Just finally got around to getting rebuild parts for the jag diff.

Kinja'd!!! "Ramblin Rover - The Vivisector of Solihull" (RamblinRover)
02/18/2015 at 20:16 • Filed to: None

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Stinking thing's been sitting around disassembled for weeks. Of course, now I actually have to get the driveshafts shortened - I should be able to shorten the control arms myself.

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DISCUSSION (5)


Kinja'd!!! BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > Ramblin Rover - The Vivisector of Solihull
02/19/2015 at 02:42

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I'm gearing up to do the same sort of thing soon :S I've got to change the propshaft flange on my powerlock with the one on my standard diff, but the input shaft itself is longer on my current one so I'm thinking I need to change the whole thing. If not then happy days, but I'm not holding out hope...

Any tips on taking it apart & putting it back together?


Kinja'd!!! Ramblin Rover - The Vivisector of Solihull > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires
02/19/2015 at 07:48

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I did a whole post on it (search "jaguar seals"), but your diffs are the more modern kind that aren't a 100% match, just similar. It also didn't cover getting the pinion completely apart, as that's a real nuisance. If the gear carrier is the same bolt pattern it might make sense to swap the ring gear to the power lock carrier and just adjust/shim the power lock carrier to the other case - a pain any way you slice it, really. The only immediate reason I can think of for a different drive yoke is the pinion difference, so that might be all - I'd try the simple flange swap before anything, of course.

One thing about the flange swap - it might affect pinion bearing preload, so watch out for that.


Kinja'd!!! BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > Ramblin Rover - The Vivisector of Solihull
02/19/2015 at 08:18

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I've read a bit about the preload, and I might have to take the diff apart to do that properly anyway. Apparently it needs to be done without a lot of the diff attached :S

The issues is that the input shaft for propshafts with a jurid coupling (like mine) have a locating pin on them which slots into the propshaft, whereas the input shaft on the powerlock doesn't. I'm currently wondering whether it would be easier to weld a bar onto the powerlock's input shaft or rebuild the diff...

Neither will be easy :S


Kinja'd!!! Ramblin Rover - The Vivisector of Solihull > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires
02/19/2015 at 08:40

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All this, wholly your fault for not messing about with the old style units. :p


Kinja'd!!! BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > Ramblin Rover - The Vivisector of Solihull
02/19/2015 at 08:52

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Agreed ;)