"SlickMcRick" (slickmcrick)
09/09/2015 at 01:42 • Filed to: None
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"SlickMcRick" (slickmcrick)
09/09/2015 at 01:42 • Filed to: None | 1
| 9 |
It’s a 1990 with 112k on it for $1900. Should I take a look at it? I’m possibly getting a car this weekend if all goes accordingly. I would post it up on here but each time I post a listing I believe an Oppo lurker sneaks right underneath me and snatches it up first.
Also would post pictures but Kinja is being a Ninja.
this is not matt farah's foxbodymiata
> SlickMcRick
09/09/2015 at 01:46 |
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Do it. Offer twelve, spend the value of a 2 day skiing trip on something that will bring you joy for weeks, months, years if you decide to keep it.
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SlickMcRick
> this is not matt farah's foxbodymiata
09/09/2015 at 01:49 |
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That’s what I’m thinking. Too good of a deal to pass up. And if it’s not for me I can easily flip it come next Spring for double. It’s rare you come across such low-mileage examples. It also has a fresh top and according to the ad:
Also included: All the parts needed to replace the timing belt, ACC belt, and water pump (not needed, but considered to be a recommended maintenance in about another 50K miles) ; Car Cover; OEM visors.
daender
> SlickMcRick
09/09/2015 at 01:50 |
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Things to take note of with super-early NA Miata:
Rust along the bottom and on the rear arches
Infamous crank wobble on the 1.6L engines (granted, I’ve also seen NBs and 1.8L NAs develop it), remove the air filter box from the intake, rotate the intake up, and observe the crankshaft balancer while it’s running. If it’s vibrating, then you’re looking at a few hundred dollars and some hours fixing it.
Probably doesn’t have a LSD or even a VLSD, that’s a 500$ upgrade
NAs have plastic softtop windows that’re known to yellow and haze; it’s preferred to upgrade them to glass units if the top needs to be replaced
No powah but they sound amazing because Mazda put lots of R&D into getting a perfect roadster exhaust note on the NA that’s absent on the NB cars
Conclusion: NP
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this is not matt farah's foxbodymiata
> SlickMcRick
09/09/2015 at 01:55 |
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Dude, with a fresh top and parts... if it looks ok, drives straight and doesn’t make too many funny noises, it’s a steal for that money.
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SlickMcRick
> daender
09/09/2015 at 02:03 |
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I fear that if I get this car I shall dump every other paycheck into modifying it into my own. Tasteful ones though. Roll bar, LSD and a few other things. The seller did mention the rust along the rear arches and included an image. The most HP I’ve had in a car I’ve owned was 140 and I got plenty of tickets. I think it’ll hold me over for a bit. If I feel underwhelmed I’ll look into the Accord V6 swap that people are now doing.
Dunnik
> daender
09/09/2015 at 02:34 |
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Yea, potentially terminal rust is a killer for the oldest of the Miatas (1990 was the 2nd year of production).
Potential NP tho, worth checking out at least.
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daender
> Dunnik
09/09/2015 at 02:39 |
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My friend and I had to do the honors of picking up and parting out someone else’s rare ‘95 Laguna Blue’n’Tan Miata because the rust had gone too far (along with a very minor rear-quarter t-bone) to keep it road worthy. Rust is a sad fate for many NAs and some salty NBs.
LongbowMkII
> SlickMcRick
09/09/2015 at 07:49 |
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do it.
miadaman? yes please
> SlickMcRick
09/09/2015 at 08:49 |
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Also take note of clutch cylinders, many went in NA and had to be replaced (~200 for master and slave parts, less in labor). Check timing belt/water pump as usual, 1.6 isn’t an interference engine but will cost you much to replace them (~600-800 at indy shop).
Be aware if you swap in torsen LSD, you’ll be bumped up to higher classes in SCCA autoX - if you care about that sort of thing. And the VLSD only transfers 15% of power, it will marginally improve drive dynamic and tend to stop working after a while and becomes an open diff.
For drivability best free mod is probably still foamectomy as stock seats are way over bolstered and sits too high.