![]() 11/29/2018 at 17:41 • Filed to: project golf ball | ![]() | ![]() |
Good news is the Wagovan made it to and from the exhaust shop, including a couple stints at 75 MPH on the highway. The bad news is it isn’t... quite right.
The idle, while perfect at start up, creeps up as the car warms up. When I parked it at work, it was up to 1800 RPM. That is too damn high.
[toodamnhigh.png]
Also, when getting on the gas on the on ramp it... wanted none of it. Started to sputter and (maybe) lightly backfire through the carb. It certainly did a stumble or two and REALLY didn’t want to get up to speed.
I have some thoughts:
Could be running lean? I never turned the carb because it didn’t, initially, seem to need it. This is step 1 when I get home... probably.
Intake leak that only happens when the engine is hot? Possible? I leak checked it cold and it was tight as a drum, but it wouldn’t hurt to check again.
Idle is improperly adjusted? I raised it a bit when I first got it running, but it’s possible what I really meant to raise was the choke high idle, thereby overshooting on the non-high idle? Weber’s documentation on this is somewhat lacking. More research required.
Timing is off? Unlikely as idle is idle? I think? Pinching the vacuum advance doesn’t seem to change anything, but, again, won’t hurt to check.
Fuel pressure too high? I’ve never done a fuel pressure check, so it is possible the carb is being overwhelmed. I’m not super enthused about doing a fuel pressure check, but I have the equipment to do it.
New exhaust is somehow ruining everything? The problem existed before, but wasn’t as bad. Then again I hadn’t taken it on the highway before so. Probably a red herring? (Sidenote: the exhaust guy offered to buy it haha. This is my punishment for not taking him up on that. No I don’t think he did anything bad to it. Super cool guy.)
Something I’m not thinking of?
What does Oppo think?
![]() 11/29/2018 at 17:49 |
|
exhaust guy offered to buy it?
welp... dude found your problem and knows its an easy fix... (i mean... shit it got spotted by a guy that swaps exhausts and tires:p)
(no offense to exhaust guys.. im a little grumpy today.... but yeah... my rule of thumb is if a mechanic offers to buy it.... its fixable and still profitable)
![]() 11/29/2018 at 17:50 |
|
What’s it telling you? How does the exhaust smell? How do the plugs look? How’s the dizzy cap and rotor?
![]() 11/29/2018 at 17:52 |
|
I t didn’t really start acting up until after I was away from his shop. I’d expect he thought it was playing nice at the time. I guess he was a Honda guy back in the day, but hadn’t owned one this old or weird and was intrigued haha.
![]() 11/29/2018 at 17:55 |
|
Still at work, haven’t had a chance to tear into it yet. Exhaust smells like hot oil mostly. Thinking I’m still burning off stuff... or have bad rings or valves...
Ordinarily I would have torn into the plugs, dizzy, etc, already, but I am trying to have a lighter touch with this car. Not sure if that is a good idea or not...
![]() 11/29/2018 at 17:57 |
|
I’d suggest either running lean or a vacuum leak. Good luck, hopefully the old girl is back on the road soon.
![]() 11/29/2018 at 17:57 |
|
You can still have a light touch, but you should know what you’re lightly touching. At least check it out and investigate before deciding to pretend there isn’t a pile of hot schmoo hiding under the bed. Then you’ll know.
![]() 11/29/2018 at 17:58 |
|
lol fair enough
i doubt its the new exhaust causing it.... and i cant think of anything to add to your list of things to try
![]() 11/29/2018 at 18:21 |
|
Definitely check fuel pressure, Webers don’t like more than 2.5 psi. Mine is still dieseling a fair amount when I shut it off hot, so once I’ve got in tuned so I know I’m not rich, I might have to back off to 2.25 or 2 psi
![]() 11/29/2018 at 21:27 |
|
Sounds like a vacuum leak. Does disconnecting the vacuum advance do anything? If not, it’s possible the diaphragm is bad and it’s both preventing the can from making it advance and is also a significant vacuum leak. Had that happen before.
Next guess is carb tuning.
![]() 12/06/2018 at 09:35 |
|
It did have a fairly substantial exhaust leak right? The extra backpressure from a working exhaust cascades back through the engine,
so a tune would probably be top of my list (usually no exhaust makes it run lean due to more airflow
, adding exhaust makes it rich as airflow is reduced
)
.
![]() 12/06/2018 at 09:56 |
|
My first guess is timing. Get that set, run the car til the thermostat opens, then set the carb. Advancing the timing will speed up the idle. Set the idle with the choke disconnected. Reconnect the choke and then set the high idle up when the engine is cold. Or, leave the choke off and see how it does? If it works as it should then you know the issue is choke-related.
I would pull the distributor, rotor and plugs and either clean them all or start fresh. It’s cheap and easy and establishes a baseline. Then I would check the oil level and drive the shit out of it for a d ay or so and then check the oil level again.
How is the valve cover gasket? Easy to change and will stop the oil burning smell if its seeping.