The Truth About Motor Oil! Is Synthetic Worth It?

"Bozi Tatarevic" (hoonable) 02/25/2015 at 09:15 • Filed to: None

14

100

There are many stories and opinions on what oil is best and how it affects your engine. One of the most common discussions is whether synthetic oil will give you the best benefit for your money. There are many myths about motor oil and engine longevity and I will try to break them down using real world data.

The Manufacturing Process and The Environment

We’ll start off from how the oil is created and discuss the environmental impact. One of the most common myths is that synthetic oil is better for the environment because it is not derived from petroleum. This is simply not true as the chemicals used to form synthetic oil are just as harmful as the petroleum products used to create conventional oil. The only way to bring an environmental benefit from synthetic oil is to extend the oil change interval so less oil changes are performed therefore less oil gets dumped every year. This should work in theory but is not always the case, especially with old school gearheads.

The Oil Change Interval

The oil change interval or OCI is the recommended mileage interval between oil changes. There is a large debate on when you should change your oil and the classic consensus has always been that it should be done every 3 months or 3000 miles. This is the main point of contention when discussing the cost and environmental benefits of synthetic oil. In my area, the current specials show 5 quarts of conventional at $13 5 quarts of full synthetic at $22. If your car takes exactly 5 quarts and you do a 3000 mile OCI then your cost per 1000 miles on the conventional is $4.33. In order to reach the same cost with the synthetic you would need to extend your OCI to 5080 miles.

Should You Switch

If you run conventional now and are thinking of switching but are afraid of the cost or extending your OCI, there is no need to worry. The 3000 mile oil change is quickly becoming outdated and with synthetics a 5000 miles OCI is no issue as some manufacturers that use synthetic factory fill go even up to 15000 miles. The 3000 mile oil change has now become a marketing tactic for lube shops and service stations. You can safely run synthetic to 5000 miles in most cars and get all of the benefits at the same cost.

The Outliers

There is a small subset of cars where a 3000 mile oil change may still apply. This is a very small percentage of cars that drive under “severe” conditions. This may apply to vehicles that drive in dusty or dirty environment or in extreme temperatures that may affect the oil. There are also cars where there may be drawbacks from using synthetic that outweigh the benefits. These cases happen on older cars that may have some leaky seals that are manageable with conventional but start to leak more when switching to synthetic. This may be an issues but updated seal material has been released for many older engines and the issues can be fixed in most cases.

Switching Back and Forth

In the past, many manufacturers warned about switching back and worth or mixing the two types of oil saying it could be dangerous for engines. This is absolutely not true as even the manufacturers have started mixing the oil and creating the synthetic blend, which is a mixture of the two oils. I consider the blend the same as conventional and don’t buy the synthetic blend unless it is a screaming deal or the same price point as conventional as it is not regulated and could be 5% synthetic and 95% conventional.

The Recommendation

In the end, the first recommendation to follow is what your manufacturer suggests, especially if the vehicle already comes filled with synthetic oil. I am not a huge fan of any interval of 10000 miles or above as I have previously seen some GM 3.6L engines that liked to stretch chains with the longer OCI so I tend to keep a 5000 or 7500 mile interval for most of my vehicles. If you have always used conventional oil and don’t have any leaks at this time then by all means switch to a synthetic oil and feel free to extend your interval to 5000 miles.

!!! UNKNOWN CONTENT TYPE !!!

You can find Bozi at !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! , !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! , and !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! . You can also follow him on !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! and !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! .

thebigbossyboss > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 09:20

0

Bozi, what does extreme temps mean? We have had about 33 days below -5F this year. Since I leave for work early, I spent most of the month doing cold starts in very cold temps like -17F.

I am thinking in the winters up here, 3000 miles is best.

SnapUndersteer, Italian Spiderman > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 09:20

36

I easily get over 12k miles with synthetic with no ill effects to my motor.

Oil analysis proves it, as well sludging inspections. data never lies, people do.

BigBlock440 > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 09:23

6

The 3000 mile oil change is quickly becoming outdated

So quickly in fact, it's been outdated for 30 years!

