Update on the tie rod situation

"Noah - Now with more boost." (antriebverliebt) 10/12/2016 at 09:42 • Filed to: None

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The castle nut won’t come off. After a few rounds of PB blaster, I bought a blow torch from Home Depot at like 9:30 last night - which is exactly what I want to do on a work evening - and proceeded to alternate between heating and spraying PB Blaster. More of the same tonight... maybe a little time will help. I’m hoping the PB will work it’s way in over the course of the day. If this doesn’t come out within the first couple hours of work this evening, I’m just going to cut the nut off...

Twingo Tamer - About to descend into project car hell. > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/12/2016 at 09:47

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I got a set of these years ago. Theyre a god send. That chisel point digs into the bolt and deforms it, releasing the tension on it. Then you can usually get it off with a spanner. Or if the bolt is soft enough itll break it right off. I love them.

Noah - Now with more boost. > Twingo Tamer - About to descend into project car hell. 10/12/2016 at 09:49

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ooooh wow ok. I’ve seen those before but haven’t used them, maybe another trip to home depot is in order. thx!

Twingo Tamer - About to descend into project car hell. > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/12/2016 at 09:50

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They dont work 100% of the time but a nut like the one above should be weak enough that these will crack it no problem. It obviously damages the nut beyond repair but i assume thats not an issue.

jimz > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/12/2016 at 09:56

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you might not find one at Homer de Poe. Might have to hit up an auto parts store like O’Reilly.

DipodomysDeserti > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/12/2016 at 10:14

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Do you have an air compressor? An impact driver will do the trick. My wrenching endeavors got infinitely easier once I got a compressor and an impact driver.

notsomethingstructural > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/12/2016 at 10:14

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Yeah, as the other guy said I would nut bust it if it’s that bad. In the meantime, get the propane on there for a couple mins. Guys I trust who do a lot of work on cars say it needs to be between smoking and glowing at minimum. You have a breaker bar I assume? And yes PB works best over the course of a few days. Some people swear candle wax works better but it’s never done much for me.

Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/12/2016 at 10:25

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PB Blaster is garbage. I have had Liquid Wrench penetrant work wonders on rusty parts while PB did just about nothing. I thought I was going to have to cut off my sway bar end links while replacing them but Liquid Wrench ended up loosening them up nicely.

Noah - Now with more boost. > jimz 10/12/2016 at 10:58

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huh ok good tip, I’ll check autozone or something first maybe

Noah - Now with more boost. > Twingo Tamer - About to descend into project car hell. 10/12/2016 at 10:59

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Yeah at this point I might even hack saw the nut off, it’s such a small piece of metal

Noah - Now with more boost. > notsomethingstructural 10/12/2016 at 11:01

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Yeah man I got it smoking real good, but I’ll hold it there for longer tonight.

Noah - Now with more boost. > Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) 10/12/2016 at 11:03

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yeah my friend uses this amazing stuff, “kroil” which I’ll get my hands on this sat. if I have to.

Noah - Now with more boost. > DipodomysDeserti 10/12/2016 at 11:03

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ugh if only. we used a rattle gun when we did my friend’s lift kit and it was amazing.

Urambo Tauro > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/12/2016 at 11:06

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It feels silly to ask, but since you didn’t mention it...

Did you remove the cotter pin?

Noah - Now with more boost. > Urambo Tauro 10/12/2016 at 11:07

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hahahaha yes I did! in like 30 seconds too, all in once piece. the only real progress I’ve made

Boosted2k - I Make Videos and Put Them on YouTube > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/12/2016 at 11:14

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Just get a big breaker bar and if it doesn’t start moving it will do exactly what you need...snap the bolt.

Urambo Tauro > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/12/2016 at 11:19

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LOL I had to ask. :)

I saw your other reply about not having air tools. The rattle effect would be nice, but a breaker bar should give you all the torque you need. That nut WILL move, even if it starts spinning the tie rod stem with it.

facw > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/12/2016 at 11:22

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I’ve read that a 50/50 mix of ATF fluid and acetone actually works better than anything out there. I.E.:

Rykilla303 > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/12/2016 at 11:37

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Cut it off. My last tie rod job I worked on it for maybe 2 min. Then i just cut the nut with an abrasive cut off wheel. Took 30 seconds and only damaged the rod we were replacing. Well worth the time savings. (harbor fright 4" electric grinder with cut off disc)

Noah - Now with more boost. > Rykilla303 10/12/2016 at 11:39

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Yeah I have a feeling that’ll happen tonight

DipodomysDeserti > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/12/2016 at 11:59

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Yeah, I just swapped out shocks and springs on my Jeep and it took me two hours doing it by myself. The longest task was loosening the top nut on the front shocks because I could only fit a wrench in there.

Die-Trying > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/12/2016 at 12:16

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get it so its turning a pink, or orangeish, then while its still glowing hot, crank on it...........

Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/12/2016 at 13:12

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Yup, I bought some kroil at the same time as the liquid wrench. I didnt end up needing the kroil so it will remain as my “last resort” to break out on anything tougher.

Noah - Now with more boost. > DipodomysDeserti 10/12/2016 at 13:13

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oh man this was a multi day effort for us, the fronts were done in an afternoon but the rear leaves didn’t want to come out

Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) > facw 10/12/2016 at 13:14

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Yup, this chart was why I bought the liquid wrench and kroil. The home brew stuff certainly sounds like the way to go but I have seen mixed reviews around on it in real life.

sonicgabe > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/12/2016 at 13:33

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Handy tip, maybe for this job, and certainly for others...

If the space you are working in is small and you fit a small wrench or socket up there, with no room for a breaker bar or air gun, fit the wrench or socket and ratchet up in there. Then get something like a dog leash to loop on the end of the ratchet/wrench. Have one person keep their hand on that, keeping the leash in place while applying as much torque to it as possible. Have a second person pull the other end of the leash. Obviously, run the leash in the proper direction and even use parts of the vehicle like the frame or control arm to help direct the leash for proper torque. Then pull. Really pull. Lean in to it. Keep clear of the ratchet/wrench as best you can while still holding the leash in place as the wrench or ratchet will probably pop off when it breaks loose.

Did this recently while replacing the starter on The Ranger. The upper bolt would not come out and there was only enough room to get a small ratchet up in there. I worked it for two hours, breaking one socket and one ratchet in the process. After walking to the store for replacement tools, I got out the dog leash and Lady SonicGabe. It broke loose in about 10 seconds.

Noah - Now with more boost. > sonicgabe 10/12/2016 at 13:52

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that’s a new one! I think the hack saw will be me my best friend tonight though

sonicgabe > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/12/2016 at 15:55

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Physics.

They work most of the time.

brianbrannon > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/12/2016 at 20:06

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Righty tighty, lefty loosey

gmporschenut also a fan of hondas > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/12/2016 at 20:50

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step 1:

Die-Trying > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/12/2016 at 21:04

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or harbor freight..........