal with a long extension or board wedged into the seat. (we use our snow brush for this) this will cover the ports in your master cylinder and prevent the fluid from continuing to run out. Also never do this with the brake hose still connected unless you intend on replacing it, as the heat will cause the crimp to expand and the hose will pop, loudly.
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> Doctor of internal combustion
02/23/2018 at 09:55 |
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Very cool tip. Have you ever tried one of those induction heaters to heat up parts? Been wanting to try one. Seems less destructive than an open flame.
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Doctor of internal combustion
> merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc
02/23/2018 at 10:57 |
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Yes, they work very well. I use them where fire could cause collateral damage. usually, though, I just grab the hot wrench. after years of working on rusted junk, you just instinctively grab the torch before you even put a socket on things
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> Doctor of internal combustion
02/23/2018 at 22:28 |
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That’s good to know.