Party-vi > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 09:23

15

BMW recommends 15,000 mile intervals in my E46, but I tend to stick to around 12,000. The Willys leaks so much the oil in it doesn't have time to get dirty, so that'll probably never get an oil change.

spanfucker retire bitch > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 09:24

0

It's definitely worth in the arena of ever tighter tolerances of modern engines; but even if it wasn't. I don't really have a choice. With my engine having a compression ratio of 13:1, Mazda won't even honor the drivetrain warranty if I use anything except synthetic.

Thankfully, synthetic really does make a difference and isn't just snake oil, so it's a moot point and I certainly have no intention or interest in using conventional oil in my car for some absurd reason.

PS9 > Party-vi 02/25/2015 at 09:27

3

Motor oil leaking from your willys = time to see a doctor. Or create your own brand of motor oil. One of those two.

SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 09:35

1

I should note that "severe" is not a small percentage of drivers. Most service manuals describe the "severe conditions" as stop-and-go traffic and weather over 70F. It's really down to the car/driver/conditions more than anything. I'm a fan of used oil analysis. My BRZ can go way over the recommended interval even though it's considered extreme while my MR2 drinks oil by the quart.

Nobi > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 09:37

1

I posed the question to a coworker one day "if they can make synthetic oil, why isn't there synthetic gasoline?" We asked a few of our oil distributors, and they told us that all "synthetic" oil is is more refined regular oil with more additives mixed into it. Also, on the newer Hondas, since synthetic is thinner, it gets by the tolerances in their engines easier which has fouled spark plugs, and caused them to have dealership techs replace the piston rings to curb the oil consumption. Their reasoning for switching to a 0W20 from 5W30 is that it allegedly nets them .2 of a MPG benefit. Unless you either A) have a high mileage engine, B) have oil consumption issues, C) do severe driving, just put in what the oil cap says.

Nobi > SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie 02/25/2015 at 09:38

0

I'd consider "severe" driving in Antarctica, Death Valley, or doing the 24 hours of LeMans.

SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie > Nobi 02/25/2015 at 10:06

0

Yep, me too. Tell that to the engineers who designed your car.

Will with a W8 races an E30 > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 10:09

3

Here is a giant stack of oil wear resistance data, which goes will beyond synthetic/conventional to all the different brands/weights.

http://oppositelock.jalopnik.com/oil-all-the-da…

Nobi > SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie 02/25/2015 at 10:13

2

As a dealership technician, there's lots of things I'd love to tell the engineers that designed not only my cars, but others as well.

SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie > Nobi 02/25/2015 at 10:15

0

Haha, yeah, I'm sure! If it's any consolation, sometimes they listen. Hyundai redesigned the front end of the Elantra in 2001(?) largely because their dealership mechanics couldn't get their big American hands into it to work on it.

bryan40oop > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 10:23

0

" The Truth About Motor Oil! Is Synthetic Worth It? "

Yes

I thought this was common knowledge by now.....

472CID > Party-vi 02/25/2015 at 10:40

5

By topping off a leaky engine you're replacing the oil, but all the bad stuff that collects in oil stays in the engine.

Party-vi > 472CID 02/25/2015 at 10:42

6

(I know. I was kidding).

With-a-G is back to not having anything written after his username > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 11:05

0

You're paying roughly $100/1000 mi for gas anyway. Even with the totally unnecessary 3000 mile OCI, $4/1000 mi premium is not much.

SnapUndersteer, Italian Spiderman > spanfucker retire bitch 02/25/2015 at 11:58

0

direct injection and high compression go hand in hand

spanfucker retire bitch > SnapUndersteer, Italian Spiderman 02/25/2015 at 12:10

0

I didn't say they didn't.

davedave1111 > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 13:15

2

" the classic consensus has always been that it should be done every 3 months or 3000 miles"

Only really in the US, oddly enough. Nowhere else has used oil change intervals of less than double or treble that, at least in the last few decades.

Changing the oil at the annual service has been the norm in most places, except on cars that do no miles where it might well be left for two years. These days, unless a car's doing 15k miles a year or so, it's more likely to be a biennial oil change.

Of course there's always some older American who turns up going 'that'll damage your engine froofroofrawarrgh!', but in fact it's been empirically proven to work just fine by doing it to millions of cars which have not died as a result.

davedave1111 > SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie 02/25/2015 at 13:16

0

You seem to be using a different - technical - meaning of 'severe'.

davedave1111 > thebigbossyboss 02/25/2015 at 13:18

1

You might be right that those temps count as severe, but even if severe weather cuts the lifespan of your oil, it doesn't come close to cutting it to 3k miles. You might want to think about replacing your oil annually instead of only every 18 months to two years, that's all. 3k miles is just a scam to sell oil and oil changes, unless you're driving in a desert or some such.

