"StudyStudyStudy" (jesterjin)
11/10/2016 at 18:09 • Filed to: None
0
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"StudyStudyStudy" (jesterjin)
11/10/2016 at 18:09 • Filed to: None | 0
| 7 |
Hey guys,
I know quite a few of you guys run 2jz’s so I figured I would ask.
I recently acquired a 2jz-ge from an SC300 to put into my datsun 240z.
My plan with most engines is to buy a seal kit and replace them as I go.
With my engine torn down pretty far I figured I would tackle the front main seal and the rear main seal. I come to the ever so widely discussed topic of the front main seal.
My engine does show some oil residue up front along with a dirty oil pan which makes me think that replacing the front main seal along with the cam seals would be a good idea.
What I am running into is everyone saying to go genuine toyota seals or not to even bother doing it. Is it really the case? Should I just toss my seals in my generic kit and order new ones from toyota? For paper or stamped gaskets I’m pretty comfortable using what is at hand, but the main seals I would rather not have to revisit.
Also finding that some people say if the seal is leaking it would be worth it to get a new oil pump. Additionally people have said to modify the oil pump for better flow by porting and drilling out some holes.
What are your thoughts?
Edit: For anyone who finds this topic just thought I would share my results.
I went to the machine shop with my generic seal kit for valve stems, the brand of most of the seals were evergreen and the machine shop recognized them and was happy to use them on the head. So not as bad as I thought.
The seal I had was a Lok 46631. The height of the seal (depth that it goes into the oil pump) was 6.2mm
Turns out my motor had the updated seal in NOK BH4513E. This one has extended “teeth” on the bottom, some people said it was to increase grip on the walls, but they are located inboard, so my theory is that they are there to help space the seal away from the oil drain hole. 6.6mm height and 7mm at the teeth
The factory toyota oil seal NOK BH4513F is 6.4mm
The oil drain hole starts at 5.2mm and goes all the way down to 10.2mm. So it will be partially covered regardless of the oil seal. The question is if it is better to block more of it to have more surface area in contact with the oil pump or if it is better to keep the oil drain hole clear and free.
One thing I did was I used the toyota FIPG on the outside of the seal making sure none got on the bottom or behind the seal. Then I coated the inside of the seal with generic high temperature grease.
HammerheadFistpunch
> StudyStudyStudy
11/10/2016 at 18:15 |
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my 2 cents are that 90's Toyota was on their “A” game...use the genuine seals for best results. Its not like they are that much money compared to doing it again.
bob and john
> StudyStudyStudy
11/10/2016 at 18:27 |
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for engine seals I always go OEM. fork seals and others I do high end aftermarket. (all balls or better)
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StudyStudyStudy
> HammerheadFistpunch
11/10/2016 at 18:31 |
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The problem is that I am reading the genuine seals are not immune to the problem of leaking, but that is a good point. $15 now is cheaper then pulling the whole front off again.
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StudyStudyStudy
> bob and john
11/10/2016 at 18:34 |
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Ugh, I know you are right here. Just fighting my desire to move on. I definitely should just go OEM.
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HammerheadFistpunch
> StudyStudyStudy
11/10/2016 at 18:36 |
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The factory seals are as good as you are going to get, you just have to be very careful and particular about install . Don’t just whack them in there, clean the mating surface, check for scaring , check of other damage (out of round) and tap in slow.
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StudyStudyStudy
> HammerheadFistpunch
11/10/2016 at 19:21 |
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Thanks for the advice, just placed the order for the seals.
dtg11 - is probably on an adventure with Clifford
> StudyStudyStudy
11/10/2016 at 21:07 |
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That little bit more money will be worth the cost if it means you don’t have to replace them again. So I’d go OEM.