Turn That Lemon into a Lion

"Peter Monshizadeh" (practicalenthusiast) 08/05/2015 at 10:05 • Filed to: Bike Maintenance, Budget Bike, Lanesplitter, Found On Craigslist, Maintenance, Home Mechanic, Motorcycle, Two Wheels Good, Moto Advice

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Used bikes are great; their smile per dollar ratio is unmatched. You can always jump on the ‘ol Craigslist and have five bikes lined up within a 30 mile radius that are well under book value and itching to sell. The deal factor is irresistible. You look at your bank account, then back at the listing. It’s hard to believe that all of the stars have aligned. You whip out your phone, make the call, and before you know it, your new-to-you bike is in your driveway. Success!

Well, not so fast. More often than not, motorcycles are seriously neglected, fair-weather toys. Want proof? Next time you see a bike out in the wild, take a look at the chain. You’ll probably see considerable grime build up – or worse – rust. If you were to analyze the oil, you shouldn’t be surprised to find an expiration date of 2 years ago. Tires? Yeah, they are probably the original ones to the bike. Don’t even ask about the brakes.

Of course, there are exceptions to the rule, but more than likely the sweet deal you just scored off of Craigslist is partial to the norm. Don’t be discouraged – your dream bike can be steered towards a fitness plan that will make the previous neglect look like a distant memory.

!!! UNKNOWN HEADER TYPE (MULTI-LINE BREAK?) !!!

Oil is the lifeblood of any internal combustion engine. Engines that reach over 200,000 miles get there because their owners religiously changed the oil and filter.

Oil that has a clearish-gold tint isn’t always indicative of “new”. The previous owner may even insist that it was just changed. Unless there is documentation to prove it, you are doing yourself and the bike a disservice to forego changing it immediately.

It’s cheap, it’s easy, and it’s smart.

BUDGET: $45

Exchange the Coolant

You can skip this section if you have an oil cooled or air cooled engine. For the rest of us, antifreeze is the most overlooked fluid in the bike. Why? Because the coolant reservoir is hardly ever in sight and if the level is correct, it must be fine! In truth, it’s good practice to exchange it every 2 to 3 years.

Antifreeze will chemically break down over time and in turn won’t provide the necessary freeze and corrosion protection or cooling and lubricating properties the engine needs. A thorough flush with deionized (DI) distilled water is a must to remove all remnants of the old coolant. High quality coolant can be sourced at any reputable motorcycle shop. The flushing procedure will ensure that your engine will remain temperate even on the hottest – and coldest – of days.

BUDGET: $35

!!! UNKNOWN HEADER TYPE (MULTI-LINE BREAK?) !!!

Motorcycles, for the most part, are quick machines. It goes without saying that if you go fast, your need to stop increases exponentially. Old, dingy, water-logged brake fluid will not help you in this pursuit.

If your bike has hydraulic brakes, take a look at the front and rear brake fluid reservoirs. Is the fluid almost clear or light colored? Or is it dark like engine oil? If it’s dark, flush it immediately. Does the hand brake lever or foot brake lever feel spongy? Even if the fluid looks new, there still could be air trapped somewhere in the system. Bleed the system until all bubbles have vanished and you are left with a firm feel at the levers. The safest bikes on the road are the ones that can stop.

BUDGET: $15

Getting Sticky

Old tires may appear to have great tread depth, but their chemical structure may have severely degraded to the point in which they are hazardous. For example, think of a pencil eraser. An old eraser will have a hard, glazed surface and smear everything. A new eraser will be flexible, grippy, and will erase with ease. The same goes for tires – old ones will be dried, cracked and won’t grip; new ones will be soft, sticky and have grip for all weather conditions.

When you are relying on only two contact patches, this a feature you really don’t want to skimp on. If the bike looks like it needs tires, don’t risk it. Replace it.

BUDGET: $400 ( For sport bikes, typically less for other motorcycles )

Mr. Clean

This one shouldn’t need too much of an introduction. A filthy, grungy bike can weigh on your psyche every time you look at it. Even more, dirt build up can mask deeper issues with body work and mechanical systems. If left too long, dirt and grime can create a corrosive buildup on critical systems such as brake and suspension components – potentially leading to disaster while riding.

The chain needs to be free of grit on the roller surfaces and needs to be thoroughly lubricated. This ensures a long life for sprockets and proper articulation of the chain links. If your bike is fully-faired, I always recommend stripping all of the body panels off and giving everything a good clean underneath. This will also give you an opportunity to inspect wiring and any other hidden parts of the bike. Stock up on grease-cutting liquids and shop towels to get a thorough clean. My go-to solutions are WD-40, Simple Green, brake parts cleaner and a lot of tooth brushes. A clean bike will not just look great – it will ultimately be a safer machine.