NaturallyAspirated > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 13:22

0

I was pleasantly surprised to see that the owner's manual for my '98 Subaru Legacy calls for 7,500 mile oil changes with non-synthetic. Recommended viscosity is 5W30 if ambient goes below 0F, or 10W30 if ambient goes above 100F. Or anything up to 20W50 for "severe" duty like towing a trailer in the Mojave desert.

I normally like to run synthetic oil in my cars, but since the Subaru really doesn't seem to care as long as it's slippery, I've been running Chevron Supreme 10W30 non-synthetic.

Lumpy44, Proprietor Of Fine Gif > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 13:23

0

I have used both in my truck and synthetic seems to burn less. Not by much, either way they come out black!

julienjj > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 13:24

2

Use group V synthetics.

Always adjust the oil chance interval according to a used oil analysis.

/Thread :D

bmc > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 13:34

0

It is dangerous to put full synthetic in a used car that used conventional oil, as the synthetic will loosen up any deposits ,that can be then lodged in smaller parts of engine, I always flush or run a syn blend for 3-5 k, then go to Syn and change oil 7-10k, but the higher the mileage the engine has you have to check after 2-3k after oil change an top off every 1k until changed again, I have drove over 1 .25 mil and never had engine failure and keep cars/trucks till 200-300k, with no problems.

C Mac > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 13:40

0

That's a no brainer. I have an older vehicle, it's $30 for 3,000 or $50 for 5,000. I prefer the later since I have it done by my mechanic. Todays cars go so much longer intervals.

JohnyQ > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 13:40

0

wow he had to ruin this article by saying go by the manufacture, all these articles posting the same stuff over and over all to say follow the manufactures specifications, so you will just listen to whatever you are told without finding the truth, might as well say change every 3000 miles. What people should be doing is checking their oil level, oil filter, and look for any parts in the oil, if you match a properly labeled 15,000 mile synthetic oil with a good filter and a clean engine and follow the oil filter change routine, and don't drive like a nascar driver 15,000 miles should be ok as long as you routinely check your car like you are suppose too. People use too much oil just because they don't bother to check themselves, polluting the world with oil changes that aren't needed sometimes.

Gary Yogurt > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 13:41

7

There is not one topic labored over more in the automotive world than oil.

Any answer you want is out there. If you think it's possible that a tablespoon of spermaceti melted down and sent through your Mahle filter is the best thing for your engine, good news, there's some damned fool who has argued about it for fifteen pages on a BMW forum.

W.C.Winger > BigBlock440 02/25/2015 at 13:43

0

'88 Honda Prelude Si-4WS with routine 7,500 mi Valvoline dino oil changes (per manufacturer recommendations) ... was driven 50+ miles/day ... went 187,000 miles in 8 years before trade-in and never used a pint of oil between oil changes. And it came out of the crankcase clean. This was in the changeable-weather northeast... heat/humidity/snow and freezing temps. Changing oil more frequently is a waste of money and resources.

QualityHawk > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 13:49

0

My experience managing several thousand pieces of rolling stock, including hundreds of automobiles and pick-ups, and being the individual who began statistical analysis of oil samples.... In todays autos, a person can easily run 7500 miles on regular oil... If 80% are highway miles... And a minimum of 10,000 while running a full syn.

Here is the issue... As contaminants accumulate within regular oil, the oil is able to "carry" and suspend these "up to a point" and from that point, degradation on the mapped scale, becomes a "hockey stick"... in other words, regular oil degrades "DRAMATICALLY" toward the end, and this end is determined by driving habits.

On the other hand... synthetic oils ability to carry contaminates and "oxidize" is linear across the life scale, making it FAR more forgiving when extending the range of the oil service interval.

This information comes from tens of thousands of data points and the numbers given are very conservative.

SnapUndersteer, Italian Spiderman > spanfucker retire bitch 02/25/2015 at 13:49

1

some say a cucumber tastes better pickled

btc909 > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 13:50

0

If your 2014 Subaru burns a quart of oil every 3000 miles how often do you think you should change the oil?

