Help me out, Ford Oppos

"ImmoralMinority" (araimondo) 07/02/2017 at 16:40 • Filed to: None

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We have confirmed that the engine in the 70 T-Bird is the factory 429 Thunderjet. One of the things that is exciting about this project is that the car is almost unmodified stock - everything except the Edelbrock triangle of death is pretty much stock - down to the am radio. This car has potential.

This may sound like a stupid question, but am I correct that any air cleaner assembly that fits a 429 will fit this car? I just want to buy a simple aftermarket product to save money.

The other amazing thing is how readily available parts are. It is hard to find trim and interior parts for the Sunchaser, but my early explorations show T Bird parts are plentiful.

Do you know this web site  !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! ?

If they are to be believed, they have the rear quarter panel that is rusted through for only $175!! I need to follow uo, because this will mean our body repairs will be much cheaper than anticipated. If any of you have restored an old T Bird, I would be interested in your experiences. My son and I want to do as much as we can on our own, and see what we can learn.

It may be time to look at a compressor and air powered tools. Should I take a trip to Harbor Freight? I definitely need tools.

The goal of this project is a reasonable driver that looks good by graduation in 2019. Then he can take a car he loves into adulthood and can modify or whatever as he sees fit. I paid for it, and I told him he can buy it from me with sweat equity and busted knuckles.

Your boy, BJR > ImmoralMinority 07/02/2017 at 16:53

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My best advice is to buy a less ugly car.

Your boy, BJR > ImmoralMinority 07/02/2017 at 16:55

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Also you’re a fancy pants lawyer. Don’t buy harbor freight tools, spend the money and get snap on.

Captain of the Enterprise > Your boy, BJR 07/02/2017 at 16:55

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Really? That was necessary?

Captain of the Enterprise > ImmoralMinority 07/02/2017 at 16:56

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I’m sorry I don’t know but I’m exited to see this project progress. I wanted to do this growing up but my family isn’t mechanically inclined like I am. I’m glad to see that you and your son can have something like this to work on, bond over and make memories with.

Your boy, BJR > Captain of the Enterprise 07/02/2017 at 17:10

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Shit fam it’s cool, the councilor knows I loves him

DrJohannVegas > ImmoralMinority 07/02/2017 at 17:26

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The compressors are crummy, but in general, I’ve had decent luck w the HF air tools. Keep em oiled and understand they aren’t really pro grade and you can ride the cost/quality tradeoff to success.

edit: I mean, a new HF compressor will be better than an abused used alternative, but it will degrade over time, so if you can find something decent and used in the capacity you need on the compressor/tank side, go that way.

Alfalfa > ImmoralMinority 07/02/2017 at 17:41

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The answer to your air cleaner question is a solid “probably”. If it doesn’t quite fit, it shouldn’t be too difficult to find a workaround. Ford used the same blocks in many variations, many over the span of decades, but liked to change little bits here and there that can make things a little annoying.

Highlander-Datsuns are Forever > ImmoralMinority 07/02/2017 at 18:08

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This is OEM, anything will fit on ther it just has to be low enough to clear the hood. I would probably look for a large diameter exposed air filter kit with a chrome top.

Birddog > ImmoralMinority 07/02/2017 at 18:08

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If you’re thinking of an open element assembly you’ll need something with a drop base for hood clearance. Ford was pretty good at sharing parts so a stock style assembly may be the same as other 429/460 cars from the early 70s.

This one on Ebay is identical to a 68 TBird and 70 Conti. 2bbl and 4bbl used the same base. (The 2100 2bbl had a 4bbl sized top)

Spridget > ImmoralMinority 07/02/2017 at 18:38

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Have you confirmed it’s a 429 from the stamping numbers?

My X-type is too a real Jaguar > ImmoralMinority 07/02/2017 at 18:54

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For a compressor I recommend hitting up pawn shops, I got a great older craftsmen 10 gallon for $40 it has lasted me 5 years so far.

Sovande > ImmoralMinority 07/02/2017 at 19:24

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Check out the forums before buying body panels as sometimes fitment can be poor. A lot of aftermarket panels are manufactured overseas and quality control is not always the best. It may, in the long run, be cheaper and easier to find a used panel.

Check and see what carb is on the car and find and air cleaner to fit the carb, as it may no longer be stock. The other thing to consider is the height of the air cleaner housing, too tall and it may hit the hood. The air cleaner on my El Camino is a low profile housing so it will fit on the 350 and not hit the hood. On the flip side, you may need a spacer to clear connections on the carb, throttle linkage, choke mechanism, etc.

My advice on an air compressor is to spend as much as you can on the biggest one you have room for. The Harbor Freight compressors will make you crazy quickly as they make more racket than any compressor I have ever heard. Trust me, I have one. I paid $40 for it (21 gallons) and while using an impact wrench is doable, anything that requires any real Cfms is a nightmare. Supposedly the HF earthquake impact wrench is nice, however.

Tekton makes some very nice and very affordable box wrenches. For like $30 you can get a complete set that will cover everything on your car. Their sockets are also quite nice. Maybe not snap on nice, but you won’t need pro quality tools. I use Gearwrench ratchets in 3/8" and 1/4" (some people love them, some people don’t) but for the money, they have served me quite well. I am not gentle with tools and they are 120 tooth which makes using them in areas where swing space is limited pretty nice. An air ratchet is nice, but I don’t use mine much. Another thing to consider is a full screwdriver set (I have a Tekton set that was $12) and a set of pry bars.

The big ass low profile Pittsburgh 3 ton jack at HF has worked well for me, both on lowered Volvos and my El Camino. Jack stands and ramps are also pretty handy. And Led flashlights. If you are anything like me, get about a dozen. I can never see to find mine.