BUDGET: $30

Get Out There

After following these guidelines, your new-to-you bike will be in the best condition it’s been in since new. It will be ready to handle anything you can dish out and it will serve you well for years to come. It’s cliché, but if you look after your machine, it will look after you. Now get out there and let that lion roar.

Have any more tips for benchmarking a new-to-you bike? Let us know in the comments!

Roman Savchuk > Peter Monshizadeh 08/05/2015 at 11:09

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Suspension settings. Some riders adjust suspension for their weight or road conditions, some just believe the stiffer the better. And you need to make sure that previous owner of your bike wasn’t the latter))

Peter Monshizadeh > Roman Savchuk 08/05/2015 at 11:15

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Excellent point - properly set up suspension makes a world of difference.

move-over-peasant-I-have-an-M5-in-the-shop > Peter Monshizadeh 08/05/2015 at 12:56

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For a non-FI bike, I'd always recommend cleaning the carbs on a used bike. Some sellers may claim the carbs were recently cleaned, when all they really did was dump some seafoam in the intake and call it good. Clean carbs make a world of difference on a bike that's been sitting, especially if you're buying in the spring in an area that doesn't have year-round riding weather.

GrannyShifter (don't judge my Hofmeister kink) > Peter Monshizadeh 08/05/2015 at 12:57

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If it’s got a chain, check the tension by the factory specs. Too loose is bad. Too tight is very, very bad. Ask me how I know.

Lumpy44, Proprietor Of Fine Gif > Peter Monshizadeh 08/05/2015 at 12:59

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Thinking of getting a bike soon and all these articles here have been a huge help!

Known As E > Peter Monshizadeh 08/05/2015 at 13:06

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As someone who has a 2010 Street Triple R in burnt orange, That top picture makes me tingle.

I Always Forget My Account Info > Peter Monshizadeh 08/05/2015 at 13:08

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+1 for the Speed Triple photo, and + another 1 for the VFR.

Spaze > GrannyShifter (don't judge my Hofmeister kink) 08/05/2015 at 13:09

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I agree with this. you should check to see that things are in spec. You should also check the pads, sprockets and a few other things, but these may fall under the “buying checklist”

Breukdance > Peter Monshizadeh 08/05/2015 at 13:10

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Possibly check to make sure the valves are in tolerance... especially if you don’t have service records.

Fat Val Kilmer > Peter Monshizadeh 08/05/2015 at 13:18

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Make sure your the electrical is up to par. A burned out brake lamp can end your life.

RustyToolbox > Peter Monshizadeh 08/05/2015 at 13:22

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I would add to this: clean the carbs. If you get a caburated bike, just take them off and at least check to make sure all the jets are clear, springs are working, seals are good, etc... Even if they’re sparkly clean, you’ll be assured the PO took good care of the rest of the bike.

And finally, ride it! Rev the engine up after it’s warm. A well-ridden bike is a healthy bike.

Peter Monshizadeh > Known As E 08/05/2015 at 13:33

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Mmm, Street Triple. All the power, none of the weight. Great choice!

Jeep until it MHz > GrannyShifter (don't judge my Hofmeister kink) 08/05/2015 at 13:33

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How do you know? I am interested in your first hand experience.

Peter Monshizadeh > move-over-peasant-I-have-an-M5-in-the-shop 08/05/2015 at 13:34

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Great point!

Peter Monshizadeh > Fat Val Kilmer 08/05/2015 at 13:36

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Couldn't agree more. Lighting - especially the taillight - is critical.

move-over-peasant-I-have-an-M5-in-the-shop > I Always Forget My Account Info 08/05/2015 at 13:37

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as a Ducati owner, this article outrages me with its lack of pictures of pasta rockets.

Peter Monshizadeh > Breukdance 08/05/2015 at 13:38

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Absolutely. If no records are present and the mileage is past the recommended valve interval, you have to assume the worst.

Peter Monshizadeh > RustyToolbox 08/05/2015 at 13:40

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Excellent! Like you said, a bit of detective work can be very revealing of the bike's history.

BAM2k > Known As E 08/05/2015 at 13:41

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Speedy pic brought me to this article before title. My 15 StripleR approves.

Peter Monshizadeh > BAM2k 08/05/2015 at 14:04

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Kinja'd. Oops.

You had fordboy357 at "meat tornado" > Peter Monshizadeh 08/05/2015 at 14:06

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Dat single sided swingarm tho...

I fucking adore VFRs.