QualityHawk > 472CID 02/25/2015 at 13:51

2

Actually the oil that leaks, does take contaminates with it... the problem is the filter... at some point, it will no longer protect the engine due to it's inability to safeguard and filter the oil of oxidized (primarily) oil particulates.

mprsox > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 13:58

0

As an engineer and auto expert, you forgot two critical points! One, synthetic does not break down at higher or overtemp situations, so it is safer for the life of your car. Two - synthetic oils have lower friction characteristics which can lead to a slight mileage and power increase. Possibly three - synthetics may have other friction modifiers which chemically protect the metal parts better. If your OCI is longer, synthetics win hands down.

BigBlock440 > JohnyQ 02/25/2015 at 13:58

0

I don't know of any manufacturers that recommend a 3000 mile interval for normal driving. A lot recommend as high a 7500 on conventional, so I'm not sure what your issue is.

King43 > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 14:00

0

I use a Group IV synthetic in all of my vehicles. I like the extended drain intervals; my Nissan has a change interval of 3750/7500 (severe/normal) and with my preferred brand of Group IV oil I change it every 15,000 (lots of highway driving). The dealership did a free oil change one day (unbeknownst to me) using a comparable weight conventional oil. Idled like my father-in-law's old diesel tractor and revved anemically. My wife asked what was wrong with her car; went home, changed the oil to my preferred and the engine went back to smooth and revved like we were used to. Motor oil, to me, is a preference/choice/cost versus protection decision once the correct weight is used.

TommyGunDam > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 14:00

0

The primary reason for changing engine oil aside from it getting dirty is because of thermal breakdown. Oil oxidizes and with high temps and pressures, it adds to the process (think cooking food in a pressure cooker). Synthetics are a purer blend and don't oxidize as fast as natural oil. This is why you can go longer OCIs with the syns. With that said, the manufacturer's rec on OCI is probably based on engine temp and pressures...they have a lot of smart people to figure this stuff out on paper before even starting up the CNC mill.

Tohru > Party-vi 02/25/2015 at 14:07

2

I had a Bronco that thanks to a bad rear main seal leaked 15qts of oil in 9 months.

AudiTT > Party-vi 02/25/2015 at 14:10

1

I have a 2001 Audi TT 1.8 liter 225 HP engine with a turbo charger. I always change my oil every 3,000 miles when the old oil comes out it's as black as coal. The synthetic oil system not only lubricates the engine but it's also used to cool the extremely hot turbo charger. I would never ever suggest going 5,000 to 7,500 miles between oil changes.

Party-vi > AudiTT 02/25/2015 at 14:13

1

True, but my engine doesn't have forced induction so I'm not usually worried about that.

Party-vi > Tohru 02/25/2015 at 14:14

3

I think that's my issue - I need to replace the rear main seal and probably redo my remote oil filter mount kit.

Tohru > SnapUndersteer, Italian Spiderman 02/25/2015 at 14:15

3

But most question your intentions when you go through the Walmart checkout with a cucumber and a box of condoms.

thebigbossyboss > davedave1111 02/25/2015 at 14:17

0

I checked the colour of my oil recently...it was pretty black. I think I will up the intervals, but I had a misfire in cylinder 4 for some while, so I'd just feel better getting it done this time around.

Zoom > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 14:20

0

How much should I trust the lifespan indicator in my car? I always have and have never had an issue, but I wonder how accurate it is?

Dutchman61 > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 14:20

4

I have been involved with lube oils for 30 years as an engineer and actually know several of the top experts in the industry. There are a couple of errors above that should be brought up. First, synthetic lube oil is made from oil. Oil used to be made by separating it from the rest of the crude and then cleaning it up and adding cleaners etc. Lube oil consists of carbon chains of specific types. When Mobil first introduced Mobil 1, they made it using catalytic units that took the standard oil carbon chains and joined them together to form super long chains. Ironically, the longer chains are less vulnerable to heat and flow at much lower temperatures.

Second, when oil operates as a lube, the carbon chains breakdown. that is why is the importance of the 3000 mile change. However, synthetics breakdown the same way but they start as much longer chains. That is why you get much longer life from synthetics. the biggest problem with long service is actually not the breakdown, but the accumulation of water in the oil. 15,000 miles is realistic if you drive a lot and keep a hot engine. If you drive periodically or drive all urban, then 7500 or 9000 miles is a better interval.