If this is your first real foray into working on cars, like really working on them, I doubt you could have chosen a better one. Every system will be as simple as can be and fixing stuff will inspire a ton of confidence.

Edit: when you look at compressors, look at the cfms of the tools you want to run first. If the impact wrench says 4.5 cfm at 90psi, look for a compressor that puts out at least 6.5 cfm at 90psi. The manufacturer is never honest about output and there is pressure loss in the hose as it gets to the tool.

E92M3 > ImmoralMinority 07/02/2017 at 20:36

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Look for an original air cleaner on eBay. The only problem you might run into is hood clearance, so take a look and make sure you don’t need a lower profile one.

You could also get a vintage Cadillac air cleaner like this one, and paint it green.

Frenchlicker > ImmoralMinority 07/02/2017 at 22:29

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From experience don’t go with the cheapest. Also, body panels and stamped parts in general are one thing that is best bought “Made in the USA.”

When it comes to buying a compressor do as much research as possible. I have found out that Harbor Freight doesn’t have the best price for larger compressors. I don’t know how much you plan on using the air tools however if you plan on using them often buy the best you can afford. If you plan on shooting any paint buy a good gun, plain and simple.

Frenchlicker > Your boy, BJR 07/02/2017 at 22:33

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I’m a fan of craftsman myself. I used to work at Jasper engines and realized that their impact sockets as well as their regular ones lasted longer. Yes they may have free replacement but it’s not worth the hassle.

Rustholes-Are-Weight-Reduction > ImmoralMinority 07/03/2017 at 03:41

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Please stop posting Tbird stuff.

I started looking for one

https://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/details.html?id=219738163

shop-teacher > ImmoralMinority 07/03/2017 at 10:33

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Some food for thought on one of my favorite things to do, buy tools:

In general, you’re often better off buying used quality tools, rather than new Harbor Freight stuff. Some pawn shops are a good source of used tools, but I’ve had better luck on Craigslist. I’m not necessarily anti-Harbor Freight, as some of their stuff is totally fine or even good, but some of it is also one-time use garbage. It’s hard for a beginner to tell the difference.

I wouldn’t buy anything battery powered there, for example. Their tool boxes are actually pretty good, my current box and my previous box were both from there, although the locks on them are utter garbage (I don’t lock my boxes anyway, so it doesn’t matter to me). I’ve heard their higher end air tools are actually pretty good, but I haven’t tried them myself because I bought used Snap-On and Mac impact guns for about the same price. Save your receipts, because Harbor Freight is will take back anything if you bought it within the last 90 days. Oh, and when you’re at Harbor Freight, do a quick search on your smart phone for “Harbor Freight Coupon” and you’ll get 20% off your most expensive item (except for tool boxes and jacks, unfortunately).

When shopping for an air compressor, all of the literature will talk about how much PSI (pounds per square inch) of pressure they can produce. This is a meaningless metric, as they can all produce 140 PSI including the $10 portable one I bought 20 years ago. The metric you want to shop by is how many CFM the compressor can produce. CFM is cubic feet per minute, it’s the volume of air that the compressor can deliver. Specifically you’ll want to look at what CFM the compressor is rated for at 90 PSI for us with air tools. More is better here.

How many CFMs you need is going to depend on the kind of tools you want to use. Any tool you buy will have a listing for how much air it consumes. Impact guns need a lot of air, but can be operated with a medium sized compressor with a good CFM rating. I’ve got an old (mid-80's) Campbell-Hausfeld belt driven two-stage compressor with a 10 gallon tank, that makes somewhere around 5 CFM at 90 PSI. It runs my impact guns just fine for light light wrenching. Something with a bigger tank would be nice, because the compressor wouldn’t have to cycle as much, but it works and doesn’t take up as much space. Now if you guys want to try your hand at painting, or even shooting primer through an actual spray gun, then you’ll need something much bigger. Spray guns, air sanders and such all use a LOT of air. If you want to gun those kind of tools you’ll need to step up to a big stationary compressor with like a 60 gallon tank.

Here’s the thing though, I’m not sure air tools are the best way to go for you. I’m actually thinking of getting rid of all mine. My trusty air-compressor is actually on the fritz, and I’m having a hard time getting it working again. I’m strongly considering selling all my air stuff, and buying a nice electric impact gun or even a battery powered one . You’ll see from my links that I’m not brand loyal. Buy from a good brand (Milwaukee, DeWalt, Makita, and Bosch are some of the best) and they’ll be a good tool. Chose the one that feels best in your hand, as ergonomics make a big difference in how you feel when you’re done working and how long you can keep working. A good set of electric tools and a small to medium compressor for pumping up tires when needed would be a pretty hot setup. That may just be what I have in my garage by the end of the summer.

crowmolly > ImmoralMinority 07/03/2017 at 22:14

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Just thought of something else I had to mention. Not sure if you are aware:

The 1970 429 Ford will undoubtedly have a flat tappet camshaft. You should not use *most* off the shelf oils with it. If you dump regular ‘ol Castrol GTX in the crankcase you can waste the cam/valvetrain in short order. I have had this happen to me (back before it was known that ZDDP was no longer in off the shelf oil). It is neither fun nor cheap.

Modern motor oils no longer have the ZDDP additive for anti-wear in older engines. You need to buy oil that’s rated for flat tappet engines or use an additive to be safe.

One commonly available brand is Valvoline VR1 . I run 10w30 VR1- even though it’s rated as “off road oil” Valvoline has gone on the record as saying it’s for older musclecars. The offroad thing is because of the ZDDP and emissions laws.

Sorry if I am coming off strong or rude but I just want to make sure you or your son don’t inadvertently force an engine rebuild.