"MUSASHI66" (musashi66)
11/23/2018 at 19:44 • Filed to: None
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"MUSASHI66" (musashi66)
11/23/2018 at 19:44 • Filed to: None | 1
| 11 |
Today, my old man and myself decided to tackle the oxygen sensor one more time. This time, we removed the front passenger side wheel , and some little flaps that separate the engine compartment from the outside world.
There it was, in all its glory - manifold oxygen sensor. Tried using the torch, wouldn’t budge. Tried PB blaster, wouldn’t budge. Tried hitting it with a freshly sharpened metal chisel, nope. So, it was time to remove the manifold.
Step 1, remove 4 bolts which hold the heat shield in place. Easy enough. I needed lot of extensions for my socket set, but it was easy.
Step 2, remove the 8 nuts holding the manifold. 4 top ones, easy peasy. 2 bottom ones, fairly easy. Third bottom one, hard but not impossible. 4th one, no go. No fucking way of getting to it because the engine mount is in the way. I could get the socket over the nut, but then I couldn’t connect the angle piece as there was no room. Every video I watched said you have to remove the mount for drivers side only. I guess they all lied or they had some magic tools I didn’t.
Step 3 - remove engine mount. Put another jack under the engine - not easy to find a spot that you can use - and make sure the engine rests on it. Remove 4 bolts which hold the mount. Pull on the mount and that gives you enough clearance to get to the last manifold nut. This was probably the easiest part of the whole job
Step 4 - remove the three nuts connecting the manifold to the exhaust flange. No go - seized, completely. Dremel tool to the rescue - chop them off. Super pain in the butt - no room down there. Finally got them chopped off, then pried the pieces apart as they were caked together.
Step 5 - fix the used manifold I got from a guy which removed his for TRD supercharger installation (so jelly). I had to retread the flange bolts as they were messed up - I had a set of new ones, but surprise surprise, completely seized. Thankfully I had the 10x1.25 tool handy to do so.
Step 6 - install the new ogygen sensor, install the manifold, connect everything, make sure I have no leftover bolts or nuts.
Step 7 - turn the truck on. Everything works. Nothing buzzes. It drives well. Check engine light - STILL ON!!! Faaakkkk.
We replaced the air filter as well, added a bottle of CRC “guaranteed to pass emissions” - not sure what else to do. Anyone with a failed emissions test? What did you to your car to make it pass? Check engine light is not an issue - it’s jusy an advisory fail, but the CO2 was 4x the allowed and HC was 1.37 (allowed 1.2). Should I preemptively replace the MAP sensor ($90-180) or just clean it? Any other sensor to replace or look into? Replace the cats? Truck has 132k miles and it’s 18 years old. It’s running like a well oiled machine other than this
This is why I drive new cars...7 hours of work, chunk of skin missing, and still not sure if I’ll pass emissions.
Victorinoo
> MUSASHI66
11/23/2018 at 20:51 |
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That stinks after all that work. What code is it throwing now?
dogisbadob
> Victorinoo
11/23/2018 at 22:26 |
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+1
What is the code?
nermal
> MUSASHI66
11/23/2018 at 22:31 |
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Did you clear the code with an OBD thingy?
If not, you should do that.
How old are the spark plugs? If you don’t know, replace. High HC means incomplete combustion.
Then dump a bottle of Sea Foam in the tank and take it out for an Italian tune-up.
OPPOsaurus WRX
> MUSASHI66
11/23/2018 at 22:38 |
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kinda on line with what nermal said, I think it takes some time form the system to recalculate some things so that light could remain on for like 35 miles or something before it could reset itself. I could be wrong tho so google it i guess.
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MUSASHI66
> nermal
11/23/2018 at 23:30 |
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I didn’t scan it after we did this, I’ll probably take it to autozone to have the code removed. Might just have to buy a Bluetooth odb2 dongle now that I pretty much own the truck again. I think it’s code p15x something, and it is for the oxygen sensor passenger side, front sensor.
Spark plugs might be original from 18 years ago - not sure if my dad ever had them changed. That’s a good point, I’ll look into how hard they are to replace. Thanks!
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MUSASHI66
> OPPOsaurus WRX
11/23/2018 at 23:32 |
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I’ll have to. Problem is the registration expired and I’m not supposed to drive it, but I might have to bite the bullet around the hood, although that’s where they got me a few days ago. I have to pass emissions to get it registered, or spend $750 trying to fix it and get the exemption if it still doesn’t work.
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MUSASHI66
> Victorinoo
11/23/2018 at 23:32 |
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Didn’t check after replacing, same check engine light. I’m not sure if they go away after a while or not.
The last stock SC 5speed
> MUSASHI66
11/24/2018 at 06:36 |
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The first time I saw a first gen Tundra I remember being amazed at how much open space there was around the motor and thinking I could do headers on one in an hour. Guess that was wrong.
Disconnect the battery for a minute to clear the code.
Do the spark plugs for sure.
Feed it Seafoam through a vacuum line to a warm engine.
Clean the MAF
Clean the throttle body
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MUSASHI66
> The last stock SC 5speed
11/24/2018 at 11:01 |
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Just talked to my dad, he never replaced the spark plugs - they are 18 years old. Truck is working perfectly but I guess it is polluting more than it should.
I poured a bottle of CRC guaranteed to pass liquid in there - I’m guessing that’s like sea foam?
GoodIdeaAtTheTime
> MUSASHI66
11/24/2018 at 11:55 |
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They do not just go away. It is OBD2, so it will need to be cleared and the readiness monitors will need to be reset with some drive cycles. You can try disconnecting both battery terminals and short the 2 cables together fro a few minutes , don’t do this with the battery hooked up! It discharges and resets everything. Sometimes just disconnecting the ground cable ins’t enough. Or go to Autozone and ask them to clear the codes.
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MUSASHI66
> GoodIdeaAtTheTime
11/24/2018 at 20:07 |
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I’ll have the odb2 Bluetooth device on Monday and I’ll deal with it then. Thanks!