The improved value of synthetics is found when you rebuild an engine. The wear and tear is radically different in an engine which used synthetics from day one. The biggest reason is the oil flows far better cold than conventional which means at startup the oil gets to the bearings far faster and protects a lot better. Cold startups can cause 60-80% of engine wear so it matters.

cc > AudiTT 02/25/2015 at 14:21

0

My Mercury Verado outboard has a supercharger, it uses 25w-50 synthetic oil that gets changed every 100 hrs. the oil comes out black as coal too.

Motorcity Madness > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 14:22

1

I believe in the old rule, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. I do and always will change my oil at 3,000 miles, why, because of all the combustion contaminates that are absorbed by the oil via the crank case, some call it blow by, all the exhaust fumes don't exit the exhaust system, that's real data. Even when I change the oil in my '06 Grand Prix, it is dark and dirty, if it was viewed under a microscope, it would look like sand or grit, just on the micro level. It's worth the effort and your engine will thank you over time. I also only use regular motor oil, why pay more if I change at 3,000. I have a '96 Camaro, always used regular oil, it now has 257,000 miles, no leaks, just smooth running. My choice has always been Penzoil, the proof is in the pudding. Take my advice, you won't regret it !!

thunder1979 > davedave1111 02/25/2015 at 14:24

0

Interesting! My dad was telling me in England back in the 70's, they never recommended more than twice yearly oil changes. He'd never heard of a 3 month/3K mile oil change until we moved to the U.S.

Joelopp > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 14:28

0

Just another rip off fad.

Shiftright > AudiTT 02/25/2015 at 14:31

4

From what I've read the color of used oil is no longer indicative of its condition. The various detergents and additives react to heat and other factors very quickly.

Fl Brew > Party-vi 02/25/2015 at 14:37

1

Try synthetic , It stopped the leaking on my daughters old Nissan (rear seal)

jsemerica > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 14:37

0

And you can indeed use synthetic in rotaries!

tpetty > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 14:39

0

Yet another worthless article, no data to provide and just common knowledge of what we already know...

BobAbilene > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 14:41

0

Beware of thin oils like 0W20, they can burn real fast because they are so thin to make gas mileage goals. Here is an interesting article.

https://autos.yahoo.com/news/consumer-…

Peptide > SnapUndersteer, Italian Spiderman 02/25/2015 at 14:43

10

Oil analysis is the ultimate test of any lubricant's performance claims. My experience is that "wear compound" (iron, antimony, copper, etc.) quantities are much lower under a synthetic lubricant regime than when using a petroleum base-stock motor oil. There are several reasons, but the net outcome is that wear on high-shear items, such as cam lobes, is reduced significantly.

So while there is a direct financial benefit (longer service intervals), the indirect savings are even greater. Just use it...

Party-vi > Fl Brew 02/25/2015 at 14:46

1

LOL no way in hell am I dumping 7qt of synthetic into it! I need to fix it - a stopgap will unfortunately not work and just cost me more money. It only has 8k miles on it since the rebuild.

whoop93 > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 14:50

0

Many new cars (all GM cars) have an oil life monitor in the VIC (vehicle information center) that indicates when the vehicle needs an oil change. There are many variables other than mileage that affect oil life. Also, most "synthetic" motor oils are not synthetic. They are still petroleum based stock that's been ultra-refined, thereby meeting the criteria for being "synthetic." Due to pressure by the government to raise mpg ratings, many new vehicles are calling for very light viscosity oils (0w20). Because of this , many of these newer cars are consuming oil. As much as a quart every 1000-1200 miles. The car companies will deny this but, it is true. Always check your oil regularly. I totally disagree with "Bozi" about oils being the same. I would never blend my own oil. I would always use synthetic oil in a newer model vehicle with a roller cam. If I had an old car with a flat tappet camshaft, I would look for a high quality conventional oil with a higher level of zinc and phosphorus. "That's all I got to say about that."

1.21 JIGGA WATTS!!! > Nobi 02/25/2015 at 14:52

1

As an engineer in an unrelated field, please blame the bean counters as much as the engineers. Engineers do come up with bad/flawed designs, but bean counters will make us use the greater of two evils (which tends to be cheaper). I suspect that if cost wasn't as great of a concern, things would be easier to use/fix.