Peter Monshizadeh > move-over-peasant-I-have-an-M5-in-the-shop 08/05/2015 at 14:06

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Never fear, the pasta’s here! Albeit, in pieces like normal.

You had fordboy357 at "meat tornado" > move-over-peasant-I-have-an-M5-in-the-shop 08/05/2015 at 14:06

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Those would be waaaay outside the allowed budgets though ;)

dreygata > move-over-peasant-I-have-an-M5-in-the-shop 08/05/2015 at 14:14

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They’ll also clean the carbs, but never empty out that 2 year old gas in their tank, completely negating the cleaning process. A full fuel system drain along with a carb clean is what’s needed.

dreygata > Peter Monshizadeh 08/05/2015 at 14:14

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Crap... that reminds me. I have half my brake light out. Got any recommendations for a drop in LED? I want mine to be brighter.

Peter Monshizadeh > dreygata 08/05/2015 at 14:19

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Sorry I don't :( I've never attempted it myself!

.jdb. > Fat Val Kilmer 08/05/2015 at 14:19

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Me: “Huh. I didn’t think that bike electrics were all that complicated, I mean, there’s not much to the-
-oh. Literally. Yeah. Good point.”

Joel > Peter Monshizadeh 08/05/2015 at 14:21

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Do NOT use DI (de-ionized) water. Use distilled water. DI water will strip the metal from the inside of your engine outwards as it takes the ions from the metal to replace the ones that were removed from the water.

I found this out the hard way one Fall. One of the water pump bolts was also the drain bolt. I was working in a science lab that had access to DI water and thought this would be better than Distilled water. For Spring, I tossed in some DI water. Fall comes around and that drain bolt has and awesome looking head on it. Pull it out and most of the bolt has been eaten away from where it was in contact with the water, and then the threaded part was fine. I was surprised the bolt didn’t snap off with how much was taken off of it.

GrannyShifter (don't judge my Hofmeister kink) > Jeep until it MHz 08/05/2015 at 14:28

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I installed a new chain on my Triumph when I rebuilt it 10,000miles ago, but I misplaced my special Triumph chain tensioning tool. I found the tool a few weeks ago, and on a gorgeous day before a short ride, I decided to tighten my sagging chain. I read the maintenance guide, measured the slack play, and tightened it to spec. But it still looked like it had a lot of slop. So I tightened the tensioner another couple of degrees before locking everything down. The chain was tighter, but still had some play.

2 days later, I was on the return leg of my commute, which is 60 miles of rural highway with a 70 MPH speed limit. About 10 miles from home, the chain let go. I heard a loud crack, and the bike started gradually slowing. I didn’t know what the noise was, but I could rev the engine freely and shift gears smoothly, but continued to slow. Fortunately, I was right next to a downhill off ramp. I coasted down, and pulled off on to the sidewalk. That’s when I saw that my chain had left the bike, destroying the sprocket cover, chain guard (Ha!), and my tail fairing (pictured) in the process.

I accept my punishment from the motorcycle gods for not paying attention, rushing through maintenance, and not heeding the holy words of wisdom printed in the maintenance guide.

Peter Monshizadeh > Joel 08/05/2015 at 14:28

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Thanks for the clarification - I will make an edit. Although I have used DI in the past with great results, I was not aware of this distinct issue.

Rick Brasche > Peter Monshizadeh 08/05/2015 at 14:29

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gonna add another one that made a huge difference: fork oil. Suddenly that sticky “old” suspension doesn’t feel frightening anymore. Also, brake fluid decomposes (hydrophilic) and that “crappy” brake feel may be less about the “old technology” than simple wear. As well as another vote for chain and sprocket set. Unlike a car, a motorcycle uses it’s chain, rear and engine sprockets as wear items. Depending on power level, 5-10K and it’s time for new chain and cogs.

ThatGuyWhoBuysUnreliableCrap > Peter Monshizadeh 08/05/2015 at 14:35

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Mirrors mirrors mirrors. I’ve always been good with them, but i know a few people who go without them. About two days ago, my RC51 fell over... literally a friend leaned on it, no scratches but snapped off my left mirror. Riding without one while my new one is on order just feels dangerous and i don’t feel comfortable.

Blaquer > GrannyShifter (don't judge my Hofmeister kink) 08/05/2015 at 14:37

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Good thing your leg was shielded- I’ve heard some nasty things about what a snapped chain can do if it breaks in just the wrong place.

move-over-peasant-I-have-an-M5-in-the-shop > You had fordboy357 at "meat tornado" 08/05/2015 at 14:43

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Hey, you can pick up a nearly decade-old Sport Classic 1000 that's depreciated all of $1000 or so since it came out (thanks in large part to Chris Pine).

