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"Shoop" (shoopdawoop993) 11/02/2017 at 17:30 • Filed to: None

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Power steering cooler. It’s giving me serious Car Mechanic Simulator flashbacks. Any JB Weld tips? I also have jb weld steelstik. I think I’m gonna clean this with a dremel and wire wheel, put on the steel stik then put on a small hose clamp. Thoughts?

CaptDale - is secretly British > Shoop 11/02/2017 at 17:37

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Ditch P/S all together

Takuro Spirit > Shoop 11/02/2017 at 17:39

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#LoopLines

Shoop > CaptDale - is secretly British 11/02/2017 at 17:39

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In an 8000lb truck? Sweet Jesus.

CaptDale - is secretly British > Shoop 11/02/2017 at 17:41

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Yes. The only issue will be parking, but then you never need to worry about arm day at the gym. leg day everyday!

crowmolly > Shoop 11/02/2017 at 17:45

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Bypass the cooler until you can replace it.

Urambo Tauro > Shoop 11/02/2017 at 17:49

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I tried to epoxy a PS line once, just a short section of steel tubing that was too tight to get a flaring tool at. But that hydraulic pressure just laughed the J-B Weld right off, no matter how good I prepped the surface.

I think that was a pressure line, though. Coolers should be on the return side, so patching this one might be worth a shot. Just don’t get your hopes up.

ateamfan42 > crowmolly 11/03/2017 at 09:22

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Alternate take: Bypass the cooler permanently. Some OEM coolers don’t do a whole lot anyway.

When the P/S cooler on my MS6 rusted out, I was astonished Mazda wanted over $400 for a replacement. It was a terrible cheap little cooler stuck in a location that got poor airflow anyway. When I realized the regular Mazda 6 had no cooler at all, I decided my Mazdaspeed 6 didn’t need one either. A length of power steering hose and a couple of clamps and I was back in business.

crowmolly > ateamfan42 11/03/2017 at 09:45

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Gen II LT1 oil cooler was like that from what I remember. Didn’t do much except clog.

I figure it’s up to him. I’d either upgrade it or delete it entirely but that’s just me.