That, and sometimes you just have a terribly designed part, because that's the only way it can be designed to fit since you're working with a lot of other engineers to package a vehicle.

Fezzasus > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 14:53

0

Uh. So I work in oil. I work for a company that is responsible for the oil in 1/3 vehicles on the road. synthetic is a marketing term, and is most certainly derived from petroleum.

Nobi > 1.21 JIGGA WATTS!!! 02/25/2015 at 14:56

0

Touche.

Dru > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 15:02

0

But what if it takes you 6 months to travel 3,000 miles? Should one change at the 3 month mark, or 1,500 (+/-) on conventional?

SnapUndersteer, Italian Spiderman > Peptide 02/25/2015 at 15:10

1

very true. The cheapest I've found, while maintaining low levels of particles are Shell Rotella T6 and Pennzoil synth

Can't argue with a gallon for only 21 bucks and such high confirmed performance. The ROI is through the roof

rudyH > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 15:13

0

I don't think oil EVER needs to be changed! It's already like a gazillion years old! Who's kidding who?! Just a plot by Big Oil and engine bearing companies!

davesaddiction @ opposite-lock.com > Party-vi 02/25/2015 at 15:21

1

I stick to 7500-10000 on synthetic on my cars.

I think that it's telling that BMW no longer recommends 15k intervals on their new cars.

Party-vi > davesaddiction @ opposite-lock.com 02/25/2015 at 15:24

3

Telling that they fucked up on giving longer intervals on older cars, or telling that their newer engines suck? :3

davesaddiction @ opposite-lock.com > Party-vi 02/25/2015 at 15:29

0

Ha! The latter is a given, right?

I think 10-12k on synthetic is pretty safe (as backed up by oil analysis), but 15k seems like you're just asking for problems, especially since many owners will see the light at 15k and then drive it 3,000 more miles before they take it in.

kms1990 > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 15:45

1

i go 6k miles on synthetic and have no ill effects. car seems to idle smoother and run quieter (03 protege5 which has a loud engine as it is just not refined) and i noticed some mpg gain but this may just be coincidence and thats what i chalk it up to.

Jbarnes > AudiTT 02/25/2015 at 15:54

0

I have a 2011 F-150 with the 3.5 EcoBoost TT and I go 10,000 on my oil changes. I used royal purple from day 1 but recently switch to Pennzoil platinum and oil analysis has comeback every time that the oils viscosity, and lubricity are still sufficient to lubricate effectively. I have had no issues with my turbo's and it still produces the same power as it did when I dyno'd it at 5,000 miles.

Rick > Fl Brew 02/25/2015 at 15:55

0

I have just started using Royal Purple in my 2007 Mazda Miata MX5 touring retractable hardtop. It's the 2 liter engine. Prior to using the RP, I changed the synthetic every 5,ooo miles the car always ran the same. Now with the new oil, 5W30 Royal Purple Synthetic, the car's a pocket rocket. It performs better with this oil than with anything else I have used. This is not intended as a commercial, but I love this stuff and can highly recommend it. I race my car frequently. I will do as the suggest and change it at 20,000 miles.

Braking-Dad > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 15:58

0

And if your direct injection GM vehicle calls for DEXOS, get oil with DEXOS. There's a reason it's there.

Superfan99 > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 16:04

0

I thought the "leaky seals" thing had been debunked? The detergent quality of the synthetic oil simply removes varnish around the seals, and and if the seal has a breach the leak is exposed.

LONGRYDER > Party-vi 02/25/2015 at 16:22

0

Change filter every 5000 to 10000 mls, otherwise keep full,

MoparMap > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 16:24

0

Change intervals are hugely dependent on driving conditions, as stated in the article. It's not just dusty/dirty stuff, but engine operating conditions as well. Water vapor condenses in your engine when it cools off and can get in the oil. Getting the engine up to operating temp "burns" out the water and gets you back to (mostly) oil. Advice that's often given to people that are about to store cars for winter is to get them good and hot before putting them away as it sort of "cleans" out the oil before storing so there is less moisture to corrode stuff. I go 10k intervals on my Viper because it's 10.5 quarts of full synthetic (extra volume can also bump intervals) that pretty much always get to temp every time I start it and spends 80% of it's life cruising 1300 rpm down the highway in 6th. There's next to no load on the engine and it's happily humming away at operating temp.

