![]() 03/01/2017 at 19:29 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
Those are 7/16-20 thread size, but I want to use 1/2-20 and they need to be 3/8" longer.
![]() 03/01/2017 at 19:55 |
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I’ve changed studs, but never stud sizes . That said, I’d imagine that you could run whatever you want as long at the knurled portion fits correctly.
Why do I see two different knurl sizes in the first pic? Is that showing front vs. rear studs?
![]() 03/01/2017 at 20:01 |
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Sí.
![]() 03/01/2017 at 20:09 |
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Right eyeball is -2.75 left is -3.50
![]() 03/01/2017 at 20:25 |
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It looks like the stud lengths are 1-5/16" (large knurl... rear stud?) & 1-3/8" (small knurl), so another 3/8" would be 1-11/16" & 1-3/4", respectively. But you gotta get the right knurls. Here’s a good diagram of the stud measurements you’ll need to take.
Your threads can’t be bigger than the knurls, so it looks like you’ll have to enlarge some holes. It’s important to drill the exact size needed so that the knurls will bite.
![]() 03/01/2017 at 21:40 |
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I’d use 1-3/4" long for both. Have you got a reasonably accurate caliper? You’ll want to measure the non-knurled portion of the shoulder to get a size for use with the Dorman parts list or something like.
![]() 03/02/2017 at 13:08 |
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Good morning Rover. I am going to buy a reasonably accurate caliper this morning.
There’s a man I correspond with who lives in Tennessee who I met on a blog specific to old Chevy straight-sixes. The older such trucks are called “stove bolts.” Anyhow, this fellow told me that the non-knurled measurement is called the “gullet size.” FYI...
I’ll keep you posted. I may need to enlarge the holes in the axle shaft flanges to accommodate the 1/2" studs.