Help me Oppo, you're my only hope.  

"TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts." (thebloody) 01/13/2017 at 19:25 • Filed to: Oppo, Help

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Timeserts... Tell me Oppo, have any of you used them or know someone who has? Do they work? If so how well?

http://www.timesert.com

Rust and Dust - Oppositelock Forever > TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. 01/13/2017 at 19:33

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Not that brand particularly, but I’ve used helicoils before. Not ideal, but a fairly cheap/quick solution to a shitty situation. Welding/repair not an option?

Urambo Tauro > TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. 01/13/2017 at 19:35

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I don’t have any personal experience with them, but I see guys on the Mustang forums swear by them. They say don’t waste your time with HeliCoils.

Die-Trying > TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. 01/13/2017 at 19:51

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used them on a cadillac northstar once........ the kit came with an alignment tool, the serts and a good drill bit and a tap, and a guide jig for drilling the holes. worked great. they were steel thread inserts, that threaded into the aluminum block, and brought the thread size back to stock. was still holding fine up until the car got wrecked 5 years after the fix........ WAY more effective than helicoils......

TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. > Rust and Dust - Oppositelock Forever 01/13/2017 at 19:57

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Aluminium block so helicoils will compromise the block integrity.

crowmolly > TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. 01/13/2017 at 20:00

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Those are considered better than HeliCoils. They work well.

To be honest, I’ve never had issues with HeliCoils either. In aluminum too- a lot of guys chowder threads in aluminum intakes.

If you do them correctly you should be fine.

crowmolly > TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. 01/13/2017 at 20:05

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Just curious- according to who?

TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. > crowmolly 01/13/2017 at 20:17

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Concenses from the Land Rover enthusiast community, Land Rover mechanics ect... These blocks have been machined to the limits of their design.

RallyWrench > TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. 01/13/2017 at 20:23

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I have helicoiled hundreds of Mercedes-Benz V8 head bolt holes (something like 32 per block, takes 8 hours to do properly) with no issues whatsoever. That was a factory procedure because simply retorquing on the cut threads would rip them out. Problems with Helicoiling must be a Rover peculiarity.

Time-Serts are fine, they’re commonly used on Porsche engine cases for the studs.

TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. > RallyWrench 01/13/2017 at 20:42

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Probablem with the Rover V8 is it started out as 3.5 and they ended on a 4.6 when they shouldn’t have gone past 4.0.

AMGtech - now with more recalls! > TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. 01/13/2017 at 20:44

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What did you do!?

My most trusted machine shop swears by them.

crowmolly > RallyWrench 01/13/2017 at 21:06

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I don’t doubt the consensus from the Rover community but it sure seems odd.

benjrblant > TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. 01/13/2017 at 21:15

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I found this thrilling video explaining them. Try to keep it together while watching, ok?

That’s about all I know...

RallyWrench > crowmolly 01/13/2017 at 21:16

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My thought too, I’ve never had a problem with a well done Helicoil. I’m sure it’s an issue with the Rovers, somehow, but you know... let us not go to Camelot. It is a silly place.

TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. > AMGtech - now with more recalls! 01/13/2017 at 21:57

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http://oppositelock.kinja.com/remember-kids-if-you-have-a-click-style-torque-wrench-1790799516#_ga=1.9875057.530878727.1452965402

Trusted that a torque wrench I borrowed was calibrated correctly and got burned. I’m thinking the under torqued studs fucked the thread up.

AMGtech - now with more recalls! > TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. 01/13/2017 at 22:10

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Oh right. I did read that. Even commented there. Totally forgot. Crazy week here. *facepalm

Well, good luck, I hope it works out flawlessly.

TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. > AMGtech - now with more recalls! 01/13/2017 at 22:22

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Thanks man, the thought of having to part out Dug is keeping me up at night... It’s like Ol’ Yeller...

AMGtech - now with more recalls! > TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. 01/13/2017 at 23:11

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Oh I know what you mean. I couldn’t bear it. Worst case, save up some money and get a replacement engine if that’s what it comes to. Hopefully it won’t. Fingers crossed and all that

ITA97, now with more Jag @ opposite-lock.com > TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. 01/14/2017 at 13:19

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I’ve used them and seen them used to repair stripped threads on Aluminum oil pans with great success. The key is making sure the drill bit is dead-nuts perfectly straight and perpendicular.

Back in the 80's and 90's many cars with aluminum oil pans were manufactured with a threaded steel insert for the drain plug. These days, the Japanese at least don’t seem to do that anymore, which makes drain plugs real vulnerable to the idiot in the pit at Jiffy Lube.

Rufant > TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. 01/17/2017 at 01:36

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Sorry Bloody, late to the party.

Firstly, has the block been overheated? If so it needs a hardness test. If it’s too soft it won’t matter what you do, it won’t last.

My mate does thread repairs for a living. He has Helecoiled every head stud in a 4.6 no probs. He said the key is to using a 3D helecoil (length 3 x the diameter) as opposed to a standard 1.5D. You might have to cut the 3D down, but it will be much stronger.

TBH if you can find a good thread repair specialist, I would leave that part of the job to them.

Also consider doing them all too. Mostly if one has pulled, another will pull.

Anyway, check hardness first. You can’t tap into butter!

TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts. > Rufant 01/17/2017 at 08:03

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Truck hasn’t overheated, I’ve made sure of that. I have a Digital temp readout, converted to the 180°f soft spring thermostat and monitored the temp like a hawk so the block itself is good. It just has buggered headbolt thread.

I’ve also not found any machining marks on it so it isn’t one of the poorly cast blocks Land Rover bean counters decided to use to save money.