Someone who has an in-town commute with tons of stop and go and short errands is much more likely to need more frequent changes as it will take a much harder toll on parts when they don't get up to full operating temperatures. I have long changes, but most of my miles are highway, so it's really not much wear and tear on the engine.

Jim > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 16:24

0

I had a hose break on a 89 buick limited. The idiot light did not come on. I was on the freeway in Ontario, Ca. and the engine got so hot it died. I replaced the hose and filled the engine with coolant and it fired right up. No engine damage. I was using Castrol Synthetic .I swear by synthetic oil. It offers superior protection.

BlueDevil777 > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 16:25

0

but is BMW synthetic even more with it?

LONGRYDER > AudiTT 02/25/2015 at 16:26

0

Try Delvac 1300 oil. It is designed for diesel engines with turbos and should run cooler. It is referred to as the Million mile oil.

Party-vi > LONGRYDER 02/25/2015 at 16:28

2

I'll change the rear main seal first since that's the issue ;)

HFV has no HFV. But somehow has 2 motorcycles > 472CID 02/25/2015 at 16:30

0

I learned that the hard way. I had an old Civic the burned a qt every 300 miles or so, So I topped it off every time I got gas, but i sorta forgot that I still needed to do oil changes. that did not go well.

Daniel MacCabe > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 16:34

0

I've had Audis and VWs for the last 20 years. Recommended interval has always been 10K - on dino-juice! I tend to use synthetic in turbocharged engines due to my belief that it resists thermal breakdown better than conventional oil. I'm not sure that's true, but if you happen to be driving a V6 Biturbo Audi... well, you're looking for any help you can get in the longevity department.

The 3K mile change, and even the 5K mile change is total bullshit and is reflected in the manufactures recommendations. It generates a phenomenal amount of pollution (waste oil) and makes hacks like Jiffy Lube rich. It does nothing to help your car.

KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs > AudiTT 02/25/2015 at 16:35

0

Did those have the oil heat exchanger that got put on the 2.7T? Those do make a big difference.

I've never seen oil temperatures spike unless doing 140+ on a roval (As observed at Daytona). Most road courses are pretty fine.

KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs > davesaddiction @ opposite-lock.com 02/25/2015 at 16:36

0

My Mini is indicating oil service about every 8000 miles. Go figure with BMW.

Daniel MacCabe > AudiTT 02/25/2015 at 16:38

1

Although I agree that the turbo needs good oil, I think analysis would show that the "dirty" oil you're throwing away every 3K miles still has a lot of life in it.

I daily drive a '69 911. The oil is black within a week of a change. It's still working just fine. This car needs oil about every 6 months - and you'd better believe I love it and always do the correct maintenance. (Honestly, she holds 12 quarts... she probably doesn't even need changed twice a year, but I'm careful with her.)

davedave1111 > thunder1979 02/25/2015 at 16:42

1

I'm not sure when the first multi-viscosity oils came along, but it may have been the seventies. Certainly, a few years before that people still had to change their oil for summer and winter anyway, so that would have been twice a year whether or not the oil was still good.

Michael Aguirre > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 16:43

0

Synthetics are the way t go, however just before your oil change is due, pick up a can of Sea foam injector cleaner or BG44. Put the injector cleaner in a 1/2 tank of gas and drive your vehicle at high RPM's. Why?, I put a can of Sea Foam Injector cleaner in a 1/2 0f tank of premium gas and I drive on the hwy from Pueblo, to Springs, approximately 45 miles difference and I pull up to a gas station close to where I am going to have my oil change. I leave my vehicle running and I fill up my vehicle full diluting what's left in my gas. I used enough of the injector cleaner to do its job. I pull up to the Jiffy Lube with my own synthetic oil and oil filter. The reason why I do this, at high rpm's the injector cleaner will clean your engine and rinse all of the deposits into your oil pan, so when they change your oil all of the nasty deposits will go with the old oil. I check my dip stick before I do this just to see the difference. My oil is clean and looks as if I just changed my oil, but after running it the way I explained how to change your oil, the oil is Jet Black from the deposits. So, when you change your oil, do these steps first and change your oil or a company do it for you. It well help your vehicle along with the oil changes rather you use conventional oil or synthetic oils. Peace!!

davedave1111 > thebigbossyboss 02/25/2015 at 16:48

0

I've flushed an engine before with a fill of cheap oil, which was immediately drained. That came out black. I think it's going to come out pretty black after you've fired up the engine once or twice even on a cleaner engine.