Zilch > Peter Monshizadeh 08/05/2015 at 15:00

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More Naked pasta rocket! Moaar!

Algimantas > Peter Monshizadeh 08/05/2015 at 15:01

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Actually it’s mostly the corrosion resistance that degrades with aging coolant. And I’d obviously put brake fluid in front of coolant, maybe even engine oil too.

Fat Val Kilmer > dreygata 08/05/2015 at 15:07

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1st off, what kind of motorcycle do you have? Older than 1975 or newer? If you have an older model (that’s a 6V system) it can be tougher than a simple drop in LED.

In most cases, you’re actually better off buying a regular bulb vs an LED as most pre-2000 lens designs don’t really work to well with directional LED’s

Iamopenlyjudgingyou > Peter Monshizadeh 08/05/2015 at 15:16

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I have a ZX-11 that has been sitting in my garage collecting dust for a few years now. Its been off the road since 2009 but I did “restore” it in 2012. I took it out for a quick spin around the block. Tires at that point were 5-6 years old.

Holy crap the rear would spin under any kind of serious load.

At this point, the tires still look like they are good condition. No visible rot. Plenty of tread. Barely any wear at all. Unfortunately age has turned them into stone. If I ever get around to selling it or ever put it back on the road again the first order of business would be to chuck the tires.

dreygata > Fat Val Kilmer 08/05/2015 at 15:20

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2006 Honda 599
I thought you could get red LEDs that just point everywhere. I didn’t know if anyone here had recommendations before I just gambled on a site.

Fat Val Kilmer > dreygata 08/05/2015 at 15:23

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Oh you should be fine then to drop-in one. Is there an enthusiast forum you’re a part of? I think those are known as the Honda Hornet in other countries.

Monsterajr > Peter Monshizadeh 08/05/2015 at 15:28

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Great tips for the truly DIY’r. However things like tires and the chain get pricey. That super cheap bike might not be worth buying if you have to throw 1000 in tires, chain and non maintenance items right away. I’d assume 2-500 right off the bat for a used bike purchase. I’ve been trolling Craigslist for a decent BMW RS1200s and a high mileage but up to date on service tires and such would trump a cheaper, lower mileage but neglected bike and the cost difference of the two may not equal the purchase plus repair of the cheaper of the two.

Peter Monshizadeh > Monsterajr 08/05/2015 at 15:36

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That is an excellent point, and one that usually isn't taken into account when the rose-colored glasses are in full effect while checking out a potential purchase. Sometimes the cheapest deal isn't the best deal.

Titanius Anglesmith > Peter Monshizadeh 08/05/2015 at 15:52

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I recently bought a cheap used bike. Thing ended up needing about $1000 of work (a lot of that was tires and sprockets), but it rides SO much better and I feel way more confident, especially because of the new tires.

Also word of advice, make sure you know what’s up with your sprockets. The previous owner on mine put on aftermarket aluminum sprockets, which caused two problems with the bike when I got it. First, they had a different gear ratio than OEM, which caused the speedometer to be wrong (you can fix the speedo if you want the different gearing but it isn’t cheap). Also the aluminum sprockets get sharp when they wear and once they are sharp, they can shear right through the chain.

jminer > Peter Monshizadeh 08/05/2015 at 16:09

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Have the batter load tested and replace if necessary. Being stranded is no fun and even if your bike has a kickstart it still needs battery voltage to fire (unless it’s very old with a magneto instead of a stator).

Lynza > Monsterajr 08/05/2015 at 16:10

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Excellent points! I’d also say that (from personal experience) finding out how much parts cost for the bike you’re looking at before you buy it is a good idea. If you’re not doing all of your own wrenching, how much is an oil change? How much do brake pads cost? What size tires do you need, and are they readily available? If a gasket/o-ring/seal needs replacing, can you find one locally or order one?

I’m in the process of beginning a restoration of an old (‘81) Honda, so I’m learning all this stuff firsthand.

Joneez > Peter Monshizadeh 08/05/2015 at 17:40

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On the subject of chains, they should be lubed every 200-300 miles (Maxima’s Chain Guard has never let me down.) It’s easiest to spray the lube on top of the bottom run so the centrifugal force works the lube through the chain. Harbor Freight has a great $20 roller stand for bikes without center stands.

Also, when replacing the chain always replace the sprockets or it will prematurely wear the new chain.

hoonhawk > Peter Monshizadeh 08/05/2015 at 18:15

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In Iowa everyone lists their used bike for $2k above book. Not many deals to be had.

Peter Monshizadeh > hoonhawk 08/05/2015 at 18:29

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That’s unfortunate - although I have picked up a couple of good deals in Iowa before. Good deals do go quick though.

