Damn...

"K-Roll-PorscheTamer" (k-roll390) 03/28/2015 at 22:37 • Filed to: 944 Lyfe

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How the hell do I deal with this? It's only a small spot about 1/2-1 inch in length on the lower driver's side front fender just behind the wheel.

I don't know how bad the corrosion is, but apparently the proper way is to sand the spot down(I refuse to sand that entire surrounding area, prime it and touch it up. Anyone have any insight or advice? I was going to have a shop do a more professional job detailing my car in a week or two because I have ZERO skill in properly detailing a car, I wonder if I'd be better of letting them handle it if they can?

I have to keep my original paint alive dammit!! -_-

2BWise > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/28/2015 at 22:57

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I had rust on that spot and the base of the rear quarter that I never took care of. It ended up spreading really bad. The biggest downside is the textured lower portion of the rocker but my suggestion is take care of it now before it can get worse. One option would be to replace the whole fender if you can find a cheap donor.

DrJohannVegas > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/28/2015 at 22:58

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You have to remove the corrosion before you put anything over it. That means sanding. If you don't feather the edges (sand a bit beyond where the rust is), you'll have hard paint lines and a new place for oxidation to start again after you "repair" it. For a Michigan car, you are extremely lucky, and if you spend a little to fix it now, you'll avoid much bigger bills later.

K-Roll-PorscheTamer > DrJohannVegas 03/28/2015 at 23:01

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Sand a bit beyond the rust?

K-Roll-PorscheTamer > 2BWise 03/28/2015 at 23:02

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I don't think I wanna replace a fender, it won't be original anymore and I don't even know where to find one anyways. There aren't any wrecked 944s here, only like 3 924s.

Jordan and the Slowrunner, Boomer Intensifies > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/28/2015 at 23:04

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Sand the area around the rust.

K-Roll-PorscheTamer > Jordan and the Slowrunner, Boomer Intensifies 03/28/2015 at 23:05

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But what about the paint?? :(

415s30 W123TSXWaggoIIIIIIo ( •_•))°) > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/28/2015 at 23:07

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I use a cordless dremel to get off surface rust and then I treat it. You don;t have to go outside of it too much unless its hollow, I have a sharp bit and I then spray self etching primer on it and paint to match, masking it of course, put blue tape on and cut out the spot carefully with an exacto. Down low its not a big issue. My Z had several little spots. Out of sight I put Por-15 on. I did a decent job painting the lower area on my front fender because it curves under the car and is shadowed anyway, you can't see it.

415s30 W123TSXWaggoIIIIIIo ( •_•))°) > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/28/2015 at 23:09

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I have the same issue, I want the original fender so I fixed it. I want to keep the original paint, I think I need a specialist at some point to really make it better without ruining it.

K-Roll-PorscheTamer > 415s30 W123TSXWaggoIIIIIIo ( •_•))°) 03/28/2015 at 23:13

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I do have a dremel. Can I just treat the spot where it's visible, or do I really have to do the surrounding area? I don't even have a steady enough hand to paint for crap. God is this more frustrating for me than I thought.

K-Roll-PorscheTamer > 415s30 W123TSXWaggoIIIIIIo ( •_•))°) 03/28/2015 at 23:14

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Maybe I should just take it to a specialist and save myself some grief.

415s30 W123TSXWaggoIIIIIIo ( •_•))°) > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/28/2015 at 23:21

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If the rust isn't past the edge of the paint I would just go along the edge and knock it a little making sure its good metal there. I then get the blue 3M tape and stick it over the whole area, then cut out the part to paint and hit it with the primer, sand a bit and clean it with the spray and then give it some color in thin coats. I used the color match for my datsun and I actually feathered it in a bit off the sides because I had a dog leg welded it, it was bigger. For yours I would try to just treat the area affected to keep it rust free for now. Its so small you won't really notice it too much. I like cars with scars. This dog leg below was a big piece we put in, but with the right paint and some feathering it actually doesn't catch your eye in person, dark down low.

Jordan and the Slowrunner, Boomer Intensifies > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/28/2015 at 23:33

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Find the correct color and blend it in as much as possible, or if you at least do most of the work, a body shop probably wouldn't charge too much to blend it.

Sam > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/29/2015 at 00:00

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Odds are, a detailing shop won't do body work. A body shop will, however.

K-Roll-PorscheTamer > Sam 03/29/2015 at 00:04

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Great. Two places I have to go then, and I've only got the money for one, and know damn well I'll fuck up if I try to fix this myself..and I also can't buff, polish or detail for crap. I really am SOL for this aren't I.

The Magic Rev Matching 4Runner > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/29/2015 at 01:58

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Its small enough, why not at least try this one yourself? Not like it'll total the car if there is a half inch blemish in the fender.

E. Julius > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/29/2015 at 04:59

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Honestly when you buy a car you care about (especially a used Porsche) you sort of have to expect that it will require either money or doing the work yourself to keep it in top condition. Since I'm assuming you don't want to let it fall apart in your garage, you've either got to make more money or learn how to do more stuff. If you're unwilling to do that then it appears you bought the wrong car. The good is news is that it's not the end of the world.

Detailing really isn't that hard, and it sounds like this repair wouldn't be too difficult either (although I have no experience with such things). If you're really worried about messing up the car, my idea would be to take it to a body shop to get this rust repaired, then practice detailing on your other car. When the work is done on the 944 you'll be a detailing master and you can do it yourself.

twochevrons > K-Roll-PorscheTamer 03/29/2015 at 11:33

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If you want to do it properly, you're going to have to sand past the edge of the corrosion. My 850R had a couple of spots like that on the wheel arches when I got it, and the corrosion had gone under the paint maybe ¼" around the visible rust spot.

Sand the rust off, going back a bit past the edges of the paint until you hit clean metal under the paint, hit it with some rust killer, then prime and paint. The spots that I did on my 850R don't look all that hot, but they definitely look better than rust, and you can't spot them unless you look closely. If it's the bottom of the fender, and not somewhere that immediately draws the eye, I, for one, wouldn't worry about doing a perfect job at it, but if you're willing to put in the time or money to do it right, I'm sure a near-invisible repair is possible.

The most important thing is to protect the bare metal. Even if you can't do a perfect repair now, it's absolutely vital to nip the problem in the bud before it spreads. You can always sand the repair back and repaint it later, but if you do nothing now, then you'll just have a much bigger repair to tackle later. That was my philosophy when I tackled the rust spots on the Volvo: sure, they're far from perfect repairs, but I wanted to get that bare metal covered up as soon as possible. Now that I have a bit more time on my hands and have had a bit of practice with painting, I'm considering sanding them back and giving it another go.