The Junkyard RX7 - Part 2 - NPoCP

"MM54" (mm54mk2) 08/27/2015 at 18:35 • Filed to: JunkyardRX7

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So you may remember my post from a few days ago about stumbing along a wrecked FB (1982) RX-7 in a junkyard, which caught my interest. As a wise man (or my friend when he was drunk) once told me:

Every bad idea is just a good idea, in disguise.

Taking his advice, I had my dad get some pictures of this car for my further scrutiny as well as to share with you. I had him do it since he drives past the junk yard every day, and I live almost two hours from it.

The first thing we discovered is that it was also hit (high) in the rear. I’ve pulled dents and think this one would pop right out, at least to within the window for beater-car-bondo, but the cruncho-ed tail lights concern me; I can’t imagine it’s easy to find replacements. If you use wood screws to mount trailer lights to the back of a car, does it legally count?

Also, the antenna is bent, which is sad. No passenger’s mirror because racecar.

The interior looks pretty good - the headliner is totally down (of course) but that’s just weight reduction (bro), right? Also the driver’s door panel is in the trunk, which is weird. The plant in the picture IS NOT COMING IN through nor is it growing in the car - it was simply closed in the door. I really like the steering wheel.

It’s got 50k miles on it, which is low but doesn’t really matter since this car last passed a PA inspection around the time I was conceived. I don’t know if it has been started, run, or even turned over in the past 23 years.

The front passenger’s side look like it took a post at a 45 degree angle, but the damage doesn’t make it to the wheel/suspension. The headlight is way bent in, and the header panel, fender, and bumper don’t look happy at all. The header panel will bend back enough, but that fender is gone. If nothing else, I’ll bolt the headlight in the upright position. The other side can wink. The corner of the core support is bent down.

The engine bay seems complete, with a large mouse nest right over the brake and clutch master cylinders. I’m sure it’s done wonders for the condition of the parts underneath it. On my futher investigation I’ll be closely looking at the wiring in the dash to make sure the mice didn’t make their way inside.

I also really, really like that air cleaner. Even if I don’t end up with the car, I will have its lid.

The driver’s side fender is a little damaged too, but nothing that worries me. I’m not sure how long it’s been since the wheels turned, but I’m sure the suspension and steering rack are pleased to have been at full lock for years on end.

It has steel wheels, and I think there may actually be a little air in the front, which is absurd. They’re sunken into the ground though so I’m not sure.

The only visible body rust (other than where it was hit) is behind the passenger’s side rear wheel, because of course it’s rusting there, this is the northeast.

The glass and interior are in good enough shape that I could probably make my money back parting this car out, although it’s been in a junkyard for years and there hasn’t seemed to have been any demand for its parts. Also the roof. Look how nice it is.

I have more pictures (including some really gory ones of where it was hit in the front - my dad took these and emphasized all the damage so I know what I’m getting in to) but this gives an overview. Requests will be honored in the comments (if I have what you’re looking for).

Oddly I don’t have any overview pictures that show the whole car, they’re all closeups.

So here’s where I’m at - I don’t know if the frame is rusted to hell, or under some undercoating just hanging out. I haven’t even tried the gear lever to see if it moves. Pretty sure the exhaust is laying on the ground. On Saturday I’m going to go (likely cash in hand) and take another close look, and try to get an idea what the underside looks like, and spot any other major problems before making a decision.

I know how much he wants, and I can probably negotiate down a little bit but not much. It’s towards the high end of what I think it’s worth, but I won’t say the number as to not skew the answer:

What do you guys think this is worth? As a project to wrench on with friends on some weekends and hopefully get it on the road as a beater. I’m not particularly concerned with it sitting outside...

Keep in mind I’m looking at another $100-$150 to get this thing dropped off on a flatbed in my dad’s field to work on it on the weekends.

Thanks, Oppo!

iSureWilll > MM54 08/27/2015 at 18:41

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$200-$300 tops. To an oppo, maybe $400-$450.

Disclaimer: I have no idea how much wrecked cars are worth.

Trunk Impaired 318 > MM54 08/27/2015 at 18:42

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Too far gone, good for parts here and there but all in all I dont ever see that driving again without a stupid amount of time and money

Sampsonite24-Earth's Least Likeliest Hero > MM54 08/27/2015 at 18:42

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How much does he want for it?

vondon302 > MM54 08/27/2015 at 18:42

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Run away. Look at racingjunk.com can get a nicely sorted one for cheap. Parts car at the right price. But what do I know I’m a mustang guy so?

MM54 > Sampsonite24-Earth's Least Likeliest Hero 08/27/2015 at 18:51

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I want unbiased outside opinions, so I’m not going to say. What do you think it’s worth?