Peter Monshizadeh > Joneez 08/05/2015 at 18:30

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Great tip! Thanks for sharing!

Peter Monshizadeh > jminer 08/05/2015 at 18:32

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I have been caught out before due to a bad rectifier/regulator on a Honda (which seems to be a common issue?). Anyway, yes, definitely check your charging system.

Monsterajr > Peter Monshizadeh 08/05/2015 at 19:27

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Thanks!, I’m actually more afraid of super low miles than the super hi miles for those reasons. I’m also weary of “just needs carbs cleaned”. I saw what I thought might be an interesting Kawasaki for sale needing carbs cleaned and then saw what was involved via youtube vid and I said fuggetaboutit, don’t want to be practically taking the whole bike apart.

Monsterajr > Lynza 08/05/2015 at 19:30

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Thanks!, I’ve done that with almost every bike that I troll through on craigslist. Mostly the work would be done by me. I’ve even taken my wheels off and brought them to a bike shop to have the tires replaced just to save the labor cost.

Good luck with the bike resto!

dreygata > Fat Val Kilmer 08/05/2015 at 20:17

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Yeah I’m part of the hornet’s nest and the 599 forum. I’ll search around on those but I think most end up changing out the tail light assy entirely, which I don’t want to do

Coalman > Joel 08/05/2015 at 21:46

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Somewhat related, but is there any info to using waterless coolant on a bike? Saw it on Jay Leno’s garage a while back and, while expensive, it seems to be superior to regular coolant w/water. Lifetime usage, higher boiling point, non-toxic, etc.

Dual-Overhead-Camo > Peter Monshizadeh 08/06/2015 at 05:20

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Gotta say I’m enjoying your articles more and more. I had a bad experience on the first motorcycle I ever road (laid it down, which I am to blame for) so I’ve sworn of bikes since. I really want to go out and buy a craigslist beginners bike for ~$500 and fix it up. This is inspiring me to possibly do just that, and get 2 wheels in my life.

Fat Val Kilmer > dreygata 08/06/2015 at 10:26

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Bummer man. Sorry I couldn’t help you out more.

dreygata > Fat Val Kilmer 08/06/2015 at 10:36

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Nah it’s totally okay. I didn’t know if there was a specific vender that people preferred. The website I have found is superbrightleds.com and just finding a drop in bulb, but there are many types and brightnesses so I am a bit overwhelmed, especially when bulbs cost $25 each or more.

Roadster Man > Peter Monshizadeh 08/06/2015 at 13:14

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For real, how hard is it to rebuild a set of cards on a UJM or maybe a newer Honda Nighthawk?

Right now, my ideal bike-owning scenario: tools, zero experience, and zero money. Is a carb rebuild a pipedream, an exercise in frustration, or something I could actually do?

P.S. I put a hole in my floorpan the first time I put my car on a jack, so I’m not suuuuper mechanically inclined.

Wes > Titanius Anglesmith 08/06/2015 at 13:33

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There’s nothing wrong with running aluminum sprockets. Steel will last longer, but it all goes back to the original point: maintenance. The chain wears the sprockets. If you never take care of your chain and sprockets as a whole, they will wear at a shocking rate.

Peter Monshizadeh > Roadster Man 08/06/2015 at 13:45

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Rebuilding and cleaning carburetors is not usually a difficult job. There aren't all that many parts compared to other mechanical systems of the bike. However, getting to the carburetors can be a pain at times. This usually involves removing the tank, fiddling with old and deteriorated fuel lines and clips, and then getting gasoline everywhere - if you’re not careful. Also, reinstalling the carbs can be a nightmare on older machines as the rubber boots that they seat into can become very hard. A hair dryer and some dish soap can go a long way in this regard. I believe you can do it!

Titanius Anglesmith > Wes 08/06/2015 at 14:24

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I’m sure there is nothing wrong with aluminum sprockets. My point was that I had no freaking idea that there was anything that needed to be done about them and if I hadn’t taken my bike to a knowledgeable mechanic something bad may have happened.

Wes > Titanius Anglesmith 08/07/2015 at 13:26

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No difference, though. You still have to maintain them, regardeless of steel or aluminum!

Ornery Duck Is Always The Answer > Peter Monshizadeh 08/21/2015 at 14:12

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The Street Triple is a wonderful bike in all the ways a modern sport bike should be. That said, there is something radically enjoyable about the Speed Triple, despite its weight, that isn’t easy to quantify or understand without having ridden one.

Ornery Duck Is Always The Answer > Ornery Duck Is Always The Answer 08/21/2015 at 18:58

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For reference, I miss her dearly.