Hollis > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 16:49

0

Either I'm lucky or Mobile 1 isnt crap.

1999 S-10 4.3L 328,000 miles and counting.

HiMyNameIsJayAgain > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 16:50

0

Meh. I drive a Subaru and I'm not taking chances. 3000 miles or 3500 if I'm feeling lazy.

skinny > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 16:52

0

I have a 2005 toyota sienna with 202,000 miles. Use steictly mobil 1 since the first oil change. Change oil every 10K miles. Never any problems, engine runs great and still burns no oil between oil changes. I do the same with my 08 Acura TL with 90K miles.

greencow > AudiTT 02/25/2015 at 16:54

1

Oil color doesn't mean much. If you want to reassure yourself that changing synthetic every 3k miles is actually worth it or not, get an oil analysis done.

Blackstone

I run royal purple, used to change every 6k, blackstone test results confirmed I was changing to soon, and that the oil could be run out a few thousand more miles.

AdmiralAkbar > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 16:55

0

Synthetic isn't really worth it if you pay full price at the oil-changing place for it (it's usually double the regular price or more), but if you buy it whenever it goes on sale at a part store and bring your own (or do it yourself) then it's totally worth it.

superagent > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 16:59

0

I have always ran synthetic oil in my vehicles after about 10,000 miles. One of my vehicles has 225,000 miles on it, and the oil is still golden looking even with 3,000 - 5,000 miles on it. Wal Mart has the best prices.

McLarry > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 17:01

0

Both of my cars (Saab 9-3 2.0T and BWM 330xi (E46)) recommend long intervals (~15k miles), but I do it as often as I want to anyway - not quite every 3k but maybe every 5-7k. I've never had any formal analysis done on the oil, but I see no reason not to continue at this interval, even if it is overkill...it's not thatcostly (perhaps $100 for both cars) and doesn't exactly harm anything.

DanPadge > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 17:04

0

Great info! Would love a follow-up about "high mileage" oil. I've heard stories that all it is is oil with kerosene or something similar to make seals swell up, which is fine unless you stop using it

Mr MO > PS9 02/25/2015 at 17:06

0

Had one of those~Changed the filter once in awhile~But a constant oil input thing going on~Bought Re-Cycled Virgin oil~72 cents a Qt~ roughly about a Qt a hundred miles,or sitting in the driveway~all the same~Ah Good days~

Bdog > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 17:08

0

I go up to 12,000 miles on full synthetic with my 2000 Ford V10 van, including when I'm towing 15,000 pounds in hot weather in the mountains (which = long WOT pulls). I actually change it more frequently if I'm not towing, because that means more cold-starts between changes. If I know I'll be doing only in-town driving for a while, I'll switch back to conventional for a bit, since I go back to 5k intervals for that kind of driving cycle.

403,000 miles. So far so good.

Funktheduck > spanfucker retire bitch 02/25/2015 at 17:20

0

I don't know if they make 0w-20 in conventional

Super Nintendo Chalmers > SnapUndersteer, Italian Spiderman 02/25/2015 at 17:23

1

Who puts together the data though????

matt davidson > Bozi Tatarevic 02/25/2015 at 17:32

0

just because you can go 5000 miles or more without changing the oil doesn't mean it's good for the engine. I change synthetic at 3000 miles.

GRennie > AudiTT 02/25/2015 at 17:43

0

I use LiquiMoly in my Audis (1.8 and 2.0 turbos) and change the oil at 10,000 per Audi specs. My engines always go over 200,000 miles. The only engine issue I've ever had was a seized cam bearing on a 1.8T and I think that was an oil pump issue because there was no other discernible wear after 225,000 miles. My other cars (VW, Chrysler, Ford, Nissan, Mercury, etc) use Mobil1 with 10,000 mile intervals and I've never had one go less than 250,000 (including a Chrysler!!!). Other than 1 timing belt and the 1 cam bearing I have NEVER had an engine related failure and I have never owned a car less than 200,000 miles. In my 40+ years of driving my cars have logged almost 2,000,000 miles. 3,000 mile changes are marketing ploys for those who like to be told what to do.