Sampsonite24-Earth's Least Likeliest Hero > MM54 08/27/2015 at 18:56

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Probably 400 if it runs otherwise it’s probably not worth it’s weight in scrap.

jjhats > MM54 08/27/2015 at 18:57

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$500 on a good day

mrbwa1 > MM54 08/27/2015 at 19:01

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It had better be cheap for a sitting 12a. It’s not even a GSL-SE with a 13b. Did you pull the plugs and make sure they aren’t all corroded? My big concern would be apex seals: can you turn it over to make sure they are seized or already blown?

You should be able to find a decent running RX-7 of this vintage for like $2000 (not perfect, but a runner). I don’t see this coming back to life for less than that.

Heck, here is an 87 for $2500 (much better car) http://boise.craigslist.org/cto/5178979698…

FYI, the carbs on most Gen 1 RX7s are a nightmare unless they are already a runner (or replaced with a totally non-admissions setup).

Again, if you really want an RX-7, try and find a Gen 2 (86-91).

MM54 > mrbwa1 08/27/2015 at 19:09

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I’ll take a socket set with me to pull the plugs. When I first found it, I was looking for a fender for my crown vic so I didn’t really go into any detail with it. Later on I realised I may have wanted to. Right now a dealbreaker is if it’s rusting to bits underneath, or if the sparkplugs are rusty and sad... or I can’t bring him down on price a little.

I don’t really need another car right now, it’s just something fun to work on on the weekends (until winter I guess). I’ve been itching for a good project for a few months so this may scratch the itch.

I’m not opposed to sticking a smallblock v8 in it but that’s more money and effort. I’d have to be pretty pleased with the rest of the car before going to that extent, though.

Highlander-Datsuns are Forever > MM54 08/27/2015 at 19:37

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this would be better, still probably needs a rebuilt motor.

https://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/5181465948…

mrbwa1 > MM54 08/27/2015 at 19:44

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If you can, squirt some oil in the plug holes and try and trn the motor over with a ratchet. The oil will help it try and build some compression if it’s not frozen, the apex seals can be a bugger. If nothing, it helps you wheel and deal. There are folks that do good rebuild of rotaries and will freight ship them to you (well someone you know with a loading dock).

My dad and I did a swap I his 88. His previous 85 never needed much work, but that carb was a pain.

As for stuffing in a v8. They always fit... Somewhere... All 400 cubic inches (still a small block though).

MM54 > Highlander-Datsuns are Forever 08/27/2015 at 19:49

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I’d be down for that, but it’s on the opposite side of the country

MM54 > mrbwa1 08/27/2015 at 19:52

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The purveyor of the junkyard said “The drivetrain’s good in that, you know” so I’ll ask how he knows that - just because the last PA inspection was in ‘91 doesn’t mean it hasn’t run, but I doubt it. Amongst other things, I intend to pull the plugs and put some oil in the... err... rotors, and see if it turns (unless he insists that it runs and moves, in which case I’ll encourage him to show me). I’m really on the fence with this.

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > MM54 08/27/2015 at 19:53

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There’s no way a car that’s been sitting in the sun for twenty years has a roof that nice.

MM54 > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 08/27/2015 at 19:56

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I don’t know for sure that it’s been sitting out for that long - just that it hasn’t been on the road in that long. There’s a chance the previous owner kept it inside or under something (like a tarp) before junking it. I don’t know when it was junked (I’ll be finding that out Saturday). Similarly I don’t know that it hasn’t run in that long, it could have run 6 months ago for all I know.

Steve in Manhattan > Sampsonite24-Earth's Least Likeliest Hero 08/27/2015 at 20:00

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I was going to go $300, but $400 is as near as makes no difference. The question is, what does it take to restore it? That said, the interior looks pretty good, and complete.

Flavien Vidal > MM54 08/27/2015 at 20:02

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If the engine at least turns, I’d say 400$... You’re in for a rebuild anyway, the fact that it’s carburated should make it run a bit faster than on the fuel injected version... I’d say do it, but don’t expect making money out of it...

In the states, those can be bought for 3 to 5000$ in decent running condition and I’m pretty damn sure that’s how much it will cost you if you don’t value your time.

My daily driver is a modified Turbo SA22c (japan only) and I can promiss you that you won’t regret it. It’s awesome fun!

mrbwa1 > Highlander-Datsuns are Forever 08/27/2015 at 20:29

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That looks almost exactly like my dad’s 85 did.

mrbwa1 > MM54 08/27/2015 at 20:33

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Shoot, I think my dad had that left fender for a loop g time. Too bad it’s probably gone and he’s on the opposite end of the country from you.

Still, I’m at like $200 here. The interior bits are okay, and if it runs, maybe $500. Basically it’s those interior bits and the drivetrain. The rest is too far gone. Now, find any old Courier and swap in the motor and you could have a DIY Rotary Pickup.

roflcopter > MM54 08/27/2015 at 21:44

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It’s only worth a few hundred, basically look at the engine/drivetrain as possibly toast, a rotary sitting for that long will develop lots of issues.

On that note swapping a 13b into it would be relatively cheap. If you get it I'll buy the 12A and salvage what parts I can out of it for another build I'm working on ;)